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Old 04-10-2015, 09:29 AM   #1
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Do i really need headers?

So, I've been looking online for mid-pipes and noticed that they are made for stock headers and long tube headers and they aren't compatible with both. My plan was to buy the mid-pipe and exhaust and get headers later. Now I'm realizing that if I get headers later I'm also going to need another mid-pipe later as well because the mid-pipe made for the stock headers wont fit with the long tube headers.

Even though I want performance, I'm interested in sound over horsepower. It's a project car that will be set-up for a daily driver if I want it too and I want it to look good as well. I'm not interested in someone trying to race me.

What are you thoughts? Should I just get the whole set-up at one time or just stay with the stock headers and get the mid-pipe fitment for them?

I'm open to all suggestions.

Thanks everyone!
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Old 04-10-2015, 09:40 AM   #2
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Don't worry about the long tube headers then. Just stick with what you have or get shorties later if you really want.


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Old 04-10-2015, 09:47 AM   #3
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Well, longtubes are going to give you some gains and be better. However, you are looking at $$$ for good ones and by good ones I mean SLP/Kooks/ARH, not BBK or MAC. So figure $1100-$1400 for a quality set of stainless equal length longtubes and matching pipe.


Also to do the longtube install you will need to drop the K member so there is that too. Not trying to be discouraging, just making sure you know what you are getting into.


As far as shorties... not worth it really over stock manifolds and a decent stainless pipe is cheap and easy to install. You can always get it modified later if you get longtubes or sell it and buy a new pipe.


Really up to you and your budget in the end honestly. If you just want a good sound then a good offroad pipe and a catback will give you a great sound for a lot less money than the longtubes.
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Old 04-10-2015, 10:02 AM   #4
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maybe start with just the axleback? then when it comes time for long tubes, get the mid pipe to go with it. otherwise like scotty said, off road mid pipe, since your not paying for the new cats, just a tune and/or mil eliminators. then when you buy longtubes later, just buy new off road long tube headers.
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Old 04-10-2015, 11:50 AM   #5
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Hi mergejones

You asked the question
Quote:
Do i really need headers?????
To answer your question: NO

Just ask yourself if you WANT headers of any sort. If the answer is"YES" then just go ahead and get them.
Nobody really needs all of this stuff we buy. We buy stuff because we want stuff.
Stuff makes our Mustangs unique and faster, better looking to us and a more personal car.

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Old 04-10-2015, 12:02 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronnie948 View Post
You asked the question
To answer your question: NO

Just ask yourself if you WANT headers of any sort. If the answer is"YES" then just go ahead and get them.
Nobody really needs all of this stuff we buy. We buy stuff because we want stuff.
Stuff makes our Mustangs unique and faster, better looking to us and a more personal car.

Ronnie
lol i was just coming back to do the same quote as ronnie, along with "Short answer - no"
except my explanation was going to be that there are cheaper and easier mods that give you more bang for your buck. Ive always seen long tube headers as something to tackle if either A) your engine is already going to be on a hoist in the near future. or B) you're running out of stuff to upgrade.
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Old 04-10-2015, 12:18 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
Well, longtubes are going to give you some gains and be better. However, you are looking at $$$ for good ones and by good ones I mean SLP/Kooks/ARH, not BBK or MAC. So figure $1100-$1400 for a quality set of stainless equal length longtubes and matching pipe.


Also to do the longtube install you will need to drop the K member so there is that too. Not trying to be discouraging, just making sure you know what you are getting into.


As far as shorties... not worth it really over stock manifolds and a decent stainless pipe is cheap and easy to install. You can always get it modified later if you get longtubes or sell it and buy a new pipe.


Really up to you and your budget in the end honestly. If you just want a good sound then a good offroad pipe and a catback will give you a great sound for a lot less money than the longtubes.
Not quite true my man, Shorties do work. The retailers don't want to sell them because of the profit margin. With long tubes I only picked up twelve RHP @ 6800 rpm on the dyno. And when I looked carefully at the stock "headers" I realized they are not well designed at all. So my friend went with the Kook coated Shorties and picked up 10 RHP @ 6800 rom and 16RHP at 7000 rpm. In my opinion with all the hassel of installation and cost of both the headers and installation of headersit's really not worth it unless your live at the track.
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Old 04-10-2015, 12:22 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by thelastsumurai View Post
Not quite true my man, Shorties do work. The retailers don't want to sell them because of the profit margin. With long tubes I only picked up twelve RHP @ 6800 rpm on the dyno. And when I looked carefully at the stock "headers" I realized they are not well designed at all. So my friend went with the Kook coated Shorties and picked up 10 RHP @ 6800 rom and 16RHP at 7000 rpm. In my opinion with all the hassel of installation and cost of both the headers and installation of headersit's really not worth it unless your live at the track.
Yeah but what was your torque and what was the curve like? The stock manifolds on the 2V are not super restrictive like the old pushrod although yeah a set of actual shorties is going to be a little better. What brand longtubes did you have? What was your tune like? Temp/humidity on the dyno? Lots of other factors.
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Old 04-10-2015, 07:21 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by thelastsumurai View Post
Not quite true my man, Shorties do work. The retailers don't want to sell them because of the profit margin. With long tubes I only picked up twelve RHP @ 6800 rpm on the dyno. And when I looked carefully at the stock "headers" I realized they are not well designed at all. So my friend went with the Kook coated Shorties and picked up 10 RHP @ 6800 rom and 16RHP at 7000 rpm. In my opinion with all the hassel of installation and cost of both the headers and installation of headersit's really not worth it unless your live at the track.
Remember, this a thread about headers on a 4.6 2V motor, not a coyote. Unless you have a 2V running some pretty impressive rpms.
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Old 04-10-2015, 08:18 PM   #10
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Remember, this a thread about headers on a 4.6 2V motor, not a coyote. Unless you have a 2V running some pretty impressive rpms.

Well his profile says 2014 GT


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Old 04-10-2015, 08:25 PM   #11
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You could buy a mid pipe for your stock manifolds, and later on get longtubes. And just have your mid pipe altered to fit on the longtubes. It isn't hard, we did it on my buddies 11 5.0...
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Old 04-10-2015, 10:40 PM   #12
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Well his profile says 2014 GT


Bullitts are better than Bullets
And he's in the 96-04 forum... and if he is talking about the Coyote they have even better OEM manifolds (which are actually Tri-Y headers) than the 2V does.
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Old 04-10-2015, 11:48 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Mile high JDF View Post
Remember, this a thread about headers on a 4.6 2V motor, not a coyote. Unless you have a 2V running some pretty impressive rpms.
Sorry wrong forum I have a 14 GT
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Old 04-10-2015, 11:54 PM   #14
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And the 11-14 headers aren't poorly designed... that is a Tri-Y manifold not a bad design. Did you tune the car before you swapped the headers and get that number on the dyno as a baseline to support your HP claims? Tests done under the same temp/humidity conditions?
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Old 04-11-2015, 11:10 AM   #15
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Last post for me on this. Holding the 11 manifold in your hands you will be not be impressed. Lots of slag inside and just generally poor assembly. And if it was a great design I wouldn't be talking about shorty header improvements.
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