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Old 02-16-2015, 12:34 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
All I am saying is that yes, suspension suspension suspension but there is only so much you can do without spending a ton of money. For a budget, its a bit of a mix.

What I would do (me personally):


-SR lowering springs/Steeda LCAs/Tokico Illumina shocksstruts/MM CC plates


-UPR stainless X pipe


-Catback of your choice


-J mod


-4.10s


-PI conversion


-TFS plenum/TB combo


-MPT tune


-Good set of wheels/tires


That is a solid 12 second ride that won't break the bank and will be reliable. If highway driving is a concern then yes maybe go with 3.73s or you can step the tire size up to a 27" diameter rear for a little lower RPM while cruising. Or both.


As for another person saying do 1 or 2 things and just drive it as is and save your money... that is really great advice too. Make it reliable and have a good looking good sounding ride going through college, get a job (if you aren't a History major or something) and then drop the coin on something REALLY nice instead of being completely broke all through college trying to turn a 2V into a racecar on a college budget.

Not working with a. College budget fortunately. And what is the J Mod? I've seen it mentioned a couple of times.


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Old 02-16-2015, 12:44 PM   #37
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All I'm going to say is if you plan to keep your current mustang for a long time and or worry much about performance than all power to you modify that stang. All I need for mine is some cobra rims, a front lip, and installing my HiD lights and I'm done I don't plan to get rid of mine.


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I plan to get matte black hash fender stripes, matte black AM rocker stripes, black euro headlights, black out my tails and side markers, and get 18x9 black Bullit wheels in the front, and 18x10.5 in the back. Also Pypes Violator cat back and a front lip as well. Led sequential tails and HID headlights.


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Old 02-16-2015, 12:45 PM   #38
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Old 02-16-2015, 12:49 PM   #39
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Old 02-16-2015, 12:50 PM   #40
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Old 02-16-2015, 12:51 PM   #41
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Idk man aftermarket headlights suck I got raxiom smoked halo lights it looks dope at night but visibility sucks.


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Old 02-16-2015, 02:19 PM   #42
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1996 Gt Convertible Auto

A J mod is done to the separator plate in the transmission. It is basically enlarging a few holes in the separator plate to allow fluid to more quickly pass through and go to the accumulators for each gear. It is relatively simple to do. I watched a 45 minute video on YouTube how to do it and I feel like it was overkill how much he explained every little detail.
http://youtu.be/gbIAKfhrdV0
It's basically a nearly free mod all you really need to have is a new gasket set for the tranny. You should already have drills and drill bits and basic hand tools.

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Old 02-16-2015, 03:00 PM   #43
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You do need carbide drill bits IIRC and you remove a few springs that soften the shifts as well as bore out the holes in the separator plate. Like a shift kit, this mod drastically improves the automatic shift function. Unlike a shift kit, this mod also has the added benefit of improving transmission longevity.
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Old 02-17-2015, 10:02 AM   #44
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Old 02-17-2015, 10:15 AM   #45
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auto trans scares the bejesus out of me, too many epic failures in my shadetree days. I have a guy I use, same guy for 20 years. I have 0 issues pulling myself and installing its just the guts that scare me. I'd rather pull my trans, order a nice boss hog stall and shift kit, take the kit and trans to the guy and pay him 200 then install trans/stall myself and have 0 headaches with tupperware

For you guys who are determined to do this mod yourself and are willing to go to any length for a tenth my hat is off to you. My days of semi-pro racing are over, my street racing days are over, im an old man with grown kids now and have the luxury of paying someone else to do the things I hate doing. But the passion for the game is never gone
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Old 02-17-2015, 02:10 PM   #46
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auto trans scares the bejesus out of me, too many epic failures in my shadetree days. I have a guy I use, same guy for 20 years. I have 0 issues pulling myself and installing its just the guts that scare me. I'd rather pull my trans, order a nice boss hog stall and shift kit, take the kit and trans to the guy and pay him 200 then install trans/stall myself and have 0 headaches with tupperware

For you guys who are determined to do this mod yourself and are willing to go to any length for a tenth my hat is off to you. My days of semi-pro racing are over, my street racing days are over, im an old man with grown kids now and have the luxury of paying someone else to do the things I hate doing. But the passion for the game is never gone
The J-mod is more than a tenth of a second and it is very simple, there are plenty of videos. And just because you are afraid of a simple valve body pull/re-install doesn't mean its something that someone else won't want to do. Agreed it is nice to pay other ppl... except that if you are anything like me you will have enough negative experiences with shops to make you want to DIY everything anyway.

