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Old 04-27-2015, 06:42 PM   #36
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Can you tell which one it was, now that the trans has been removed?
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Old 04-27-2015, 06:47 PM   #37
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Can you tell which one it was, now that the trans has been removed?

If I really looked at the video I'm sure I could figure it out. I'm just amazed I can't tell they were bent now hat it's out... In the video it looks pretty obvious. I set the throwout bearing against it now that it's out and it honestly feels like it's sitting flush


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Old 04-27-2015, 06:50 PM   #38
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Yeah. That is strange!
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Old 04-27-2015, 11:53 PM   #39
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Ok I feel like an idiot but it's not my fault I promise.

Was sitting here remembering a friend of mine with a lot more mechanical experience than me was swapping out the old to new throwout bearings on the clutch fork. I remember him putting it in and it looked weird to me but he assured me that's how it came off, and I knew he had much more experience than me so I accepted that he was right and moved on. Was sitting here and just thought I'd go look to make sure since I already dropped the transmission again today. Sure enough, throwout bearing was installed incorrectly.

This is how it was
WRONG
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I took the clutch form off at the tob just fell out.

RIGHT
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It is solid In there now and there's no way it's just going to fall out now like it did.

So summing it up the tob should be BEHIND those sliding pins not infront.

I am going to throw it all back together tomorrow and hope for the best.





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Old 04-28-2015, 12:00 AM   #40
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Lol.
Live and learn...

That was what I saw in the video hitting the finger. That had me stumped!
I'm sure that it will be good now.
Keep us posted!
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Old 04-28-2015, 12:15 AM   #41
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Lol.

Live and learn...



That was what I saw in the video hitting the finger. That had me stumped!

I'm sure that it will be good now.

Keep us posted!


I think the reason we thought the pressure plate fingers were bent was because the throwout bearing was impacting the teeth at the wrong angle and therefore pushing a couple teeth before the others or always being connected with those few teeth like we saw.

Thanks for all your help man I'll let you know how it goes.


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Old 04-28-2015, 10:18 PM   #42
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Ok. So I put everything together right. Pulled up on pedal to adjust and the slack was gone and no dead space. Pedal didn't feel like it was vibrating. And then I accidentally pulled the clutch pedal up again when I was getting out. Now there is slack again. Thought it may be fine, went out for a test drive around the block and the pedal was vibrating again, increasing with rpms. Also, on top of all this, threw 2 codes. P0135 and p0155. I felt like I had to stretch the drivers side 02 sensor to the bracket above the transmission. Also smelled something burning


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Old 04-28-2015, 11:27 PM   #43
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Those codes are for BOTH of the upstream 02 sensors. You will have to inspect them. I didn't plug one in all of the way, one time, and got that code.

Now it is, hopefully, just a matter of getting the cable adjusted properly.
Does it stop vibrating when you step on the pedal?
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Old 04-29-2015, 12:10 AM   #44
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Those codes are for BOTH of the upstream 02 sensors. You will have to inspect them. I didn't plug one in all of the way, one time, and got that code.



Now it is, hopefully, just a matter of getting the cable adjusted properly.

Does it stop vibrating when you step on the pedal?

Yeah it does stop vibrating when u step on pedal. It's not as bad as it was, and looking through the dust cover everything looks normal to me. I am hearing a slight clicking sound until I put my hand on the clutch fork, then it stops though. And the connection got the sensor on the drivers side header seemed like it was stuck up on that metal rack that sits over the transmission. I couldn't pull the sensor any closer like I could on the passenger side. I'm hoping It isn't pinched in there but I'm getting a whole bunch of codes now..

P1000
P0443
P1451
P0135
P0141
P0155
P0161
P01409

Ughhhhhhhhhh



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Old 04-29-2015, 12:24 AM   #45
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My #8 20ma fuse is blown. Don't know why that blew All the sudden but I guess I'll replace and see


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Old 04-29-2015, 12:37 AM   #46
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That is probably what is causing most of those codes.
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Old 04-29-2015, 12:41 AM   #47
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That is probably what is causing most of those codes.

I'm wondering if the wires to the 02 connector are kinked or something causing the fuse to blow. That connector seemed like it was stuck on something. I manages to pull it out a bit farther to get the 02 sensor connected to it but it was quite a stretch


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Old 04-29-2015, 12:49 AM   #48
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Yeah something isn't right. I can't remember if it is possible to hook them up backwards???

On my stock exhaust, there is plenty of slack in the connectors to reach the sensor without having to "stretch" it.
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Old 04-29-2015, 01:01 AM   #49
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Yeah something isn't right. I can't remember if it is possible to hook them up backwards???



On my stock exhaust, there is plenty of slack in the connectors to reach the sensor without having to "stretch" it.

Don't know if this helps but the top connector won't budge. I'm pretty sure it's supposed to be a lot further down than it is but it's caught on something Click image for larger version

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Old 04-29-2015, 01:09 AM   #50
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I can't see it very good. Something is out of whack though, to make both sensors show an open circuit...
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Old 04-29-2015, 01:17 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by straybullitt View Post
I can't see it very good. Something is out of whack though, to make both sensors show an open circuit...

I have a feeling this is goin go to require me to drop the transmissions I check this out For a 4th time.... Seriously getting tired of this. Probably got the harness kinked up above the transmission somehow


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Old 04-29-2015, 01:21 AM   #52
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Take a look at it in the daylight. Maybe you can get it loose by removing the trans mount and lowering it enough to get it free without removing the transmission again.
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Old 04-29-2015, 01:23 AM   #53
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Originally Posted by straybullitt View Post
I can't see it very good. Something is out of whack though, to make both sensors show an open circuit...

