Is my clutch the stage 1 or stage 2? - Mustang Evolution

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Old 04-20-2015, 09:56 PM   #1
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Is my clutch the stage 1 or stage 2?

Hey guys I ordered the stage 2 clutch from AM and it came in the mail today, part no 07805. Click image for larger version

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But after double checking the number, stage 1 comes up on some other websites.
Went to look at exedys website and they have the stage 1 as part no. 07805... Attachment 180582

But then again american muscle has part no 07805 as the stage 2....Click image for larger version

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What's going on here? Do I have the clutch rated for 510 torque or not?



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Old 04-20-2015, 10:13 PM   #2
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And I know the stages are always wacky but I bought what I think to be the exedy mach 400 (stage 2)Click image for larger version

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Old 04-20-2015, 10:25 PM   #3
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And I know the stages are always wacky but I bought what I think to be the exedy mach 400 (stage 2)Attachment 180585


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I would give Am a call in the morning just to check, obviously if you want it to hold a certain amount of power it does make a pretty big difference lol.
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Old 04-20-2015, 10:28 PM   #4
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Is my clutch the stage 1 or stage 2?

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Originally Posted by natestang07 View Post
I would give Am a call in the morning just to check, obviously if you want it to hold a certain amount of power it does make a pretty big difference lol.

Yeah it does make a big difference. Was planning on throwing new clutch in tomorrow, had the transmission out and flywheel resurfaced and ready before the clutch even got here. Gonna be pretty pissed if they sent the wrong one or does not have the advertised 510 torque rating


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Old 04-20-2015, 10:55 PM   #5
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Ok so if I copy and paste the URL to AM's website for the mach 400 stage 2, the URL says stage 1.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/exedy-...ch-9604gt.html

This makes me think that exedys website's "07805 stage 1 clutch" is really AM's "exedy mach 400 stage 2".

I've read that the stage number is just the retailers choice on the levels of performance clutches.

Am I correct in thinking this?


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Old 04-20-2015, 10:58 PM   #6
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Old 04-20-2015, 11:05 PM   #7
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Every where else lists 510 as well. Stage number must be off
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Old 04-20-2015, 11:09 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by natestang07 View Post
Every where else lists 510 as well. Stage number must be off

They've got to go through this **** daily over at AM about people questioning the same ****. You'd think it would be clarified a lot more than it is


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Old 04-20-2015, 11:09 PM   #9
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They've got to go through this **** daily over at AM about people questioning the same ****. You'd think it would be clarified a lot more than it is


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I'm assuming their stage 1 is just like a stock replacement then
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Old 04-20-2015, 11:17 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by natestang07 View Post
I'm assuming their stage 1 is just like a stock replacement then

Exactly what I'm thinking. Stage 1 ON AM is exedys version of our stock clutches. I'm going to call tomorrow to make sure or if a AM representative could post on here that would be great too lol


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Old 04-20-2015, 11:18 PM   #11
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Exactly what I'm thinking. Stage 1 ON AM is exedys version of our stock clutches. I'm going to call tomorrow to make sure or if a AM representative could post on here that would be great too lol


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They won't be around until the morning So calling a rep,tomorrow would probably be quickest.
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Old 04-21-2015, 06:31 AM   #12
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That's a Mach 400, it is good for 500 ft lbs. It literally DOES NOT matter what "stage" it is. That's just a marketing gimmick. One company's "stage2" could be another company's "stage1".


That is a REALLY good clutch you have there. Just don't use the included throwout, go get an OEM throwout bearing.
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Old 04-21-2015, 07:14 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
That's a Mach 400, it is good for 500 ft lbs. It literally DOES NOT matter what "stage" it is. That's just a marketing gimmick. One company's "stage2" could be another company's "stage1".


That is a REALLY good clutch you have there. Just don't use the included throwout, go get an OEM throwout bearing.

I have the oem pilot and throwout. How can you tell it's the mach 400?


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Old 04-21-2015, 07:32 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by GHO5T5NIPER View Post
I have the oem pilot and throwout. How can you tell it's the mach 400?


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Because your order says Mach 400. You go by manufacturer's torque ratings when selecting a clutch (and real world reviews) not some random "stage" moniker. If you go on the Exedy website, the 11" Mach 400 (that yours is) is good for 500ft lbs at the flywheel. This is more than the stock internals will handle.


