Brought it home today finally. Anyone not following my other thread, I only paid $5500 for 34k original miles because it has a blown motor. Looking for replacement motors already and found a ton of real low mile Vic engines locally. Car is not perfect... Little nitpcky things that drive me bonkers that I will get on immediately.
Honestly... Not really much to do after I swap the motor out and cosmetic stuff. I'll list the build sheet when I get on a computer.
I think agree about the alarm. Who knows how it is out there as far as thieves go lol. I’m not so sure I’d disable PATS. Couldn’t insurance use that to get out of paying a claim if it’s been disabled?
I'll install a kill switch for the fuel if PATS is disabled. This is getting ahead of myself to getting it able to take a tune and start. Going to pull the computer out to make sure there is no chip on it and then rip into the alarm. About to go out there in a few minutes.
Well there was a "superchip" on the ECU... yanked that thing out and sealed the ECU back up. This is hopefully the reason that the tune was not working.
The alarm in it is an actual Ford "aftermarket" alarm. Its wired in there pretty ok and not a rats nest like I thought it would be. Going to re-connect it and hook up the battery with the horn in place stuffed with a blanket so its not crazy loud and see if the owner's manual disarm procedure works.
Ford alarm manual disable worked perfectly and tune uploaded and married my X3 to the car!
Only issue... theft light is flashing. I need to wait for James to send me a PATS disabled tune but now I know its either going to start and run properly or its going to burn the whole house down. Either way, the finish line is in sight.
Well them maybe I'll try to fire it tomorrow morning? Maybe it'll kick over I dunno lol. If not then a PATS disabled tune should. If theft light keeps flashing I'll just pull the bulb.
Well now that I'm going to have it disabled I might try to find a 03/04 Cobra cluster with similar miles to mine. I mean mine has the Steeda white faces but I'd rather have the OEM Termi TBTH.
Also found a mint set of 20k takeoff 04 Cobra rims with new tires up front and 60% tread tires out back for $600 locally. Once I know the car is running well and will be a go I'll go grab them and maybe put a new set of rear tires on. Don't really NEED to, plenty of places that sell tires in Spain lol. Will have the original Ultralites and tires shipped over in my household goods.
Lol yeah I swap immediately every car I get. MAC gauges for the 96-98 look EXACTLY like OEM Cobra tot he point ppl thought I was lying when I said it was just a GT cluster with $30 white faces. They used to make them for the 99-up but I dunno why they stopped.
But yeah once I get it all good and running (fingers crossed) I'll worry about having a good gauge cluster shipped out to me. Sure there will have to be something from a garage queen in the 30k mile range somewhere.
Last night wound up turning into a complete cluster as far as working on anything, plus I need to go by work and "grab" some thick zip ties. I'll likely be up very late tonight.
Good to hear about your alarm. Mine had a chip on it too when I bought it. I had a similar prob with communicating to my handheld. That’s all I knew back in the day. I remember getting a Superchip for my 84 Z28 haha.
Anticipation is building to an all time high! [emoji16][emoji1377][emoji1360]
Yep, she is ready to go. Got all the garbage wires ripped out, the alarm brain is tucked back up under the dash, wideband is installed into an autometer cluster bezel. Started putting the front end back together too. I'm literally just waiting for the non-PATS tune and a firewire to come in from Amazon so I can run the analog out into the X3 for datalogging. Going to bug all the wideband power/dimmer into the radio harness. That's something else I need to fix quick is the radio harness never had the right resistor installed in it to keep it from popping.
But... I don't need any of that to start it, just the PATS disabled tune. Really hoping that James can find a few minutes to update it and send it tomorrow.
Now for the bad news... there is some sort of rattling noise coming from the bellhousing and I have no idea what it is. Its pretty loud too... I'll need to get a video of it.
It does NOT change with any clutch action at all or RPM. Usually a TOB or Pilot or even input shaft will change with sound or RPM. I was freaking out at first but... does not change with RPM, does not change with clutch depressed or released... clutch grabs GREAT (backed it into garage under its own power) so I need to bang around under the car. Also need to let it get fully hot and see if the noise goes away with a hot engine.
TBTH I'm thinking it might be the separator plate because of the bellhousing adapter?
I dunno. But I know it runs, no leaks (another fun story there), guages all work and I wired it all properly it seems. Like I said I'm going to bang around under it and figure out wth. And also wire up the wideband to firewire so I can send logs to the tuner because it BARELY idles right now lol.
The leak story is I get out of the car after finally getting it to idle on its own and its peeing oil onto the ground. Killed it asap and started looking around. The oil cooler/filter to block adapter had a hairline crack where the sensor went in. Either I did it or some other person did... dunno. Lucky for me (REALLY lucky) I had a second one from a 96 Cobra engine I parted awhile ago. Changing the thing out is actually not as hard as I thought, did it in about and hour. Fired it back up and no leaks... just that damn noise.
I'm going to check for anything touching the trans, pop the dust cover off, pop the 2 bottom bolts off the plate and put a pry bar on it and go form all there.
Just extremely weird... no change with RPM, no change with clutch pedal depressed or released. Pilot or TOB would change pitch or silence themselves depending on if the clutch is up or down and if it was an input shaft it would also shut up with clutch depressed.
Separator plate. I'll have to do some creative prybaring but I'll get it. Its pressed up just slightly against a raised section on the back of the flywheel. Ideally if I can get a grinder up in there and grind on it that'll work but I think removing the starter (again) and then going to town with a pry bar just go get literally a 1/16" of clearance will do it.
Sent from my LG-LS997 using Mustang Evolution mobile app
The fun oil leak I had on very first startup was this bugger here... Either me (probably me tbth) or whoever owned the car it was on before went gorilla on the sensor. Thing was pissing oil all over.
Like I mentioned before... STUPID lucky I had another one in the shed. It was the dirty AF one which is why I used the other one but a little cleaner and wire wheel and good as new.
I really had a lot of little BS from all those engines I parted out that saved me money and time. ALL the coolant hoses and tstat housing, tons of hardware/bolts/scrounge, gaskets, energy suspension motor mounts, manifolds, alternator and a spare alternator, throttle body etc... etc...
The engine is running great though. Now beat on the plate and pull that thing out of the garage.
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