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2000 Steeda Mustang GT #48 build thread

121K views 1K replies 51 participants last post by  scottydsntknow 
#1 ·
Brought it home today finally. Anyone not following my other thread, I only paid $5500 for 34k original miles because it has a blown motor. Looking for replacement motors already and found a ton of real low mile Vic engines locally. Car is not perfect... Little nitpcky things that drive me bonkers that I will get on immediately.

Honestly... Not really much to do after I swap the motor out and cosmetic stuff. I'll list the build sheet when I get on a computer.

Pics!
 

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#795 ·
Figured I might as well get the Steeda IRS brace while its all apart and I'm going to get the RP fluid change kit and Lube Locker gasket from LMR as soon as I hear back from them about the 6% discount code they have for military.

Got the Steeda Brace from Jegs with my mil discount after the mil discount code from AM was no longer working. Also prefer to support Jegs vs AM tbth...
 
#796 ·
LMR responds right back with mil discount code, $5 off the fluid change/lube locker gasket setup they sell which is top notch and REQUIRED to use a gasket like that for the IRS.

And I'm honestly STILL waffling back and forth if I want to sell the blower I have or not... Either the 4V all motor or a cammed 2V with a 4V bottom all motor is going to be around 320 to the wheels. Or if not just keep the blower in a box somewhere for later on down the road.

With a conservative tune I'm going to want to run I only want about 400 to the wheels, maybe 425 but I can't be stupid and push it, want the car reliable over there.
 
#797 ·
I guess that it will ultimately be determined by whether the engine gets built as a 2V or a 4V, since you only have the 4V mounting bracket now.

Personally, I would box up all of the blower related parts, and keep them for a while. Unless you need the money right now. That way you will still have the option to install it later on if you want.
I would want the car to be as reliable as possible as well. And you don't want to get in too much trouble over there... Ever seen that TV show "Locked Up Abroad"? :lol:
 
#798 ·
Lol yeah well I've been to some sketch *** places flying so...

It'll be 4V just because I already have all those parts and I can't wait anymore, plus in the long run that's better IMO. One time buy on the heads and cams, I'll never outgrow these. I really should degree them but that's like another $500+ worth of tools I'll use once... I'll probably just line it up on the marks and go.
 
#799 ·
I felt the same way with degreeing my cam. So I drew one up in autocad and just printed one on a regular printer paper and sandwiched it between two pieces of plexiglass. And then welded a nut to the balancer bolt to attach it to the crank. It was a bit janky but worth the 20$ instead of 500$ if you really are interested in it I could email you the file


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#800 · (Edited)
Lol the degree wheel isn't the expensive part its the cam holder tools and the TFS degree kit and the cloyes gears etc... etc...
 
#802 ·
Pushrods have almost 0 slop in the timing chain, its just one short chain and 2 gears right next to each other. That said, the factory marks work and work well and there are a metric assload of terminators and machs and 99/01 Cobras running around with all sorts of stuff done to them on the original undegreed cams. Honestly I'm probably just going to drop it in as is with the Mach style cams, they are in, everything is torqued, they are low mileage... etc...

I just need to get this damn thing running, this IRS has sucked up way too much time already. Have everything coming in by wednesday that I need, I have inspected every single other part of it to make sure its all in good shape. I'll do the rotors/pads for it when I get it back on the ground.
 
#811 ·
Agreed, I will have to learn to do it eventually unless MHS or Cushman or someone will degree 4V cams like they do with 2V cams but not sure if they do. I should probably ask...
 
#806 · (Edited)
Yes.
But, the keyway slot on the crankshaft may not be cut precisely on TDC like the fixture that they are using to degree the cams. There can be manufacturing differences between the 100's of thousands of crankshafts that were manufactured over the years. Not to mention differences in machining done to the block and cylinder heads.
I know that this seems like it is "splitting hairs", but to do a proper "blueprint" on the engine, you need to have the assembled engine to correctly degree the cams.
I suppose that, considering that there is a long chain that drives a short chain on a 4V, it is likely that there will be some variation in the exact cam timing specifications no matter how the degreeing is done.
 
#808 ·
Lol.
Probably.
But I will bet you that any engine builder worth a crap would agree with me.

That kind of attention to detail is more important on a NA engine than on a blown engine. Nowadays, if you want more power, you just have to throw a lot of boost at it.
It wasn't always that easy to go fast...
 
#809 ·
NHRA Pro Stock cars are naturally aspirated. They are 500cid engines pushing about 1500hp if I remember correctly. 200 plus mph in 6 sec in the quarter mile.

Power can be made without boost or nitrous, you just can't drive it to the grocery store. Lol

Dad had a Ford Street Rod in the shop years ago that made 900hp on pump gas. This was printed on the engine builder's spec sheet for the show circuit info.

Unfortunately that old Ford cost as much as some houses. The engine was balanced and blue printed... etc etc.

I wonder if 500 naturally aspirated hp can be pull out of a 2v 4.6? In theory it's possible, but I doubt it would stay together.
 