The J-mod is not some "shadetree" mod either.
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Old 02-17-2015, 05:44 PM   #47
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The J-mod is more than a tenth of a second and it is very simple, there are plenty of videos. And just because you are afraid of a simple valve body pull/re-install doesn't mean its something that someone else won't want to do. Agreed it is nice to pay other ppl... except that if you are anything like me you will have enough negative experiences with shops to make you want to DIY everything anyway.

The J-mod is not some "shadetree" mod either.
well now..i say well now hold on there! It may be a simple thing until its not then its simply expensive. You got little tiny bearings flying everywhere and tiny itty bitty plastic pieces and clips and all sorts of bad that can happen. It is a simple check the numbers mod until you lose something, dog eats something, you crack something or just a general murphy's law failure. I gave kudo's to ya'll who do have the tenacity to do such things. I started out mentioning I do have a transmission guy who has been building performance trans for me for 20 years so I trust him, I also have an OUTSTANDING group who are superstars with forced induction and tunes but everything else I do myself

As for the gains, what you are doing with the jmod is a DIY shift kit and you pick up a tenth maybe .2 at best from what i've seen online. Combined with a proper tune(you can tune the hell outta your tran's behavior with software) and a good stall it could be a bigger gain but stock I still say .10 .15 at best

And any mods you do yourself, at home is shadetree, its not a derogatory term its a term of endearment, or at least always has been maybe the millennials have ruined that word also /shrug
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Old 02-17-2015, 07:57 PM   #48
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If you go by the YouTube video I posted, its VERY hard to mess it up...


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Old 02-17-2015, 11:30 PM   #49
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A J mod is done to the separator plate in the transmission. It is basically enlarging a few holes in the separator plate to allow fluid to more quickly pass through and go to the accumulators for each gear. It is relatively simple to do. I watched a 45 minute video on YouTube how to do it and I feel like it was overkill how much he explained every little detail.
http://youtu.be/gbIAKfhrdV0
It's basically a nearly free mod all you really need to have is a new gasket set for the tranny. You should already have drills and drill bits and basic hand tools.

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Just watched it. I had no idea that it would be that easy! Definitely going to be doing this one. Will need to purchase a few things. (Moved out of my parents house in NC and went down to Florida). I don't have a very extensive tool set yet.


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Old 02-18-2015, 05:41 AM   #50
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Yup, it's pretty hard to mess up.


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Old 02-18-2015, 07:37 AM   #51
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If we are talking about a mostly or all stock NPI Mustang GT with the j-mod/shift kit, yeah it might only be a tenth or two. Do it to a PI or PI swapped car with bolt ons and a good tune and its much much more than that.

The 4R transmission is not "grandpa's automatic". Even the earlier run ones were far superior to what came before them and its not a TON of money to get a basic rebuilt 4R from a good builder who will have it updated to 2004+ specs. Even a 97.5-03 4R properly taken care of is good for around 500ft lbs, the 04-up units will take more. Swapping transmissions in these cars is also very easy if you do happen to have lift access and if not... well ppl do them on their backs with the car on jackstands but eff that.
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Old 02-18-2015, 11:02 AM   #52
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Alright I believe you that its easy. I'll do it this next week if the snow clears and post a before 0-60 and 1/8th and after 0-60 and 1/8th and estimated 1/4 based on those. I will be thrilled to be wrong and pick up some real time
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Old 02-22-2015, 11:50 AM   #53
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Probably going to do the PI swap first. I don't need a tune right? And all I need is the intake manifold and heads from, say an '04? I heard I would have to do something with the second temp sensor?


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Old 02-22-2015, 12:53 PM   #54
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No tune needed although getting one afterwards is going to help bigtime. You'll need to get a tune from a legit tuner btw, the canned jobbers will not work for a swapped car as they'd actually need to get off their asses and burn a custom tune vs giving you a "close enough" file they already have.



PI swap consists of the heads/intake/cams. Yes you will need to drill/tap the metal coolant crossover for the second temp sensor used in the 96-98 cars, or just use the NPI crossover, it should bolt right up. However... I would recommend not buying a PI intake used. There is a "shelf life" on these things and eventually they will all warp at the plastic under the tstat housing and leak. I recommend buying a good set of used PI heads/cams and a new FRPP intake off AM or LRS or CJP. The metal crossover is removable and there is a bung right next to the tstat housing where you run the tap through. Work up from a small drill bit to 9/16" and then tap with a 3/8-18 NPT tap which you can get in a set from Harbor Freight for $15.


