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Old 08-23-2015, 02:09 PM   #1
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'01 GT Resto

I'm planning on buying a new mustang, likely a special edition model depending on what Ford puts out, but I want to keep my '01 GT and restore/build it over the next couple of years. I'm the original owner and my father helped by matching my down payment, so the car is a little special to me. In fact, I love the damn thing!

I plan on doing the paint/body first and then will likely use MM to complete the suspension, but I wanted to know what my options were for an engine build. I talked to the guys at B&D Racing here in Los Angeles briefly when I had my subframes installed, but I want to plan things out before I go back and talk to them.

They said I'm looking at 8-9K to maybe 13K depending on what I want to do. I want to set it up for drag racing, but keep it street/smog legal as well as a decent daily driver. I was thinking 400+ at the wheels would make me happy, and I want to keep it as an auto.

I'm willing to go big and drop some change, but I want to be able to drive it reliably for 5+ years minimum.

Thoughts/suggestions?


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Old 08-23-2015, 03:37 PM   #2
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If there's nothing wrong with the motor and has reasonable miles drop on a super charger and a tune and you'll be at 400 hp

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Old 08-23-2015, 04:10 PM   #3
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It's almost at 150K, and definitely doesn't run as strong as it used to. I think a blower would simply blow it up


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Old 08-23-2015, 04:47 PM   #4
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Do a leak down and compression test see where its at then go from there there's people running way more miles and a blower for gobs of miles and still no issues why waste money if not needed

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Old 08-23-2015, 11:05 PM   #5
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Yeah if I can get away with only doing that, then definitely. I'll look into it, thanks.


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Old 08-24-2015, 12:05 AM   #6
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Sounds like an awesome build. Ive thought about doing this to my 96 GT. Its cosmeticaly solid, could use some paint work in the next few years but actuaully looks really good, no rust, some fading and a touch of spidering on the front bumper but none of its noticeable. I want rebuild the motor and add a sc one day or build the motor NA and have around 300 or a little more to the wheels, either way its a ton of money to acheive that. This car is sentimental to me as well thats the only reason why i havent sold it yet to upgrade. Its a nice car with low miles has quite a bit as far as suspension already done to it, gears, exhuast, etc but just not enough power anymore for me. Im thinking the same as you, dump a few grand in even tho i know its not worth it but i will enjoy it for years and i can always get a newer one too at some point. Anyway i like your plans and its not wasting money to me to do something to a car that you love, i get it all the way. Looking forward to your build.

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Old 08-24-2015, 03:23 AM   #7
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Thanks buddy! The way I feel now, I'll never get rid of it. I'll definitely share my progress once I get things going. Good luck with your car as well.


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Old 08-24-2015, 09:06 AM   #8
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For 400 at the wheels, get a low mileage replacement motor from a Crown Vic/Marquis/Town Car and supercharge it. That'll be between 380 and 420 through an auto and run really good times at the strip seeing as it is an auto. The factory motor is safe at 425-450 to the wheels with a good tune so if all you want is 400 then it will be fine.


For the trans, find a low mileage takeout 4R75w from a 2004 Mustang GT/Mach automatic and J-mod it. The 4R75w is good for 600+ to the wheels easy in factory form so no need to go nuts with a built trans there. Obviously you will want a good stall converter to take advantage of the supercharger.


You can do 400hp in a modular for fairly cheap with a lot of factory parts basically is what I am saying. Supercharger and fuel as well as suspension and body work is where the money is going to get spent.


Suspension wise the front does need some help but not like the rear. Depending on what your budget is, if you are limited I would do the rear first and just put CC plates/lowering springs/struts up front till the back is sorted. Options out back are the traditional torque arm/panhard bar setup, the Steeda 5 link (modified 4 link with panhard bar), and the Cobra IRS swap with a good bushing kit. Pick your poison, they all work really well.
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Old 08-24-2015, 01:20 PM   #9
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@Scotty

What kind of reliability can I expect with that setup? And if I wanted to go a little crazy, say 500 or so, what else might I need to consider? Would all these options be legal in CA?


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Old 08-24-2015, 01:26 PM   #10
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'01 GT Resto

And I have some suspension goodies already- Steeda sports (will eventually switch to a coil-over setup), Steeda rear lower control arms, Tokico illuminas, MM cc plates, and 275/315 MT street comps. I'll finish the suspension right after I do the paint/body work.


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Old 08-24-2015, 01:27 PM   #11
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@Scotty

What kind of reliability can I expect with that setup? And if I wanted to go a little crazy, say 500 or so, what else might I need to consider? Would all these options be legal in CA?


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Is anything legal in cali anymore?

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Old 08-24-2015, 01:31 PM   #12
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Is anything legal in cali anymore?

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Ha!


