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Old 08-27-2015, 10:11 AM   #281
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Man Scotty get. This car built you have a week off lol

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Old 08-27-2015, 10:48 AM   #282
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My father is going to be over a few times this week. Old motor is coming out. I dunno I might be able to get the new one in. I have some other stuff going on too. Well see lol.





Edit: Also if I get that transfer to WA or CA I'm going to have to make sure its somewhat drivable in 3 or 4 months lol so that should light a fire if nothing else will.
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Old 08-29-2015, 03:14 PM   #283
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Out in the garage now just cleaning some stuff up and also completely removing the headlight panel and the crash bar. I have half a mind to leave it off tbth. Main goal is to try to get this Snow meth system out and put it up on the classifieds. Will hopefully pay for a decent chunk of whatever wheels I get.

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Old 08-31-2015, 06:24 PM   #284
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Finally down to just the front clip and the motor. Plan is to pull this mofo on Friday.

Reference pic for blower size.

Also really appreciating how easy it is to work on an engine that doesn't have bolts all corroded to hell. So nice.

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Old 08-31-2015, 08:39 PM   #285
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You should polish that blowa while its out.
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Old 08-31-2015, 08:52 PM   #286
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I was thinking of at least cleaning and painting it.

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Old 08-31-2015, 09:03 PM   #287
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I was thinking of at least cleaning and painting it.

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powder coat it silver
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Old 08-31-2015, 11:24 PM   #288
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AM labor day sale on the pi intake

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Old 08-31-2015, 11:32 PM   #289
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Eh, its $295 normally. I should have bought it before they bumped it from the $215 it was a few months ago. Blah.

Still debating on what intake to go with. And what rims... and a few other things... I'm bad at this lol.
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Old 08-31-2015, 11:41 PM   #290
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powder coat it silver
I'm just going to take some cleaner and a brush to it.


In other news... apparently the earlier style Novi inlet tubes were secured to the blower with a set screw and some RTV. I'm not sure about re-doing it that way but with the blower so close to the front of the motor I might have to. I don't think a power pipe would fit.



Yet another "small" item to think about. I think I will have to re-use this piece honestly as it JUST clears the radiator when installed on the Novi. Although I'd really rather not. I may grab a 90 degree coupler and see what's what tho.
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Old 09-01-2015, 05:29 AM   #291
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Dang Scotty, it may be beneficial to you to do the eddy intake and put a sheet metal plenum on there. It would definitely make sure you don't loose any boost and may be a better solution. You would have to rethink the inlet to the plenum though. Couldn't be much more than a 90* bend to the TB and plenum


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Old 09-01-2015, 12:00 PM   #292
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No that is the intake tube to the SUPERCHARGER... I think I am going to order a 90 degree coupler and see how close it is.

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Old 09-01-2015, 12:59 PM   #293
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Yea crap. I see that now. It was early and I wasn't coherent yet.


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Old 09-01-2015, 03:48 PM   #294
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I'm still not coherent... also has not been the best day...

Anyway as far as the intake. A new PI intake and plenum and TB is going to be in the $550 range. The MHS prepped Eddy intake with a TB tacked on is $950. Not sure if I want to spend the extra $400 honestly and I may even just get a PI intake and keep the stock TB/Plenum. They will not be a restriction until the higher RPM range and at that point the Novi will be cramming so much air through them it won't matter.

The PI intake and smaller TB/Plenum will also give me a better bottom end out of boost so I very well may be going this route and then I'll start looking at building a 2V for this Novi later on.

I've also had a few ppl tell me to sell both motors, part the Novi and the intercooler and put all that $$$ towards a Coyote. I can't say I haven't given serious thought to how much I could get for all my parts and how much it would be to get a $2500 F150 Coyote into the car.
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Old 09-01-2015, 04:10 PM   #295
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Find a GT to molest... Don't ruin the Steeda!

I think that the PI manifold will be fine for the horsepower that you will be at.
Just put that inlet tube back on and goop it up with silicone. It was good enough to blow up the last engine, I'm sure it will be fine.
Just focus on getting it running with the parts that you already have. You can worry about all of the cosmetic stuff once you have a solid running car.
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Old 09-01-2015, 05:18 PM   #296
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Yep, that's what I am thinking. I have almost all the parts to get it running as it sits right now. I'm not a huge fan of that inlet tube but it is what it is. That part where it bends up clears the radiator hose and it is low profile to clear the radiator itself. Also I just need a few straight pieces of pipe to delete the draw thru crap and the included elbow actually bolts to the inner fender to hold it in place and that's pretty cool.
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Old 09-01-2015, 07:45 PM   #297
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I'm also still having a raging internal debate on the rims again. I know I probably should get replica wheels and if I ever want 18s for a show or looks or whatever I can re-finish the actual original Konig Villians that came with this thing and put them on. I also know the 17s are going be superior performance wise in every aspect and I'm going to hook way better with a 315 Mickey than I am with a 275/285 Toyo/Nitto or even a 275 Mickey
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Old 09-01-2015, 08:49 PM   #298
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You sure do know how to sweat the small stuff sir 😅
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Old 09-01-2015, 08:56 PM   #299
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Yep, no matter that I have a motor pull to get to lmao. I would not consider what wheels/tires to put on a 400whp car "small" tho... not exactly.
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Old 09-01-2015, 09:00 PM   #300
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Well I just mean right now that seems less important to getting it on the road. I hear you though.