Oh, and make SURE you use a drill press to keep the hole straight up and down. If you are not comfortable doing it, you can probably take it to a machine shop and see what they charge, I can't imagine it would be very much. Like I said you can try the NPI crossover but in my experience, the metal where it meets the plastic gets grooves in it over time and its not serviceable but you might get lucky.
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Old 02-22-2015, 02:38 PM   #55
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No tune needed although getting one afterwards is going to help bigtime. You'll need to get a tune from a legit tuner btw, the canned jobbers will not work for a swapped car as they'd actually need to get off their asses and burn a custom tune vs giving you a "close enough" file they already have.



PI swap consists of the heads/intake/cams. Yes you will need to drill/tap the metal coolant crossover for the second temp sensor used in the 96-98 cars, or just use the NPI crossover, it should bolt right up. However... I would recommend not buying a PI intake used. There is a "shelf life" on these things and eventually they will all warp at the plastic under the tstat housing and leak. I recommend buying a good set of used PI heads/cams and a new FRPP intake off AM or LRS or CJP. The metal crossover is removable and there is a bung right next to the tstat housing where you run the tap through. Work up from a small drill bit to 9/16" and then tap with a 3/8-18 NPT tap which you can get in a set from Harbor Freight for $15.


Oh, and make SURE you use a drill press to keep the hole straight up and down. If you are not comfortable doing it, you can probably take it to a machine shop and see what they charge, I can't imagine it would be very much. Like I said you can try the NPI crossover but in my experience, the metal where it meets the plastic gets grooves in it over time and its not serviceable but you might get lucky.

Yeah. I'm not very comfortable tapping. Don't want to screw it up. Definitely want to have the metal crossover though. I'll have to find a machine shop near me. How simple is the swap?


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Old 02-22-2015, 02:57 PM   #56
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No tune needed although getting one afterwards is going to help bigtime. You'll need to get a tune from a legit tuner btw, the canned jobbers will not work for a swapped car as they'd actually need to get off their asses and burn a custom tune vs giving you a "close enough" file they already have.



PI swap consists of the heads/intake/cams. Yes you will need to drill/tap the metal coolant crossover for the second temp sensor used in the 96-98 cars, or just use the NPI crossover, it should bolt right up. However... I would recommend not buying a PI intake used. There is a "shelf life" on these things and eventually they will all warp at the plastic under the tstat housing and leak. I recommend buying a good set of used PI heads/cams and a new FRPP intake off AM or LRS or CJP. The metal crossover is removable and there is a bung right next to the tstat housing where you run the tap through. Work up from a small drill bit to 9/16" and then tap with a 3/8-18 NPT tap which you can get in a set from Harbor Freight for $15.


Oh, and make SURE you use a drill press to keep the hole straight up and down. If you are not comfortable doing it, you can probably take it to a machine shop and see what they charge, I can't imagine it would be very much. Like I said you can try the NPI crossover but in my experience, the metal where it meets the plastic gets grooves in it over time and its not serviceable but you might get lucky.

And also, how do I find a legit tuner? I definitely don't want to go with Bama. I want someone to put it on the dyno and make it perfect. What would I look for? Like on Google? Haha. Just search "engine tuners, *city, state*


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Old 02-22-2015, 03:18 PM   #57
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I'm looking at getting staggered Bullit wheels from AM. I was thinking 17x9 in the front and 17x10.5 deep dish in the rear. Would this fit? Or would I need wheel spacers?


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Old 02-22-2015, 03:38 PM   #58
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For a 94-98 a 9" rim lips out a little in front. If you run a 255-265 wide tire the sidewall does come out past the fender a good inch or so. I recommend running a 8" wide rim on the front of a 94-98 car. I also think 18s look way better but that is just personal pref. Word of warning too, AM has some real wonky rim/tire combos. I was able to get a better quality tire that fit better by buying the rims from AM and the tires from tirerack and mounted/balanced locally. Saved $100 too.