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Old 08-24-2015, 01:36 PM   #13
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If this helps, I'm a soon-to-be CPA working in Los Angeles, so as long as it's worthwhile - crazy power that will last and not break down if I take it on a road trip - I'll drop the change. If it's up to me, I'll probably never get rid of the car.


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Old 08-24-2015, 01:59 PM   #14
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@Scotty

What kind of reliability can I expect with that setup? And if I wanted to go a little crazy, say 500 or so, what else might I need to consider? Would all these options be legal in CA?


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Well with a stock motor and trans I should think so. Vortech Superchargers are 50 state legal and do come with CARB numbers. As for the other mods, leave the stock manifolds alone to avoid any CARB issues and most catbacks will be CARB legal as well, you will need to check. As for the mid pipe... recommend you keep the stock mid pipe to swap in for emissions days even if you have a catted aftermarket pipe because they are jackasses about that sort of thing or so I hear. You don't really need anything else as far as power mods with the stock motor so the rest will be suspension and body stuff.

As for 500, that will need a built motor. As long as you get one built that can pass smog and the cams sound "stock" you shouldn't have any problems but I would talk to some ppl from California or another state with stringent tests. Here in NJ, we just plug into the OBD2 port and as long as the emissions equipment comes back good they slap a sticker on and good for 2 years.

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Old 08-24-2015, 06:56 PM   #15
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I definitely appreciate all the help, thanks. Looking forward to posting my progress.


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Old 08-24-2015, 07:23 PM   #16
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As far as reliability, that is all in the tune. Some ppl want to push the envelope a bit. Get a good tuner and LISTEN to him/her. Too many ppl want a certain power number on the dyno and have it in their head that the whole project will be a failure if it doesn't get there. Let the tuner dial it in to the max safe limit of the motor and then take it to the track. People at car shows with dyno sheets and no timeslips are a sad bunch.
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Old 08-24-2015, 07:33 PM   #17
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Absolutely. The guys at B&D have a good rep. I found out about them by reading MM&FF; they tuned a featured Terminator. Reviews were good online, so I called them to do my subs. The only downside is that they're hard to get ahold of.


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Old 08-25-2015, 01:08 PM   #18
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One last thing...

I was wondering if it's possible to get an OEM Mach hood setup, rather than keep the cool-looking but nonfunctional Bullitt hood. I really like that look paired with an 99/01 Cobra bumper. Would I need the 3V for it to work? I ask because you mentioned getting a trans from a Mach. I thought that if I could find that trans, perhaps I can find the hood scoop setup as well.


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Old 08-25-2015, 02:33 PM   #19
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You'd have to find someone parting out a wrecked Mach and get the whole setup. It can be adapted to the 2V in your car, there was actually a conversion kit made years ago by CDC, I think someone still might make it. I'd love to find one too for my car, the shaker is cool as hell. But I'm not holding my breath TBTH... if one pops up who knows.


Personally, I am planning on getting a Stalker II hood from Cervinis when it comes time to re-spray the whole car along with a 99/01 Cobra front, Mach lip, Mach/Bullitt sail panels, Terminator side skirts, Bullitt side scoops and an aftermarket shaved V6 bumper because I am going to dump/side pipe the exhaust for a 5 link suspension out back.


Yeah... there are just a few ways to go with these cars lol. Just to give you an example of how pretty much everything OEM is compatible with everything else in the same body years.


Also, the Mach was a 4V and uses the same block as the GT, just all aluminum instead of iron. The top end of the motor is what makes it different at the most basic level. The 3V started in 05 on the S197.


When I mentioned the trans from the 04 Mach it was also from an 04 GT, they used the exact same transmission for the autos and the sticks for those years. Just in very very late 03 and all of 04 the autos went to a stronger version for the 04 model year.
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Old 08-26-2015, 12:21 PM   #20
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You'd have to find someone parting out a wrecked Mach and get the whole setup. It can be adapted to the 2V in your car, there was actually a conversion kit made years ago by CDC, I think someone still might make it. I'd love to find one too for my car, the shaker is cool as hell. But I'm not holding my breath TBTH... if one pops up who knows.


Personally, I am planning on getting a Stalker II hood from Cervinis when it comes time to re-spray the whole car along with a 99/01 Cobra front, Mach lip, Mach/Bullitt sail panels, Terminator side skirts, Bullitt side scoops and an aftermarket shaved V6 bumper because I am going to dump/side pipe the exhaust for a 5 link suspension out back.


Yeah... there are just a few ways to go with these cars lol. Just to give you an example of how pretty much everything OEM is compatible with everything else in the same body years.


Also, the Mach was a 4V and uses the same block as the GT, just all aluminum instead of iron. The top end of the motor is what makes it different at the most basic level. The 3V started in 05 on the S197.


