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Old 01-15-2015, 10:12 PM   #1
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2002 mustang gt help? And opinions!!!

I have a 2002 mustang gt just hit 80,000 miles and it seems I'm getting bad detonation? As I'm taking off can't notice any in 1st but when I shift to 2nd and third It feels like tiny little "lags" nothing terrible but can tell I'm not getting the right power and its off . This also been happening for two days and on the way home from work check engine came on ! Can this be bad spark plugs? 2nd either tomorrow or Saturday I'm buying shock and struts please if you know any good product that you have used can you tell me price and how it drives now . Anything helps guys thanks

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Old 01-16-2015, 06:19 AM   #2
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first find out the code, that will probably give you your answer.
is it a manual? when are you shifting?
its possible that its a misfire and a bad coil.

after reading the code, let us know what it is. then it probably wouldnt hurt to change the plugs.
as for shock, on amazon, theres a kyb kit available, fronts, rears, and mounting kits. i got it really cheap but the price went up recently. still worth checking it out if you want oem style. otherwise i have no experience in any performance shocks.
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2002 GT 5sp. 16x,xxx miles
Steeda Exhaust, C&L plenum, BBK Throttle Body, Steeda Underdrive, Steeda short throw, unknown stage clutch. Rear main leak. Compressor seal leak. Steeda lower control arms. good tires.
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Old 01-16-2015, 06:45 PM   #3
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I went and got the code ran today and it said the spark plugs ? I got motor craft sp-493 also I failed to mention when I bought the car from owner he had upgraded plenum and throttle body with 24 cobra injectors with fuel rails . He took off plenum and throttle body but left the injector and rails on . Can this cause the mustang to run rich and spark plugs to go out? And as fr the struts and shocks have you ever bought product from rock auto ?

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Old 01-16-2015, 07:31 PM   #4
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24lb injectors i think need a tune. So i think rich? My buddy loves rock auto. I tend to use amazon myself. But rock auto is reliable.

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2002 GT 5sp. 16x,xxx miles
Steeda Exhaust, C&L plenum, BBK Throttle Body, Steeda Underdrive, Steeda short throw, unknown stage clutch. Rear main leak. Compressor seal leak. Steeda lower control arms. good tires.
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Old 01-16-2015, 07:41 PM   #5
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OK I rather just take them off and go back to stock . Is kyb shocks a good reliable brand ? When installing the plugs any tips or pointers to look out for thanks

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Old 01-16-2015, 09:28 PM   #6
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Kyb is good. Plugs dont bother with anything too fancy. u have ngk v power in mine. Standard motorcraft oem pkugs are best. No need for iridium in these cars. Torque em down to 11-13 ft lb if yiu can. Dont use dialectric grease on the plugs/boots. DO use antisieze on the threads. 7mm I believe for the coil bolts. Best tool is a 1/4" drive ratchet and a u-joint with deep well 7mm. If theres any fluid in the well, get something long like a flat head screwdriver and carefully stuff paper towel in there to absorb the fluid and pull out carefully. Take a look inside the cylinder just to get an idea how it looks in there. Check the spark plugs and take note if they wore out evenly or if some have more corrosion that others. Post pics if you want oppinions. Some of the rear coils are a pain to reach, removing the intake tube is a must. Should get by without removing throttle body, especially if stock. No need to remove fuel rail or anything else. Just have a u joint and 1/4" drive ratchet. And for the spark plugs, I like the magnetic sockets, makes it much easier.