To answer your question, 9 wide front and 10.5 rear will fit without spacers.
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Old 02-22-2015, 06:07 PM   #59
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And also, how do I find a legit tuner? I definitely don't want to go with Bama. I want someone to put it on the dyno and make it perfect. What would I look for? Like on Google? Haha. Just search "engine tuners, *city, state*


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if you don't want to go with bama you do like I did and go with the bama tuner with free tunes for life and then contact AED's shaun over at Advanced Engine Development - Engine Builds, Dyno Tuning, Installs, Suspension and he'll email you a custom tune..pricey but you don't get *any* better than that short of finding a mustang fanatic who has a dyno and tons of experience writing tunes..If your in the cincy/louisville area I can hook you up there..but i suggest shaun at aed and the bama sct x4 tuner from american muscle.
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Old 02-22-2015, 09:20 PM   #60
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For a 94-98 a 9" rim lips out a little in front. If you run a 255-265 wide tire the sidewall does come out past the fender a good inch or so. I recommend running a 8" wide rim on the front of a 94-98 car. I also think 18s look way better but that is just personal pref. Word of warning too, AM has some real wonky rim/tire combos. I was able to get a better quality tire that fit better by buying the rims from AM and the tires from tirerack and mounted/balanced locally. Saved $100 too.


To answer your question, 9 wide front and 10.5 rear will fit without spacers.
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Cool! Thanks for the info. I'll look at 18s. And I'll definitely do the 8s in the front. Haha. Would I need to recalibrate my speedo at 18s? Speaking of which, my speedometer days I'm going 45 when I'm going 40 and 80 when I'm doing 70. How can I fix this?


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Old 02-23-2015, 09:12 AM   #61
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Some goober may have put a different speedo gear in the trans. I'd pull it and look at it. If its a white one it should be replaced asap.

The correct way to recalibrate your speedometer is a tune or a speedcal. As far as rim size, rims size has nothing to do with it (to a point), you need to concentrate on overall tire size. If you stay right around the stock 25.7"-26.1" range you will not have to recalibrate since the diameter remains the same.
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Old 02-24-2015, 02:55 PM   #62
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Some goober may have put a different speedo gear in the trans. I'd pull it and look at it. If its a white one it should be replaced asap.

The correct way to recalibrate your speedometer is a tune or a speedcal. As far as rim size, rims size has nothing to do with it (to a point), you need to concentrate on overall tire size. If you stay right around the stock 25.7"-26.1" range you will not have to recalibrate since the diameter remains the same.

Alright.


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Old 02-24-2015, 07:04 PM   #63
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Also for your tuning needs for a PI swapped 96-98 car, check these guys out.


MorePowerTuning.com SCT F150 Ecoboost Tuner | Ecoboost Performance | Ecoboost thermostat | F150 Tuner
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Old 02-27-2015, 07:54 PM   #64
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Also for your tuning needs for a PI swapped 96-98 car, check these guys out.


MorePowerTuning.com SCT F150 Ecoboost Tuner | Ecoboost Performance | Ecoboost thermostat | F150 Tuner

Okay. Definitely will. I have so many things planned. Just trying to figure out what to do first! Haha.


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Old 02-27-2015, 08:16 PM   #65
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yeah don't get a canned tune. Canned tunes don't do diddly squat, boy.
The point of a tune is to compensate for the modifications on your car and make it run right. If your car is stock, its already tuned to be stock, so tuning a stock car so that it can run correctly on its OEM configuration is barely going to show up anywhere except shift points.


Unless you have a factory turbo, tuning your bone stock car isn't going to make you pull ahead of the other stockers
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Old 02-27-2015, 09:40 PM   #66
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If we are talking about a mostly or all stock NPI Mustang GT with the j-mod/shift kit, yeah it might only be a tenth or two. Do it to a PI or PI swapped car with bolt ons and a good tune and its much much more than that.

The 4R transmission is not "grandpa's automatic". Even the earlier run ones were far superior to what came before them and its not a TON of money to get a basic rebuilt 4R from a good builder who will have it updated to 2004+ specs. Even a 97.5-03 4R properly taken care of is good for around 500ft lbs, the 04-up units will take more. Swapping transmissions in these cars is also very easy if you do happen to have lift access and if not... well ppl do them on their backs with the car on jackstands but eff that.
Ok resurrected this thread as I just completed said J-mod last night with a friend's help(muh back can't handle the strain arrrrg old me). Before we started we went to my secret spot to make a few test hits. Here are the before and afters.

Before: 0-60 5.6sec 1/8th 8.7@84mph 1/4 13.6@104
After 0-60 5.3sec 1/8th 8.4@86mph 1/4 13.2@106

Boys I bow to you humbly. I stand corrected and forever in your debt Never in a million years would I think such a hoakey little mod would transform this car. She is fat and heavy and equipped with an automatic so she's got everything going against her.

