2002 GT Teksid 4V Cobra/Aviator budget swap - Mustang Evolution

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Old 01-23-2015, 08:16 PM   #1
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2002 GT Teksid 4V Cobra/Aviator budget swap

Hello everyone. After owning my GT for about 8 months now I am bored with it. I was going to do a Teksid block with 2v heads but after finding a full 4v I decided that's the path I'll follow. I will use this thread to share my build, ask questions that those of you have done the swap before may be able to help me with, and I will be taking detailed pictures of modifications and creating some wiring diagrams to possibly help anyone that wants to do the swap in the future as I have found most of the information is outdated and links don't work properly. I attached a picture of my car from the day I got it to how it sits today and a picture of the 4V

My goals are to have the swap in the car and running for under $3,000. Make 350rwhp N/A. Have functioning IMRC's. Spray 150 safely at the track on a progressive.

Here's the details on my build plans (they will be changing/updated because I won't remember it all off the top of my head):
Teksid 4.6 block HAVE
Kellogg 8 bolt crank HAVE
Sealed Power Forged Pistons(need to remove to check condition) HAVE
2013 Boss 302 Connecting rods/bearings/wrist pins ORDERED
Lincoln Aviator Intake Manifold/TB HAVE
Aviator Fuel Rails and Injectors HAVE
Aviator Exhaust Manifolds (not sure if they'll work) HAVE
2001 Cobra Heads/valve covers/Timing cover HAVE
2001 Cobra oil pan/pickup tube/windage tray HAVE
Factory timing components (may use some MMR parts, not sure yet) HAVE
Spec 11" Billet Aluminum 8 bolt flywheel Have
Mach 1 Wiring Harness HAVE
1999 Cobra ECU HAVE
Coolant hoses and lines
Oil cooler and adapter
Throttle and cruise cables (suggestions?)
Alternator and Bracket
Accessory pullies/tensioner
Main bearings
ARP hardware
Clutch (Suggestions?)
Gaskets

And here's a running tally of what I have invested in the build:
Long block- $700
Aviator intake manifold/TB/Rail and Injectors and exhaust manifolds- $200
1999 Cobra ECU- $180
Mach 1 Wiring harness- $115
Spec 11" Billet Aluminum Flywheel- $120
Total: $1,315

Ford Part Numbers Used:
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Old 01-23-2015, 08:56 PM   #2
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I'm looking forward to watching your swap!

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Old 01-23-2015, 09:17 PM   #3
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Subbed looking forward to your progress. Got any track times for the 2V?
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Old 01-24-2015, 10:04 AM   #4
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I don't but I plan to bring it up and run the 1/8th with it once I have the other setup ready to go in so I have a baseline to see my improvement. I'm sure the 2v won't need radials but I'll run the 4v on 275 street tires and 275 radials on and off spray to do a comparison
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Old 01-25-2015, 11:34 AM   #5
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you won't be using imrcs with the c heads.
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Old 01-25-2015, 01:06 PM   #6
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Can you explain? I could be wrong but from what I've read my understanding is I can use an aviator intake, wire the imrc's to operate off a nitrous window switch and relay
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Old 01-25-2015, 02:46 PM   #7
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You don't need them and should not be using them. You can find a 99/01 Cobra or 03/04 Mach intake and bolt that right on. Flows better, no IMRCs, 100% compatibility and fitment with the aftermarket. Many with the older B heads delete the IMRCs too and just tune them out.


They are literally just one more thing to get gummed/sooted up and clog/fail and one more thing to worry about that you don't have to.
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Old 01-25-2015, 04:04 PM   #8
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Do the "C" head have some thing different about it?

if i understand correctly the runners only really perform in the upper RPM range they put the runner control in to prevent turbulence in the intake flow at lower RPM's "Off Timing"

Just to make sure we are talking the same thing here "intake Runners" when the intake valve slams shut it causes air flow to stop it causes a pressure wave, based on pressure wave speed the runner length the can be determined so that wave returns to the intake valve at the same time it's opening for a new combustion cycle in an effort to get a little extra push of a/f
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Old 01-25-2015, 04:44 PM   #9
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@scottydsntknow thanks for you opinion (which is all that your statement is) but based on my research, the aviator intake with Imrc's intact as operating yield better low end torque, better top end power and will flow to 7000 rpm which the cobra and Mach intake won't do without modification. Yes I will lose maybe 10whp in the midrange but the car will primarily be a street car so the only time the midrange lose will hurt me is at the track. As far as the "problems" with imrc's they do not bother me because it will be a weekend car, I will spend the time to clean them periodically (which is what most people don't do that leads to failure) and I have access to spared imrc controllers.
And on top of that I purchased the intake with fuel rails, injectors, sensor, throttle cable bracket and other pieces for $150 shipped. The cheapest I've seen a BARE cobra or Mach intake for is 350 plus shipping. the car also already has a 4" cowl so there will be no clearance issues. So with his being a BUDGET build and having the knowledge and capabilities to care for and make the aviator intake work, it is by far a smarter choice for the time being.

