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Old 02-24-2015, 06:53 PM   #36
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That bar is just a K member brace from the factory. Borg Warner got bought by Tremec but the T45 is a Borg Warner design, so is the T-56. The Mustangs got a "real Tremec" in 2001 and it had a ton of teething issues. However... so did the T-45 until 1999. In 1999 they upgraded the paper blocker rings to carbon fiber and fixed the 5/R issue. IMO, the 1999/2000 (and early 01) T45s are the best transmissions to come in a 94-04 Mustang GT.
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Old 02-24-2015, 06:56 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by retiredvet View Post
everyone mentions the 4v but i swear to god i've yet to see a reasonably priced 4v anywhere and i've been looking for a solid 9 months. I've hit every salvage yard around for aviators, viii's and cobras and they are all in the 1600-3000 range and for that I can get a DSS lvl 10 longblock.
Post a link to said longblock. From back in the day "lvl 10" was for the 302 based builds. Looked at their website but didn't see what you are talking about on there but I could be blind.

Also, the "back in the day lvl 10" longblock was a scam. They would claim their 302s would hold more power than a stock block due to the screw in freeze plugs and the girdle. This was/is a complete lie.
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Old 02-24-2015, 07:07 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
That bar is just a K member brace from the factory. Borg Warner got bought by Tremec but the T45 is a Borg Warner design, so is the T-56. The Mustangs got a "real Tremec" in 2001 and it had a ton of teething issues. However... so did the T-45 until 1999. In 1999 they upgraded the paper blocker rings to carbon fiber and fixed the 5/R issue. IMO, the 1999/2000 (and early 01) T45s are the best transmissions to come in a 94-04 Mustang GT.


Ok thanks!!!
Hopefully it's not the rear main seal, it was an $500 job at a local garage.


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Old 02-24-2015, 07:30 PM   #39
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Let's say I found a replacement motor
How difficult is it to swap out the engines?
I would rather find a pi motor for $600 than pay $380 for oil pan gasket or $500 for rear main seal.


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Old 02-24-2015, 08:33 PM   #40
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If you can swap the engine you can replace the seal/gasket yourself. If you are talking about paying labor to do this or swap motors... Not sure how much you paid for the car but a NPI Mustang leaking oil that you literally just bought. This will just be the start of things that are going to break. Its not a coincidence the guy who you bought it from lied about it to get it sold and then **** starts breaking right away.
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Old 02-24-2015, 08:41 PM   #41
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The dss blocks are solid. Even the base lvl 10 is shot honed blueprinted and balanced. Back in 96 I took first in spring break true street at Baytown with a 9.98@ 141 in my 92 coupe on a dss lvl 20 block 347 built by Keith craft with a 2 stage zex. Won a texas turbo twin setup from it and the same motor put 729 to the ground with the twins and I drove it for 100k miles like that until I broke the backend in half at the 330 in Elizabethtown my at like 105....

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Old 02-25-2015, 07:39 AM   #42
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Ok, but this guy has a modular block. No need to do anything to the mod block itself but some machine work and good internals.

As for the pushrod... not going to get into that here.
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Old 02-25-2015, 12:48 PM   #43
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1997 Mustang Gt issues

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
Ok, but this guy has a modular block. No need to do anything to the mod block itself but some machine work and good internals.

As for the pushrod... not going to get into that here.



Ok so after wiping every lil drip or bit of oil I saw yesterday, I looked under it this morning and saw a leak. It is not coming from the rear main because if so then it'd just run down that plate. I'm torn between passenger valve cover or oil pan gasket
Should I use a gasket or silicone if I replace the oil pan gasket?


Video I took laying underneath the car, I wasn't very comfortable.

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Old 02-27-2015, 07:46 AM   #44
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Update
The leak is being caused by a cracked oil pan


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Old 02-27-2015, 08:14 AM   #45
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Drop the K, change the pan, new gasket, button it back up and you should be good. Wonder if the dude who sold it to you just slapped a bunch of RTV or something on it to keep it sealed long enough to unload it. Did it look like that or anything? Keeps getting shadier and shadier IMO.
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Old 02-27-2015, 12:18 PM   #46
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No it doesn't have any silicone on it, but both motor mounts are bad and it has the engine pan sitting on top of the rack and pinion. I can't find a replacement pan anywhere so I might try welding it back.