When I mentioned the trans from the 04 Mach it was also from an 04 GT, they used the exact same transmission for the autos and the sticks for those years. Just in very very late 03 and all of 04 the autos went to a stronger version for the 04 model year.

I didn't know about that Stalker II hood- that's pretty sick! I'd love to see how it looks in person. I'm gonna check out a mustang show here in SoCal next month so hopefully I'll be able to do a side-by-side.

I remember the CDC one, but I didn't like the extra piece on the hood. I want a clean look similar to 'Sublime' Mach, but perhaps minus the chin spoiler. I think we have similar goals for our new edges, except I want to keep the GT side scoops and do a shaved GT or Cobra bumper 👍🏻

Thanks again. I'll be sure to post my progress.


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Old 08-26-2015, 12:48 PM   #21
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Yep, I just saw the CDC piece on AM. I'm not liking the big hunk of trim on the hood. If I was ever going to do that, it would have to be from a wrecked Mach, grab the Mach hood and shaker assembly and everything.
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Old 08-26-2015, 09:18 PM   #22
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Yep, I just saw the CDC piece on AM. I'm not liking the big hunk of trim on the hood. If I was ever going to do that, it would have to be from a wrecked Mach, grab the Mach hood and shaker assembly and everything.

Is it wrong to say that when the time comes, I hope a few people will have recently wrecked their Machs? 😈


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Old 08-26-2015, 10:17 PM   #23
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People have been wrecking Machs since they released for the 2003 MY unfortunately. I'd just go with the Cervinis anyway. If you've ever driven a Mach, that shaker is very in the way as far as field of vision. And this is coming from a guy who just sold a car with a cowl hood.
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Old 08-26-2015, 11:28 PM   #24
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CPA? Coyote swap!!!



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Old 08-27-2015, 07:10 AM   #25
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CPA? Coyote swap!!!



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I missed that part. He should just find out if his employer qualifies for the X plan and buy a new Coyote lol. Or find one of the cherry used ones floating around.

Or pick up a cream puff first gen S197 GT500.
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Old 08-27-2015, 12:07 PM   #26
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Haha...

You mean just swapping in a new or used coyote?


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Old 08-27-2015, 12:46 PM   #27
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Haha...

You mean just swapping in a new or used coyote?


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Old 08-27-2015, 01:45 PM   #28
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Honestly going from scratch a Coyote swap won't really cost any more than a built 2V and a supercharger.


Actually what will be the BEST bang for the buck would be to sell the 01 completely and get a 2011+ GT. I've done the math many times, for most ppl its actually cheaper just to buy a 2011 Coyote for $20k than it is to find a nice Mustang that is older and build it up to Coyote levels.


Only reason I am not taking my own advice is I got a ridiculously good deal on a 2000 that already came with a blower and suspension and fuel and a lot of extra stuffs for $5500. I will be into it for under $10k for a 425-450rwhp street car but this is not a route I would recommend for someone who does not know these cars... which is exactly how I got it so cheap. The guy who I bought it from had 0 clue about anything having to do with these cars. And that's why he blew it up.
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Old 08-27-2015, 03:03 PM   #29
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http://www.americanmuscle.com/coyote-engine-swap.html

So pretty much just get one of these bad boys?

@Scotty

I'm the original owner and my dad helped a little to get the car, so I'm willing to spend a little extra for the sentimental value.


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Old 08-27-2015, 06:19 PM   #30
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Well there is much more to it than just the motor. Need a $1500 harness and $700 worth of brackets and $2k worth of exhaust and a few other things and then the tune and building up the rest of the car around the motor.

Like I said, cheaper to just buy a 2011 and you get a whole lot more car too.
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Old 08-27-2015, 11:33 PM   #31
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Well there is much more to it than just the motor. Need a $1500 harness and $700 worth of brackets and $2k worth of exhaust and a few other things and then the tune and building up the rest of the car around the motor.

Like I said, cheaper to just buy a 2011 and you get a whole lot more car too.

I'm ok with that. When the time comes, I'll either go with the coyote or what you recommended earlier.

I plan on getting a '16 or '17 model, so I'll get a whole lot more car then




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Old 08-28-2015, 06:38 AM   #32
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If you plan on getting a 16 model just drive what you have now and take good care of it and put it towards the new car in a year or so. That is if you are intending on selling this one anyway.
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Old 08-28-2015, 08:06 AM   #33
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I'm still gonna keep the '01 and get the new one with a manual. I'm gonna do the paint/body on the '01, then get a '16 or '17, then finish the suspension and then the engine on the '01, and eventually do something crazy with the new one. And finally, eventually an old fastback before I call it quits for a while.


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Old 08-28-2015, 04:30 PM   #34
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Sounds like a good enough plan to me. You can never have too many Mustangs.

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