#815 · (Edited)
And both the Pro Stock ET and speed world records are held by Mustangs! :dance:

Pro Stock engine builders are the absolute pinnacle of high performance engine building. They do things to engines that are almost mythical! I don't think that you will ever see a used
Pro Stock engine, that is still competitive, sold on the open market. They probably rarely, if ever, are sold privately. That is the most secretive race class that you will ever see.
Hall of famer Bob Glidden used to do all of his own engine building. And his pit crew was comprised of family members. Nobody, outside of his family, ever had any knowledge of what was done to his engines. He crashed his car one time. It rolled over several times, tossing parts along the track as it went. When it finally came to a stop, Bob jumped out from the wreckage, and immediately took off his jacket and covered up the intake manifold with it, before anyone could take a picture of it.
That's how serious those guys are about keeping the engine mods a secret.

Of course you can get 500 hp out of a 4.6. It's going to be expensive to build and expensive to run on race gas. Or hell, why not go big and run it on alcohol! And I mean straight alcohol.
Really, the only benefit to building a naturally aspirated engine would be for a road race or autocross car, where big horsepower is not as important as keeping the car as light as possible.
 
#812 ·
Just emailed Cushman and MHS... We'll see if they do 4V degreeing.

In other news, still waiting on parts. Stuff all gets here Wednesday from FTBR/LMR/Steeda and here we go finally... jesus H christ this has taken way too long with all the parts...
 
#813 ·
Cushman got right back, says 4V has way too much going on to do a remote degree... Assume MHS will be the same response.

Probably just going to leave the cams that are in the engine in there now. Factory installed, same as the Mach, just need to get it running.
 
#816 ·
Yeah, you could spend a lot of time and money fixing the factory defects in the timing components on those engines, to try and get it perfect.
And to what end?
If you install the supercharger, you can still make enough power with it to blow up the engine.
Rap is actually sort of right, there really isn't any reason to over think this. Especially at the power level that we are talking about.
I think that it will run just fine at the factory setting, even without boost. It should run exactly like a 4V! Lol
Just put it together so you can load it onto a Spanish Galleon, or whatever they use to move cars over the ocean nowadays. :blink:
 
#814 ·
In positive news, got some Steeda parts for Steeda car.

Got from Jegs, drop shipped directly from Steeda, 10% mil discount on Jegs, free shipping and badass powder coat job on it.

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#817 ·
Well for power off boost lol. But it's all good. Also last part finally just got here...

Tomorrow... Omg...

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#818 · (Edited)
Weekend got shot in the ***... grandmother is really sick, probably not going to last much longer, had to take one of my dogs back to his breeder this weekend :( :( :( because we can't take him to Europe with us and today the whole day was putting the IRS back together and being completely OCD about it.

Had a few tool issues and the bolts for the front subframe were wrong because Prothane is not the same size as FTBR so trip to the parts store tomorrow and up she goes tomorrow or Tuesday evening. Also have to borrow a torque wrench from work that'll do 184ft lbs for the LCA bolts.

All the FTBR stuff fits like a GLOVE tho, those guys know their ****.
 

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#820 ·
Been a long time coming honestly, she's finally just... failing. She's 97 in November.

Anyway, no hardware stores have more 10.9 bolts that I need so Fastenal order again. $8 shipping for 2 bolts lol. This damn IRS has taken up way too much time... also me not having the motivation to work on it for a long time... nothing like the military saying you have to be out of your house in December to motivate you tho lol.

Started to prep the motor and the front of the car in the meantime while I wait and touching up the bare metal spots on the roof since I have a friend from work who will vinyl wrap it for free since I already have the vinyl.
 
#822 ·
Nah gloss. Not a fan of matte/satin. Got a good sheet of 3M vinyl from the evilbays.
 
#826 ·
Am I the only one who feels that Scotty is going to have the car that we all just sit back and drool over? I know when it's done, it'll be one everybody wants.
 
#828 ·
Good motivation for me I guess lol. I'm just starting to get really worried I won't get it done. Then again, I officially am pushed back to leaving 2nd week in January so I have a little more time.

Need to get updated pics. IRS is hanging and car just needs a downjack and push back once I clean out the back of the garage. After that it is a "hopefully" simple engine swap. **** like wrapping the roof in black vinyl and any cosmetics etc... can wait.
 
#829 ·
Almost done with IRS... grandmother in hospital plus outprocessing plus the surge going on at work... holy eff...

I will say that getting the IRS front subframe bolts in... holy ****ing ****... The whole thing is just one giant huge giant crank pain omgwtfbbqx1000.... BUT... now that I've done it once I could probably do it all again way faster.

Other thing is I am getting a LOT of advice from friends and family to sell this thing and get it off my plate... I dunno... just finishing up the IRS and literally being just an engine swap away... I dunno. Closer this thing gets the more its... looming...
 
#830 ·
Best wishes to your Grandma.

Glad to hear the rear is almost finished.
As I said before, if this project is going to add too much stress at this point in your life, it is probably best to sell it and focus on the more important things.
I would still like to see you finish the car, and I thought that your original plan to keep working until the deadline was a good one. As that deadline grows closer, you need to reassess and decide if you are going to have enough time, with everything else that you have going on, to swap out the engines, and do the dozens of other "little" time consuming things.
Family should always come first. That should weigh heavily in whatever that you decide to do.
 
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