Brought it home today finally. Anyone not following my other thread, I only paid $5500 for 34k original miles because it has a blown motor. Looking for replacement motors already and found a ton of real low mile Vic engines locally. Car is not perfect... Little nitpcky things that drive me bonkers that I will get on immediately.
Honestly... Not really much to do after I swap the motor out and cosmetic stuff. I'll list the build sheet when I get on a computer.
In other news, building/pricing out a fuel system. Going return. Not ****ing with returnless, I hate it and going return is simple and cheap for DIY and the power levels I'll be at.
Twin Walbro 255s or Bosch 044s, 97-down stock tank, UPR pickup/return tube, Aeromotive 1:1 regulator, inline filters, factory feed line as the return line and a -10 AN feed line with UPR or MMR rails. Hobbs switch to run the second pump only when needed.
So drove down to the e85 station today. 30 minutes through mostly windy back roads and they have a badass deli too so going there is worth it for a cheat day minus even the e85. $1.69 per gallon currently for E85. I dunno, this car will not be a DD. Kicking around the flat tops again with an E85 and 93 octane tune as a backup. Or stay 9.5:1 and do the same with a real aggressive tune for E85.
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I suppose that you could also fill up some gas cans with E85, to extend your "range" in between fill-ups.
What if you want to drive it to a distant show or something like that? Are you willing to plan out the drive like a flight plan? Mapping out every fuel stop along the way?
Got the Cobra motor apart finally and starting on the Conti. No forged pistons or rods as I figured, and also the crank is scuffed on the place where it spun a rod so I'm going to have it looked at but looks like turning it .010 or .020 will clean it up. If not I've still already made my money back on this motor plus another $600 pending with the cams and block and rods/pistons. I have a few good cast cranks anyway and I'm strongly considering using one of them anyway for cost as well as weight.
And another curve ball... Found a guy with a custom adapter plate for making a FWD continental motor mate with RWD trans. Documented on the corral making almost 600whp through a TKO with forged internals. Picked it up and going to make templates and see how much it is to copy. I have a laser etcher at work I should be able to set high enough to cut through 1/4" of metal. Or have a local shop make me copies. This means I'll have a nice supply of "Cobra" motors for cheap as hell.
Now I'm kicking around putting this stock 42k mile C headed 4V in and having it up and running in time for the AM show.
Tune it to 450whp and hope it holds. That's what I was going to do anyway since that's about all the trans will hold...
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Let me get this straight... The idea of the adapter is so that you will be able to use the less expensive Continental 4V engine rather than the Cobra?
I assume that the only difference between the two is the FWD vs RWD configuration of the Continental? Heads and everything is the same as the Cobra? Same engine mounts?
Bellhousing bolt pattern and the only other thing is a single motor mount boss on the rear pass side that needs drilled and tapped. Besides that it's a direct 4V swap. Same heads and rotating assembly. Just needs Cobra or Mach intake and Cobra/Mach front parts.
Going to get at least one copy of this plate made too. Could wind up being profitable in the future flipping Mustangs with cheap 4V swaps.
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Nah, I'm just doing the mustang "thrift store" thing. Just have to know what comes in what.
TBTH I'm sick of the car sitting and I can drop this 42k mile 4V right in. Going to pull the valve covers and if it has the X3RE 99 Cobra cams in it I'm just going to leave them. Only thing I WILL do is a Cobra engineering passenger head tensioner so its putting tension on the correct side of the secondary chain.
I'm going to get this car running, flip my boss's Grand Cherokee he's selling to me for $500 that just needs a water pump and front wheel bearings/brakes and then look for a 96-98 convertible GT automatic. 4V, converter and 4R75w swap, setup for drag with a 150 shot.
Going to drop in better intake cams, degree them and throw it in as is. Set it to 450whp and shift at 6800 and hope it holds till I get the actual build done. I'm sick of this car sitting
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Yes. I can see that.
I'm wondering if they are some sort of custom made threaded anchors? Or are they something that you will be able to find as an off the shelf part?
The rest of it looks like it would be fairly simple to copy. You could do it with a jig saw and a drill press.
If you ever wanted to make multiple copies, probably the most economical way to do it would be to have the adaptor plates water-jetted. And then do the counter-sinks with a drill press at home. Those stud anchors will be the most difficult part.
Also looking again for more **** to sell. Just sold that Teksid for $300. I bought the motor for $350. Intake sold for $250, cams for $200, block for $300, rods and pistons for $100 and I got a LOT of the small parts I need for my motor. I'd say that was a good find.
I did find an aluminator block with 3V rods/pistons/crank and oil pump/pickup/tray for $550 but that's a little too much and the guy can't verify the mileage 100%. Pass...
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