T56 magnum install - Mustang Evolution

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Old 06-06-2015, 07:34 PM   #1
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T56 magnum install

Hey all,
Looking for the transmission wizards here.
I have a shiny new t56 magnum for my 03 Mach 1.
-I'm going to be shortening my stock driveshaft once I have my measurement with the trans in the car.
-I have a solution for the reverse lockout solenoid
- shifter is on the trans (6 bolt, I've been told that it can be left on the trans during install, comments?)
- I have an 04 cobra bellhousing,
I will be modifying the stock trans crossmember, and I have a prothane conversion mount on the way.

My biggest question is will it be easier to install the trans with the bellhousing on the block, or on the trans... I've got big arms and getting those top 2 bellhousing to block bolts is a total *****. Really hoping I can put the bell on the block, then the trans onto the bell. But if not possible it would be good to know beforehand.
Any other comments are open, not sure If the shifter can be on the trans during Install or not... Thanks.
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Old 06-06-2015, 10:00 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaBluedude View Post
Hey all,
Looking for the transmission wizards here.
I have a shiny new t56 magnum for my 03 Mach 1.
-I'm going to be shortening my stock driveshaft once I have my measurement with the trans in the car.
-I have a solution for the reverse lockout solenoid
- shifter is on the trans (6 bolt, I've been told that it can be left on the trans during install, comments?)
- I have an 04 cobra bellhousing,
I will be modifying the stock trans crossmember, and I have a prothane conversion mount on the way.

My biggest question is will it be easier to install the trans with the bellhousing on the block, or on the trans... I've got big arms and getting those top 2 bellhousing to block bolts is a total *****. Really hoping I can put the bell on the block, then the trans onto the bell. But if not possible it would be good to know beforehand.
Any other comments are open, not sure If the shifter can be on the trans during Install or not... Thanks.
Although it's been a few years since I put the T56 in my 97Cobra, it's pretty much the same install although I used an QuickTime bellhousing.
I guess this install depends............are you going to be on lift or doing this on jack stands? I think on a lift you could probably do it either way although like you mentioned the top bolts are a lot easier to access with the trans out of the way rather than trying to put the complete trans/bellhousing in as a unit....my opinion.
I took my shifter off, just didn't want to scrape the bottom on the car while moving it back and forth and I think it was easier to align it without worrying about the shifter hitting the tunnel.
Since I installed a new flywheel/clutch/pressure plate/throwout bearing I installed the bellhousing first, then put the trans in.
If you are doing this on jack stands I would definitely think it would be a lot easier to install the bellhousing and then manhandle the transmission into place.
Because I had a Griggs tubular K member I even thought about dropping the K member with the engine and trans.......although it sounded like a good idea at the time it would have probably taken a total weekend even with the lift.
Let us know how it goes and take pictures if you can.
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Old 06-07-2015, 09:32 AM   #3
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Thanks. Yeah I'm doing it with Jack stands. I'll be putting the bell on first. I'm a little concerned about getting the shifter on it while it's in the car (the t56 magnum shifter is a lot bigger than the standard t56 shifter.) but I guess I'll find out one way or another. Thanks for your time. I'll post an update later. Here's a quick shot of the trans.
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Old 06-07-2015, 10:17 AM   #4
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-Bell on the block
-Shifter should be removed or you'll be cursing it as it catches on stuff during the install
-Reverse lockout solenoid, there is a spring kit you can install in the solenoid itself that allows you to push through reverse with one hand but still keeps you from going into 6th accidentally while driving.
-For the crossmember, you can just get the T-56 crossmember from the Termi or convert yours... as long as your pinion angle is good afterwards you are fine. Check with a digital inclinometer.

Also be aware that you MAY have to clearance a few things on the trans or the tunnel of your car to make the Magnum fit. This is why if you buy one from Astro they come pre-clearanced.
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Old 06-09-2015, 01:28 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
-Bell on the block
-Shifter should be removed or you'll be cursing it as it catches on stuff during the install
-Reverse lockout solenoid, there is a spring kit you can install in the solenoid itself that allows you to push through reverse with one hand but still keeps you from going into 6th accidentally while driving.
-For the crossmember, you can just get the T-56 crossmember from the Termi or convert yours... as long as your pinion angle is good afterwards you are fine. Check with a digital inclinometer.

Also be aware that you MAY have to clearance a few things on the trans or the tunnel of your car to make the Magnum fit. This is why if you buy one from Astro they come pre-clearanced.
Hey, I got mine from ford racing (through American muscle) and it came pre-cleranced. There's actually more space than the 3650 I took out I think. I could have installed it with the shifter pretty easily. But I took it off. It was really a pain to get the front 2 bolts for the shifter on. Having the bell on the block made it easy. Once we got it under the car. It only took 2 mins to get it in. Half an hour of fiddling with bolts and she was in place. I'm ordering a new t56 bushing and a stifflers t56 adjustable crossmember. I have everything else stifflers offers for my car so I figured I might as well go that route. As for the reverse lockout, im getting the samoco reverse lockout solenoid controller. All I have to figure out now us how much I need the driveshaft shortened. In theory, it should be the difference in length of the old trans and bellhousing vs the new trans/bell. But I'll be getting under the car for more measurements tomorrow. Wish I had any idea how much it should Be shortened by.
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Old 06-09-2015, 07:03 AM   #6
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Plenty of ppl have done the swap and posted the correct length on other forums I've been on. I'd Google around and see what you can find but still measure for sure.

