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Old 02-27-2015, 11:58 AM   #36
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Don't get Sumis, get a better tire from tirerack. The BFG Sport Comp 2s are cheap and great. I actually saved money buying the rims from AM and the tires from tirerack and got them mounted/balanced locally.

For the 315/35/17, tire rack only has the Sumis (unless I spend a fortune). They're cheaper, but the shipping and subsequent mounting/balancing gets rid of the savings. I plan on doing the 17x9/17x10.5 combo. If I can save money on tires somewhere I'm all ears.


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Old 02-27-2015, 12:01 PM   #37
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I always find a pretty decent deal at discount tire. They can get just about anything and are pretty competitive with price. They also offer a great warranty on their tires for a little bit extra. Anything happens to the tire whether it be your fault or not they replace it for $5.


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Old 02-27-2015, 12:07 PM   #38
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I'll likely get the MM lowers (and CC plates) now that I'm saving on the uppers. I'll do the panhard/TA setup and toss the uppers once I get more money.

I'll check out tire rack, but someone was saying the 35 is the wrong size for the 17x10.5? I thought with the stocks being 45 (245 x 0.45=110.25) and the new tires (275 x 0.40=110 and 315 x 0.35=110.25) meant they were the right fit. No?

I'd love to get a mid pipe, but I'm in California. As far as I know, I'm stuck with factory. Damn Prius-driving bureaucrats

I know the Tokicos are a better buy, but they're a bit more than the Eibachs. About $130 more on eBay. I have a guitar I've been meaning to sell...

I have a Steeda CAI, but I had to take it off for smog. It's an easy install so maybe I'll just put it back on and take it off for future smogs. Did I mention the Prius-driving bureaucrats? For the plenum and TB, I'll have to see what I save on tires...

The MPT tune is a little pricey, but I have two old iPhones I need to sell. I'm gonna try and make this all happen.

Everyone, thanks again!


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I'll try to answer these 1 at a time...

-Tires, whoever said that a 35 sidewall will look funny, nope. Not to mention that not all 35 sidewalls are the same size. 35 is a percentage of the tread width. So you can have a 35 sidewall that is fatter than a 40 if you are like a 295/35/18 vs a 255/40/17. You go by overall diameter and stock size on your car is 25.7" but you will have no issues running a little taller. My 98 ran a 18x8 up front on a 235/45/18 (26.3") and 18x10 on a 275/40/18 out back (26.6") and was lowered and no issues at all. To answer your question, a 315/35/17 is stock diameter and fits great on a 17x10.5 wheel.

-Mid pipe. Do what everyone else does, keep your stock midpipe and swap it out for emissions days, even if its once every year thats not much work at all. Run an aftermarket catted pipe if you are worried about a spot check or even an OR pipe with dummy cats or just a regular OR if the cops around you won't look under the car.

-Eibachs I have no experience with but they are probably ok. I just know the Tokicos I had were GREAT compared to some of the cheaper aftermarket ones (KYB cough cough cough) I've experienced.

-Leave the stock airbox alone, you gain nothing with an aftermarket CAI until you do the plenum/TB and tune it and even then its not a super lot. Regardless you will want one that puts the filter in the fenderwell. The SR and BBK ones do this but they will corrode real fast if you drive in any sort of weather, the best one is the JLT but you pay for it.

-The MPT tune is about the going rate for any mail order tune, and yes you do have to pay for retunes after the 3rd one. You get what you pay for though. Like I said, they actually take a look at your datalogs and burn you a CUSTOM tune for YOUR SPECIFIC vehicle. Bama/Steeda look at the logs and pick whichever pre-burnt tune is closest to your requirements. With bolt on cars, they often will have one that is pretty much exact but not always and if for some reason you do have a legit issue, they won't be able to help like a real tuner will.

If you have any other questions feel free to ask. My realm is 94-04 vehicles although I'd like to get into something newer at some point...
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Old 02-27-2015, 02:56 PM   #39
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I always find a pretty decent deal at discount tire. They can get just about anything and are pretty competitive with price. They also offer a great warranty on their tires for a little bit extra. Anything happens to the tire whether it be your fault or not they replace it for $5.


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Discount Tire has treated me good in the past, but there isn't one close to me here in Los Angeles (>10 miles + LA traffic). There's a Big O down the street so I'll go get a quote tomorrow. I'll inquire about the Mickey Thompsons or the BFGs.


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Old 02-27-2015, 03:09 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
I'll try to answer these 1 at a time...

