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Old 04-24-2015, 02:01 PM   #1
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03 GT engine knock

Just started about a week ago... The car runs too well for it to be a bottom end issue IMO but idk. Just surpassed 82k miles. Any ideas? I hope this video can help.

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Old 04-24-2015, 02:23 PM   #2
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It could run perfect and still be a spun bearing. I can't listen to it at work but I'll give it a gander when I get home. Regardless if its an audible knock that increases decreases with the RPM I'd be on the lookout for a new motor from a wrecker. Preferably an 02-05 Explorer motor as you get the WAP block which pulls 75lbs off the nose of the car which is HUGE.
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Old 04-24-2015, 02:31 PM   #3
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02-05 explorer motor should be a direct replacement right?
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Old 04-24-2015, 02:33 PM   #4
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also... wouldnt my iron block be stronger than the alum block from the explorers?
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Old 04-24-2015, 02:35 PM   #5
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Not necessarily. And the video is private
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Old 04-24-2015, 02:38 PM   #6
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Sorry lol I fixed it... I'm going to change my oil here soon, a spun bearing would cause shavings in the oil right? or is that only if it has gouged the crank?
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Old 04-24-2015, 02:49 PM   #7
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Hm. To me it sounds like a rod. Does it increase with rpms?
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Old 04-24-2015, 03:18 PM   #8
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just went out and checked and it doesnt seem to increase with RPM... The sounds seems like it's coming from the passenger side of the motor by like the AC compressor.. I did just recently put a new tensioner and idler pulley on, though I don't think that would make a knocking noise.
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Old 04-24-2015, 03:37 PM   #9
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Quote:
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just went out and checked and it doesnt seem to increase with RPM... The sounds seems like it's coming from the passenger side of the motor by like the AC compressor.. I did just recently put a new tensioner and idler pulley on, though I don't think that would make a knocking noise.
You would probably see a wobble if it was thay
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Old 04-24-2015, 03:40 PM   #10
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Spray it

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Old 04-24-2015, 03:44 PM   #11
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Spray it

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400 shot of NOS?
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Old 04-24-2015, 03:44 PM   #12
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also... wouldnt my iron block be stronger than the alum block from the explorers?
Technically yes, but the strength of aluminum vs iron only really matters when you are making a crap ton of power.
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Old 04-24-2015, 03:46 PM   #13
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400 shot of NOS?
It will do 2 things.
Fix it or not fix it

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Old 04-24-2015, 03:52 PM   #14
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If only my high school budget could afford to spray it now I'm worried about this damn bottom end lol
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Old 04-24-2015, 04:37 PM   #15
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so are there any not as severe problems that it could be? lol
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Old 04-25-2015, 08:31 AM   #16
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Its easy enough to check it, pull each Plug wire/COP , or even disconnect the fuel injector one at a time , if the knock goes away more than likely its a rod bearing.

It will not always show in the oil or have a loss in performance

Good Luck
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Old 04-25-2015, 02:00 PM   #17
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Your vid's audio dosen't sound serious like a rod or even valve-train. I'd vote for belt tensioner or idler pulley bearings. The real give away is the skipped beats noticeable near the beginning. Stuck lifters can do this too but they sound deeper and rarely miss clicking
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Old 04-25-2015, 03:54 PM   #18
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Your vid's audio dosen't sound serious like a rod or even valve-train. I'd vote for belt tensioner or idler pulley bearings. The real give away is the skipped beats noticeable near the beginning. Stuck lifters can do this too but they sound deeper and rarely miss clicking
I hope you're right man lol. NAPA must have just given me a ****ty tensioner or idler, I replaced them like a month ago
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Old 04-25-2015, 05:49 PM   #19
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I've used an automotive stethoscope to confirm - carefully putting the probe on something stationary. Some of the NAPA guys are sharp enough to check this too. The bad bearing will feel rough so they should give you a new one. Check that the belt wasn't too tight also.
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Old 04-26-2015, 08:11 AM   #20
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so I started the car this morning and the knocking doesn't start being really noticable until the car is up to temp... I figure if it's something in the bottom end it would be more brutal of a sound on a cold start.. Did the old screwdriver trick and the noise is 100% coming from the tensioner.. THANK GOD because I didn't want to blow my coilover money on internals lol
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Old 04-26-2015, 10:08 AM   #21
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Lol the old screwdriver trick. My dad taught that to me when I was little and I didn't believe it would work.

