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Old 06-17-2015, 01:53 AM   #71
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Quote:
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Adjustable clutch cable ftl...

Been working like a champ since 2012 :p

In case there are others out there (like me) that believe there is more than just one part available for a particular application... I have a FRPP adjustable cable and the two reasons why I want the MM clutch cable & firewall kit is because I want a firewall adjuster and I have a MM clutch pedal height adjuster and I think the MM quadrant might work better with it...not because there is a prob with my adjustable cable.




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Old 06-17-2015, 06:17 AM   #72
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Too many bad experiences with non OEM cables here. I mean FRPP is going to be better than a rando parts store cable or SR... anyway if its working its working.

Would not recommend to anyone here to buy anything but OEM.
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Old 06-17-2015, 03:24 PM   #73
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Are your guys' pedals smooth as silk all the time? If your going 60/70mph and just feel the clutch pedal, does it have any vibration whatsoever? You both have had exedy clutches right? Do you still have your sn95 Scott?


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Old 06-17-2015, 04:53 PM   #74
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I have another one. My clutch pedal was always smooth tho.

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Old 06-17-2015, 05:07 PM   #75
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Why won't my Maximum Motorsports firewall adjuster fit?

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Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
I have another one. My clutch pedal was always smooth tho.

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Even when freshly installed?


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Old 06-17-2015, 05:49 PM   #76
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Yes

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Old 06-17-2015, 05:50 PM   #77
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None of your fingers on the clutch should have been off even a bit.

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Old 06-17-2015, 06:47 PM   #78
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None of your fingers on the clutch should have been off even a bit.

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Beginning to think exedy had a bad batch of pressure plates or their quality is starting to go down


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Old 06-17-2015, 07:16 PM   #79
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Well at least with this one it wasn't so obviously off that you could sit the tob or a flat piece of metal against the fingers and literally wiggle it side to side. This new one felt sturdy. The only way u could tell there was a bit of gap was by laying under it and putting either the tob or I used the flat round end of a steel grinder and shine a flashlight from up above. Idk how many people actually check the pressure plate like this or at all before just throwing all together but it wasn't honestly bad. Feel like I've been beating the **** out of a dead horse but geez I must have some bad luck lol. I'm gonna try messing with the adjuster when I get home. I was noticing last night wen I drove that if I barely push the pedal a bit further the vibration totally stops. If not, it's lovrsble and I'm just gonna accept it and hope it doesn't get awful in the higher rpms. Just don't want to get almost done with the breakin and have to restart again lol


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Old 06-17-2015, 09:27 PM   #80
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Yes

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Same for me too


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Old 06-17-2015, 10:56 PM   #81
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I've still got my 400 in the box downstairs. Going to go check on it tomorrow so if there was a bad batch I know now and can get it exchanged.
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Old 06-17-2015, 11:44 PM   #82
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I've still got my 400 in the box downstairs. Going to go check on it tomorrow so if there was a bad batch I know now and can get it exchanged.

Let me know what you find out! ****ers need to get their **** figured out haha as Long as u save yourself from what I'm going through


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Old 06-19-2015, 04:11 PM   #83
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Well, the pedal is getting worse for sure. when freshly installed and adjusted the pedal still had the vibration, but you couldn't hear the pedal shake you could only feel it. After driving it last night it must be vibrating harder because I could hear the pedal shake again. I took a video of it but for some reason YouTube isn't uploading it so I can't show you guys.

I just got off the phone with American muscle. They said they haven't gotten any complaints at least for the last 3 months about a pedal vibration problem. I asked if they have sold a lot of the Exedy mach 400 clutch kits and he said he has sold a whole bunch and again, no complaints.

So you should be in the clear Scott. As for me, either I have extremely bad luck to get 2 bad pressure plates In a row or there is another problem.

I've been talking with a buddy of mine that works at a ford dealership as a mechanic, he is convinced still that it is the flywheels surface being. Improperly machined and having high spots or ridges and not completely even. He says that he thinks the reason the new pressure plate bolted up and looked a lot smoother is because the old one has been heat cycled and was in operation causing the pressure plate/fingers to wrap and match the flywheel. He thinks that is why I'm noticing it getting worse with this new one that was initially decent. Makes sense to me.


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Old 06-19-2015, 04:23 PM   #84
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Managed to upload a video to a different site.

Here it is: https://vid.me/NncC


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Old 06-19-2015, 09:08 PM   #85
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Managed to upload a video to a different site.

Here it is: https://vid.me/NncC


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Man, that would get annoying. Your mechanic friend sounds like he may be onto something but this is not my area of expertise at all i leave it to the pros.

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Old 06-19-2015, 09:17 PM   #86
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I would have replaced everything. New flywheel, COMPLETE new clutch and OEM TOB and see what that does.


What is happening with your should not be happening. I'll go check out my clutch tomorrow and see whatup.
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Old 06-20-2015, 01:18 AM   #87
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Why won't my Maximum Motorsports firewall adjuster fit?