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Old 02-27-2015, 01:59 PM   #47
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For mounts you should use Energy Suspension poly mounts. And have fun changing them... took me like 3+ hours and I had to pull the starter and lots of 4 letter words.
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Old 02-27-2015, 03:33 PM   #48
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My buddy has a shop and he is the doing both mounts along with the oil pan gasket.
I should have bought a new starter.


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Old 02-27-2015, 08:19 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DetroitMuscle99 View Post
Not sure where your from but michigan has a lemon law meaning if seller lied to you or major problems arise after car is bought within 15 days or so you could get your money back by law.

Lemon law doesn't apply to "as-is" used sales.
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Old 02-27-2015, 08:21 PM   #50
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Update
The leak is being caused by a cracked oil pan


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Plot twist- previous owner ran it out of oil and then sold it to you after he filled it back up.

Its not **** though. You can get a Low mileage PI engine for like $400 if you do actualy end up needing to replace the engine
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Old 02-27-2015, 09:24 PM   #51
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1997 Mustang Gt issues

Ya to bad u dont live close to me i have a pi-head swapped longblock sitting in the garage i took it out and dropped the motor i got from salvag yard that has better valvles and internals installed ( i did everything at my buddies shop/garage) but the motor that came out was a 96 block npi with pi heads and u could use all ur romeo hardware ( valve covers/ timing components/ timing cover) but realistically all u need is to find u a crown vic ( i believe 02 or 03 -newer) or if u dont mind switching to a windsor setup u can look at all the ford modular trucks that have the 4.6 after 03? The casting on the romeo heads are gonna be RFL12e or RFL13e and the windsors will say pi on them and the intake is a dead giveaway, i got my motor for $200 at the pick and pay ( almost had a mark8 instead but it had water in intake from someone taking apart the elbow to tb and leaving hood up) and i could have dropped it right in but i decided to go thru it, its also easier to pull motor and trans as one unit then to try and seperate the 2 while in the car.... It sux u got gotten but u could make the best of it and throw u a junkyard pi motor in there or find a mark 8 motor and drop that in as its dam near a direct drop just have to source u some parts from a 4v/cobra ( ur ecu will run it just fine but to get full potential/power ull need a tune)


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Old 02-28-2015, 09:13 AM   #52
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Yeah when I picked up the car I knew it was low in oil but didn't know why. The car is at my buddies shop and I saw where it was cracked, doesn't seem too bad though. I have been looking for a pi motor since I realized the motor was leaking oil however none of the JY's around here have any pi motors.

Crown Vic and Grand Marquis should drop in and bolt right up to my T45..


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Old 02-28-2015, 06:57 PM   #53
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I have a crown vic motor
Went to get a replacement oil pan
Pulled one from a 98 mustang
Didnt match my old cracked one
Looked up the oil pan for crown vic and it matched up

My question is that
Can I still use the mustang oil pan on this motor even though it's from a crown vic


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Old 02-28-2015, 07:13 PM   #54
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Hey this is random I took my GT to some small shop to have my breaks checked in which the dumbass guy forgot to return my wheel lock, I went back and he claimed he never kept it but I mean how tf are you going to check the breaks without taking the wheels off ?! Anyways I purchased new ones over ebay I just got back from American Tires and my car looks ugly -.- the lug nuts were to large so there is no room for the caps now I'm debating wether to purchase " cobra " saleen rims " as I have wanted new rims for a while now? I do plan to purchase my 2014 5.0 within a year so is it worth buying rims for my current mustang ? The stock rims were decent now they look crappy.
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Old 02-28-2015, 07:45 PM   #55
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1997 Mustang Gt issues

Just paint the middle lol
My buddy has 03 cobra so I am planning on buying his stock wheels.


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Old 02-28-2015, 08:14 PM   #56
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It'll look like crap regardless lol. I can purchase cobra ones but I think I'd need tires as well -.-


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Old 02-28-2015, 09:49 PM   #57
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Hey this is random I took my GT to some small shop to have my breaks checked in which the dumbass guy forgot to return my wheel lock, I went back and he claimed he never kept it but I mean how tf are you going to check the breaks without taking the wheels off ?! Anyways I purchased new ones over ebay I just got back from American Tires and my car looks ugly -.- the lug nuts were to large so there is no room for the caps now I'm debating wether to purchase " cobra " saleen rims " as I have wanted new rims for a while now? I do plan to purchase my 2014 5.0 within a year so is it worth buying rims for my current mustang ? The stock rims were decent now they look crappy.
Attachment 176369


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I would just look for some used bullits on Craigslist or something. There is usually a ton on there. If not check out a company called OE wheels. They have all the different mustang wheels and their cheaper than American muscle. They probably come from the same factory. Got mine from them for about 200 cheaper than AM.