-Tires, whoever said that a 35 sidewall will look funny, nope. Not to mention that not all 35 sidewalls are the same size. 35 is a percentage of the tread width. So you can have a 35 sidewall that is fatter than a 40 if you are like a 295/35/18 vs a 255/40/17. You go by overall diameter and stock size on your car is 25.7" but you will have no issues running a little taller. My 98 ran a 18x8 up front on a 235/45/18 (26.3") and 18x10 on a 275/40/18 out back (26.6") and was lowered and no issues at all. To answer your question, a 315/35/17 is stock diameter and fits great on a 17x10.5 wheel.

-Mid pipe. Do what everyone else does, keep your stock midpipe and swap it out for emissions days, even if its once every year thats not much work at all. Run an aftermarket catted pipe if you are worried about a spot check or even an OR pipe with dummy cats or just a regular OR if the cops around you won't look under the car.

-Eibachs I have no experience with but they are probably ok. I just know the Tokicos I had were GREAT compared to some of the cheaper aftermarket ones (KYB cough cough cough) I've experienced.

-Leave the stock airbox alone, you gain nothing with an aftermarket CAI until you do the plenum/TB and tune it and even then its not a super lot. Regardless you will want one that puts the filter in the fenderwell. The SR and BBK ones do this but they will corrode real fast if you drive in any sort of weather, the best one is the JLT but you pay for it.

-The MPT tune is about the going rate for any mail order tune, and yes you do have to pay for retunes after the 3rd one. You get what you pay for though. Like I said, they actually take a look at your datalogs and burn you a CUSTOM tune for YOUR SPECIFIC vehicle. Bama/Steeda look at the logs and pick whichever pre-burnt tune is closest to your requirements. With bolt on cars, they often will have one that is pretty much exact but not always and if for some reason you do have a legit issue, they won't be able to help like a real tuner will.

If you have any other questions feel free to ask. My realm is 94-04 vehicles although I'd like to get into something newer at some point...

I'm still a little wet behind the ears with all this stuff, but that's what I had thought about the tires. Thanks for clearing that up.

I love the V8 rumble, so I might just do the mid pipe swap. Actually, I'm pretty excited just thinking about it. I heard tickets are damn expensive if you're caught without cats, so I probably won't go the OR route.

I was considering the Tokicos before, but price is what got me going to the Eibachs. Still, I like the ride adjustability with the Tokicos so I think I'll be going that route.

I'm gonna put my Steeda CAI on Craigslist or eBay and put that cash towards the JLT. In your experience, what can I expect from the CAI/TB/plenum with a tune and 91 octane?

I went to MPT's site. I'm gonna wait a couple of weeks but I'll drop $400 on the X4๐Ÿ‘

Thank you!


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Old 02-27-2015, 09:39 PM   #41
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Basically, with "full bolt ons" (mid pipe/catback/plenum/tb/tune) you are looking in the 260 rear wheel hp range. Pair this with a good suspension setup and some steep gears and it really is surprising what that seemlingly little power can do. Having an auto, you will actually be better in the 1/4 than a stick once you j-mod it and DEFINITELY if you ever swap out the stock converter with a good aftermarket one.


Just remember, HP is just a number. Plenty of dyno queens out there that will get their asses handed to them at the 1/4 track by a car making way less. Obviously everything else being equal the HP will win but that's never the case and your overall setup is more important. A 260rwhp 2V Mustang like yours that is properly setup will run 12s all day and is cheap to own/insure and easy to work on. Power adders are cheap too so maybe next year if you have everything done you will be able to drop some coin on a blower or a nitrous kit and bump it up to 400-425rwhp which is right at the conservative safe limit of the stock internals.
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Old 02-27-2015, 09:57 PM   #42
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Basically, with "full bolt ons" (mid pipe/catback/plenum/tb/tune) you are looking in the 260 rear wheel hp range. Pair this with a good suspension setup and some steep gears and it really is surprising what that seemlingly little power can do. Having an auto, you will actually be better in the 1/4 than a stick once you j-mod it and DEFINITELY if you ever swap out the stock converter with a good aftermarket one.


Just remember, HP is just a number. Plenty of dyno queens out there that will get their asses handed to them at the 1/4 track by a car making way less. Obviously everything else being equal the HP will win but that's never the case and your overall setup is more important. A 260rwhp 2V Mustang like yours that is properly setup will run 12s all day and is cheap to own/insure and easy to work on. Power adders are cheap too so maybe next year if you have everything done you will be able to drop some coin on a blower or a nitrous kit and bump it up to 400-425rwhp which is right at the conservative safe limit of the stock internals.

Damn, well said- sounds awesome! I appreciate all the help๐Ÿ‘

Put in the new alternator today...

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...slow and steady, she's coming back

I'll keep you updated...and may have some more questions very soon, if you don't mind. Thanks again.


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