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Old 08-22-2015, 02:17 PM   #106
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Took my daughter to a small local show. Sadly for a Mustang event there was only 4 Mustangs...

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True but still at least it had some cars and hopefully you daughter had fun that's the best part

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Old 08-25-2015, 08:51 AM   #107
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I think I've settled on a wheel choice for the GT. 17x9 and 17x10.5 or same setup in 18" 1995 chrome Cobras wrapped in Mickey Thompson rubber from American Muscle. The only thing I'm still torn on is the size. Do I stay with 17, or bump it up to 18? What do you guys think?

She will get a 1 1/2" drop, and think the 18's will flow better, but my last one had a 2 inch drop on 17's and it looked perfect. Agh choices choices. ..

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I have 95 chrome cobras on my new edge and love them, they are 17's too.. My car has not been lowered yet,which I plan on doing in the VERY near future lol... I believe it will set the car and wheels off once I do so, I absolutely can not stand that 4x4 look!! But to answer your question, right now I DO want 18's I think only because I'm not lowered yet, but once I lower my car I believe it'll still look just as good with these 17's.. And by the way these rims look so aggressive with some 275's or 315's out back


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Old 08-25-2015, 09:18 AM   #108
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I have 95 chrome cobras on my new edge and love them, they are 17's too.. My car has not been lowered yet,which I plan on doing in the VERY near future lol... I believe it will set the car and wheels off once I do so, I absolutely can not stand that 4x4 look!! But to answer your question, right now I DO want 18's I think only because I'm not lowered yet, but once I lower my car I believe it'll still look just as good with these 17's.. And by the way these rims look so aggressive with some 275's or 315's out back


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I've been against 17" wheels for a long time, I never thought they looked quite right on a SN95... but for performance and cost I'm going to eat crow on this car and go ahead with 17s. Reasons being:

-17s clear 13" Cobra brakes just fine
-17s are lighter
-17s are a solid $400-$500 cheaper
-315s are readily available in the 17" wheel size

The only advantage to 18s is looks and if you need to clear a bigger brake but usually you need to go to a 19" wheel to go to 14" brake so.....

AM right now is doing 17" staggered wheel and tire combos with 275/315 Mickey Thompson Street Comps for $1170-$1350ish depending on what rims/finish you get.


Personally, I cannot justify spending damn near $1k more on a wheel/tire set that will arguably not look any better(they do look a lot better when the car is slammed) and will actually be a performance hit with heavier wheels.



Also for those who DO track their cars, 17" tires are way more cost effective than 18s or bigger.
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Old 08-25-2015, 10:54 AM   #109
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I really did like my previous mustang with the 2" drop and 17x9 setup. I've decided on the chrome cobras, and am leaning towards the 17"

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Old 08-25-2015, 05:08 PM   #110
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I guess I'm in the minority. I always felt that my 17s looked small when I had them. When I stepped up to 18s I feel like they just fit perfectly in the wheel wells. Any time I see q7s on a new edge now I can't help but feel like they look too small
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Old 08-25-2015, 05:33 PM   #111
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@scotty

So I would really like to keep my 17's for the simple fact that I do like the rims(also the reasons you mentioned)and $1500 is just not in the budget right now for new wheels and tires lol..

What springs would you recommend for right now that would give the car a good stance with 17's??



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Old 08-25-2015, 06:13 PM   #112
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I'm going out to a local club meeting and am going to compare both sizes and decide. Only problem is that there are so few new edges, but there area a couple guys so we will see.

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Old 08-25-2015, 06:18 PM   #113
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I guess I'm in the minority. I always felt that my 17s looked small when I had them. When I stepped up to 18s I feel like they just fit perfectly in the wheel wells. Any time I see q7s on a new edge now I can't help but feel like they look too small
I've made many posts that say the same thing. I personally do think that 17s are a little small for the SN95, called them "roller skates". However, this 2000 I have is going for looks but also going to be way more conscious of function over form for some things on the car. 17s are lighter, cheaper, wider back wheels and they clear 13" Cobra brakes. There is zero advantage of 18s except maybe looks. And you know what? A 315/35/17 is just as tall as a 275/35/18 is. They fill up the wheel wells the same and the ride quality is better with the 17s.

I hate to say it, but I'm eating crow as far as my espousal of wheel selection goes recently. I DO still think 18s look better, but 17s still look good and are better in every other category. Plus if I ever went to 14" brakes, I'd have to get a VERY specific 18" rim or 19s.

