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nitrous without tuner

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12K views 38 replies 12 participants last post by  retiredvet 
#1 ·
My question is can i run nitrous on my 2004 gt with out a tuner. Many articles are unclear about this. Can anyone help me here
 
#3 · (Edited)
You can run up to a 100 shot without a tune. Anymore you would want a tune and a better fuel pump. I've heard of people running 125 jet on stock fuel system and had no issues. I would run a step colder plug to be safe though. That's if going wet. Dry I'm not sure never ran a dry kit never will. I would think the stock afm would be good for up to a 75 shot or so on a dry hit. Its always extra insurance to have a tune or tuner on hand though.
 
#4 ·
You can run a wet shot of 100hp or less on pretty much any stock V8.
YOu cannot run a dry shot over 20 horsepower on a stock tune. Yes 20.. The ecu cant compensate for more than that with the regular fuel system and injectors and ****.


If you want more than a 100 wet shot, you are probably going to have to upgrade your fuel system and also get a tune. You need to adjust timing to compensate for the fact you are burning 50%< more fuel and air than originally.
 
#6 · (Edited)
The nozzle wet kit or the dry kit? You would want to get a window switch, bottle heater and a purge kit. The window switch makes sure the nitrous doesn't come on at to low of a rpm which could and will cause engine damage. Set it from 3000rpm to when you want it off. Bottle heater keeps bottle pressure where you want it to be at 950ish. Purge kit clears the line of any air in the system so the initial hit is all liquid nitrous. Also will need a nitrous pressure gauge. All these will aid in running a kit safely. Run a one step colder plug gapped from .032 to .038. Most people run a .035 gap. Most nitrous companies calculate jetting at 950psi so the higher over 950psi your bottle pressure is the leaner the mixture and less bottle pressure the more rich it would be so bottle pressure is critical.
 
#7 ·
Don't spray the nitrous fog below 3000 rpm and certainly only do it when you are WOT.


I hope you're talking about the 100 wet shot by the way. Wet shot sprays in fuel as well as nitrous into your intake.


Dry shot sprays nitrous only.


Dry shot+no tune = extremely lean and melted everything. (notice I didn't say go fast, because you cant go faster without more fuel)

Wet shot + no tune = go fast (100 shot or less)


Setting up a dry shot is a similar process to setting up a turbo. I have no idea why people think they are better for beginners. Its way more complex in the way of supporting mods. wtf peple lol
 
#10 · (Edited)
Who's telling him to go dry? Zex kits have a wot switch anyways so he has no choice but wot. The lower the rpm you hit under 3k rpms the more harsh it is on internals thats why I told him to get a window switch it will ensure him that it doesn't come on to set rpm. And I don't have traction issues in 1st gear and I'm running well over a 100 shot lol.
 
#9 ·
You can spray under 3000 of you are set up for it. Been doing it

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Yeah but I wouldn't recommend too much lower if you're running a 100 shot on no tune. Maybe like 2500 is probably still safe but I like 3000 as a safe number. Normally I don't spray right off the line anyways on stock suspension, 8.8", T45.. 1st gear is just a smoke show with nitrous. And by the time I am in second gear and spraying, it should already be at 3000 RPM
 
#13 · (Edited)
sounds to me like bone stock and our mileage range, should be able to handle a 100 shot. some say up to 125 but i wouldnt push that. I wanna save up for a nitrous express kit with a heater and gauge. sounds like a really easy and cost effective way to basically have a boost of hp only when i want it. the only down side i can think is tank maintainence. (refills)
 
#17 ·
Umm.... Imo best bang for buck is a centri style blower as its hp per dollar spent is alot better if u know what ur doing and dont buy the blower as a kit and peice it together urself... but if all u want is 100more hp then get the spray.....


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#20 ·
I do not agree. You can run a 125 shot and still be fine on stock setup but it's pushing it. For a 150 you'd just need a fuel pump on a wet kit. Jay c ran a 150 on stock internals for 5 years before a ring finally let go lol. He ran a nozzle system and crack 3 intake manifold before he went to a plate kit. You are not piecing together a blower setup for 650. If you do parts are all used and abused. To each their own. Another thing I'd like to add is imo nitrous isn't as bad on internals like a supercharged or turbocharged car. Superchargers are always on boost and strain the crank more, turbos are addicting and you always get the urge to get on it and hit boost. With nitrous you can spray when you want and not tax your internals everyday of the week. And if you have the window switch setup to start at 3000rpms its not as harsh on the internals as setting it to a lower rpm range. On the other side though beside the basic kit to actually run it with all the safety features like window switch, nitrous pressure gauge, bottle warmer, purge kit you will be spending around 1000.
 
#21 ·
With the cost of a nitrous kit and the cost of refills within a couple of times you could have gained that hundred horsepower and had it on tap all the time without having to worry about nitrous

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#29 · (Edited)
To retiredvet, with cams, pulleys, CAI, plenum, and TB you will usually go from the stock 230whp to about 300whp. That'll cost you around 2-2.5k and you will gain 70 horsepower. Cams alone will be 1-1.4k depending on who does the install.


Bullitts are better than Bullets
 
#30 ·
ok now i see what the confusion was here.

Yes i have to agree. Bolt ons will cost more for less power. +70hp sounds about right from what everyone dynos at. Nitrous will be more power only when activated and at a consumption cost of refilling the tank. but to gain 100 horsepower, will you gain 100 on a stock setup, or do you you need full bolt ons and then nirous? id imagine nitrous will benefit more with bolt ons.
 
#32 ·
100whp period if bottle pressure is right. And yea you could run that completely stock and of course full bolt ons just add to your power levels period it. It wouldnt make a 100 shot a 150 because you have bolt ons. Best way to explain is if your making 300whp on motor and put a 100 shot on you'll be around 400whp give or take. And I don't agree with the full bolt on cost range, long tubes alone for a decent set are 500 or better. Now if you were some type of wizard of a fabricator and made your own headers, x or h pipe and catback, intake plenum etc then maybe little less than 1400 lol.
 
#34 · (Edited)
sorry took so long to get back to this. Been busy on my ride. I have just over 1400 invested in my bolt-ons which is where i came up with that number. I have an hour scheduled on the dyno this saturday to confirm my software numbers but my software always under-reports. My cams were biggest cost at 550, got my TB/plenum price matched + military discount from pep boys for 220, my intake was used from a guy on corral.net, same with underdrive pulley's, same with my dr gas x pipe and cat back, my cold air intake was open box special so i paid 150

well, i guess i should count the tuner that would put me closer to 2000 but I already had it for my dodge i just had to pay a little to put it on my mustang.

I was at 288whp before the cams/intake/tb software shows(after new tune came in yesterday) 311whp, roads are wet so i can't get any test hits in but like i said dyno time this saturday.
 
#38 ·
$1400 for 100hp and 288whp from just bolt ons and BEFORE cams/plenum TB?

:lies:
 
#39 ·
I have 2100 in my car total in aftermarket parts + tuning that includes a set of 4 brand new sumitomo htrz II tires and I just made 8 back to back mid 12 passes. Just goes to show u younglings dont know it all

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