Ok just discovered a new symptom. I have been noticing the vibration gets much worse when everything is warmed up. Here is the video I took last night after driving for awhile. Stopped and in neutral

(Warmed up)
https://vid.me/NncC

Ok now, both videos I rev up to 2k, hold it for a second, and then rev up to 3k. Here is the same rev when everything is cold.

(Cold)
https://vid.me/x7jL

Phone is right down by the pedal in both videos. What do you guys think this means? I'm thinking this symptoms points to the flywheel not the pressure plate. Or am I wrong?




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Old 06-20-2015, 10:58 AM   #88
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New flywheel, new clutch and you'll be cured. I know its pricey and maybe you can get a replacement clutch from Exedy free of charge... but you'll keep driving yourself nuts until you just fix it right.
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Old 06-20-2015, 11:08 AM   #89
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New flywheel, new clutch and you'll be cured. I know its pricey and maybe you can get a replacement clutch from Exedy free of charge... but you'll keep driving yourself nuts until you just fix it right.

That's what in gonna do. I think I can get a replacement flywheel from napa for 90$. Is that good? And Idk if I can get exedy to send me another, I'm already 500$ deep just in clutch kits. They are suppose to reimburse me for the first kit if they find out the fingers are bent... Do you think this new pressure plate and clutch I have is ruined?? Has 100 miles on it, and the vibration hasn't been bad on this one compared to the other.

I'm thinking it's the flywheel, I'll order one and then bolt the pressure plate up to it and see if the fingers still sit bad. If they do, I'll buy a new clutch kit. I know the right thing to do is do the flywheel and them buy a new 3rd clutch kit but damn, I'm a poor kid that just got out of college lol... But if it needs to be done, it needs to be done. I Think it's the flywheel if heat effects the vibration for sure, don't you?


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Old 06-20-2015, 11:12 AM   #90
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Yes and if you got this one resurfaced once and then resurfaced again and its still vibrating with two different clutches... yeah...

I dunno about a Napa one for $90. I paid $175 shipped for a 6 bolt nodular iron replacement one and I did not find a better price than that but that was for an 11" 6 bolt.
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Old 06-20-2015, 11:20 AM   #91
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Yes and if you got this one resurfaced once and then resurfaced again and its still vibrating with two different clutches... yeah...

I dunno about a Napa one for $90. I paid $175 shipped for a 6 bolt nodular iron replacement one and I did not find a better price than that but that was for an 11" 6 bolt.

I'm for sure getting a new flywheel, I'm talking about do you think I need to get another clutch kit if this one only has 100 miles? Think it destroyed? And I've had the flywheel only resurfaced once... For free... Lol I'm gonna bet there was a good reason he didn't make me pay...


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Old 06-20-2015, 09:41 PM   #92
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You'd need a new friction disk at least, at least IMO. First 500 miles is critical for break in. If you've been having issues with the flywheel you likely have some uneven wear on the disc.


I always just buy a new flywheel. Cheap insurance and even a good shop resurfacing it can have issues with it. Many shops won't even do it anymore and just tell you to buy new.


If you need a 6 bolt 11" flywheel let me know and I can get you in touch with the shop I got mine from since FRPP discontinued theirs. I forget if I already did that... I know I got someone asking me for that info lol. I'm tired...


edit: Also if I didn't already mention it, if you are a 99/00 car just get a takeoff Coyote flywheel. Its the same weight and the 8 bolt pattern matches the 99/00 8 bolt cast cranks. All you have to do is get a set of $14 dowel pins because the coyote pins are not tapered. Takes 5 minutes to punch out the old ones and tap in the new ones.


This is only if you are a 99/00 car tho... or forged 8 bolt crank.
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Old 06-21-2015, 12:45 AM   #93
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You'd need a new friction disk at least, at least IMO. First 500 miles is critical for break in. If you've been having issues with the flywheel you likely have some uneven wear on the disc.


I always just buy a new flywheel. Cheap insurance and even a good shop resurfacing it can have issues with it. Many shops won't even do it anymore and just tell you to buy new.


If you need a 6 bolt 11" flywheel let me know and I can get you in touch with the shop I got mine from since FRPP discontinued theirs. I forget if I already did that... I know I got someone asking me for that info lol. I'm tired...


edit: Also if I didn't already mention it, if you are a 99/00 car just get a takeoff Coyote flywheel. Its the same weight and the 8 bolt pattern matches the 99/00 8 bolt cast cranks. All you have to do is get a set of $14 dowel pins because the coyote pins are not tapered. Takes 5 minutes to punch out the old ones and tap in the new ones.


This is only if you are a 99/00 car tho... or forged 8 bolt crank.