Tensioners are cheap, get the one from rockauto. Replace the idler with a Dayco unit too while you are at it. Don't pay out the *** for them at autozone.
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Old 04-27-2015, 06:02 AM   #22
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also... wouldn't my iron block be stronger than the alum block from the explorers?
iron is stronger than aluminum.
aluminum weighs less than iron.
more aluminum is used in an Al block than iron in an iron block (Al has iron sleeves inside it anyway)
those are the facts.
iron is stronger against a neglected cooling system than aluminum usually. Engine re-manufacturers apparently see most failures of Al blocks caused by overheating.

So really, i feel an iron block is safer to buy from a neglectful owner than an Al block. but they are still pretty tough and can handle a lot of power. If you're making ludicrous power, then an iron block would be beneficial.
The old teksid ones are supposed to be some of the best, but still, a ford is a ford. its pretty tough.
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Old 04-27-2015, 01:21 PM   #23
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iron is stronger than aluminum.
aluminum weighs less than iron.
more aluminum is used in an Al block than iron in an iron block (Al has iron sleeves inside it anyway)
those are the facts.
iron is stronger against a neglected cooling system than aluminum usually. Engine re-manufacturers apparently see most failures of Al blocks caused by overheating.

So really, i feel an iron block is safer to buy from a neglectful owner than an Al block. but they are still pretty tough and can handle a lot of power. If you're making ludicrous power, then an iron block would be beneficial.
The old teksid ones are supposed to be some of the best, but still, a ford is a ford. its pretty tough.
The iron 4.6L blocks are basically bomb proof.

The Teksids... I had one, I could walk it around the garage with my arm through a cylinder if I wanted. I mean it wasn't super light, still 75lbs or so but not crazy. These were built by the company Teksid which is the same company that makes blocks for Ferrari.

The WAP and the WAP variations are Ford's own in-house aluminum block. You'll hear all kinds of "only good for 800hp" or other things. I've talked to actual builders about the WAP and they have yet to hear of a failure that was caused by the block. Its slightly lighter than the Teksid IIRC but its only a few lbs.

In any event... knocking 75lbs off the nose of your car with literally zero changes to anything else is huge. Toss a few accessories and move the battery into the trunk and we are talking about some pretty serious weight loss/redistribution. IMO, unless you are making ridiculous power, go with either aluminum block. And if you are making ridiculous power... chances are you are already going to the big bore block or a Coyote.

This is always why I suggest ppl look for 02-05 Explorer motors when they are replacing their 2V motors. Those were the PI motors that got the WAP blocks and are the lightest 4.6L motors that Ford made. And in case anyone searching this thread is wondering where to get aluminum blocks:

-Any Lincoln Mark VIII will have a Teksid
-96-99 and a few 01 Cobras have a Teksid
-Most 01 Cobras and all 03/04 Mach1s have the WAP
-02-05 Explorers have the WAP
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Old 05-04-2015, 10:16 PM   #24
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I had the exact same noise after replacing my belt, idler pullys and tentioner pullys. It was the belt skipping grooves because my tentioner pully was made in china... I mean defective lol. Swapped it out for another that just happened to be made in Canada. (Still a cheapo) but completely fixed it. I'll see if I can't find a video to show you how mine sounded. Pretty sure it was the same.

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Old 05-04-2015, 10:23 PM   #25
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You guys want to REALLY hear what ****ed up internals sound like I can take a vid of the 2000 I just bought needing a new motor. Classic rod bearing although the seller said 2 mechanics told him it was a wrist pin. He also though a snow meth controller was a SCT tuner...
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Old 05-04-2015, 10:25 PM   #26
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Couldn't find a video :/. But I did take this picture while I was changing everything out lol.

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Old 05-05-2015, 12:31 AM   #27
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Haha.

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