04 2v longtube install - Mustang Evolution

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Old 06-27-2015, 07:44 PM   #1
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04 2v longtube install

How big of a pain is it to install long tubes? I've had these headers since February and I'm tired of them not being on so I'm getting tempted to tackle the install myself but idk how crazy this is to do
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Old 06-27-2015, 07:50 PM   #2
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It's not so bad , a partner would be helpful.

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Old 06-27-2015, 08:46 PM   #3
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Depends on what brand , what tools , where you going to be working at.

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Old 06-27-2015, 08:48 PM   #4
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Might want to think about doing motor mounts while you're there at the k member and have the engine freed up too.


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Old 06-27-2015, 09:12 PM   #5
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What motor mounts do yall suggest
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Old 06-27-2015, 09:28 PM   #6
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And I will probably have access to a lift and an impact
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Old 06-27-2015, 10:34 PM   #7
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I did mine in my driveway, with just jack stands and a jack. Also replaced the mounts with polyurethane ones and put a PA racing Tubular K member on. Was it a PITA? Yes no question. Is it impossible? Not at all. Take time and plan at least a whole day maybe two depending on your experience and knowledge. Yes a partner helps out tremendously.


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Old 06-27-2015, 10:58 PM   #8
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Do you really have remove your wheels, brakes, springs, spindles and steering shaft and stuff?
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Old 06-28-2015, 12:28 AM   #9
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Dropped my whole k member , and lowered engine on the ground .. it's enough room to put everything on ..

Use ford oem gaskets , stage 8 locking bolts on as many as you can get to..

Motor mounts just get them from ford. Oem parts.

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Old 06-28-2015, 12:45 AM   #10
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You drop the whole K. Also a good time to do the K if you have the scratch. UPR for weight savings/drag, Max Motorsports for handling/best quality.


Stage 8 locking bolts on ALL of them, you can get to them all with the K out.


Motor mounts... lol no not OEM. OEM uses little rubber pads in between the metal plates. Energy Suspension poly ones or don't even bother. Get the mounts and the trans mount too, you can buy them on Jegs or Summit. Don't get the AM ones or the Prothanes, those are **** quality urethane and also raise the engine up higher than stock. Energy keeps it spot on.


Now for the longtubes... if they aren't Kooks or ARH I wouldn't bother. If they are the Pacesetters or Pypes I REALLY wouldn't bother.
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Old 06-28-2015, 01:53 AM   #11
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I dropped the whole k member, its not a pita it just takes alot of time. I did mine by myself in 3 days working about 5 hours a day. I got poly motor mounts, when i pulled my old ones out the rubber was all messed up and the motor mounts made a huge improvement i used the stage 8 header bolts only on the studs that came out during the install, about 4-5 came out when i removed the old headers. On the bolts that came off the old studs without taking the whole studs out i used split washers to keep the bolts on there and no leaks yet, i used ford racing manifold gaskets from AM. Just plan everything and make sure you have all the tools. Good luck


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Old 06-28-2015, 10:06 AM   #12
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It's not hard, just drop the k-member and the headers are gonna be right there in your face. Took me and one other friend 5 hours to install on a lift.


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Old 06-28-2015, 11:39 AM   #13
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I'm gonna be on it non stop all day so I have the time, and i have access to a drive on lift so that's just the same as using jack stands if I'm dropping the k member..

Not saying I have pacesetter.. But I know they used to be **** quality but I got a set of longtubes for my drag truck about 6-7 months ago and they were really nice, decent gains on the dyno, no leaky welds or anything like that.. Any longtube has gotta be better than stock manifolds.. And why pay 1200$ for kooks when you can get a set for 300-400 and maybe get 2 hp less
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Old 06-28-2015, 01:08 PM   #14
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Is there a how to anywhere on how to drop the k?
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Old 06-28-2015, 01:13 PM   #15
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http://www.modularfords.com/threads/...6/topics/27083

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Old 06-28-2015, 02:03 PM   #16
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Thanks jeno, so you think it's doable with just 4 jack stands? No lift and an impact?
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Old 06-28-2015, 02:14 PM   #17
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Sure if your mechanically inclined definitely doable but better with a helper

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Old 06-28-2015, 02:25 PM   #18
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I'll have my future father in law who was a mechanic for 25+ years to help so I think we can get her done
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Old 06-28-2015, 02:26 PM   #19
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Should be no problem then maybe some stubborn bolts

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Old 06-28-2015, 03:14 PM   #20
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Nothing an impact can't fix lol
This isn't exactly related but I deleted my EGR the other day would that cause a slight gas smell on start up or when you get on it
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Old 06-28-2015, 03:18 PM   #21
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Don't know still have my egr did you tune to compensate for the deleted egr

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Old 06-28-2015, 03:58 PM   #22
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Nope I just got it done Friday lol haven't had a tune yet gonna tune after I get the headers on probably if not then I will once the cams get installed because it will be a must
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Old 06-28-2015, 03:59 PM   #23
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Don't forget to tune for egr

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Old 06-28-2015, 04:03 PM   #24
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Oh I will, I'm gonna tune to remove the EGR and no cats cause I now have codes for both
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Old 06-28-2015, 04:09 PM   #25
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Good deal

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Old 06-28-2015, 04:13 PM   #26
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Any other pointers or tips with this install?
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Old 06-28-2015, 04:26 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keeney35 View Post
I'm gonna be on it non stop all day so I have the time, and i have access to a drive on lift so that's just the same as using jack stands if I'm dropping the k member..

Not saying I have pacesetter.. But I know they used to be **** quality but I got a set of longtubes for my drag truck about 6-7 months ago and they were really nice, decent gains on the dyno, no leaky welds or anything like that.. Any longtube has gotta be better than stock manifolds.. And why pay 1200$ for kooks when you can get a set for 300-400 and maybe get 2 hp less
Because the expensive ones won't rust away and decay lol
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Old 06-28-2015, 04:27 PM   #28
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Mine are pacesetter , great fit.

Wasn't going to spend 700+ on headers that are only going to give me 5-10 hp


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Old 06-28-2015, 05:06 PM   #29
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Any other pointers or tips with this install?
Sounds like you'll be fine just take your time and don't rush it piece of cake

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Old 06-28-2015, 05:46 PM   #30
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Got the car up, working on taking off the O2 sensors snd h pipe now. Got the intake off, I'm not gonna drop the K, the instructions that came with the headers seem like they will work without dropping the k they just mention unbolted the motor and tranny mounts and moving them to slide each header in placeClick image for larger version

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Old 06-28-2015, 05:51 PM   #31
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Sounds good man you have plenty of room to work in

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Old 06-28-2015, 10:17 PM   #32
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Got the exhaust from the manifolds back out, had to stop and eat dinner and go get more beer lol Click image for larger version

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The more I read I'm wondering if I shouldn't drop the k.. But I haven't found a good thread on how.. But does that mean k have to remove both wheels, brakes and all that good stuff?
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Old 06-28-2015, 10:20 PM   #33
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Just do yourself the favor and drop the k member its just 8 bolts to drop it, dropping the k member is gonna save you alot of time.


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Old 06-28-2015, 10:48 PM   #34
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Do I have to do the brakes and all of that before I drop it or can I just do those 8 bolts and go
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Old 06-28-2015, 10:51 PM   #35
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Take the brakes out, take the 2 strut to spindle bolts out, take the springs out and you're good to go


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