Next time if you want to make a suggestion, then make a suggestion. Don't come out and state "you won't be using imrc's with the c heads"

Thanks for you're .02 though
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Old 01-25-2015, 04:48 PM   #10
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@WJL the main purpose of the imrc's it to help create low end torque while closed, they open at 3200 rpm to allow full airflow. I haven't read about what you're talking about related to the c heads but it may be true
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Old 01-25-2015, 05:20 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATAcharlie View Post
@scottydsntknow thanks for you opinion (which is all that your statement is) but based on my research, the aviator intake with Imrc's intact as operating yield better low end torque, better top end power and will flow to 7000 rpm which the cobra and Mach intake won't do without modification. Yes I will lose maybe 10whp in the midrange but the car will primarily be a street car so the only time the midrange lose will hurt me is at the track. As far as the "problems" with imrc's they do not bother me because it will be a weekend car, I will spend the time to clean them periodically (which is what most people don't do that leads to failure) and I have access to spared imrc controllers.
And on top of that I purchased the intake with fuel rails, injectors, sensor, throttle cable bracket and other pieces for $150 shipped. The cheapest I've seen a BARE cobra or Mach intake for is 350 plus shipping. the car also already has a 4" cowl so there will be no clearance issues. So with his being a BUDGET build and having the knowledge and capabilities to care for and make the aviator intake work, it is by far a smarter choice for the time being.

Next time if you want to make a suggestion, then make a suggestion. Don't come out and state "you won't be using imrc's with the c heads"

Thanks for you're .02 though

Ok then sounds like you've got everything figured out. Hope it all turns out well for you and make sure to post pics and dyno sheets when done.
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Old 01-25-2015, 05:32 PM   #12
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Thanks, I definitely will
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Old 01-25-2015, 06:41 PM   #13
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Ford part #'s for 2013 Boss 302 rods:
CR3Z-6200-A -connecting rods x8
list price: $32.82 each ($262.56 set)
CR3Z-6211-A -rod bearings x16
list price: $5.11 each ($81.76 set)
BR3Z-6135-B -wrist pin x8
list price: $20.82 each ($166.56 set)
BR3Z-6140-A -wrist pin retainers x16
list price: $2.62 each ($41.92 set)

Total: $552.80 at full price

They can be had for cheaper from wholesalers, obviously.

I work at a Ford dealership and I paid under $400 for everything listed

Total investment: $1,700
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Old 02-01-2015, 03:43 PM   #14
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cleaned up and painted the valve covers and intake. After about 8 hours of being in the parts cleaner just about all the carbon came off the intake. Took out the IMRC's to do a little porting.

Also picked up a sate 2 spec clutch and flywheel for $275
ARP headstuds for $120
All coolant hooses, oil filter adapter/cooler, vacuum lines and cobra exhaust manifolds for $325
alternator for $80

bringing my total to $2500
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Old 02-02-2015, 09:18 PM   #15
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Dude I literally just did an Aviator swap on my gt.
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Old 02-03-2015, 08:50 PM   #16
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I know I was just asking youquestions a few days ago! Haha
Have you gotten it to the dyno yet?
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Old 02-03-2015, 10:30 PM   #17
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Haha! No not yet. I'm tentatively set to go on the 16th or 17th, depending on how busy my tuner will be. Getting that radiator and I am putting in an aluminum coolant tank too this weekend.
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Old 02-03-2015, 10:33 PM   #18
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Interesting, I want to see how this goes
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Old 02-03-2015, 10:34 PM   #19
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Dude I literally just did an Aviator swap on my gt.

how long did this swap take you from start to finish?
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Old 02-05-2015, 06:22 AM   #20
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Some people have done it in a weekend. I spent about a week pulling the motor out of the aviator. So if you already had the motor out, then that won't matter obviously. Then a day to pull my old 2v and tranny out. Then about 5 days (I worked on it here and there, and for maybe 4-5 hours a day) to put in a new hydrobooster, all new front suspension bushings, tubular k member, re wire the harness, cleanup the 4v, install long tube headers new motor mounts, etc...etc.... then about 2 days to install the 4v and sync all the new parts up. I had an issue with my high pressure power steering lines, so I spent some of that taking the power steering pulley off and on a few times too. But over all I think it was about 10 days (not consecutive).
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Old 02-05-2015, 06:25 AM   #21
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03redz06 You can check out my build thread on to see what I did too
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Old 02-05-2015, 01:29 PM   #22
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Will do
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Old 02-05-2015, 07:23 PM   #23
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tore the engine down today, block is in great shape and won't need any machine work so we will just give it a hone.
Taking measurements to order bearings and then it will be off to get the rotating assembly balanced and then we will assemble the motor!
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Old 02-05-2015, 09:26 PM   #24
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Good deal! What are the specs for your rotating assembly?
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Old 02-06-2015, 04:49 PM   #25
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Well I was planning to use the speed pro pistons that were in it with my kellogg 8 bolt crank and boss 302 rods. stock bore and stroke.

but today we dug further and cleaned up the pistons and disassembled the heads to find 5 bad valves and 1 cracked piston and 1 piston that has a fault in the casting

So this weekend I will be weighing my options because its beginning to look like I will be well over budget. I may sell off the 4v parts and end up doing a 2v with the teksid block. I'll be doing my research and thinking about if I want to dump this much money into the 4v and I'll give y'all an update here in a few days
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Old 02-09-2015, 02:11 PM   #26
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Dam that sux, i have a question, if i was to put a 4v in from a mark 8 do the cobras use a ccw vortech blower still? If thats the case that will be my future mod is to swap in a cobra or mark 8 motor and throw my current blower on it ( i know the blower bracket would be diff)


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