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Old 06-09-2015, 12:42 PM   #7
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You gotta be careful though. You don't want your driveshaft to get out of balance. That will trash your drivetrain and/or tranny. I don't know your budget, but I'd look into an aluminum replacement that's already the correct size. Here's one from D&D Performance, but it's pricey. D12 T-56 Aluminum Drive Shaft

Maybe if you can get yours balanced after you cut it..? I'd want an aluminum shaft myself. Maybe you could buy a used aluminum shaft and cut it down and have balanced..?
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Old 06-11-2015, 11:42 AM   #8
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Yeah I can't get an exact length from anyone online and im no Google newb. Dnd told me 1 1/4" my measuring says 2" and the only other I found online was 2" so ****... Of course I would be reballancing the driveshaft after cutting.
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Old 06-11-2015, 11:44 AM   #9
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Cobra driveshaft?

Since the IRS and the SRA are direct replacements of one another that means they sit in the same location. The Termis came with the T56 so really all that should be needed is one of their driveshafts.


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Old 06-11-2015, 01:10 PM   #10
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Termi driveshaft yes, but will need the pinion flange for the driveshaft, IRS and SRA are different in that respect. Or he could get his driveshaft shortened up and use the Magnum yoke.


Check angles with an inclinometer, and Energy suspension bushings are a good idea on all 3 points. Do not use Prothane or the AM/LRS knockoffs or anything like that. The "poly" is cheap and might as well be plastic on the trans mounts. Energy is also not going to change your engine height/pinion angle like the Prothane/knockoffs do.
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Old 06-11-2015, 05:43 PM   #11
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Ds is getting 2" cut out of it... If it doesn't work out I'll be ****ed and need a new one. But It's as close as I can figure with measuring. To be clear... I am shortening my stock driveshaft with the stock sra rear-end for the new t56 magnum trans with the aluminum ford t56 bellhousing.
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Old 06-11-2015, 11:15 PM   #12
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If you do cut too small there are DS spacers you can use.


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Old 06-16-2015, 03:25 AM   #13
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Just for the next poor bastard doing this swap. A t56 magnum trans swapped into a sn95new edge v8 car with the factory SRA rear end, needs the factory driveshaft cut 2". Perfect fit. Now... If I can just get that damn crossmember sorted.
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Old 06-16-2015, 06:33 AM   #14
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The 99-04 should just be able to use the factory T-56 crossmember unless the Magnum has a different mounting point or something.
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Old 06-17-2015, 01:32 AM   #15
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It is a tiny bit different, but it would work. Here's the dilemma... You find a 03-04 crossmember in decent condition you would pay for. They are amazing expensive and out of production. NOS pieces are 350$
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Old 06-17-2015, 06:25 AM   #16
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I'll be goddamned, its been a few years since I've looked at these, they used to be in stock for $40. Lol wow.

Honestly I'd still pay for one, having had to **** with crossmembers in the past with TKOs before AJE and Stiffler's (much better) came along, I'll always buy a bolt in app even if its pricier.
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Old 06-17-2015, 11:33 AM   #17
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I have a stifflers adjustable mount on the way right now. It's going to work, and it's just a matter of getting the spacers in right. I have everything there is to get for my car from stifflers, they really know what they're doing. I love the chassis reinforcement.
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Old 06-17-2015, 02:38 PM   #18
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Yeah I used a stiffler's crossmember when I put the 3650 in my 98. Only way I found to put one in since the 3650 mounting point is different than the T45. At least the 96-98 T45.
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Old 06-22-2015, 10:56 AM   #19
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I just got the universal mount/crossmember from stifflers. Solar so good... Weird that it removes the traditional mount entirely. But it's very sturdy and it seems like it would work for all the transmissions listed. Just need to wore up the reverse lockout controller and she's back on the road.
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Old 06-22-2015, 11:22 AM   #20
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I'd just run the special spring that you put in the solenoid and don't even plug it in. Enough tension to keep you from going into R by accident but not enough to where you can't push through it with 1 hand.

Glad to hear the stiffler's is working tho. They make good stuff. Did you verify your pinion angle too or are you just going to trust that they did it right? I mean my stiffler's crossmember was dead on accurate but I also had an Energy mount that came with a few spacers I could play with if I needed to.
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Old 06-22-2015, 08:26 PM   #21
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My pinion angle is almost perfect as far as I can measure it, but with the car being so low, it's tough to measure too. No noise, or vibration on test drives tho. I suspect it could be about 1/8" low. The clearance is really close and if I have to adjust it, I'll have to bash out transmission tunnel... I'll report back later on that. As for the reverse lockout, the warranty and guarantee are both dependant on there being a controller for the reverse lockout. Also, I already have everything for it. Just need to choose a ground point, do a bit of soldering, and she should be good to go.
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Old 06-22-2015, 08:33 PM   #22
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Ah gotcha.


