Time for mechanic to change Throw out bearing - Mustang Evolution

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Old 01-20-2015, 09:21 AM   #1
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Time for mechanic to change Throw out bearing

So my throw out bearing went out this past week to the point where I cant put my car in gear when its running. Im sick of working on my car for a little while after just putting a new engine in the other week myself. How much time does it take a mechanic to put a new TOB in for me on this car? I already have the big subframe thing off that goes under the trans
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Old 01-20-2015, 11:27 AM   #2
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It's actually pronounced "mecanico" Panther...

Call around to some transmission shops in your area and get some estimates. They are experts at removing transmissions and I've found that they're usually a little bit less expensive than a mechanic that does general repairs. A lot of times, a general mechanic will just take your car to a transmission shop to have that sort of work done.
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Old 01-20-2015, 08:04 PM   #3
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A good mechanic who's dropped a transmission before could probably have it done in a few hours assuming they don't run into problems with the top 2 bolts which are the biggest pain.

I don't think the transmissions in our cars is ask that difficult to drop, with air tools and a lift, plus extra set of hands is not that bad

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Old 01-20-2015, 11:15 PM   #4
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Yeah I have done it before I just wanted to know if any of you have had a mechanic change it before. I am probably just going to do it myself. Money is as tight as a tick's *** these days
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Old 01-21-2015, 03:53 PM   #5
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Did you ever get that carburetor to work?
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Old 01-23-2015, 01:46 AM   #6
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Did you ever get that carburetor to work?
yeah I did. I had been driving around with it for like 2 weeks before my TOB took a shiit lol. It works well and starts right up all the time even though its coldish in winter here in Wisconsin. It is running pretty rich though. I don't even have to choke it in the mornings to start it
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Old 01-25-2015, 11:29 AM   #7
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Took me 3.5 hours start to finish to do a trans photo and reinstall last time I did it with a helper. A shop that isn't retarded will be at least that fast. Replace with an OEM unit from a ford dealer.
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Old 01-26-2015, 09:55 AM   #8
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Took me 3.5 hours start to finish to do a trans photo and reinstall last time I did it with a helper. A shop that isn't retarded will be at least that fast. Replace with an OEM unit from a ford dealer.
Was that on a hoist? Do you have an time-saving tips for me? I think I have to do this one myself. I can barely afford the actual bearing right now. College is taking all my time and I don't have time to have a job :/ Good thing my tax returns will be huge
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Old 01-26-2015, 10:51 AM   #9
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I just had my throwout bearing replace a week ago, they also replace the pilot bearing as well.. Parts and labor was 300$
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Old 01-26-2015, 10:58 AM   #10
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I just had my throwout bearing replace a week ago, they also replace the pilot bearing as well.. Parts and labor was 300$

Sounds right that's what my shop would charge.




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Old 01-26-2015, 11:15 AM   #11
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When they pulled my throwout bearing out it was in 4 pieces, almost was a really bad deal but I stopped driving it immediately after I heard it screeching
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Old 01-26-2015, 11:24 AM   #12
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When they pulled my throwout bearing out it was in 4 pieces, almost was a really bad deal but I stopped driving it immediately after I heard it screeching

Is your clutch ok? Wasn't damaged.




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Old 01-26-2015, 01:12 PM   #13
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I hope my tax returns are as big as they were last year. Im gonna need the $$
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Old 01-26-2015, 01:41 PM   #14
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Was that on a hoist? Do you have an time-saving tips for me? I think I have to do this one myself. I can barely afford the actual bearing right now. College is taking all my time and I don't have time to have a job :/ Good thing my tax returns will be huge
To help get at the top 2 bolts, once you get the drive shaft off, take the tranny Mount off and let the engine rock back. You can put a jack on the front of the engine and carefully Jack up can give you another inch or so of clearance.

Plus pb blaster the heel out of all your bolts

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Old 01-26-2015, 02:48 PM   #15
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I'll do a step by step for a modular when I'm not on a tablet... i did my trans change on a lift at the base hobby shop.
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Old 01-26-2015, 05:38 PM   #16
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I'll do a step by step for a modular when I'm not on a tablet... i did my trans change on a lift at the base hobby shop.
Just making sure though. Can a TOB going bad actually keep the clutch from disengaging? I know it was squeeking for a long time before my clutch went completely bad. It also had a really bad smell coming from under the car when I got down and checked it out


Before I left on my last voyage with the car, it grinded into 3rd and then grinded into 1st, so the clutch was not fully disengaging. And then by the time I got to the stop light, the car stalled when I stopped.


I started it in 1st and limped it home
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Old 01-27-2015, 12:26 PM   #17
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If the TOB is really shot yeah it can booger a bunch of stuff up.


Basically to do the trans you get the car on a lift, pull the shifter, disconnect or remove your air intake tube, disconnect all the wiring, remove the H pipe, drain the trans, remove the driveshaft, remove the starter, disconnect the clutch cable.


Then you put a tall screw type jack under the front hump of the oil pan (use a block of wood to keep it from scraping it up) and push the nose of the motor UP as far as it will go.


Now you have room to get at the two top bellhousing bolts with about 3-4 ft of extensions and a breaker bar. You should also have a universal on the end of the extensions for the socket going on the bellhousing bolts.


