HELP ! Clutch Pedal Hard After Install - Mustang Evolution

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Old 09-12-2015, 12:42 PM   #1
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HELP ! Clutch Pedal Hard After Install

Yesterday I installed a UPR clutch cable kit, and now my pedal is super stiff. I pretty much would have to stand on it to get the pedal to get down. What could be the problem.[IMG]
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Old 09-12-2015, 10:17 PM   #2
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Double check for binding cable down at the fork on transmission. What kind of clutch do you have installed in your mustang?


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Old 09-12-2015, 11:38 PM   #3
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Ive heard on here many issues when using aftermarket clutch cable kits.

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Old 09-13-2015, 09:11 AM   #4
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Double check for binding cable down at the fork on transmission. What kind of clutch do you have installed in your mustang?


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I have a stage 1 clutch in here that i put in about 2 months ago. maybe the cable is binding somewhere even thou i put it in the same way
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Old 09-13-2015, 09:22 AM   #5
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Ive heard on here many issues when using aftermarket clutch cable kits.

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I have a steeda cable adjustable cable in my mustang and it works fine. I did replace a cheap SR branded cable that came apart when I did do the install of the steeda cable.


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Old 09-14-2015, 11:37 AM   #6
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How quickly does the pedal return after you push it down?


Does it move the same distance as a normal clutch pedal, but just harder to do?


People need to elaborate more on their problems when they make a post, honestly. Nothing can be accomplished here without a detailed description of what is going on. It should be about 5 well orchestrated sentences giving us a sequence of events on when you push the clutch in.
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Old 09-14-2015, 12:37 PM   #7
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Its because you used an aftermarket cable. Put the OEM one back in there or put a new OEM one in there and it'll feel normal again. Aftermarket cables are junk, ALL of them.
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Old 09-17-2015, 01:02 AM   #8
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OP, do you have a picture of the cable where it connects into the fork? Did you thread the nuts less than halfway? From the looks of it, your FWA (Firewall Adjuster) is screwed waaaay in.

Try unscrewing the FWA until you get the threads exposed as the pic below:

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Old 09-17-2015, 01:05 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Panther140 View Post
How quickly does the pedal return after you push it down?


Does it move the same distance as a normal clutch pedal, but just harder to do?


People need to elaborate more on their problems when they make a post, honestly. Nothing can be accomplished here without a detailed description of what is going on. It should be about 5 well orchestrated sentences giving us a sequence of events on when you push the clutch in.
I hear ya. But you have to understand that the end user might be a little flustered due to their situation and why they are seeking for help. I know that I'm guilty of not exerting my issues in the correct manner at times as well. We just have to be a little more understanding.
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Old 09-17-2015, 09:46 AM   #10
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I hear ya. But you have to understand that the end user might be a little flustered due to their situation and why they are seeking for help. I know that I'm guilty of not exerting my issues in the correct manner at times as well. We just have to be a little more understanding.

Plus ppl that are posting the questions there level of mechanical experience might not tell them what all info is needed or is relevant


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Old 09-17-2015, 10:02 AM   #11
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Except we already know his problem, its the aftermarket cable. Seriously.
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Old 09-18-2015, 04:33 PM   #12
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Except we already know his problem, its the aftermarket cable. Seriously.


not you but their are people on here who try to show how much smarter they are than the op,seems like its always the same one.
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Old 09-20-2015, 12:20 PM   #13
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How quickly does the pedal return after you push it down?


Does it move the same distance as a normal clutch pedal, but just harder to do?


People need to elaborate more on their problems when they make a post, honestly. Nothing can be accomplished here without a detailed description of what is going on. It should be about 5 well orchestrated sentences giving us a sequence of events on when you push the clutch in.
The cable moves the same distance is just seems extremely hard to press. It returns at the same speed as normal.
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Old 09-20-2015, 12:21 PM   #14
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Its because you used an aftermarket cable. Put the OEM one back in there or put a new OEM one in there and it'll feel normal again. Aftermarket cables are junk, ALL of them.
Thanks yea i brought a kit. just to get the Firewall adjuster and the quadrant. my OEM cable had popped.
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Old 09-20-2015, 12:26 PM   #15
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not you but their are people on here who try to show how much smarter they are than the op,seems like its always the same one.
Lol Thanks for the back-up When I'm asking a question on a forms I'm not sure what information is needed to help find the conclusion that's why people ask for help. Because if i knew to look for as much as he asked i may have found my own problem..

---------- Post added at 01:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:25 PM ----------

The Cable Kit I am using is from UPR
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Old 09-20-2015, 03:02 PM   #16
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If it is hard to push, but returns like normal, I am going to also point to the cable.

Make sure it doesn't have any kinks or tight bends in it. It should get you through until you can get an OEM one in there. Im not sure what the end of th UPR cable looks like, but see if you can spray some oil into it-- It might help make it tolerable.

