Rear Main Seal or Oil Pan Gasket leak? - Mustang Evolution

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Old 03-03-2015, 04:05 PM   #1
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Rear Main Seal or Oil Pan Gasket leak?

So I know I have a leak at the back of my engine, and I'm trying to decide if its my rear main seal or the rear of my oil pan gasket. Both look like they're leaking.

The inside of the bell housing is caked with oil. Throwout bearing had some oil not a ton though. Clutch and front of the flywheel are clean. Back of the flywheel has some residue but not a ton.

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Old 03-03-2015, 04:54 PM   #2
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It looks like the rear seal is seeping a bit.
The oil buildup doesn't look too bad if that is all that has accumulated since the car was new.

Was it dripping any oil on the driveway when parked?
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Old 03-03-2015, 05:23 PM   #3
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Well I put the engine in three years ago myself, and stupidly didn't do either of these seals while it was out of the car. Prior to putting the engine in, I cleaned the whole thing off really well, which would explain the lack of oil buildup.

It leaks about one drop of oil a day. Thats it. If I leave it over night after driving there will be one small drop on the ground under the rear of the engine.

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Old 03-03-2015, 05:46 PM   #4
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I suppose that you have to ask yourself if that drop bothers you enough to go through the hassle to do the seal and the pan gasket.
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Old 03-04-2015, 02:36 PM   #5
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So I decided to go ahead and do the rear main seal. I decided to take the rear cover off. It just seems 100x easier than trying to pry the gasket out with a screw driver.

As you can see in the picture it appears there's a little gouge in the front cover where the rear main seal mates. Is this going to be an issue? The crank is fine and perfectly smooth.

Also, should I go Teflon Felpro or Ford OEM for the new seal?

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Old 03-04-2015, 02:59 PM   #6
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It's difficult to tell from the picture but it looks like the gouge is in the center of the sealing surface, so, although not ideal, shouldn't be a problem. You're there looking at it in person, so use your best judgment.
I like FelPro gaskets and seals. I haven't used them on one of these engines yet though. You can't go wrong with OEM either... Usually.
FelPro is actually a supplier for some of the gaskets used in Ford vehicles.
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Old 03-04-2015, 07:46 PM   #7
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Yeah the gouge is in the center of the mating surface. I'm gonna sand it down a bit to make sure its smooth and just run with it. I ordered the Felpro Teflon seal, hopefully I have good luck with it. I'm probably going to reuse the oil slinger as well. I do usually trust OEM stuff but it seems like the Teflon one is a better design.

I'm trying to decide if I want to put some RTV around the outside of the seal. Some people recommend doing this to help seal it up. I do know the Teflon seal is supposed to be installed dry however. I'm gonna do some more research tomorrow

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Old 03-05-2015, 10:15 PM   #8
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You doing the clutch while you are in there? I'd at least do the pilot and tob while it's all out since they are cheap and you KNOW as soon as you get it all back together it'll start chirping if you don't...

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Old 03-06-2015, 10:25 AM   #9
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Yup the clutch is the reason I've got it apart. Flywheel is getting resurfaced today. And I am doing the throwout bearing but idk if I'm gonna do the pilot bearing...it was just replaced ~2 years ago. But you're right if I don't do it, it'll start chirping lol

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Old 03-06-2015, 10:29 AM   #10
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Its a $10 part and you might as well do it now. At least IMO. Like I said just make sure you get an OEM from the dealership.

Also do a good inspection on the clutch fork and the pivot ball to make sure they aren't too worn. That's an often overlooked area.
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Old 03-06-2015, 01:48 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
Its a $10 part and you might as well do it now. At least IMO. Like I said just make sure you get an OEM from the dealership.

Also do a good inspection on the clutch fork and the pivot ball to make sure they aren't too worn. That's an often overlooked area.
Haha yeah you convinced me to just do it. I ordered the Ford Racing pilot bearing off AM because my dealership wanted $18 for an OEM one.

Yeah the clutch fork is alright it was actually replaced about 4 years ago, I'll double check the pivot too.

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Old 03-06-2015, 07:26 PM   #12
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The FRPP pilot will be fine but just FYI, OEM and FRPP are not the same thing. OEM is better, this is why I always tell ppl to get the TOB/Pilot from the dealer. For a part that is such a ridiculous pain in the *** to get to, its always a good idea to get whatever is going to last the longest.
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Old 03-06-2015, 08:04 PM   #13
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Dang I didn't realize the OEM and FRPP weren't the same :/ I'm contemplating switching out for the OEM ones. Makes sense now that I think about it since they're different part numbers.

I don't feel like dealing with throwout bearing noise like I have been the past couple years. Thanks for the info though

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Old 03-07-2015, 04:22 PM   #14
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Whatever you don't replace now is going to break as soon as you drive it again lol. That is as certain as gravity's affect on fat girls
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Old 03-07-2015, 07:44 PM   #15
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Whatever you don't replace now is going to break as soon as you drive it again lol. That is as certain as gravity's affect on fat girls
Exactly why I went ahead and ordered the pilot bearing and did the rear main seal. If I dont, I know I'm gonna regret it lol.

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Old 03-09-2015, 06:16 PM   #16
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Panther are you smoking weed again
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Old 03-10-2015, 09:42 AM   #17
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Panther are you smoking weed again
Or not smoking enough...
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