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Old 08-17-2017, 07:28 PM   #841
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By couple if you mean 4-6 for startup then I got u lol.

Anyway, done with it. Just need to wait for daylight tomorrow to triple check everything, run the abs sensors into the trunk and then throw the wheels on it and down. Yes the rotors are terrible I'll be changing them later. Putting these IRS in any 99-04 really is 100% plug and play but goddamn it's heavy.

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2000 Mustang GT Steeda build #48. Bolt ons, suspension, Novi 2000.

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Old 08-17-2017, 07:33 PM   #842
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Sweet!
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Old 08-18-2017, 05:58 PM   #843
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Down on the ground! Well, I will need some longer bolts for the shocks, the ones that came with it turned out to only get 4 threads of engagement so I'll stop at fastenal whenever but that's not a problem right now.

Now...

Going to fully finish prepping the original stuff for pull which literally just is removing a few accessories from the front and unbolting the motor/trans mounts and pulling off the old X pipe. Easy stuff. Hoist and load leveler for pulling the 2V and trans out at the same time.
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Old 08-18-2017, 11:19 PM   #844
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That must be a relief to finally get that done... I know that rear end was even starting to wear ME out! Haha

Well good deal! Now on to the business end of the car!
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Old 08-20-2017, 12:42 PM   #845
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Yep, cleaned the garage up and uncovered the 4V for inspection and did a little on the 2V this weekend. Had a lot of other stuff to take care of this weekend. This week after work I'll get on it pretty good and next week prep the 2V for pull and hopefully even get it out.

Once I get the 4V put together and in... its just hooking stuff up after that.
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Old 08-28-2017, 07:37 PM   #846
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That feeling when you are finally ready to pull the old engine... Still amazes me how little actually holds these things in place, just a lot of extra BS that has to get removed.
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Old 08-28-2017, 10:37 PM   #847
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Yes. All of the extra BS is unfortunately what takes the majority of the time.

Years ago, when there was still a lot of air-cooled Volkswagens on the road, there were a lot of guys who claimed to be able to remove an engine from a vehicle in 5 minutes... Or less!
And nobody ever thought that they were exaggerating! A few bolts, fuel line, throttle cable, vacuum lines, alternator/generator wires, and a few "extras", depending upon the year, that could all be quickly disconnected.
Simpler car for a simpler time, I guess.

No matter how "good" of a mechanic that I think that I am, I still mark all of the electrical connectors and vacuum lines that aren't obvious where they connect to (Which is usually most of them!). That way it doesn't confuse my feeble brain too much during reassembly.
It all usually goes pretty fast once I get started. Typically, for me, thinking about doing the work is the hardest part. It's rarely as hard as I make it out to be beforehand. It always is more time consuming than originally anticipated though...
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Old 08-28-2017, 11:57 PM   #848
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Quote:
Originally Posted by straybullitt View Post
Yes. All of the extra BS is unfortunately what takes the majority of the time.

Years ago, when there was still a lot of air-cooled Volkswagens on the road, there were a lot of guys who claimed to be able to remove an engine from a vehicle in 5 minutes... Or less!
And nobody ever thought that they were exaggerating! A few bolts, fuel line, throttle cable, vacuum lines, alternator/generator wires, and a few "extras", depending upon the year, that could all be quickly disconnected.
Simpler car for a simpler time, I guess.

No matter how "good" of a mechanic that I think that I am, I still mark all of the electrical connectors and vacuum lines that aren't obvious where they connect to (Which is usually most of them!). That way it doesn't confuse my feeble brain too much during reassembly.
It all usually goes pretty fast once I get started. Typically, for me, thinking about doing the work is the hardest part. It's rarely as hard as I make it out to be beforehand. It always is more time consuming than originally anticipated though...
Very true words.
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Old 08-30-2017, 06:56 PM   #849
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1" wheel spacers for the rear and the last bolts I needed for the shocks and swaybar showed up today. Spacers are $47 from CJP and hubcentric.

Fastenal online for the hardware. They have every damn bolt you can think of and fast ship.

Edit:. If you do a trade and all the hardware is grade 5... Be suspicious... Grade 8.8 in metric is not "grade 8". 10.9 is "grade 8" for metric.