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@scotty

So I would really like to keep my 17's for the simple fact that I do like the rims(also the reasons you mentioned)and $1500 is just not in the budget right now for new wheels and tires lol..

What springs would you recommend for right now that would give the car a good stance with 17's??



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Honestly for a budget the SR springs are fine. Couple that with a good shock like a Bilstein and you are good to go. Make sure to get CC plates if you lower the car (MM). You can probably get the Bilsteins from a price matched or at least very competitive rate from Autozone and they have a lifetime warranty so if one blows out at any point you can just walk into the store with your original receipt (save it in glove box) and walk out with a new one.


For both posts above (to prove 17s look good and to show a stance with 17s), here is my old 98 right before I first got it with 17x8/17x10.5 chrome Bullitts.









I will say the wheels didn't fill up the wells as much as I'd like, but the car needed to be dropped another 1/2" or maybe a little more. Like I said, an OEM height 17 fills up the wheel well exactly as much as an OEM height 18.

edit: That car was on BBK springs with Tokico Illumina shocks/struts. I spent about $1200 on an 18" wheel/tire package and in hindsight, I probably should have just gotten some new back tires for it for $350 and called it good. There was nothing wrong with those rims.
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Old 08-25-2015, 10:53 PM   #114
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Who makes a 2 point strut tower brace for a 99-04 get? I've seen a couple for the Cobras and Mach 1's, but for the life of me can't find any information as to whether they will fit a GT. I don't see why not, but can't get confirmation.



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Old 08-26-2015, 06:57 AM   #115
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Why not just get the MM or Steeda full tower brace?
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Old 08-26-2015, 08:37 AM   #116
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2 reasons. 1, I like the way the 2 point looks more. 2, less pita. The 3 point restricted my access to the motor more on my last Mustang, and the cowls on these are fairly brittle at this age and would rather not crack another one. Also it will be easier for me to remove it when I pull the motor.

It's a vert so a get some nasty cowl shake. I want to do flsfc, and front and rear strut braces to stiffen it up a bit. I'm also doing the styling bar since they look so damn good, and would hope that would help a little as well.

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Old 08-26-2015, 06:25 PM   #117
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Alright, so my wife doesn't like the FR500's. So we are 90% sure on a set of these for both Mustangs. Still going to look at some other options, maybe something not so common. But that's not so important to us. We don't particularly care how many people do or do not have the wheels we choose, so long as we like the way they look.

18's on my GT and she likes the 17's for her 3.8.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/chrome...tomo-stag.html

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Old 08-27-2015, 07:53 AM   #118
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Ok after weeks of looking and trying to figure out a parts list for my Mustang I've got the one for AM done. I still need to do one for my wife. Here's mine, at a total of 7,500 bucks. This doesn't include cams, heads, pro charger, paint, and the convertible top.

Check out this build list: http://www.americanmuscle.com/build-...l?build=102212




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Old 08-27-2015, 09:09 AM   #119
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Here is a partial build list for my wife's car. Doesn't include front and rear bumpers,interior, or paint. I'm not a fan of the louvers, but she likes them. Should look pretty good with the decklid panel and Raxiom Icons. I want to do the o/r Mac Prochamber and Flowmaster 10's, but she prefers the sound of the manga flow dual conversion kit with the stock cats. Whatever floats her boat. I see this being a topic of heated discussion before we purchase.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/build-...l?build=129554



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Old 08-27-2015, 11:12 AM   #120
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If you're gonna be spending this kinda money on things I have a few suggestions.
1 Don't get the SR performance TB and plenum combo. They're crap. Get the summit racing 75mm TB and plenum combo. Better quality and made by trick flow.
2 don't get the SR performance CC plates. They rattle very bad and can come apart. maximum Motorsport or nothing.
3 don't get the SR performance cold air intake. They rust and heat soak very well. That's all they're about good for. JLT full length CAI or stock with paper filter. Can't really beat either.
4 skip the BBk upper and lower control arm kit. They have poly bushings and if you ever corner even the slightest bit too hard they can put a ton of stress on the body and rip the mounts out of the unibody. Get maximum motorpsorts or steeda with spherical bearings or 3 piece poly ball bushings. Much better control of the rear axle and less stress. Skip the uppers completely unless you're just drag racing only.
Just my 2¢


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Old 08-27-2015, 12:04 PM   #121
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Alright, so my wife doesn't like the FR500's. So we are 90% sure on a set of these for both Mustangs. Still going to look at some other options, maybe something not so common. But that's not so important to us. We don't particularly care how many people do or do not have the wheels we choose, so long as we like the way they look.