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Old 02-28-2015, 09:59 PM   #58
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Yes u can use the oil pan OP... Should be similiar enough that it should clear ur kmember and i worked on a 03 merc grand marquis today and it had the 4.6 pi motor so u could look at those too


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Old 02-28-2015, 10:13 PM   #59
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1997 Mustang Gt issues

Yeah the motor in mine is from a crown vic, by comparing the two pans it was easy to see that the mustang was deeper.

What are the notable differences between a 4.6 from a 97 gt and a 4.6 from a crown vic?
My understanding is that the 4.6 in the Crown was slower, why is that? It's showing 200 Hp compared to a 215 GT


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Old 02-28-2015, 10:47 PM   #60
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I might get cobra rims replicas lol. I don't want to spend money since I'm getting my GT but oh well.


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---------- Post added at 04:47 AM ---------- Previous post was at 04:46 AM ----------

2014 gt


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---------- Post added at 04:47 AM ---------- Previous post was at 04:47 AM ----------

2014 Gt


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Old 03-01-2015, 04:43 PM   #61
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Yeah the motor in mine is from a crown vic, by comparing the two pans it was easy to see that the mustang was deeper.

What are the notable differences between a 4.6 from a 97 gt and a 4.6 from a crown vic?
My understanding is that the 4.6 in the Crown was slower, why is that? It's showing 200 Hp compared to a 215 GT


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Dam near identical but thats on the assumption that both are npi or pi , most of the modular motors put in cars are romeo motors with the exception of a few years they put windsors in the mustangs but other then that they are pretty much the same, timing cover is alittle different in the pi motors but u can use ur older timing cover on the new motors ( accessories are alil different and belt routing ) but as long as u get a romeo pi motor u can use all ur stuff on it like valve covers timing cover , timing chains/guides..... But im pretty sure (99%) that u can use ur oil pan that u have


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Old 03-01-2015, 05:09 PM   #62
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I ended up finding a crown Vic oil pan
The mustang was a 6 quart pan and the vic was a 5 quart.

Just waiting to piece it back together.
Planning on buying an accufab of Bbk throttle body/plenum


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Old 03-01-2015, 06:05 PM   #63
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Just get the trick flow plenum and 75mm combo from summit for $279. Better than the BBK and cheaper than the Accufab.
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Old 03-01-2015, 06:16 PM   #64
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Just get the trick flow plenum and 75mm combo from summit for $279. Better than the BBK and cheaper than the Accufab.

It shouldn't matter that I'm looking up parts for a mustang but it's a crown vic lol

Sometimes it's weird


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Old 03-03-2015, 12:08 PM   #65
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Ok well I picked up the car this morning and it's running smoother but that was expected because I had two bad motor mounts. I came home and decided to look at the clutch cable and figure out why it so stiff.
These are the pictures that I took.

The clutch pedal is really really stiff and it has no room of play. These are pictures of under dash, firewall and on transmission
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Old 03-03-2015, 02:34 PM   #66
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Ugh, another jury rigged setup... The quadrant is not going to feel like stock if that is what you are used to and not because its metal but because the quadrant itself does not mimic the stock geometery. Also you have an adjustable aftermarket (junk) cable and its much easier to adjust at the firewall with a firewall adjuster. Also no dust cover over the clutch fork/cable end unless you just removed it for pics.

I'd get the Max Motorsports $160-something quadrant/cable/adjuster kit and install that and try to source a dust cover from a JY or ebay or wherever. Just having an OEM cable (MM is the same as OEM) in there is going to make a world of difference.
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Old 03-03-2015, 03:06 PM   #67
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Yeah I was looking at getting an firewall adjuster, I'm torn between the steeda and Bbk setup.

Yeah I'm looking for a dust cover


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Old 03-03-2015, 03:12 PM   #68
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You need a new oem cable too, I can't stress this enough. New quadrant would not hurt either. The fiore micro click is the best firewall adjuster out there, it isn't even close.

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Old 03-03-2015, 03:32 PM   #69
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Yeah I know I have a steeda aluminum quadrant.

Ok an oem cable and firewall adjuster.


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Old 03-04-2015, 07:03 AM   #70
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1997 Mustang Gt issues

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I was going to order this heavy duty cable from lethal performance however I could not find a Fiore adjuster. The atomic website had them back ordered.
I heard UPR isn't that good though

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