Ok I have a 6 bolt. I found that cheap one from napa and it's on sale, could prolly get a next day delivery on it. What do you think?

http://m.napaonline.com/parts/PartsD...368_0411000263



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Old 06-21-2015, 10:51 AM   #94
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That flywheel should be fine, just make sure its for the 11" clutch as far as the dowel pin locations. The flywheels are all the same diameter but the ones for the 01-04 GT have the dowel pins closer to the edge of the flywheel.
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Old 06-25-2015, 09:29 PM   #95
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Got the new flywheel today, about to pull the transmission again and see if this new flywheel helps...Click image for larger version

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Old 06-26-2015, 11:13 AM   #96
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I really REALLY suggest you do a brand new clutch... I know it's a lot of money and you just bought the other one but they need to be broken in/mated as a single unit. That clutch you have probably has uneven wear from the other flywheel.

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Old 06-26-2015, 12:54 PM   #97
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I really REALLY suggest you do a brand new clutch... I know it's a lot of money and you just bought the other one but they need to be broken in/mated as a single unit. That clutch you have probably has uneven wear from the other flywheel.

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Yeah, I'll bolt the pressure plate up to it, if it's not perfectly even I'll get a new clutch kit but if I do I'm not going with exedy again.


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Old 06-26-2015, 11:08 PM   #98
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How many miles on the new clutch? Seems like it would be fine since it was new. Probably just need a few more miles than your typical setup to get seated properly. That's based on opinion not an experience though.


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Old 06-26-2015, 11:41 PM   #99
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How many miles on the new clutch? Seems like it would be fine since it was new. Probably just need a few more miles than your typical setup to get seated properly. That's based on opinion not an experience though.


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Just 100 miles on the new clutch/pressure plate


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Old 06-26-2015, 11:54 PM   #100
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So, got the pilot out and inspecting the inside of the crank, my girlfriends dad was over helping remove the stock pilot with a grinder awhile back on the first install... He removed and installed the new pilot so I wasn't under there at all. It looks like he got some of the crank with the grinder....Click image for larger version

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I'm not sure if this would be causing any of my issue but this really just grinds my gears... I mentioned the bread method for removing the pilot bearing and got called an idiot after a bearing puller couldn't budge it. Should have prodded more but when a experienced mechanic AND your girlfriends dad calls you an idiot you kinda just let them do their thing...

I just used the bread method myself to get this out and worked so freaking easily... But wait... I'm an idiot...Click image for larger version

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Old 06-27-2015, 10:25 AM   #101
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Lol


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Old 06-27-2015, 12:01 PM   #102
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So, got the pilot out and inspecting the inside of the crank, my girlfriends dad was over helping remove the stock pilot with a grinder awhile back on the first install... He removed and installed the new pilot so I wasn't under there at all. It looks like he got some of the crank with the grinder....Attachment 185917

I'm not sure if this would be causing any of my issue but this really just grinds my gears... I mentioned the bread method for removing the pilot bearing and got called an idiot after a bearing puller couldn't budge it. Should have prodded more but when a experienced mechanic AND your girlfriends dad calls you an idiot you kinda just let them do their thing...

I just used the bread method myself to get this out and worked so freaking easily... But wait... I'm an idiot...Attachment 185919


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That boogering of the crank shouldn't hurt it but doing THAT with a grinder and then calling YOU an idiot... lol. Is she nice enough/hot enough to make that a future father in law?

Yeah the bread method works well, so does packing it with soap or even real thick grease. 2 or 3 good whacks with a sledge and all but the most stuck ones come out. You're benefiting from that bearing being in there for like... not very long tho.
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Old 06-27-2015, 01:16 PM   #103
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Why won't my Maximum Motorsports firewall adjuster fit?

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Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
That boogering of the crank shouldn't hurt it but doing THAT with a grinder and then calling YOU an idiot... lol. Is she nice enough/hot enough to make that a future father in law?



Yeah the bread method works well, so does packing it with soap or even real thick grease. 2 or 3 good whacks with a sledge and all but the most stuck ones come out. You're benefiting from that bearing being in there for like... not very long tho.

Yeah lol she is definitely hot enough...booooobs. haha and he isn't a bad guy, actually always came across as really intelligent but I'm not a huge fan how he works on cars I guess lol. Grease in place of loctite??? Not something I'm too fond of lol. I guess that's why u do everything yourself but the old pilots back seal came off im assuming because all the times the input shaft has molested it... Lol. But I had 3 new pilots laying around from all these clutch kits, they all have the same part number and look the same so id say they are good.

On a side note, if u zoom in on this picture and look at the back of the crank, you can see where it looks like the input shaft has been rubbing on the crank. Maybe this is from the flywheel being thinner from the machining and everything sitting closer together??? Idk you tell meClick image for larger version

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Old 06-27-2015, 03:06 PM   #104
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New flywheels on, torqued, pressure plate torqued. Same fingers I marked before have the same gap between them. EXEDY PRESSURE PLATES ARE TRASH


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Old 06-27-2015, 09:48 PM   #105
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Now what would cause the vibration to be worse when hot on the pressure plate?


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