18's on my GT and she likes the 17's for her 3.8.

Staggered Chrome Saleen Style Mustang Wheel & Sumitomo Tire Kit - 18x9/10 (99-04) - Free Shipping

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I don't like the saleens but looks are subjective, if you like them go for it. I would suggest a better tire than the Sumi if actually hooking up is something you care about tho.

And very smart to get 17s for the sixxer, weigh less and better tire selection IMO. Heck, I'm getting 17s for my supercharged Steeda car. I've come to terms with the fact that 18s are a performance downgrade over 17s even though I think the 18s look better. 17s clear a 13" brake upgrade and to get a 14" brake kit in a SN95 that usually requires a 19" wheel anyway.

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Ok after weeks of looking and trying to figure out a parts list for my Mustang I've got the one for AM done. I still need to do one for my wife. Here's mine, at a total of 7,500 bucks. This doesn't include cams, heads, pro charger, paint, and the convertible top.

Check out this build list: http://www.americanmuscle.com/build-...l?build=102212




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Few things I see wrong.

1 is that if you are NA, don't get the Eddy intake, just leave the PI intake on there or get a replacement FRPP PI intake if something is wrong with yours. A stock longblock NA 2V loses torque down low with the eddy and does not have a high enough redline to make use of its higher flow numbers up top. Only benefit is its metal...

2 is that if you DO get the Eddy then actually get the correct elbow for it and TB. You can't just run any old plenum without a half assed adapter for it. Also if you get the eddy intake setup you want to get the fully prepped one from MHS. http://www.modularheadshop.com/mhsed...1999-2004.aspx


I would stick with the stock PI intake tho. And the TFS plenum from LRS for $109 and the Summit 75mm TB for $159.

The SR intake will rust in 2 seconds and just heat soaks and is not a performance upgrade so that is 3,

Solid upper control arms for these cars is a VERY bad idea, that's 4.

MSD coils are snake oil, if you have OEM coils just rebuild them for $30, they produce a stronger spark and last longer anyway. That's 5.

6 is there is absolutely zero need for tubular A arms if you are leaving the stock K in, that's just window dressing. Wait till you do the K and coilovers for that. And when you do the K and A-arms, don't get QA1, QA1 is crap.

Finally, the longtubes. Those chrome Macs will start rusting quickly if you live in a climate that ever sees bad weather and especially if there is salt down in the winter. For a SN95 longtube setup, save for a Kooks setup or do not bother as you will be replacing the whole thing again in a few years. I know, I've had MAC longtubes before...

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Here is a partial build list for my wife's car. Doesn't include front and rear bumpers,interior, or paint. I'm not a fan of the louvers, but she likes them. Should look pretty good with the decklid panel and Raxiom Icons. I want to do the o/r Mac Prochamber and Flowmaster 10's, but she prefers the sound of the manga flow dual conversion kit with the stock cats. Whatever floats her boat. I see this being a topic of heated discussion before we purchase.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/build-...l?build=129554



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Pretty much the same thing here as far as the CAI and the coil. The TB might make a little difference or maybe not but look into the Windstar intake swap for a 3.8L, that DOES make a difference. Stay away from SR CC plates as was already mentioned. As for the 1/4 scoops, I highly HIGHLY suggest you take a look at them in person if you can on someone else's car or look at a bunch of different google image pics. They really look like crap on a SN95 car and they also are a bit dangerous because now you can't see out of those windows. Giant blind spot.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slater2111 View Post
If you're gonna be spending this kinda money on things I have a few suggestions.
1 Don't get the SR performance TB and plenum combo. They're crap. Get the summit racing 75mm TB and plenum combo. Better quality and made by trick flow.
2 don't get the SR performance CC plates. They rattle very bad and can come apart. maximum Motorsport or nothing.
3 don't get the SR performance cold air intake. They rust and heat soak very well. That's all they're about good for. JLT full length CAI or stock with paper filter. Can't really beat either.
4 skip the BBk upper and lower control arm kit. They have poly bushings and if you ever corner even the slightest bit too hard they can put a ton of stress on the body and rip the mounts out of the unibody. Get maximum motorpsorts or steeda with spherical bearings or 3 piece poly ball bushings. Much better control of the rear axle and less stress. Skip the uppers completely unless you're just drag racing only.
Just my 2¢