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2002 GT 5sp. 16x,xxx miles
Steeda Exhaust, C&L plenum, BBK Throttle Body, Steeda Underdrive, Steeda short throw, unknown stage clutch. Rear main leak. Compressor seal leak. Steeda lower control arms. good tires.
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Old 01-16-2015, 10:56 PM   #7
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OK thanks pulling them out tomorrow morning will write if need thanks again

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Old 01-16-2015, 11:01 PM   #8
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The code said spark plugs... Lol

What code was it?
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Old 01-17-2015, 06:15 AM   #9
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Nah thinkin it said misifre and the employee probably reccomended spark plugs

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2002 GT 5sp. 16x,xxx miles
Steeda Exhaust, C&L plenum, BBK Throttle Body, Steeda Underdrive, Steeda short throw, unknown stage clutch. Rear main leak. Compressor seal leak. Steeda lower control arms. good tires.
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Old 01-17-2015, 05:33 PM   #10
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Well I just installed all new spark plugs started up my car no lagging when punching it like before and engine light came off ..... BUT when taking off passenger back spark plug my father snapped a hose and a bunch of violent came out !! When examining it it look like the plastic tube that the hose slid over snapped so it's in the hose and still some from where it connects to ?? Does anyone know what part this is or where I can buy it ??


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---------- Post added at 05:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:33 PM ----------

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Old 01-17-2015, 07:07 PM   #11
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You talkin about the passenger side, a plastic piece that connects a hose to the firewall? If the plastic part it connects to is broken, then sorry bud. Your out 200 bucks now. Its the intake manifold. I did the same thing. If your creative, you can patch it and make a connector for it and get it running in an emergency. But you dont wanna rely on that too much. Its old so the plastic is brittle. Get the ford racing Performance improved (PI) intake. Not the dorman. Also grab a felpro gasket set.

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2002 GT 5sp. 16x,xxx miles
Steeda Exhaust, C&L plenum, BBK Throttle Body, Steeda Underdrive, Steeda short throw, unknown stage clutch. Rear main leak. Compressor seal leak. Steeda lower control arms. good tires.
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Old 01-17-2015, 07:53 PM   #12
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Can you post a picture of what you broke?


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Old 01-17-2015, 09:43 PM   #13
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Yes that's exactly what broke its on the manifold !!! I was trying to see if there was someway to patch it that's a bad design in my opinion

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Old 01-17-2015, 09:46 PM   #14
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Meh, its also almost 14 years old. But like I said you can try to fit something in there, but under heat and pressure I wouldnt rely on it. I changed mine on my own in one morning. My engine sounded quieter after.

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2002 GT 5sp. 16x,xxx miles
Steeda Exhaust, C&L plenum, BBK Throttle Body, Steeda Underdrive, Steeda short throw, unknown stage clutch. Rear main leak. Compressor seal leak. Steeda lower control arms. good tires.
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Old 01-17-2015, 10:03 PM   #15
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Should I get the one from american muscle

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Old 01-18-2015, 07:57 PM   #16
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Well I tried patching it and it was a failure while doing the plastic piece in the firewall broke also I that easy to fix ? Also what is wrong with the doorman
intake ?

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Old 01-18-2015, 08:23 PM   #17
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Buddy of mine didnt like it. Not a good seal, uses its own special type of gasket, not the standard one. Take pictures if you can, anything plastic on the firewall should be replaceable, sounds like quick disconnects. The heater core outlets are metal pipes.

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---------- Post added at 09:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:23 PM ----------

But yea the one on american muscle is the ford racing one.

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2002 GT 5sp. 16x,xxx miles
Steeda Exhaust, C&L plenum, BBK Throttle Body, Steeda Underdrive, Steeda short throw, unknown stage clutch. Rear main leak. Compressor seal leak. Steeda lower control arms. good tires.
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Old 01-18-2015, 09:19 PM   #18
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The dorman doesn't flow as well as the PI Ford one and It's noisier. Dorman= loss of power.

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---------- Post added at 10:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:18 PM ----------

Also can get it from late model restoration.

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Old 01-18-2015, 09:30 PM   #19
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OK I just need to get it done quick but I guess I'll get the one off american muscle do I also have to get a hardware pack and gaskets ? For installation will I have to take out my fuel rails and injectors?