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Old 08-30-2017, 06:59 PM   #850
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I have considered some 1" spacers for a staggered look.
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Old 08-30-2017, 08:43 PM   #851
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That's good info about the grades for metric and standard. Seriously didn't know there would have been a difference.
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Old 08-31-2017, 03:18 PM   #852
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I have considered some 1" spacers for a staggered look.
That is 1". I don't exactly like it now but I'm going to cut the IRS springs a little and drop it down and also those 285s are way big for those 9" rims. I like just a touch over flush with the rim lip like my blue one was. So once that is done and the camber is corrected it'll be great.




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That's good info about the grades for metric and standard. Seriously didn't know there would have been a difference.
Oh yeah, way too many ppl think grade 8.8 in metric = good. That is grade 5 in standard lol. Most box stores carry limited metric and even less 10.9 metric and never any 10.9 nuts. Why I just did Fastenal.


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Old 08-31-2017, 04:24 PM   #853
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One other thing...use ARP studs if you do studs... I dunno what the heck brand of 3" studs are on this thing but I'm probably going to have to change them at some point after I get it running. But everything is torqued to 100ft lbs and good for now.
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Old 08-31-2017, 04:30 PM   #854
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That is 1". I don't exactly like it now but I'm going to cut the IRS springs a little and drop it down and also those 285s are way big for those 9" rims. I like just a touch over flush with the rim lip like my blue one was. So once that is done and the camber is corrected it'll be great.






Oh yeah, way too many ppl think grade 8.8 in metric = good. That is grade 5 in standard lol. Most box stores carry limited metric and even less 10.9 metric and never any 10.9 nuts. Why I just did Fastenal.


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That is perfect wheel width and spacing.

I agree that the tire needs to extend beyond the lip just a bit.
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Old 09-01-2017, 03:06 PM   #855
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Getting close on this thing now... 6 weeks till I leave for school in DE and then about 5 weeks after that till I'd have to have the car shipped.

Its an engine swap now but... putting a NA 2V in there and hooking everything up is a weekend job, the 4V swap plus the blower plus the nickel and dime stuff... I can always buy a new Novi or Kenne Bell kit later on...

About to pull the trigger on selling it all and I know I go back and forth a lot but at this point it is a matter of actually getting the car running or having to fire sale it in November and hating everything.
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Old 09-01-2017, 03:19 PM   #856
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Getting close on this thing now... 6 weeks till I leave for school in DE and then about 5 weeks after that till I'd have to have the car shipped.

Its an engine swap now but... putting a NA 2V in there and hooking everything up is a weekend job, the 4V swap plus the blower plus the nickel and dime stuff... I can always buy a new Novi or Kenne Bell kit later on...

About to pull the trigger on selling it all and I know I go back and forth a lot but at this point it is a matter of actually getting the car running or having to fire sale it in November and hating everything.
I'm starting the bid at $5. I have $5

Get the 2V running and have a rare car in Europe.
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Old 09-01-2017, 03:39 PM   #857
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I dunno man I keep coming back to the "I'm going to be 90% of the way there in December and be ****ed".
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Old 09-04-2017, 02:50 PM   #858
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Well after that last self loathing post when I had a lot to drink I've been back at it. If I don't get replacement engine in by the end of next week (I have all week off and kid will be in school again) I'm going to sell it as a roller.

Not even sure what I'd as for it as a roller... probably $3500 OBO and sell the 4V stuff and blower for another $3k. Sounds good in theory but all the $6k cars are either bone stock 2V automatics or high mileage Cobras or something some boy racer beat the **** out of. Mine has 34k miles and zero rust and just needs an engine swap now.
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Old 09-04-2017, 04:17 PM   #859
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Scotty quit banging your head over this and do the swap you know enough and this should be baby steps for you. You have invested to much time into this your almost there just finish it or you'll regret it later.


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Old 09-04-2017, 04:59 PM   #860
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Scotty quit banging your head over this and do the swap you know enough and this should be baby steps for you. You have invested to much time into this your almost there just finish it or you'll regret it later.


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That's my thought.
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