Also, the second pic you posted says you got FRPP stuff, that is not OEM. FRPP is farmed out to the same Chinese places that make generic stuff. To get OEM you actually have to go to a dealer and get the stuff from the parts dept. Or order online from a dealer like Tousley. Also it'll be cheaper to get an OEM TOB than that FRPP one...
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Old 04-21-2015, 07:55 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
Because your order says Mach 400. You go by manufacturer's torque ratings when selecting a clutch (and real world reviews) not some random "stage" moniker. If you go on the Exedy website, the 11" Mach 400 (that yours is) is good for 500ft lbs at the flywheel. This is more than the stock internals will handle.


Also, the second pic you posted says you got FRPP stuff, that is not OEM. FRPP is farmed out to the same Chinese places that make generic stuff. To get OEM you actually have to go to a dealer and get the stuff from the parts dept. Or order online from a dealer like Tousley. Also it'll be cheaper to get an OEM TOB than that FRPP one...

Well ****... Good to hear I got the right clutch though


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Old 04-21-2015, 08:01 AM   #16
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Hey Ghost - Looking like Scott got you some solid help in here! Let me know if you have any other questions and enjoy the clutch - it's a solid setup!

Alex
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Old 04-21-2015, 08:37 AM   #17
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Well ****... Good to hear I got the right clutch though


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Yeah that is the exact clutch I got for my 98 and I upgraded to an 11" flywheel (your already is). Very grabby, great pedal feel, good quality.

What are you doing about a flywheel btw? You can just get yours resurfaced if the shop doing the install will do that. Oddly enough, a lot of places will not anymore... If not then get a stock 6 bolt replacement 11" flywheel. 01.5-04 GTs had a 6 bolt 11" setup.


Either way, do not install the clutch on your current flywheel without resurfacing or replacing it or it will not seat evenly and you'll have hotspots/potential chatter.
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Old 04-21-2015, 08:59 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
Yeah that is the exact clutch I got for my 98 and I upgraded to an 11" flywheel (your already is). Very grabby, great pedal feel, good quality.

What are you doing about a flywheel btw? You can just get yours resurfaced if the shop doing the install will do that. Oddly enough, a lot of places will not anymore... If not then get a stock 6 bolt replacement 11" flywheel. 01.5-04 GTs had a 6 bolt 11" setup.


Either way, do not install the clutch on your current flywheel without resurfacing or replacing it or it will not seat evenly and you'll have hotspots/potential chatter.

I already got it resurfaced. Mine is a 02 so I have the 11" 6 bolt like you said. Machine shop said that my flywheel was .8? .08? .008? Off. Lol something like that I can't remember but they smoothed it out. My stock clutch honestly looked fine. Reason I was replacing was because the pedal felt unsmooth and it was really bugging the **** out of me


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Old 04-21-2015, 09:12 AM   #19
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Hmmm, well that's something else to check is that you actually have an OEM cable and you either have the original quadrant or an aftermarket one that was installed properly. Just got off another thread where the guy had some rando dual hook quadrant just tossed in there with no spacers or anything and he had no idea.
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Old 04-21-2015, 09:26 AM   #20
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Hmmm, well that's something else to check is that you actually have an OEM cable and you either have the original quadrant or an aftermarket one that was installed properly. Just got off another thread where the guy had some rando dual hook quadrant just tossed in there with no spacers or anything and he had no idea.

The clutch feel felt completely normal and smooth when engine was off so I think that rules out cable/quadrant. Had to of been something spinning, my guess was throwout &/or the flywheel having that notchy spot on it. I tried taking the dust cover off the transmission and spraying some white lithium grease on the tob before and it wasn't getting any smoother. I think the tob had a lot of life left in it because it wasn't making any noise but driving my car wasn't enjoyable anymore because I'm a perfectionist when it comes to my vehicles and it was bugging the **** out of me lol


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Old 04-21-2015, 09:33 AM   #21
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The clutch feel felt completely normal and smooth when engine was off so I think that rules out cable/quadrant. Had to of been something spinning, my guess was throwout &/or the flywheel having that notchy spot on it. I tried taking the dust cover off the transmission and spraying some white lithium grease on the tob before and it wasn't getting any smoother. I think the tob had a lot of life left in it because it wasn't making any noise but driving my car wasn't enjoyable anymore because I'm a perfectionist when it comes to my vehicles and it was bugging the **** out of me lol