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If he is getting the Eddy intake, he will need the Eddy elbow and then a TB of choice. I already recommended he get the MHS full setup if he is going that route but a replacement PI intake will be better if his is broken or just leave the stock intake on there. PI intake makes a little more bottom end in the lower RPM range which is what these motors need and with around a 6k redline, they can't even make use of the Eddy intake anyway.

Obviously agree with the CC plates and CAI and the uppers but NOT about the spherical or 3 piece poly uppers. Uppers should honestly be left alone unless one is broken and then it should be replaced with stock. Only time the uppers should come out is for a 3 link, a 5 link or an IRS swap. Which if he is going to spend all this money on these cars already is something he might want to look into.



If these posts sounds like I'm being an ***, I am not, I'm just trying to save someone from wasting money and making mistakes I did (lots of ppl make) when I was learning. There is a LOT of stuff out there being sold as performance upgrades for these cars that either just aren't or they are badly designed and can cause a lot of issues. A 99-04 GT only needs a few things "bolt on" wise for power and then its all suspension and cosmetics from there until one goes for a supercharger/nitrous/turbo and/or a legit motor buildup.
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Old 08-27-2015, 01:32 PM   #122
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Yea I agree notice I said skip the uppers.


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Old 08-27-2015, 02:17 PM   #123
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Alrighty. I appreciate the input guys.

I'll skip the sr cc plates and opt for the mm or steeda plates.

As for the wheels. We spent countless hours going back and forth. We really like the wheels. I almost decided on the 17's for mine as well, but decided the look I'll get with the 18 will offset any negative impact on performance for me.

The GT isn't staying NA. Hence my looking at the eddy. I'll also swap the SR TB and plenum for one that will work with the eddy. I'll have to look further into that. Cams, heads and internals weren't on that list as I'm looking elsewhere for those. The motor in the GT will come out and go on the stand for a portion of the build. Figure that will be the easiest time to pull it all apart and add the goodies.

All this noted, is the eddy going to be a good choice for when she sees boost, or should I look at something else?

Both cars will need coils and wires. I've used MSD in the past and am happy with the quality. Not expecting much else from them.

And the cai. It's only going on to clean up the engine bay. I had the same one on my last mustang with no issues. I did look at both lists and notice i had the wrong sr cai on mine. Both will be black, not the chrome. So with that in mind that's not something I'm going to spend a lot on for engine dress up. I looked at valve covers and decided against those for the same reason.

A tubular k member may come in the future in pursuit of stiffening up the sloppy covertible feel, undecided there. What would be a higher quality control arm to go with over the one I listed?

I was on the fence with the Bbk upper and lowers, so this has pushed me to look at more options. I'll look for lower arm options and leave the upper alone. Any suggestions on the best choice for those? I'm even open to doing something completely different in pursuit of better handling. Just needs to be something that will work on the street, strip, and track.

I don't mind spending the extra coin on the headers. I don't particularly want to go through the hassle of getting them on there just to have them look like crap shortly after. So I'll swap those for the Kooks. I admittedly don't know a whole lot about different brands of headers on the 4.6, but knew enough to stay far away from Pacesetter. I was looking at the build cost for both cars a thought the macs would work for me and save a little in the grand scheme of things. Headache avoided.

Scotty I think mentioned the windstar swap on the 3.8. Thankyou! I completely forgot about that.
As for the 1/4 scoops, my wife loves them. Again, I'm not too keen on those and the rear louvers, so we will be discussing that further. With some further thought, we will likely swap in an 8.8 with tlok and 3.73's in her's.

There are some other odds and ends that weren't on the AM lists, because they are being sourced elsewhere. I just need to get everything laid out so my wife and I can budget and come up with a build schedule. I've also got to consider the work I'm doing on all three bikes. I'm undertaking a few big, very costly projects at once. So detailed planning is key to avoiding unnecessary headaches.

Any other input on my choices is greatly appreciated. I've I can avoid a pita thanks to someone else's experience, then I'm a happy camper.