03 GT 4R70W
4.6SOHC
BBK 78mm TB/plenum
BBK CAI
Professional Products intake
Crower stage 1 cams
BBK Underdrive pulley's
Dr Gas X pipe
Dr Gas Cat back w/ Freq Mod Mufflers
Bama Tune(custom)
TCI Street Fighter 3000RPM Stall Converter
J-MOD <-----!!!!
3.73 gears
in car monitoring by Torque and speed HUD

Feels like a whole new beasty. Opening day here at thornhill is march 14th. Can't wait.
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Old 02-27-2015, 09:59 PM   #67
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Ok resurrected this thread as I just completed said J-mod last night with a friend's help(muh back can't handle the strain arrrrg old me). Before we started we went to my secret spot to make a few test hits. Here are the before and afters.

Before: 0-60 5.6sec 1/8th 8.7@84mph 1/4 13.6@104
After 0-60 5.3sec 1/8th 8.4@86mph 1/4 13.2@106

Boys I bow to you humbly. I stand corrected and forever in your debt Never in a million years would I think such a hoakey little mod would transform this car. She is fat and heavy and equipped with an automatic so she's got everything going against her.

03 GT 4R70W
4.6SOHC
BBK 78mm TB/plenum
BBK CAI
Professional Products intake
Crower stage 1 cams
BBK Underdrive pulley's
Dr Gas X pipe
Dr Gas Cat back w/ Freq Mod Mufflers
Bama Tune(custom)
TCI Street Fighter 3000RPM Stall Converter
J-MOD <-----!!!!
3.73 gears
in car monitoring by Torque and speed HUD

Feels like a whole new beasty. Opening day here at thornhill is march 14th. Can't wait.

It is a whole new beast ain't it!! Such a simple, almost free mod taking 4tenths of a second off your time and good for a couple more MPH. Glad we could help you out! And thank you for the actual test of it.


Sent from the mothership.
Slater2111 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2015, 12:10 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by retiredvet View Post
Ok resurrected this thread as I just completed said J-mod last night with a friend's help(muh back can't handle the strain arrrrg old me). Before we started we went to my secret spot to make a few test hits. Here are the before and afters.

Before: 0-60 5.6sec 1/8th 8.7@84mph 1/4 13.6@104
After 0-60 5.3sec 1/8th 8.4@86mph 1/4 13.2@106

Boys I bow to you humbly. I stand corrected and forever in your debt Never in a million years would I think such a hoakey little mod would transform this car. She is fat and heavy and equipped with an automatic so she's got everything going against her.

03 GT 4R70W
4.6SOHC
BBK 78mm TB/plenum
BBK CAI
Professional Products intake
Crower stage 1 cams
BBK Underdrive pulley's
Dr Gas X pipe
Dr Gas Cat back w/ Freq Mod Mufflers
Bama Tune(custom)
TCI Street Fighter 3000RPM Stall Converter
J-MOD <-----!!!!
3.73 gears
in car monitoring by Torque and speed HUD

Feels like a whole new beasty. Opening day here at thornhill is march 14th. Can't wait.

Wow! That's outstanding! I'll definitely have to do this one then. I'll probably wait until my next visit with my buddies who are a bit more knowledgable though. Don't know much about mechanics honestly, and one of them has been working in his dads shops for a couple years and has done plenty of work on these mustangs.


1996 Mustang GT
TangerineScream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2015, 12:15 AM   #69
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Region: Florida
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Also, I have a couple other things that need fixing (extremely minor). Such as:
Missing a screw for passenger sun visor on inside bracket (closer to center line of car)
Missing a vent for the dash on the passenger side (the one visible while sitting all the way next to the window)
No freaking cup holders. (Kinda petty. But I have a girlfriend [soon to be fiance] and she always brings a drink with her)

So, in searching for the first two parts and am looking at doing a console swap to a 98. Only thing, is I REALLY a want to keep the magnetic catch opposed to the flimsy plastic (even if it's sturdy, I prefer the magnetic. Easier for me)
Any ideas on where to find the first two parts? And should I buy the console new? Or pull it? Also, how would I keep my magnetic catch?


1996 Mustang GT
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Old 02-28-2015, 12:56 AM   #70
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Region: Kentucky
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My buddy pointed out something obvious to us but lost in internet translation. My MPH are far above my times obviously I should be running faster. I should mention there is 2 feet of snow on the ground, BUT the roads are clear with no rain/snow/ice/salt/brine/etc but it IS 19 degrees out. So not the best time to test but we ran 5 or 6 times each with trax control on/off, manual shift, left in auto and those times reflect the best of each.
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