Once those bellhousing top bolts are removed, put a trans jack under the trans and level the whole assembly out a bit. With the trans supported, remove the other bellhousing bolts and make sure you remember to remove the smaller bolts from the thin metal spacer/dust shield (I forget what it is called off the top of my head) that goes between the bell and the block so it doesn't keep the trans from being able to pull out.


Now all you need to do is pull back, maybe need to use a big flathead screwdriver to pop the trans loose to start and once the input shaft is clear of the flywheel just lower the whole shebang down.


Unbolt the clutch bolts and omfg be careful of your toes. If you pull the clutch housing off without grabbing the disc behind it too its going to be toe city if you are unlucky lol. For the flywheel bolts you will need an impact gun to remove them. Then just yank out the flywheel off. The pilot bearing... welcome to fun times. You can use a myriad of tricks to remove it from packing it with soap and hitting it with a punch to "hydraulic" it out, buying a Harbor Freight pilot bearing puller (the crap ones from Autozone/Advance don't work) or just use a good old slide hammer which is what I usually do.


***Make DAMN SURE you use a clutch alignment too and tighten the clutch down so that it easily slides in and out and does not bind up once the clutch is tight. Seen way too many ppl think that they can just tighten down the clutch because the tool is in there and since it is plastic it can warp a little and you'll have a hell of a time getting the trans back in. If you make sure it moves freely in and out, that means the input will go right in too without binding up.


Installation is reverse pretty much. Clutch bolts should be properly torqued. For the flywheel bolts I just tighten them all gradually with the air gun and then just really crank them down in a cross pattern at the end with the gun. You should make sure to use some good lithium grease on the clutch fork ball, lightly coat the input shaft sleeve where the TOB rides and lightly lube up the pilot too. Oh yeah, check the clutch fork pivot stud for wear and also the fork itself. These can both get worn out and may need replacement.


Getting the input shaft lined up with the pilot and through the clutch fingers is not fun but is not too bad. Use the "window" where the clutch fork pokes through and a really bright LED flashlight to spot it and you and your buddy guide it in. Do NOT do the trick where you get the bellhousing bolts started and use them to force the input into place. That can completely **** up with input shaft teeth and the clutch teeth too. It will go in with a lot of 4 letter words and #rage.


Make sure all bellhousing bolts are tight, make sure you use a new gasket on the right hand exhaust flange, make sure your trans mount is in good shape and everything else should go right in. Once the trans is in and a few bellhousing bolts are tight, you are really home free. You can put the starter back in with only the bottom two bolts, leaving the top one out will not hurt anything.




Now... suggestions as far as parts...


Transmission: Get a rebuilt trans, or get yours rebuilt do not buy a used trans. 96-98 used a T45 with VSS but you can use any 96-04 trans. 99/00 used a OSS T45 with upgraded Carbon Fiber blocker rings and a fixed 5/R fork and slider. IMO, the 99/early 01 transmissions are the best ones to come in a new edge. 01.5-04 used the 3650 which is a great trans when rebuilt properly but can have a ton of issues from the factory.


Flywheel: Get an 11" flywheel regardless of what year you are. Any 96-04 can use an 11" flywheel as they are ALL 11" diameter overall, just the 96-early 01s had a 10.5" surface area for the clutch. In 99-up Cobras and 01-04 GTs Ford moved the clutch dowel pins further outboard to give the flywheel an 11" surface to grab onto. If you happen to be an 8 bolt crank from 99/early 01 you can use a Coyote flywheel which is what I did. The Coyote flywheels are 8 bolt nodular iron and identical to the Modular stuff. I paid $120 shipped for a brand new one from another forum classified. The guy I got it from had a Coyote crate motor that came with it but he was upgrading to aluminum. Deals are out there.


Clutch: Exedy Mach 400 is a great bang for the buck clutch. The 11" setup is rated for 500ft lbs, is lighter pedal effort than stock and comes with its own TOB and clutch alignment tool. I would still use an OEM Ford TOB though. This is the clutch I had on my 98 and it was really good.


Shifter: Just get a MGW for whatever trans you have/wind up going with and call it a day.


Fluid: Pennzoil Synchromesh. Yellow bottles at $8each at Autozone. Or order it on Amazon or wherever.


Cable/Firewall adjuster/Quadrant: The best setup I have found is the Max Motorsports quadrant (mimics stock quadrant exactly), an OEM clutch cable (or max motorsports which is OEM) and a Fiore MicroClick firewall adjuster.


Can't think of anything else... you will, obviously, want to have a good assortment of tools, air tools, grease, locktite and a torque wrench to do the trans. I really really REALLY suggest you try to find lift access as well. If not you may want to see if you can just pay the labor. Like I said, you should not be charged for more than 3-4 hours to do all of this if my 60+yr old father and I can do a trans swap in that time on a weekend at a falling apart Navy hobby shop lol.








edit: Just saw how long all this was once I hit submit... jeez... #dissertation #snowday
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Old 01-27-2015, 12:44 PM   #18
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Haha.
Did you get a lot of snow in NJ?
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Old 01-27-2015, 01:59 PM   #19
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Not where I live but forecasts were calling for 18". It snowed like... 3" lol. They closed the base yesterday and called to keep it closed at like 4:30 in the morning because of what the forecasts were calling for us. It completely missed us and I'm pretty sure I could have gotten my old 98 to work this morning not to mention my Expy with new ATS tires haha.
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