This is a project for my wife and I to complete together and enjoy the process. It's more about the build than just going out and buying something. If someone is wondering, both cars will be mostly weekend cruisers, with the GT seeing the strip and track more often than the 6.

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Old 08-27-2015, 02:36 PM   #124
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These for your lower control arms
http://www.americanmuscle.com/maximu...rms-99-04.html

And this swap for your eddy intake.
Comes with properly made fuel rails and the option to drill and tap it for the FPS that we need. Also comes with a properly made plenum
http://www.modularheadshop.com/mhsed...1999-2004.aspx



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Old 08-27-2015, 02:46 PM   #125
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These for your lower control arms
http://www.americanmuscle.com/maximu...rms-99-04.html

And this swap for your eddy intake.
Comes with properly made fuel rails and the option to drill and tap it for the FPS that we need. Also comes with a properly made plenum
http://www.modularheadshop.com/mhsed...1999-2004.aspx



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Ok, so I've got the lower rears changed.

I'm not finding anything yet on how the eddy does for boosted applications, but will continue to research. I'm now concerned with performance issues as she won't get boosted until the very end. I'm not too keen on buying multiple manifolds, so that and the cams may wait till the end and go on when it's boosted. Going to have to research that further.

On a side note, I just spoke with my wife. She's okay with ditching the 1/4 scoops, but won't budge on the louvers. But if she wants them that bad, then they stay.

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Old 08-27-2015, 06:39 PM   #126
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Hey if she likes them then go for it, its her car. But I will say from my own standpoint and talking to plenty of ppl, the vast majority of ppl think the 1/4 louvres on the New Edge look like butt. Just be prepared for that at any drive ins you go to lol.

As for the intake. The stock intake is good for like 18+psi. Also not like its hard to swap an intake with the motor in the car. Really only needed if you are going to spin to the 6500+ range which the stock 2V really can't do. If the motor is built... well... just FYI the PI intake is good for 600+ in a boosted app. Food for thought. Can't argue the looks of the Eddy tho and if you are spinning up to that range the PI will run out of air in the upper RPM range.

And like I linked to (and others), if you get the Eddy intake, get the MHS prepped one. It'll save you time and money and its a direct bolt on.

Oh, as far as lower control arms, the Steedas are good too if you want to save a little $$$ and as far as subframes, if you are concerned with ground clearance or ever want to run side exhaust, look at Spintech subframes. They actually tuck right up to the floorpan the whole way and are THE best subframes for ground clearance.
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Old 08-27-2015, 07:27 PM   #127
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Nope no side exhaust. But ill need the clearance for some parts around town. Those vould save me some cringing at the sound of scraping.

Since the pi intake is good for 600 I see no need to mess with it unless I want a cool looking piece under the hood, but it's unlikely. I don't plan on being up in the crazy hp ranges. Looking for a good 375-425 to the wheels. Just a little something to get that weight moving.

I've been looking at the steeda lowers, more research...


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Old 08-27-2015, 07:49 PM   #128
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If that's all you want then no reason to go with the Eddy. The PI CAN have issues with warping under the tstat housing so that is something to look at when the intake is off. But a new one will last many years and is actually a REALLY good intake for making power. Pair it with the Trick Flow plenum from LRS for $109 and the Summit 75mm TB on Summitracing for $159. If you are a member of the Corral, you can get a 6% discount code from LRS just like AM on here. LRS carries a few things AM doesn't especially just basic replacement parts.
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Old 08-27-2015, 07:50 PM   #129
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Thoughts on louvers...

I love how they look and since installing them, everyone that has commented to me about them loves them except for my fiancee, who says my car now looks like a razorback.

Show your wife pictures of my car, I have a few different angles and also a white car. Might give her more of an idea, I tend to look at 234,596,043 pictures before doing anything.

What she might not like and I find annoying but am able to live with it- they rattle at 70mph. And I have the constant fear when they rattle, they might come flying off. Every time I walk past my car, I check to make sure they're still attached and tight.
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Old 08-27-2015, 08:35 PM   #130
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I'd be constantly worrying about the louvers flying off. Now the rattle may actually convince her not to go that route.

I'm going to go ahead and just buy a new PI manifold and throw that on when the motor is out and I've got everything apart.

I'll check out lrs and summit for the plenum and throttle body.

Something I forgot to put on my list is a new top. That's going to be a pita to do I'm sure.