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Old 01-19-2015, 06:22 AM   #20
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Yea your pretty much removing all that top stuff. Its really not bad. I did it without a guide. Just start removing tuff from the top. I had to change my passenger valve cover gasket while i was at it to.
Remove throttle body/plenum. Remove coils. Remove egr. Or at least just unscrew the egr line you may be able to leave it on the plenum. Remove fuel rails and injectors. Make sure you get rid of the pressure in the gas line first. No smoking. Then start removing bolts from valve cover. Don't forget a plenum gasket, fuel injector o ring set, and intake manifold gasket set. Oh and this is also a good oportunity to change the thermostat and flush your coolant if you feel like it. Both are easy to do any other time tho. Check a walkthrough online, i may be forgeting something.

Do not forget this part, look up 2002 gt intake manifold bolt torque sequence. You need to torque each bolt to spec and in the right order. Make sure its a 2002, not a 99 to 04 or just any year. Dont wanna miss that part.

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2002 GT 5sp. 16x,xxx miles
Steeda Exhaust, C&L plenum, BBK Throttle Body, Steeda Underdrive, Steeda short throw, unknown stage clutch. Rear main leak. Compressor seal leak. Steeda lower control arms. good tires.
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Old 01-19-2015, 09:57 PM   #21
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How do I get RId of the pressure in the gas lines and also and do I really need another plenum gasket and o-ring set...... I also got the pi replacement intake manifold from american muscle

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Old 01-20-2015, 04:05 AM   #22
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The plenum gasket probably comes with both the manifold gasket set and the the ford racing manifold I believe. The o rings, just a good time to change em while they are out. Not absolutely imperative, but will reduce likelyhood of vac leaks. Id at least check the price at a local parts store.

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2002 GT 5sp. 16x,xxx miles
Steeda Exhaust, C&L plenum, BBK Throttle Body, Steeda Underdrive, Steeda short throw, unknown stage clutch. Rear main leak. Compressor seal leak. Steeda lower control arms. good tires.
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Old 01-20-2015, 04:07 AM   #23
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Gas pressure is relieved from the fuel rail. Front passenger side, theres a plastic black cap covering a schrader valve (works like a tire valve)

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2002 GT 5sp. 16x,xxx miles
Steeda Exhaust, C&L plenum, BBK Throttle Body, Steeda Underdrive, Steeda short throw, unknown stage clutch. Rear main leak. Compressor seal leak. Steeda lower control arms. good tires.
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Old 01-20-2015, 08:00 PM   #24
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So I should take pressure off and move the injectors out including fuel rails ?? I've also been reading and some say you don't have to replace pressure or remove fuel rails but just to unbolt them and zip tie them out the way ?? What do you think ??


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Old 01-20-2015, 08:22 PM   #25
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The injectors plug directly into the intake manifold, so they gotta go. And it isnt hard at all to relieve the pressure, just need a rag and a small flat head screw driver to push the valve in. After that just unbolt the rails and pop em off and continue working. Idk about zip tieing anything.

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2002 GT 5sp. 16x,xxx miles
Steeda Exhaust, C&L plenum, BBK Throttle Body, Steeda Underdrive, Steeda short throw, unknown stage clutch. Rear main leak. Compressor seal leak. Steeda lower control arms. good tires.
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Old 01-20-2015, 10:56 PM   #26
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Ok so just release pressure and take the fuel rails and injectors off ? So I should get o rings then ? I feel pretty confident about the install it's just the steps of releasing pressure and makin sure I don't mess up anything with the injectors and set off a bunch of codes !? While we are on it is it better to replace the plenum gasket if so can I get that at like and auto zone or would I have to order off line ?


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Old 01-21-2015, 04:06 AM   #27
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Wont set off codes, just gets gas everywhere. so have a rag handy when you push the release valve, a little gas will likely come out. Aftere there is no more pressure, theres still a bit of fuel in the rails. It just isnt pressurized and ready to shoot out.

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2002 GT 5sp. 16x,xxx miles
Steeda Exhaust, C&L plenum, BBK Throttle Body, Steeda Underdrive, Steeda short throw, unknown stage clutch. Rear main leak. Compressor seal leak. Steeda lower control arms. good tires.
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Old 01-21-2015, 10:17 AM   #28
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Ok once that's done and out the way I can take out injectors and everything else then it's smooth sailing from there ?? Will the mustang just re pressure itself when starting ??


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