I have a feeling this is goin go to require me to drop the transmissions I check this out For a 4th time.... Seriously getting tired of this. Probably got the harness kinked up above the transmission somehow


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Old 04-29-2015, 01:25 AM   #54
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Double post sorry. **** I also forgot to mention I smelled something burning when I took it for a drive around the block. Looked around the exhaust for any wires maybe being burned by it and didn't see anything


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---------- Post added at 01:25 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:25 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by straybullitt View Post
Take a look at it in the daylight. Maybe you can get it loose by removing the trans mount and lowering it enough to get it free without removing the transmission again.

Good idea. I'll try it


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Old 04-29-2015, 01:38 AM   #55
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Could it have been the new clutch that you were smelling?
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Old 04-29-2015, 10:02 AM   #56
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Could it have been the new clutch that you were smelling?

I don't think so. I've never done a clutch swap before though so idk what to expect. What are some things to expect with a new clutch and stock cable, quadrant, and no firewall adjuster?


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Old 04-29-2015, 12:08 PM   #57
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In a perfect world?
Nothing. You install the clutch and everything works perfectly for the next 150k+ miles...

If it is me or you doing the job?
Everything is a struggle. Nothing goes smoothly, and all of the parts need to be replaced.

Crawl under the dashboard and see if you can tell if the quadrant is releasing when you pull up firmly on the clutch pedal.
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Old 04-30-2015, 09:39 AM   #58
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You need to get an aftermarket clutch quadrant. Your new clutch has a little different travel than the stock clutches. I would look into getting the Maximum Motorsports clutch quadrant kit. Comes with everything and it's the OEM cable, which is the best.

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Cl...kage-P385.aspx

This will make it much easier to adjust as well. You won't have to get under the car to adjust.


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Old 04-30-2015, 11:54 AM   #59
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You need to get an aftermarket clutch quadrant. Your new clutch has a little different travel than the stock clutches. I would look into getting the Maximum Motorsports clutch quadrant kit. Comes with everything and it's the OEM cable, which is the best.

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Cl...kage-P385.aspx

This will make it much easier to adjust as well. You won't have to get under the car to adjust.


@azurebluemach

Ok I'll prolly have to grab one. This will help get rid of the vibration I'm feeling in the slack of the pedal?


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Old 04-30-2015, 02:46 PM   #60
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Ok I'll prolly have to grab one. This will help get rid of the vibration I'm feeling in the slack of the pedal?


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My guess that the slack is allowing the throw out bearing to jump on and off if the clutch pressure plate fingers. Having the new clutch quadrant and firewall adjuster will let you adjust the throw out bearing in the right spot.

You don't have to do this, but I put a spring down on the cable at the clutch fork. It's basically a freeplay spring. It springs the pedal back up, like the stock setup used to.

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Old 04-30-2015, 11:31 PM   #61
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Well found where it was pinched.... Had to drop the transmission again Click image for larger version

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Old 04-30-2015, 11:35 PM   #62
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Yikes!
It looks like it was in a vice!
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Old 04-30-2015, 11:52 PM   #63
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Yikes!

It looks like it was in a vice!

Yeah it was crushed in the bellhousing.. Got too tired and pissed off at it being the 4th time in a week I've had to drop it I guess I just didn't notice it.


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Old 04-30-2015, 11:58 PM   #64
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Old 05-01-2015, 12:32 AM   #65
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If you know how to solder, I recommend cutting the damaged wires directly in the middle of where they are pinched and stripping the insulation back just enough to get to good wire, and then soldering a good connection. Use the proper size shrink tubing and do not forget to install it on the wire BEFORE you solder the connection!
If you think that the harness is going to be too short, you can add a short piece of the same guage wire to each of the wires.
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Old 05-01-2015, 12:39 AM   #66
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If you know how to solder, I recommend cutting the damaged wires directly in the middle of where they are pinched and stripping the insulation back just enough to get to good wire, and then soldering a good connection. Use the proper size shrink tubing and do not forget to install it on the wire BEFORE you solder the connection!

If you think that the harness is going to be too short, you can add a short piece of the same guage wire to each of the wires.

Ok, the biggest thing I'm worried about is it's damaged so close to the connector idk how much wiggle room I have


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Old 05-01-2015, 12:55 AM   #67
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Just cut the wire barely enough to get to clean wire and you should be fine.
Sorry that you are having to go through all of this... I have had my fair share of this kind of stuff!
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Old 05-01-2015, 01:06 AM   #68
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Just cut the wire barely enough to get to clean wire and you should be fine.

Sorry that you are having to go through all of this... I have had my fair share of this kind of stuff!

Not your fault! I appreciate all the help! And the sympathy haha


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Old 05-01-2015, 01:29 PM   #69
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Do I even need this metal strip that holds the connectors on top of the transmission? All it does is get in the way in my opinionClick image for larger version

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Old 05-01-2015, 01:41 PM   #70
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My opinion on that sort of thing is, Ford wouldn't have spent the money to put that part on hundreds of thousands of cars if they didn't think that it was necessary. They are also in the business of building cars, not taking them back apart. They don't always design parts, or components, that are "user friendly" during repairs.

Use your best judgment...
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