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Old 01-04-2015, 08:15 PM   #1
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Rod knock

So I just got a rod knock. Does that mean I have to rebuild the engine???
Or can I do something cheaper for now


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Old 01-04-2015, 11:09 PM   #2
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Heres what you should do: First try and figure out what rod it is and which bearing it is. If you have any hope at all that its the big end bearing, I would pull the pan and try to see what replacing the bearing does for the situation.


That is a pretty easy thing to do since you don't have to remove the engine and you barely have to remove any engine parts to get to it.


If its a wrist pin bearing, its up to you.


If it were my engine and it was something harder to replace than the mains, I would just throw some of that thick goo **** you see at auto parts stores in to help cushion whatevers knocking. It will make it quieter and preserve the banging parts for a tad longer. As a matter of fact, that's exactly what I just did with my car when I got a ton of blowby in the engine and then heard the timing chain tensioner start to kill the engine




Start saving for an expensive solution though.


I actually replaced my engine myself for the first time this week and it was actually quite enjoyable. I started on it sunday night, didn't work on it Monday at all, worked on it starting at 4 on Tuesday, worked on it all day Wednesday, worked on it half the day Thursday and had it running by 1 oclock on a carburetor conversion haha.


So I have a 1999 mustang GT, converted to run a manual trans from a 2000 mustang, an engine from a 2003 crown vic, a carburetor from a Monte Carlo, a JDM steering wheel, open exhaust manifolds, coolant hoses from a beer bong, and its unregistered. Perfect daily driver/commuter car for a 19 year old in college lmao
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Old 01-05-2015, 08:42 AM   #3
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Rod knock means the motor is on the way out. Any PI motor will work as a replacement and they are cheap and used in EVERYTHING from the late 90s till 2010.
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Old 01-05-2015, 08:54 AM   #4
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Yeah I have an engine from a 2003 crown vic in my car which is a 1999 mustang GT. The 1999 and 2000 mustang GTs actually were made in the Windsor plant as opposed to the ROmeo plant where all the other new edge PI stangs were made. That matters because it means the valve covers and the flywheel bolt pattern are different.


The Windsor engines had an 8 bolt flywheel, the Romeo ones only had 6. That's no big deal though, the windsors 8 bolt pattern is really close to the 6, except it has 2 extra holes that are drilled by it. I made my Windsor flywheel work on my romeo engine simply by drilling the holes out a little bigger. It has survived 2 burn outs and 20 miles of driving since I did that little "custom" work.


Scotty knows though for sure. Your engine is on the way out. If you have a rod knocking, everything else is about to break too as far as you know.


Its not that bad though compared to some cars. You can probably limp this thing along till you can easily buy a new engine and take a couple days to replace it. I got a 75k mile 4.6 PI for $400 delivered to my house, borrowed my buddies cherry picker, removed and replaced the engine in 4 days. It was my first crack at it too
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Old 01-05-2015, 09:32 AM   #5
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If he absolutely has to have it working for the short term, go get some 15w-40 Rotella and toss that in there and see if it quiets it down. Don't hold out much hope though.
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Old 01-05-2015, 10:27 AM   #6
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The hose connected to the valve cover popped off so I'm guessing that's the reason it happen


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---------- Post added at 04:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:26 PM ----------

And I don't know how long I was driving and racing with out it on


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Old 01-05-2015, 10:34 AM   #7
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Just take it super easy on the engine. Don't ever rev it out more than you need to in order to stay close to the speed limit and don't let it engine brake ever. THe engine could last you an entire year, or it could last you 3 more days. It depends on a lot of factors, but prepare for engine replacement is the main idea here. You will be so glad once you get it done trust me, I just did mine and I was dreading it, but now Im just proud of what I did.
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Old 01-05-2015, 10:50 AM   #8
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This guy helped me out SO much with this video series on how to do it.
Part 1


