Anything after 93 was technically a "high torque mini" starter from the factory. There is no need to change it out. If you are that worried about heat soak then wrap the headers in that area but I never had a problem with longtubes soaking a 94+ factory starter.
As far as mounts. You want Energy Suspension or don't bother. They are pricier than the ones on AM/LRS/Ebay yes, there is a reason for that. They use a MUCH better compound and made in USA vs Chinese copypasta. They also perfectly mimic the stock rubber mounts as far as how high the motor sits which ensures your driveline/pinion angles will not change. Prothane and the knock offs are known to sit the engine up higher.
If you want to do all the way around you can get both motor mounts and the trans mount for $210 or so on Summit or Jegs. I had all Energy suspension in my 98 and you get a very slight increase in NVH but its not anything uncomfortable.
If you want to do just the motor mounts then they sell them with just those too for $150.
Energy suspension vs stock pic below
I will say that it is a total ***** to do the mounts with the motor still in the car and the K in place so if you are dropping the K member then now is the time to do it. I'm putting them in my 2000 as well while I have the motor out.
As far as the stage 8 locking bolts... They really aren't needed with 96+ stud setup. The nuts don't back off the studs like the bolts for the 95-down cars would. However, I did have them on my 95 and they work spectacularly well. Get the gasket on, tighten them up working from the middle out and USE A TORQUE WRENCH going to minimum spec torque. Then start putting the collars on the bolts and see how much further you need to go with each one to have the metal collar touching the primary to keep it from moving. The new versions of these bolts have 12 point collars so its very easy to do vs the old style. I may also do the stage 8s on this modular just for peace of mind TBTH. Again, easy to do while the motor is out or the K is dropped.