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2000 Steeda Mustang GT #48 build thread

121K views 1K replies 51 participants last post by  scottydsntknow 
#1 ·
Brought it home today finally. Anyone not following my other thread, I only paid $5500 for 34k original miles because it has a blown motor. Looking for replacement motors already and found a ton of real low mile Vic engines locally. Car is not perfect... Little nitpcky things that drive me bonkers that I will get on immediately.

Honestly... Not really much to do after I swap the motor out and cosmetic stuff. I'll list the build sheet when I get on a computer.

Pics!
 

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#6 ·
Nice. This will turn out Awesome. I'm hoping to find my deal this summer for mustang #2, we will see.

Sent from my LG-LS980 using Mustang Evolution mobile app
 
#11 · (Edited)
Now, onto all the "issues" I have found with the car. Obviously besides the blown motor:

1- Pile of **** Flowtech X pipe. This pipe was the first pipe I ever bought when I got into mustangs before I knew any better. It goes BELOW the front of the trans not only getting things hot as **** but ground clearance problems... Will be getting replaced probably with a UPR stainless X. Yeah it is corroded, the rest of the underside of the car is mint as is the Bassanni catback.



2- God effing dammit DIY non-full length subframes. Again, no biggie and actually saves me from going out to get full lengths for a little while. I can remove these easy enough with the car on a lift and a grinder.


3- The seller told me this was the "SCT Tuner". Lol. Well that wire looks like a wire to a piggyback chip which I will have to dig into. Controller is to the snow meth kit which I will be removing and selling.



4-Top of the track on the triangle area of the door is broken. Window comes up real far and you have to stop it manually at a certain spot. Glass rattles if it is down when I close the door. Will have to pull the door panel and see wth. Also will have to replace that piece when I get around to it.



5-Only real "blemish" I can find in the interior that isn't like a missing clip or something. Not really going to worry about it. Maybe if I get some SEM interior dye or something I will go over it...



6-Wheels are going to need blasted/coated. Now that I don't have to immediately do subframes, I will take that $400 and have that done instead or I might just leave it... Does need new tires soon, it has 285/35/18 Nitto 555s on all 4 corners. I imagine this car will handle very well even though the 4 link is still in place...



There is a little surface crud on the OEM A arms and a little road crud on some other parts of the car but it is cleaner than my 98 and that was CLEAN. There is zero rust around the gas tank on this car like my 98 had and the interior is not quite the 10/10 the seller said but its a solid 9 easy.

Paint... is VERY good. Has the peeling by the hood/fender gap that they all get and a little flaking where it looks like one of the big Bassanni tailpipes was touching but besides that it is going to shine up like a gem.

Engine bay... this thing is CLEAN. Looks like a showroom new engine bay TBTH.

Overall, very happy with this purchase. I can get a Vic motor for $500 with 30-40k on it which is the route I am going. Will look for a 3V "aluminator" block down the road to start a build with.

Let me know if you guys think of anything else.
 
#14 ·
Well, I am going in for a knee scope on thursday, that is on reason I wanted to get this thing right the hell now. Then I am off work from 15-30 days but all the doctors say I'll be up and walking like normal in like a week. Trying to get the new motor before then too, I've got a 2005 Grand Marquis motor with 38k for $525 about 25 miles from my house.

So I might just tinker with the little BS while it sits in the garage for a month while I heal up and then take 2 or 3 weekends in June to knock out the motor swap and get it back on the road. Definitely needs to get done soon though. I'm itching to drive this thing.

Also researching who seems to be the current best remote tuner for a supercharged 2V. Need a startup tune and then datalog to dial it in.
 
#19 ·
I would get in touch with "tuning by James" go to his site which is tuning by James then it has a link to email him. I believe he will be able to do it for you. He seems very knowledgeable and if you research his stuff he is good. He will data log and dial it in that way for you. At least he would be worth a shot. He uses SCT programmers, he sells them for $399, tunes are $75. I'm not sure of the cost for updated tunes but he basically told me he can get done Whatever needs to be done remotely. Anyway just thought I would mention him.

Sent from my LG-LS980 using Mustang Evolution mobile app
 
#16 ·
I'm guessing since the original hose couplers are dry rotted that the pipe was popping off under boost. Will be replacing all of them.

Sent from my LG-D801 using Mustang Evolution mobile app
 
#17 ·
Congrats my brother. At least in the end, we will all have a lesson in how it should be done and the right way. Beautiful car bro. Get that swap done so we can see some rolling vids.
 
#18 ·
Thanks I appreciate it. I'm hopefully going to get to the wrecker on Monday. Bastards are only open till 5 and I get out of work at 4 and they are closed weekends... grr...


Oh, and here is a REALLY bad copy of the build sheet. The seller gave it to me basically in this shape and I immediately thought of the Neil Diamond "authentic" autographed litho from Saving Silverman lol. However, I called Steeda and verified the VIN on the car and it is actually accurate. Need to get ahold of them and get a fresh copy.





So yeah, this was a $40k car in 2000... crazy.
 
#20 ·
Yeah I've heard of him before. I'm going to get all the parts on hand and then figure out a day when my father can come over and help me yank the motor out.


My driveway is on a little bit of a hill and it would be easier to do it at his house but he is 20 min away and I don't want to try to milk this car over there. Plus having it at my house means I can be up until all hours on my time off from my knee scope getting all the little stupid stuff taken care of. We'll see.
 
#21 ·
Wow, just saw this thread in the 99-04 GT section.
Great find! 10x better than that Mach 1 you were looking at.

So glad we have a couple awesome builds going on within the forum.
 
#24 ·
Love the color. Looks like it's in great shape. Good find! I am not familiar with Steeda GT's. Were the internals in the 2v's upgraded along with the Novi?

@azurebluemach
Looking at the posted build sheet I would think not. I don't believe too many aftermarket builders like Steeda/Roush were doing forged internals or additions like that. Most just ran the stock 2V with a supercharger running low boost.

I could be wrong though...Steeda cars are definitely a rare find so who knows what actually was done to them. I'm sure Scotty will find out to be sure.
 
#26 ·
No forged motor, Steeda did it just like Roush/Saleen except they used a Centrifugal blower instead. And they used the Novi which is huge brownie points just because. The 2000 can move a LOT of air. I will not have to upgrade the blower when/if I eventually put in a built motor.


Like I said, plan is a stock low mileage 2V and keep the boost down at first and just enjoy it for the summer/fall/until salt is on the roads.
 
#28 · (Edited)
Nah, I know that I'm going to set it to around 425whp and call it a day when I get it a new heart. I'm assuming that this is a car that is going to get me kicked out of Atco until I cage it tho. Will find out this summer hopefully. No cage+11s=bye.


Also.. after the entire afternoon the disaster that was my garage is now organized, stacked and I somehow found enough room in there and my shed to fit a car and all my crap.








 
#29 ·
Looks like you will have enough room if you get a little creative.

Sent from my LG-LS980 using Mustang Evolution mobile app
 
#34 · (Edited)
I PM'd TJ@Steeda today to see about getting a fresh copy of the build sheet. Hopefully he gets back to me with some good news.


Also looking at mid-pipes today for this thing to replace the POS pipe on here. Going to go catted and would prefer stainless. The UPR catted is aluminized and $330 shipped. VRS (the company that makes the UPR pipes), does the catted pipe in stainless for $460 shipped.


Currently debating on if I really need to spend the extra coin... I had a BBK aluminized pipe on the 98 (the PO did) and I never drove the car in any bad weather and the thing still looked new after 2 years of me having it and I think it was on the car since before 2010 soo...
 
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