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Old 04-26-2015, 10:54 AM   #1
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Coolant leak

So I finally got around to addressing my (once previously slow) leak, it's only been on my to-do list since June 2013....

Got the intake pulled w/o too much drama, and here's where we stand:



















So my next step is to remove all the existing crud and remnants of the old gaskets without dropping **** down the ports. The blue injector seals and the rectangular red seals in the connectors are all present and accounted for.

My concern is the last two pics, one of the plenum and one of the injectors. Both are OE/stock AFAIK. Is this normal "wear and tear" or am I just being paranoid? Also, will I need to apply rtv when putting the plenum back on? Didnt see any during removal.

Thanks for any input to help this automotive weekend warrior.
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Old 04-26-2015, 10:57 AM   #2
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Forgot to mention, '04 GT with 107k on the clock and no mods....
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Old 04-26-2015, 11:36 AM   #3
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Coolant leak

Go get the right gaskets for everything. You shouldn't have to use RTV for anything. And the plenum has an O ring that is reusable.

Also you can hook your injectors up to a 9v battery and run carb cleaner or solvent through them to clean them up. There's dozens of tutorials on YouTube for doing it. Replace those Orings also.
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Old 04-26-2015, 12:15 PM   #4
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I've got the felpro gaskets already for the manifold, plus a new motorcraft thermostat & o-ring. I am fuzzy on the application of the RTV in addition to the gaskets, as in "should i or shouldn't i"

I havent noticed any throttle response issues or sputtering, so i dont believe there is a current fuel-related problem, im just basing this on the visual of the injectors. Every few months or so I throw a bottle of injector cleaner into the tank as well.
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Old 04-26-2015, 12:43 PM   #5
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Welcome back HD!

No RTV is necessary. Just clean everything up and make sure that you torque the manifold in sequence.
All of the crud in the intake is fairly normal. It is from the PCV system "doing it's job".
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Old 04-26-2015, 02:10 PM   #6
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Quote:
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Welcome back HD!

No RTV is necessary. Just clean everything up and make sure that you torque the manifold in sequence.
All of the crud in the intake is fairly normal. It is from the PCV system "doing it's job".
Thanks, stray....been a while lol

Now for the potential bad news. Got a full set of felpro o-rings for the injectors, good call on that Slater , and as im cleaning up the grime and crud I notice this:



and this on the other side:


What I think I'm seeing is plastic fatigue, and without a proper seal I'll be spraying coolant internally. So give it to me straight, docs....I need to replace the intake altogether now don't I?
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Old 04-26-2015, 02:18 PM   #7
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Coolant leak

It's very possible that the plastic is brittle and leaking. They are notorious for it after all. Make sure you get the OEM one if you do replace it. The plastic quality on the aftermarket ones aren't the same.

I'd replace it.
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Old 04-26-2015, 02:24 PM   #8
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Lol.
I just assumed that the intake manifold was the cause of the leak!
Yes. If the intake manifold looks suspect, you should definitely replace it.

Get a FRPP... Don't use a Dorman.
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Old 04-26-2015, 03:44 PM   #9
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Lordy yes! FRPP or stay home lol.

Been researching for replacements in the meantime, seen a few at about $215 from the usual suspects (AM, Summit, Jegs), plus one at blueoval but that woudn;t get to me in time.

So thanks AM for another pony part lol, will have it mid-week and done next Sat.
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Old 04-27-2015, 05:50 AM   #10
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or if your feelin adventurous, or think you may be replacing the intake manifold again in 100k miles and still driving it, grab that metal typhoon intake manifold.
Professional Products Mustang Typhoon Intake Manifold Satin (99-04) GT 4.6

i heard this one will offer some low end torque increase with a tune, like the bullits
Trick Flow Mustang Track Heat Aluminum Intake Manifold Silver (99-04) GT 4.6 2V 51800002
but aint nobody got money fo dat.
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Old 04-27-2015, 07:45 PM   #11
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Nah not that adventurous....yet. I did put some thought into it but decided the accountant is happier this way lol.
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Old 04-27-2015, 08:50 PM   #12
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I have found many reviews on those manifolds that say you loose HP and Tq in the low and mid range and they aren't worth it.


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Old 04-28-2015, 07:17 AM   #13
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Quote:
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I have found many reviews on those manifolds that say you loose HP and Tq in the low and mid range and they aren't worth it.


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Ford Racing it is. I put one of those on my car, and.. well... it felt just like stock. which is great, considering its the stock part for the PI heads. slapped some felpro gaskets on there, new o rings for the injectors. finally got my passenger side valve cover replaced (had replaced drivers side months prior, got mad at ac parts for being in the way, proceeded to give my engine bay the middle finger, and closed it all up) and everythings been great so far. at least you had time to decide when to tackle this job. the piece to attach the heater hose from the heater core broke, and i had to rig it back on with a temporary fix while i waited for shipping.
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Old 04-28-2015, 08:47 AM   #14
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That warping is normal unfortunately, happened to me too, all pi intakes leak there eventually. This is why I never suggest buying a used intake for a pi swap. Frpp intake from lrs or am. Fel pro gaskets. No rtv. You MUST torque it with a torque wrench in the correct sequence. Going in 3 passes is a good idea too. 10 ft lbs, then 18, then 22. Or something like that.

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Old 05-02-2015, 01:45 PM   #15
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Thanks for the advice, scotty, I did just that, in sequence....torqued to 13 ft-lbs then 16 next where it will sit for a bit while she idles and warms up, then hit it again to 19 ft-lbs for final.

She cleaned up nicely:


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Old 05-02-2015, 01:51 PM   #16
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However, Im not outta the woods yet. My current snafu is self-induced, as I was cleaning the injectors and removing the old o-rings to apply the new ones i cracked/broke the internal housing doohickey:


Im not thrilled to drop $70 for one of the suckas, even less so for a new set at $300. Can i still run with this or no? If not, can i mix manufacturers (accel, holley, etc) and/or lb-per-hour ratings if it does not properly align with the 19lb/hr stock ones?
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Old 05-02-2015, 02:07 PM   #17
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The Pintle caps commonly break.
You can get replacements here...
http://www.mrinjector.us/fuel-injector-parts.html

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Old 05-02-2015, 05:04 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by straybullitt View Post
The Pintle caps commonly break.
You can get replacements here...
Fuel Injector Parts - Mr Injector
Sofa King SCORE, stray!

Found a fuel injector "kit" at Napa...2 o-rings, 1 pintle cap, and 1 grommet...all for about $10

This helped complete my project, and we are fully reassembled and purrrrrrs like a kitten with no leaks (knocks wood).

Thank you to all who helped with this project! Whole thing done and dusted for under $300 and about 6hrs or so (the OCD cleaning bug hit me lol)

-Doof
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