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I would crawl under the dash and take a look at your quadrant anyway, you'd be surprised. When I got my 98, it felt a little funny but not bad. I crawled under there a few weeks later and found a Fiore quick release quadrant in there that was not properly installed AT ALL. That crap came right out for a MM unit with the correct spacers.
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Old 04-21-2015, 10:29 AM   #22
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I would crawl under the dash and take a look at your quadrant anyway, you'd be surprised. When I got my 98, it felt a little funny but not bad. I crawled under there a few weeks later and found a Fiore quick release quadrant in there that was not properly installed AT ALL. That crap came right out for a MM unit with the correct spacers.

Hmmm I'll have to check and make sure. I'll look tonight.

Everywhere I'm reading is the exedy mach 400 has a 500 mile break in period. Is this correct?


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Old 04-21-2015, 11:17 AM   #23
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Hmmm I'll have to check and make sure. I'll look tonight.

Everywhere I'm reading is the exedy mach 400 has a 500 mile break in period. Is this correct?


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Correct, you go easy on it with a lot of start/stop just to get it seated. I'll be honest, I got pissed one day after work and took my 98 out before finishing the break in and beat the hell out of the clutch and everything was fine, same with the clutches from the factory... But yeah you SHOULD do a 500 mile break in. Some of us just have no willpower...

Are you having a shop do this or are you DIY btw?

You also may want to consider replacing the fork and pivot ball if you are higher mileage. That is a wear item and it sometimes is worn or one of the metal prongs is broke off. Not saying yours needs it but it might.
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Old 04-21-2015, 01:18 PM   #24
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I have the "stage 1" Exedy clutch. Mine actually said "Mach 350" on box. I think you got what you ordered.


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Old 04-21-2015, 01:34 PM   #25
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I have the "stage 1" Exedy clutch. Mine actually said "Mach 350" on box. I think you got what you ordered.


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I've seen them advertise that one as "stage 0". Again, this is why its important to look at actual ratings vs some "stage" moniker.
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Old 04-21-2015, 01:39 PM   #26
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"Stage" is irrelevant.


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Old 04-21-2015, 03:01 PM   #27
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Correct, you go easy on it with a lot of start/stop just to get it seated. I'll be honest, I got pissed one day after work and took my 98 out before finishing the break in and beat the hell out of the clutch and everything was fine, same with the clutches from the factory... But yeah you SHOULD do a 500 mile break in. Some of us just have no willpower...

Are you having a shop do this or are you DIY btw?

You also may want to consider replacing the fork and pivot ball if you are higher mileage. That is a wear item and it sometimes is worn or one of the metal prongs is broke off. Not saying yours needs it but it might.

I am doing it myself. Got everything out and ready to start putting it back together. Really dreading trying to line the transmission back up with all the bolt holes lol. And the starter was a ***** to get the top 3rd bolt off also


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Old 04-21-2015, 03:25 PM   #28
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Quote:
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I've seen them advertise that one as "stage 0". Again, this is why its important to look at actual ratings vs some "stage" moniker.


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"Stage" is irrelevant.


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I don't really think he cares what stage it is. I think that was how he was referring it back to the model of clutch he purchased.

If you have a box you have received and it doesn't say "stage 1" or "Mach 350" then it's definitely not going to say what torque rating it is LOL.


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Old 04-21-2015, 03:37 PM   #29
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I am doing it myself. Got everything out and ready to start putting it back together. Really dreading trying to line the transmission back up with all the bolt holes lol. And the starter was a ***** to get the top 3rd bolt off also


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For the top bolt, rig up a bunch of 1/4 extensions and a universal and go in from the front of the K member. Easy. You can leave the top bolt out tho.

Just make sure to use the clutch alignment tool and make sure it moves in and out freely as you tighten up all the bolts. If it binds at all when you try to push it in and pull it out then loosen the clutch bolts and try again. There should be no resistance.

Lining the trans up... with the integrated bellhousing its a PITA. Best advice is to find a buddy to help you and wear one of those cheap $5 headlamps and look through the clutch fork hole to line up the shaft with the clutch splines. Just wiggle wiggle wiggle and it'll go.
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