Alright, so my wife doesn't like the FR500's. So we are 90% sure on a set of these for both Mustangs. Still going to look at some other options, maybe something not so common. But that's not so important to us. We don't particularly care how many people do or do not have the wheels we choose, so long as we like the way they look.
18's on my GT and she likes the 17's for her 3.8.
Staggered Chrome Saleen Style Mustang Wheel & Sumitomo Tire Kit - 18x9/10 (99-04) - Free Shipping
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920AZ using Mustang Evolution mobile app
I don't like the saleens but looks are subjective, if you like them go for it. I would suggest a better tire than the Sumi if actually hooking up is something you care about tho.
And very smart to get 17s for the sixxer, weigh less and better tire selection IMO. Heck, I'm getting 17s for my supercharged Steeda car. I've come to terms with the fact that 18s are a performance downgrade over 17s even though I think the 18s look better. 17s clear a 13" brake upgrade and to get a 14" brake kit in a SN95 that usually requires a 19" wheel anyway.
Ok after weeks of looking and trying to figure out a parts list for my Mustang I've got the one for AM done. I still need to do one for my wife. Here's mine, at a total of 7,500 bucks. This doesn't include cams, heads, pro charger, paint, and the convertible top.
Check out this build list:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/build-list.html?build=102212
Sent from my iPad using Mustang Evolution
Few things I see wrong.
1 is that if you are NA, don't get the Eddy intake, just leave the PI intake on there or get a replacement FRPP PI intake if something is wrong with yours. A stock longblock NA 2V loses torque down low with the eddy and does not have a high enough redline to make use of its higher flow numbers up top. Only benefit is its metal...
2 is that if you DO get the Eddy then actually get the correct elbow for it and TB. You can't just run any old plenum without a half assed adapter for it. Also if you get the eddy intake setup you want to get the fully prepped one from MHS.
http://www.modularheadshop.com/mhsedelbrock46l2vintakemanifoldcombo-1999-2004.aspx
I would stick with the stock PI intake tho. And the TFS plenum from LRS for $109 and the Summit 75mm TB for $159.
The SR intake will rust in 2 seconds and just heat soaks and is not a performance upgrade so that is 3,
Solid upper control arms for these cars is a VERY bad idea, that's 4.
MSD coils are snake oil, if you have OEM coils just rebuild them for $30, they produce a stronger spark and last longer anyway. That's 5.
6 is there is absolutely zero need for tubular A arms if you are leaving the stock K in, that's just window dressing. Wait till you do the K and coilovers for that. And when you do the K and A-arms, don't get QA1, QA1 is crap.
Finally, the longtubes. Those chrome Macs will start rusting quickly if you live in a climate that ever sees bad weather and especially if there is salt down in the winter. For a SN95 longtube setup, save for a Kooks setup or do not bother as you will be replacing the whole thing again in a few years. I know, I've had MAC longtubes before...
Here is a partial build list for my wife's car. Doesn't include front and rear bumpers,interior, or paint. I'm not a fan of the louvers, but she likes them. Should look pretty good with the decklid panel and Raxiom Icons. I want to do the o/r Mac Prochamber and Flowmaster 10's, but she prefers the sound of the manga flow dual conversion kit with the stock cats. Whatever floats her boat. I see this being a topic of heated discussion before we purchase.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/build-list.html?build=129554
Sent from my iPad using Mustang Evolution
Pretty much the same thing here as far as the CAI and the coil. The TB might make a little difference or maybe not but look into the Windstar intake swap for a 3.8L, that DOES make a difference. Stay away from SR CC plates as was already mentioned. As for the 1/4 scoops, I highly HIGHLY suggest you take a look at them in person if you can on someone else's car or look at a bunch of different google image pics. They really look like crap on a SN95 car and they also are a bit dangerous because now you can't see out of those windows. Giant blind spot.
If you're gonna be spending this kinda money on things I have a few suggestions.
1 Don't get the SR performance TB and plenum combo. They're crap. Get the summit racing 75mm TB and plenum combo. Better quality and made by trick flow.
2 don't get the SR performance CC plates. They rattle very bad and can come apart. maximum Motorsport or nothing.
3 don't get the SR performance cold air intake. They rust and heat soak very well. That's all they're about good for. JLT full length CAI or stock with paper filter. Can't really beat either.
4 skip the BBk upper and lower control arm kit. They have poly bushings and if you ever corner even the slightest bit too hard they can put a ton of stress on the body and rip the mounts out of the unibody. Get maximum motorpsorts or steeda with spherical bearings or 3 piece poly ball bushings. Much better control of the rear axle and less stress. Skip the uppers completely unless you're just drag racing only.
Just my 2¢
Sent from my iPhone using Mustang Evolution
If he is getting the Eddy intake, he will need the Eddy elbow and then a TB of choice. I already recommended he get the MHS full setup if he is going that route but a replacement PI intake will be better if his is broken or just leave the stock intake on there. PI intake makes a little more bottom end in the lower RPM range which is what these motors need and with around a 6k redline, they can't even make use of the Eddy intake anyway.
Obviously agree with the CC plates and CAI and the uppers but NOT about the spherical or 3 piece poly uppers. Uppers should honestly be left alone unless one is broken and then it should be replaced with stock. Only time the uppers should come out is for a 3 link, a 5 link or an IRS swap. Which if he is going to spend all this money on these cars already is something he might want to look into.
If these posts sounds like I'm being an ***, I am not, I'm just trying to save someone from wasting money and making mistakes I did (lots of ppl make) when I was learning. There is a LOT of stuff out there being sold as performance upgrades for these cars that either just aren't or they are badly designed and can cause a lot of issues. A 99-04 GT only needs a few things "bolt on" wise for power and then its all suspension and cosmetics from there until one goes for a supercharger/nitrous/turbo and/or a legit motor buildup.