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Old 09-01-2015, 08:40 AM   #1
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Many questions that I will be asking soon to get the car where I want it to be.
Bought the car really cheap knowing it had some quirks from a wife's friend in VA, I live in TX. Was having a oil pressure issue. I replaced the sending unit and put on a manual gauge and flushed the oil and changed the filter. The oil kept good pressure when running, at idle it would drop but still show on the guage. Started on the trip and changed the filter a couple times just to be safe in case they filled up with who knows what.

It has an aftermarket exhaust unknown mfg but it is throaty and loud, KN cold air filter, and 20" with 1/2 good tires aftermarket rims (said he paid $3500 for tires and rims, current replacement tires are $380 ea) as well as the original rims with decent tires, the spoiler broke off at the clips when kids pushed the car. The battery has a drain that will suck the life out of it in 2 weeks.

Four hundred miles into the trip the pressure dropped to 0 and stayed there. Pulled off the road and changed the filter and pulled the sensor and it was getting flow but the oil was nasty black, and the engine had a noise.
Mechanic in NC said it was the oil pump and the timing chain making the noise. Just had the pony transported home a week later, not fixed to do the work myself instead of replacing the engine that the mechanic wanted to do...AAA service center that is all they do.

Drained the oil it was black but not a lot of metal but some floating.

For the cost I can afford to do a little repair and still come out ahead. The car runs strong and can shred the tires...the front brakes were stuck from sitting a little bit. I fixed that issue before driving, working the disc calipers to free them up.

This is my first mustang and muscle car and I am loving it.
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Old 09-01-2015, 10:12 AM   #2
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I would drop the oil pan and check the bearings and rods your oil pressure dropped to zero man sounds like your engine is hurting

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Old 09-01-2015, 10:28 AM   #3
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Yes I am planning to pull the pan to check the bearings and crank when I have the pan off to replace the oil pump and pickup. The pump is pumping oil when I removed the sending unit. The mechanics think the oiler on the timing chain blew or became loose and all the pressure is escaping and that is why the timing chain is clanking. They didn't do a complete internal inspection, they don't do any internal repairs they replace whole pieces. I didn't want to drop 6k to replace the engine. Cheaper to send the car back broken the 1200 miles and repair it myself.
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Old 09-01-2015, 10:31 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drewjunr View Post
Yes I am planning to pull the pan to check the bearings and crank when I have the pan off to replace the oil pump and pickup. The pump is pumping oil when I removed the sending unit. The mechanics think the oiler on the timing chain blew or became loose and all the pressure is escaping and that is why the timing chain is clanking. They didn't do a complete internal inspection, they don't do any internal repairs they replace whole pieces. I didn't want to drop 6k to replace the engine. Cheaper to send the car back broken the 1200 miles and repair it myself.
Cool just don't want you to throw a rod and welcome aboard

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Old 09-01-2015, 11:51 AM   #5
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What year Mustang do you have?
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Old 09-01-2015, 11:52 AM   #6
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2002 Mustang GT
Paid $1,000 I just need to work through the quirks now.
They installed a new battery also and gave me the Interstate battery that was installed the previous year. Interstate was still good just drained to nothing...the new battery drained to nothing in a week also.

Has Donz wheels running 255 and 295 tires.
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Old 09-01-2015, 12:52 PM   #7
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Sounds like the alternator is charging it or you have something running and killing the battery

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Old 09-01-2015, 01:31 PM   #8
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Welcome to the forum drew!!!

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Old 09-02-2015, 12:43 AM   #9
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How does it feel riding on the 20" rims? Seems like it'd be pretty rough. Not nearly as rough as $380 a tire, though. Yikes!


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Old 09-02-2015, 09:41 AM   #10
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That car needs a motor swap. Metal in the oil and pressure problems. Its shot. Good news is that PI motors are a dime a dozen and a motor pulls are not very hard on a SN95 based car.
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Old 09-02-2015, 09:55 AM   #11
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I still have the factory pulling straps off my 97 Cobra which makes it a snap unless you take it out from the bottom.
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Old 09-02-2015, 10:07 AM   #12
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Welcome to the forum!
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Old 09-02-2015, 10:27 AM   #13
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I still have the factory pulling straps off my 97 Cobra which makes it a snap unless you take it out from the bottom.
I use a load leveler. For the PI, bolt to the alternator mounting ears on the block and remove the PI intake and bolt the rear chains to the top bellhousing bolts. I pull the whole shebang with the trans attached. So much easier that way.
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Old 09-02-2015, 11:17 AM   #14
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I have rebuilt 4 cyl before...20 yrs ago, rebuilt one at an apartment once have the knowledge and tools. Will pull the bearings and if the are bad replace them, if they are not worn at all and it is just the timing guides that are ruined then I will slap a new kit in and get it back on the road, replacing the oil pump and strainer while I am in there no matter what. Hopefully the crank is not gouged and can just replace the bearings.
I plan on changing the oil filter a lot after it gets running to filter out as much metal as possible so it doesn't fill it up. This will be a good time to see what is on the valve springs also, hopefully not full of crud. Plan to tear into it on this holiday weekend. Will take pics if bad or good.
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Old 09-02-2015, 11:45 AM   #15
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Just remember like scotty said you can get an entire 4.6 2v motor ready to drop in probably lower mileage for like 700 bucks from a pick n pull. If ur parts exceeds that...think about it

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Old 09-02-2015, 12:05 PM   #16
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I paid $575 for a 38k mile PI motor delivered to my house.

The oil pump is not in the pan on these btw, but its still not all that hard to get at. Its on the front of the motor.

I'd also much rather pull the motor and work with everything on a stand vs dropping the K to get the pan off and do the bearings on my back which might or might not fix the issue.

I still say just get a whole new motor. And then part out the old motor and make most of the $$$ back. PI heads with cams in good shape are $200, get $100 for the block, $50 for the crank, if the intake is still in good shape and the new motor might come with a good set of COPs on it like mine did which you can sell for $50-$100.

This is how I am going to try to get a "free" engine once I get this old engine out this weekend.
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Old 10-02-2015, 12:04 PM   #17
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Nothing that a good cleaning and a couple parts can't fix. Car runs strong as ever and has plenty of oil pressure now. Too early to just toss it aside.
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Old 10-02-2015, 12:22 PM   #18
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Nothing that a good cleaning and a couple parts can't fix. Car runs strong as ever and has plenty of oil pressure now. Too early to just toss it aside.
never have I cringed to the point of twinge at a dinge from internal singe.
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