Wheels can make a car. I know you are trying to keep it true to its original form as much as possible but I don't think anyone will fault you for picking any wheels that benefit the look and or function of the car over keeping it true to its original build sheet.
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Old 09-01-2015, 09:10 PM   #301
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It would be less important if the chrome Steeda wheels were not OOP with only 2 or 3 sets left in the warehouse. Then I'd just decide in the spring or something.
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Old 09-01-2015, 09:30 PM   #302
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I'm also still having a raging internal debate on the rims again. I know I probably should get replica wheels and if I ever want 18s for a show or looks or whatever I can re-finish the actual original Konig Villians that came with this thing and put them on. I also know the 17s are going be superior performance wise in every aspect and I'm going to hook way better with a 315 Mickey than I am with a 275/285 Toyo/Nitto or even a 275 Mickey

I'm a fan of the bullitts. I have the 17x9/10.5 set in anthracite, but I think the black looks great on a silver car.

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Old 09-01-2015, 09:53 PM   #303
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Oooo I'm saving that pic. I had 17" and then 18" Bullitts on my last car. Blue 98GT with Anthracite. But that looks damn amazing. Definitely leaning towards a black rim, be it a Bullitt or FR500.

Yeah lowered with a NE the 17s do look a lot better. I love the big dish out back too.
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Old 09-01-2015, 10:19 PM   #304
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I used to have 18x9/10 black Saleens, and although I thought they looked good, I think these mustangs look "sleeker" with 17s, if that makes sense. And that's as long as it's lowered, of course. I sold them and put the stock 17x8 bullitts back on, but once you go meat, your wallet will get beat. Got the 17x9/10.5s with the Mickeys and will never go back.


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Old 09-01-2015, 10:21 PM   #305
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Yeah only thing I don't like is the AM center caps don't let you use "OEM" caps but anything is modifiable.
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Old 09-01-2015, 10:25 PM   #306
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I didn't go through AM. Went through a place in SoCal that I found on eBay. Worked out a deal if I paid cash and picked them up. The OEM center caps are looking good


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Old 09-01-2015, 10:41 PM   #307
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2000 Steeda Mustang GT #48 build thread

Scotty here's some food for thought pics

2 silver cars with black fr's and my car with chrome fr's

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And this is one of my college professors and someone I found that he looks like, just incase you need a good laugh Click image for larger version

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Old 09-01-2015, 11:54 PM   #308
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I didn't go through AM. Went through a place in SoCal that I found on eBay. Worked out a deal if I paid cash and picked them up. The OEM center caps are looking good


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Sounds like AFS.

edit:

Yep

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AFS-WHEELS-F...item4d3694f909

Would be a wash as far as cost between those and buying the Mickeys separately and getting them mounted locally vs getting the AM ready to bolt on set. I forgot about AFS tbth.
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Old 09-02-2015, 12:30 AM   #309
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It was actually from a place in Grand Terrace in the Riverside area. I don't remember seeing AFS, but that would've been a much easier drive.

I also worked out a deal the same way for the Mickeys. Went to a place in Long Beach for those.

I was actually on the wait list with AM but they were out of the Mickeys. I've ordered stuff from them and will continue to do so, but I guess you could say it was first come first serve. I ended up with a great deal but I had to work for it.


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Old 09-02-2015, 12:33 AM   #310
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But yeah, going through AM for the set isn't a bad idea at all, but I'd be worried about the center cap issue. I'm a big fan of the OEM ones.


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Old 09-02-2015, 07:06 AM   #311
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Well I have a set of Steeda ones that you just can't get anywhere anymore and I'm not a fan of pulling them apart to modify them for AM rims.

Then again, it would not be that hard to get a Steeda decal made to put on a blank 2.5" AM center cap so its no biggie. I've had AFS rims before and I had to send 2 back because they were blems, they are chinese replica wheels. I had to do the same with one of the AM rims I got last time too so it is what it is. AFS did take care of me although it was like a week turnaround vs 2 days from AM but the important thing is I did get good replacements at no cost to me.
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Old 09-02-2015, 09:42 AM   #312
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I'd keep the steedas- you never know, but I do like the idea of having steeda decals made for the center caps. Should give the new wheels a custom look.

Speaking of Chinese-made wheels, are there any good wheel manufacturers in the states? I like to keep business local if I can.


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Old 09-02-2015, 09:45 AM   #313
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Well yeah there are plenty but you pay for it. I can't see paying $$$$ for street rims when they are going to get chipped and nicked which is why I'm really not keen on paying out the *** for the Steedas either. Car is going to be driven a LOT during the spring/summer/fall when I get it on the road. And I am keeping the original wheels regardless of what I do.
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Old 09-02-2015, 03:22 PM   #314
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I thought my Mach looked good with bullitt wheels. They really fit the newedge nicely. I'm warming up to the deep dish look out back. I really prefer the faces to be more equal. My opinion, but I would prefer the anthracite bullitts on your Steeda. I agree about he Steeda center caps - dont kill them lol. Coming along Scotty


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Old 09-02-2015, 03:29 PM   #315
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Here's the old girl with the 18" Anthtracite Bullitts. This damn car turned heads everywhere it went. I really regret selling it sometimes but I sold it to a 30-something year old enthusiast from another forum and I get updates on it from time to time and its being appreciated and enjoyed where this low mileage Steeda was just sitting in some asshat's driveway all winter getting snowed on.



Anyway, yeah I might go with that same wheel/tire setup except 17s. Although that 18" setup was like $1100 installed because I caught a sale on BFGs and got them for $250 off what they normally sell for. Also they were just 235/45/18 and 275/40/18 up front so they weren't as much monies.
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