Well my Stiffler's crossmember did come with spacers and the Energy mount had a removable spacer as well. I had to run with zero spacers for the crossmember and pull the spacer out of the mount and then I BARELY cleared the tunnel of my 98 with the 3650 and that also got the pinion angle dialed in.
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Old 06-22-2015, 09:53 PM   #23
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a trick I learned on those top bolts (I also have big hands so its hard to get in there).

Put 2 studs in the top bolt holes on the engine finger tight, and then slide the trans onto them. Then put the bolts in all of the ohter holes just snug enough so that the trans isn't wiggling around. Then mount the crossmember under the transmission so that the trans isn't causing the engine to tilt backwards at all.

then form the TOP of the engine bay, you can access the 2 top trans bolts with your hands (probably) and then unscrew the studs you put in and replace them with bolts. Proceed to tighten them with a combo wrench.

I have an EGR delete, which made this all very easy to do after I figured out to do that. Not sure if thats a widely known trick or not, but it should be if its not!!
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Old 06-22-2015, 10:21 PM   #24
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I never had a problem getting at those top bolts tho. Lots of extensions and a universal and a big breaker bar and tilt the trans down as far as it'll go and you can get at them from underneath easy enough.
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Old 06-22-2015, 10:45 PM   #25
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Quote:
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a trick I learned on those top bolts (I also have big hands so its hard to get in there).

Put 2 studs in the top bolt holes on the engine finger tight, and then slide the trans onto them. Then put the bolts in all of the ohter holes just snug enough so that the trans isn't wiggling around. Then mount the crossmember under the transmission so that the trans isn't causing the engine to tilt backwards at all.

then form the TOP of the engine bay, you can access the 2 top trans bolts with your hands (probably) and then unscrew the studs you put in and replace them with bolts. Proceed to tighten them with a combo wrench.

I have an EGR delete, which made this all very easy to do after I figured out to do that. Not sure if thats a widely known trick or not, but it should be if its not!!
I've never used studs on the bellhousing, but have 4 ground down studs with slots that fit my large screwdriver and use then when putting the transmission in. That basically makes it a one man job..............and I've used this method for over 50 years....on manual transmission.
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Old 06-23-2015, 09:49 AM   #26
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Get a Ford Racing aluminum drive shaft, did a sra swap in this Cobra roller and just had to take the drive shaft to a DS shop for them to put a ew flange on it.

I could probably dig up some part numbers or take a pic.
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Old 06-26-2015, 01:07 PM   #27
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Well, I don't know what it is yet, but at low revs, I have a grinding noise under partial throttle and when changing gears but it is intermittent... I have no clue what the issue is, possibilities include pp imbalance, throwout bearing issue, input shaft bearing preloaded wrong, and I'm just aggravated... Trans itself shifts like butter and there are no vibrations.
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Old 06-26-2015, 07:08 PM   #28
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Clutch not fully disengaging? Sounds like an issue inside the bell IMO.
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Old 06-30-2015, 04:05 AM   #29
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Yeah. ****ing cheap ****ty centreforce pressure plate is toast. Ordered a new mcleod clutch.
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Old 07-07-2015, 12:32 PM   #30
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Officially the worst luck ever. The new pressure plate I got is visibly not straight... Having a professional shop finish the install for me... Pretty done with this trans swap.
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Old 07-07-2015, 12:41 PM   #31
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Hmmm McCleod is usually really good. Vendor should send you a replacement tho.

As for Centerforce... they are pieces of ****.
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Old 08-16-2015, 10:16 PM   #32
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Just thought I would update this thread, 300 km into the break in of this t56 magnum, and it's got a brutal grinding sound coming from in the trans. We're thinking input shaft bearing was not preloaded correctly or something else. Shop will be ripping it apart. Pretty bummed.
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Old 08-16-2015, 10:18 PM   #33
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Well hopefully the shop that is doing it is the shop that built it and it's not costing you anything.
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Old 08-17-2015, 12:00 AM   #34
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It was a brand new tremec built trans. Tremec will be picking up the tab. If there is a disintegrated bearing that did any damage to anything else, I will be pushing for a new unit. It's insane to me that this trans failed... I know 2 other people who have had failed magnums this season. Both with fewer than 10k km.
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Old 08-17-2015, 06:34 AM   #35
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Magnums have itty bitty synchro teeth. They are strong as hell, but if you happen to miss a high RPM shift even a few times you can shear them clean off. Reason a lot of guys like older rebuilt T-56s or built 3650s. Built 3650s are nice because you can keep the 3.37 first gear and get a .62 overdrive. Or even deeper if you get an aftermarket gearset.


There is also always the Astro A5 which is 75lbs, good for 600ft lbs and easily the smoothest shifting trans out of all of them as it is technically still a T-5. And you get a scattershield with that since its required to adapt it to a modular block.
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