I don't remember who brought it up in another thread, but I'm looking into 05-09 seats for both cars.

Looked at cobra front and rear (shaved) but don't know if I like the price of admission on the cobra rear bumper. Why are they so damn expensive everywhere? Usually more than double the cost of the front! I'll likely skip the idea all together. I'm already on track to be way over the budget my wife and I agreed on, oops...

I just took mine out for a ride. Couldn't help but to take a picture of those awesome taillights when I got back. I love em. The LED tag lights look much better than the incandescent bulbs too.

Tonights little ride reminded me of my two current biggest complaints, the floppy body, and the lazy slouch automatic. The Suspension and brakes are first on the build list, but the transmission is going to have to be right after those. I'll have my transmission shop get that thing sorted and have them throw in the converter and shift kit while they are rebuilding it. Not saying it's a bad transmission. But there is a lot to be desired as far as shift points and and firmness.



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Old 08-27-2015, 09:05 PM   #131
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J-mod the transmission, watch the youtube video on how to do it. It not only is a $60 shift kit, it actually improves transmission life. For a really good converter on a "budget" look up Freakshow in Abeline TX.

As for as bumpers. Not sure about the Cobra rear but you can get a shaved GT or V6 style rear bumper on Rockauto for about $200 shipped. Any for the Cobra front the expensive ones are the 99/01 or 00R styles. The Termi style one is also about $200 for a good certfit.

As far as the "floppy body". Subframes, LCAs, lowered and CC plates will go a long way but the rear end is going to need some work to get right. I'm going 5 link because I'm a unique and individual snowflake and also because its said to have better anti-squat and cornering in the rear than the TA/PHB setup. Also WAY better ground clearance but with both of those SRA upgrades you will need to go dumps or side exhaust. The IRS is the only real way to sort the *** end of the car and retain tailpipes. And the IRS is very heavy and requires a $700 bushing kit plus the $1000-$1200 cost of the IRS and the install.

I think it was me that mentioned the 05+ seats, there are plenty of how-tos to installing them in a 04-down car, you can just google that. Or get a set of Corbeaus.

When/if you do get a new manifold it HAS to be the FRPP PI intake for $295 or so. Don't buy the $200 AM knock off or the $150 Dorman from a parts store. They aren't the same.

Um... what else...

Oh, for brakes if you are buying new rotors and pads maybe jump up to Cobra brakes up front? They're a direct bolt on upgrade and take you to 13" calipers up front, Cobra spec brakes stop much better than even the updated dual caliper 99-04 GT brakes.

And as far as the louvers. You really would have to see them in person but I would second that any stick on piece like that does have a risk of flying off at speed and it would suck if it took out someone behind you/her on the highway. I personally will not ever run anything like that from the aftermarket and I don't even like how a few things OEM are snapped onto the car like the side scoops. It is what it is I guess. And yes, they create massive blind spots, I dunno why so many ppl run them especially almost every modded S197 car... I personally think the 05-14 cars look cleaner without them and just a good tintjob on them but that's just me.
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Old 08-28-2015, 05:53 AM   #132
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We saw the louvers on a Mach 1 at the car show the other day, that's why she wants them.

As for the bumpers, I had purchased the shaved GT front and rear for my last Mustang from rockauto. I'm definitely buying another one, and putting mine on the 3.8.

I've also already added the FRPP PI intake to the list. No Dorman stuff for us.

I'm likely going to step up to the cobra front brakes. My wife's newer Taurus really reminds me how inadequate the GT brakes are for my taste. And the taurus is a much bigger car. I feel the Cobras would be a worth while investment.

I have to keep those gorgeous SLP tips, so I won't go with a setup that is going to prevent me from using them. I also have no interest in doing an irs swap. I don't care for the extra weight, and I'm sure I can get the solid rear to behave like I want. I'll just need to spend more time figuring out how to get that sorted.

I thought it was you who mentioned the newer seats. I'm going to have to see if I can track down 2 sets, one in grey, the other tan.

This feedback helps a good bit. These are not light builds, and come with a rather hefty price tag. So I need to get it right on the first go round. Otherwise a 1-2 year project can balloon way past that if I've got to keep going back and replacing stuff we're not happy with.

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Old 08-28-2015, 06:45 AM   #133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Project Pony View Post
We saw the louvers on a Mach 1 at the car show the other day, that's why she wants them.