Part 2


It doesn't even require any special tools aside from a swivel for your socket and an engine hoist
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Old 01-05-2015, 11:45 AM   #9
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Yeah mustang motors are pretty straightforward. Hardest part is all the goddamn wires and hoses and little things that have to get unhooked. The motor and trans itself is only held in by the 2 motor mount studs up front and then the trans mount out back. Pulling it all as one unit is the way to go btw.
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Old 01-05-2015, 12:41 PM   #10
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Yeah I second what Scotty says. Definitely take them out as 1 unit. Its a lot easier. People that try to leave the trans in on these cars regret it and wind up having to drop the trans anyway
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Old 01-05-2015, 12:48 PM   #11
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Yep, I have 0 idea why anyone would pull just the motor and have to rig up a trans support and everything. Also if you are pulling the motor it makes it way easier to do the flywheel/clutch/trans re-install on the motor with it removed. Biggest thing is to buy a load leveler, lets you slide the whole assembly right in and out and let the mechanical stuff do all the work vs having to try to muscle it into place.
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Old 01-05-2015, 02:12 PM   #12
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I did mine without the load leveler and it wasn't the worst thing in the world, but there were those times where I definitely could have saved 20 minutes or so instead of adjusting chains and what not. Finally got the car running top notch on the carb today
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Old 01-05-2015, 02:28 PM   #13
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Last time I did a motor it literally took about 15-20 minutes from when we positioned the motor/trans over the bay until the mounts were seated and the trans crossmember was in place. Lower, spin leveler handle, push forward, lower, spin handle, push, lower, spin handle and now you are pretty much level. Then one person kind of guides the motor while the other one lowers the mount studs into the K slots, lower the rest of the way, jack up the tailshaft with a floor jack and put the crossmember bolts through the frame mounts. Taking it out is just as easy, just the unhooking of every damn thing like I said.
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Old 01-05-2015, 02:38 PM   #14
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Yeah all of the nuts and bolts type stuff is really really easy on these. Anybody with a little elbow grease would be able to pull the engine out. The one and only thing that is tricky is the wiring harness. Take thorough documentation whenever you unplug any wiring. Where it plugs into, where it came from, and etcetera. Otherwise you might miss something like the crank position sensor (car cant run without cps) or some ground somewhere that will piss off the PATS system. That is it though. Theres nothing else to really be concerned about. I just winged my first time and it went well. Only thing bad that happened during the project is when I spilled 2.5 quarts of dirty engine oil on my dads pristine garage floor. The rage from hime was intense. He threw my edelbrock 1406 about a quarter mile across the frozen tundra and kicked my tool box over lmao.
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Old 01-05-2015, 02:43 PM   #15
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Thank you guys


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Old 01-05-2015, 02:52 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 001Gt View Post
The hose connected to the valve cover popped off so I'm guessing that's the reason it happen


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---------- Post added at 04:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:26 PM ----------

And I don't know how long I was driving and racing with out it on


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Did oil leak out of that hose? I thought that was just a breather for air pressure, to be honest. Is there any evidence of oil coming out of that hole?
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Old 01-05-2015, 03:43 PM   #17
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These guys have given you great advice.


Just be sure it is a rod knock before anything.


Also do an oil change and check the oil and filter and see what is in there.


I also agree with some thicker oil to see if it will buy you some time if indeed it is a knock.
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Old 01-05-2015, 05:57 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Panther140 View Post
Did oil leak out of that hose? I thought that was just a breather for air pressure, to be honest. Is there any evidence of oil coming out of that hole?

Yeah there's oil all over the valve cover and that's where the Knock is coming from


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Old 01-06-2015, 09:31 PM   #19
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Old 01-07-2015, 12:14 PM   #20
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OH **** man! Take that valve cover off and give everything a once over. Maybe you can replace that and call it good for a little while longer!
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Old 01-07-2015, 03:23 PM   #21
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I have seen this before, in fact on another "Mustangforums" there's a thread called "2002 engine rebuild", he found two or three rollers laying inside the valve spring assembly after taking the valve cover off. What he found was a cracked cam journal retainer, aka cam bearing cap. there are pictures of what he found.

Don't know if this is your problem but there is a reason it spit the roller out.
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Old 01-07-2015, 03:25 PM   #22
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Would you have to take it to a machine shop to get the cam journal retainer fixed? Or is it something that you could replace with wrenches?


Ive never had one apart yet tbh but I have a long block I plan on tearing apart just for ****s and giggles. Would valves hitting the piston ever cause the roller to get broke off? I know that a low oil condition can cause the timing chain tensioner to go bad, which often equals pistons touching your valves
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Old 01-07-2015, 03:39 PM   #23
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Unfortunately the cam retainer is also the bearing for the cam, so if this is in fact his problem that cylinder head more than likely cannot be repaired and will need to be replaced.

I guess you could just replace the retainer and hope for the best but that's not what i would do.
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