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Old 07-04-2015, 11:46 PM   #1
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2000 Mustang get wont crank!

I have a 2000 mustang gt that will not try to start. So what happened is I was out and about and I got in my car and started it up. Everything was fine but about a mile down the road my car lights started flashing and car began to die, then everything shut off. So I'm out looking around my car and look under the car and my ground wire was cut and only on by 2 strands. So I replaced the ground wire and it still would refuse to start. Then I went and bought a new battery and it still would not start even with a jump. So then I get the starter out and test it. Nothing wrong. Check all my fuses nothing wrong there. So at this point I'm not sure what else it could be. So if anyone knows please help me or point me in the direction of getting this fixed. And like I said it won't even crank. It sounds like the starter hits but does not spin my flywheel. I believe I have covered most of what I can explain. Ask more questions if you need I just want this fixed.
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Old 07-05-2015, 12:11 AM   #2
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When you removed the starter, how did you test it?
When you turn the key to start the engine, does the starter make a clicking sound? Or does it sound like the starter is spinning and not engaging the flywheel?
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Old 07-05-2015, 09:14 AM   #3
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Mine caused all of those problems a couple weeks ago and it was the alternator

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Old 07-05-2015, 09:16 AM   #4
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does it turn over at all? you need to check the fuses in the passenger compartment as well.
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Old 07-05-2015, 10:11 AM   #5
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I took it to a starter shop and he tested it. Also it's not a click it's more like a cluck when I turn the key to start it. Would the alternator be the problem if it has a new battery and starter? Because that only charges the battery while running. Yes I checked all the fuses even tried jumping the starter to bypass the relay.
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Old 07-05-2015, 05:24 PM   #6
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Hmmm.
Verify that the engine is not locked up by putting a socket on the bolt that holds the balancer/pulley on the crankshaft and try rotating the engine. There should be a fair amount of resistance but the engine should turn relatively freely.
If that checks out good, you need to carefully inspect the positive cable to the starter. And, recheck the grounds to be sure that everything has a good clean connection.
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Old 07-05-2015, 09:24 PM   #7
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I can try that, now what if my engine is locked up? I tired again today and it started cranking really slow but then went back to not cranking at all.
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Old 07-05-2015, 09:34 PM   #8
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If the starter was spinning the engine, it is likely that your engine is not locked up.

Im trying to get you to eliminate all of the obvious things... Before I tell you that I think that the starter shop dude was wrong, and that you need to replace your starter.
It's really down to a wiring problem or your starter has failed.
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Old 07-06-2015, 07:51 AM   #9
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I think I'm going to buy a new starter and test it that way. It is the original starter so you never know. The dude tested it like 10 times but who knows it may not have any power left.
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Old 07-06-2015, 07:34 PM   #10
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starter

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Originally Posted by mnotestone View Post
I think I'm going to buy a new starter and test it that way. It is the original starter so you never know. The dude tested it like 10 times but who knows it may not have any power left.
Most of the shops that test starters do not test them with a load on them. Remember that the starter turns the flywheel and everything else that rotates.
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Old 07-07-2015, 10:21 AM   #11
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Yes they did test it with no load on it lol. And I do understand what the starter does. And I believe I'm going to have to do that. I talked to the guy at the starter shop and he said " I would love to sell you a starter but I don't think that's your problem." And i was like well why spend money if he is sure lol.
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Old 07-07-2015, 10:23 AM   #12
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Try spinning the engine over by hand via socket and breaker bar on crank bolt.
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Old 07-07-2015, 11:40 AM   #13
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Try spinning the engine over by hand via socket and breaker bar on crank bolt.
I had to do this with my Expy after I let it sit for 3 months outside while I was deployed. I doubt that is his problem if it just stopped one day.

I vote weak starter or a wiring problem. Solenoid?
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Old 07-07-2015, 08:14 PM   #14
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A good starter guy will know right away with a no load test if the motor is good or not just by the sound, speed and the reaction of the motor when tested.

If you have ever bench tested a good starter motor, you know you better hang on to it because it will jerk or jump.

i'm voting wiring based on the given information.
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Old 07-07-2015, 08:20 PM   #15
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The only reason why i am stating to do so is to make sure it isn't vapor locked..
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Old 07-07-2015, 08:21 PM   #16
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Yeah this starter guy has been in the business for ever, but I'm going to test all my fusable links to make sure. I had another guy come out that does electrical work on cars and he said everything looked good that he could tell on my ground and said all that looked good. We cleaned up wires and terminals. He said it almost sounds hydro locked. But I don't see how in the world that would happen.
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Old 07-07-2015, 08:24 PM   #17
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I tried to crank it over with a socket and it just tightened the bolt
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Old 07-07-2015, 08:30 PM   #18
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Remove all your spark plugs then try to turn it over, disconnect the coil packs as well when doing this... IT should then be able to turn over.

My guess is that it's vapor locked, once the ground wire lost connection, it cut off spark but kept the injectors firing....


hints vapor lock. Don't try to turn it over again until you do so, you don't want to bend a rod or anything
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Old 07-07-2015, 08:36 PM   #19
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Ok. Remove all of the spark plugs and try to rotate the crankshaft with them out. Spin it through two complete revolutions and stop every so often to have a look at the spark plug bores. Watch for any liquid in the bores.
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Old 07-07-2015, 08:38 PM   #20
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If you tried to turn it over and nothing happened... definitely locked. Pull all your plugs and try again.


This would be a really good time to do your plugs btw... lol. Remember to actually torque them back in to 15 ft lbs with an actual torque wrench. Would suck to fix one problem and then strip a head.
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Old 07-07-2015, 08:43 PM   #21
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Remove all your spark plugs then try to turn it over, disconnect the coil packs as well when doing this... IT should then be able to turn over.

My guess is that it's vapor locked, once the ground wire lost connection, it cut off spark but kept the injectors firing....


hints vapor lock. Don't try to turn it over again until you do so, you don't want to bend a rod or anything
What you are referring to is called "hydro locked". That is when the cylinder becomes filled with liquid on the compression stroke, and there is no way that the piston can move.

Vapor lock is when fuel begins to boil, generally in a fuel line, and it is prevented from entering, typically, a carburetor.
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Old 07-08-2015, 11:10 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by straybullitt View Post
What you are referring to is called "hydro locked". That is when the cylinder becomes filled with liquid on the compression stroke, and there is no way that the piston can move.

Vapor lock is when fuel begins to boil, generally in a fuel line, and it is prevented from entering, typically, a carburetor.

You are correct, just vapor locked sounded better lol
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Old 07-13-2015, 10:07 AM   #23
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Well I found the problem, drained the oil and metal flakes were all throughout the oil so we all know that problem. Just updating if anyone else has this problem.
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Old 07-13-2015, 11:12 AM   #24
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Time for a rebuild

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Old 07-13-2015, 07:16 PM   #25
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I may just buy a new engine lol
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Old 07-13-2015, 08:02 PM   #26
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I paid $575 shipped for a 38k mile PI engine. From a Vic... which will be identical once you transfer all your Mustang stuff from your blown one to it. May need a new intake like mine did, all PI intakes crack and leak over time even metal crossover ones.
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Old 07-13-2015, 08:16 PM   #27
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Where did you get the engine scotty


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Old 07-14-2015, 06:59 AM   #28
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Local yard. They had it listed on car-part.com

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