As for the bumpers, I had purchased the shaved GT front and rear for my last Mustang from rockauto. I'm definitely buying another one, and putting mine on the 3.8.

I've also already added the FRPP PI intake to the list. No Dorman stuff for us.

I'm likely going to step up to the cobra front brakes. My wife's newer Taurus really reminds me how inadequate the GT brakes are for my taste. And the taurus is a much bigger car. I feel the Cobras would be a worth while investment.

I have to keep those gorgeous SLP tips, so I won't go with a setup that is going to prevent me from using them. I also have no interest in doing an irs swap. I don't care for the extra weight, and I'm sure I can get the solid rear to behave like I want. I'll just need to spend more time figuring out how to get that sorted.

I thought it was you who mentioned the newer seats. I'm going to have to see if I can track down 2 sets, one in grey, the other tan.

This feedback helps a good bit. These are not light builds, and come with a rather hefty price tag. So I need to get it right on the first go round. Otherwise a 1-2 year project can balloon way past that if I've got to keep going back and replacing stuff we're not happy with.

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Well, the TA/PHB and the 5 link setup both get in the way of tailpipes... And nothing you can really do to the 4 link is going to make it handle ok. You can get it to hook up in a straight line pretty decent but going around corners... I'd say look into the "poor man's 3 link" which is running a single aftermarket upper control arm with a spherical heim joint on the chassis side and a panhard bar. Soccer is the one to ask about that, I think he knows at least 1 person running that and if you can keep tailpipes or not.

Blah, the rear suspension setup is so crappy in these cars and there is a reason Ford went to a 3 link in 2005. Those things are easy.
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Old 08-28-2015, 07:29 AM   #134
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Hopefully soccer chimes in. I need to get that rear feeling like I want it. Granted it will see the strip more often than the track, I still need it to behave in the corners.

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Old 08-28-2015, 07:49 AM   #135
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Did some digging and it looks like my best option is a Griggs torque arm and watts link, with both upper control arms removed. Price is under 2k for both and seems to offer substantial improvement. Anyone have experience with both of these, or either?

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Old 08-28-2015, 07:54 AM   #136
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The shop near Soccer makes a Watt's link too. Although with the Watts you still need to remove your tailpipes I think. The advantage to the Watts over the PHB is there is zero side to side movement of the axle. One reason I like the 5 link is that although it has a PHB, the PHB is so long that the side to side movement of the axle is supposed to be almost nothing.


Steeda 1979-04 Mustang 5 Link Rear Suspension System - Made in the USA 555-2501 | Free Shipping!


Also has better ground clearance than any torque arm setup.
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Old 08-28-2015, 10:40 AM   #137
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I didn't find anything in regards to the tail pipes with the watts. If that's the case it will be another idea I'll have to scrap. I need to do a one more digging and find out for sure. I did see where I would have to cut the spare wheel tub, and the spare would no longer fit, but that's not a concern for me.

I like that steeda 5 link, but do not want to do side exhaust. This is starting to get annoying...

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Old 08-28-2015, 06:53 PM   #138
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I've spent some time looking at the steeda side exhaust in hopes of finding a compromise for the suspension I would like. I just can't do it. It doesn't look right at all to me. I also looked at the roush setup. But the lines of the side skirts bother me a great deal in regards to the rear bumper. Not to mention after being lowered I'd likely drag both all over town. There has to be a way to get this thing where I want it. Irs is now on the table, though I'm not too enthusiastic about the weight gain. Is there a way to do the IRS swap while keeping the weight down? I'm not going to be able to move forward until I get this figured out.

Is the additional weight going to be that big of a factor considering the rest of the build? Obviously there are Cobra guys getting along just fine and I will be putting more to the wheels than a stock Cobra. Maybe I'm over thinking it.

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Old 08-28-2015, 08:43 PM   #139
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Well I think your worrying about this to much since your going fi and gobs of HP I don't think it going really make to much of a difference I'm not sure about the weight of a SRA rearend but the cobra IRS may be only 2 to 3 hundred lbs more if you were going na then yeah your car would be a slug but you not so I don't really see and issue with the cobra IRS especially since your gaming so much from it weight is negligible

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Old 08-28-2015, 08:48 PM   #140
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I just looked up some info the weight difference between a gt and a cobra is only 300 lbs so not that much of a difference

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