What happens with some of these cables is they bind up inside of the cable housing because the sizes and materials are not as well designed as OEM. They use sketchy suppliers for their parts as well. Then after the cable starts binding within the sheath, it starts to damage the actual cable-- Gets frayed and then its a total mess.
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Old 09-20-2015, 04:50 PM   #17
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Thanks yea i brought a kit. just to get the Firewall adjuster and the quadrant. my OEM cable had popped.
The OEM setup is totally fine as long as nothing is broke. I would have just put in a new OEM cable and called it good tbth.

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Old 09-22-2015, 01:00 PM   #18
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The OEM setup is totally fine as long as nothing is broke. I would have just put in a new OEM cable and called it good tbth.

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Is my cable routed wrong ?

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...0/image1_2.jpg
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Old 09-22-2015, 01:05 PM   #19
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IF someone could provide some good detail pictures of how the cable should be routed that would be great can't find no good pictures online, guess because its sn95
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Old 09-22-2015, 01:15 PM   #20
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Well it shouldn't be under the sway bar like that but even as it sits, unless it is pinched somewhere it will work normally. Except its a UPR cable...


Once again, I'm going to bet your problem is the aftermarket cable itself, they are terrible. Going from OEM to aftermarket is a DOWNGRADE you pay for.
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Old 09-22-2015, 01:25 PM   #21
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Well it shouldn't be under the sway bar like that but even as it sits, unless it is pinched somewhere it will work normally. Except its a UPR cable...


Once again, I'm going to bet your problem is the aftermarket cable itself, they are terrible. Going from OEM to aftermarket is a DOWNGRADE you pay for.

Yea, i know i seen many people say the aftermarket cables are junk, I got the cable to press much easier this way..... I will still be ordering another OEM cable to have on back-up since i got thru cable every few months.
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Old 09-22-2015, 01:29 PM   #22
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You should not be going through cables that often, something else is wrong then. An OEM cable should last YEARS but if you are going through parts store cables every few months... well that is not totally abnormal.

Take a look at the attached pic. The top is a parts store/aftermarket cable. Bottom is an OEM. This clearly illustrates why the aftermarket cables are terribad.
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Old 09-22-2015, 01:57 PM   #23
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Just a thought but push up on your clutch fork incase it slid off the pivot ball


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Old 09-23-2015, 04:38 PM   #24
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Just a thought but push up on your clutch fork incase it slid off the pivot ball


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Ok. Guys so today i went out re-routed the Cable and before I hooked it to the transmission I went to press in the clutch pedal. The pedal basically went straight down to the floor with no force. Which would make me think there is no BLINDS.

But the second we get in hooked up the the fork, I go and press in the clutch pedal and it just seems hard like to hard for me to press which sitting down really.

Any Ideas ?
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Old 09-23-2015, 06:07 PM   #25
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Yeah it's a bad cable... Like I keep saying. Of course it'll work smoothly with no tension on it. The tension the clutch puts on it binds up the aftermarket cables. This is why the OEM cables that have multi layer sheathing are so smooth and the aftermarket ones are not.

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Old 09-23-2015, 07:51 PM   #26
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Yeah it's a bad cable... Like I keep saying. Of course it'll work smoothly with no tension on it. The tension the clutch puts on it binds up the aftermarket cables. This is why the OEM cables that have multi layer sheathing are so smooth and the aftermarket ones are not.

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I understand what you are saying, but i still had the same problem before putting and After-Market cable in the Car. ( The OEM cable popped it was also hard to push.)
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Old 09-23-2015, 11:40 PM   #27
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The OEM cable might have been frayed. You also may have an issue internal to the bellhousing. That will require the trans to come out.

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Old 09-28-2015, 09:00 AM   #28
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ISSUE FIXED (UPDATE)


All Was needed was to add some white lithium grease inside the cable. Now its push SUPER easy..


- Just wanted to thank everyone who gave their input in helping me with this problem. Now I can't keep her.


[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 09-28-2015, 09:35 AM   #29
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Not trying to be a downer, but what you did is only a temp fix. Hopefully it lasts awhile and you don't have to re-apply any time soon. You would not have to do this with an OEM cable and the non-OEM cables like you have are prone to snapping.

I still recommend replacing it with an OEM just as a precautionary measure. You don't want to get stranded somewhere if it snaps on you.
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Old 09-28-2015, 11:05 AM   #30
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If it is hard to push, but returns like normal, I am going to also point to the cable.

///should get you through////

Im not sure what the end of th UPR cable looks like, but see if you can spray some oil into it-- It might help make it tolerable.
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Glad it worked!! Just remember that grease is something for dirt and other particles to stick to. If the clutch starts feeling grainy/grimy when pushing it in, then dirt has migrated into the sheath. You're safe for a while though
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Old 09-28-2015, 11:06 AM   #31
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ISSUE FIXED (UPDATE)


All Was needed was to add some white lithium grease inside the cable. Now its push SUPER easy..


- Just wanted to thank everyone who gave their input in helping me with this problem. Now I can't keep her.


[IMG][/IMG]
I'm glad the grease idea helped you. It should get you through until you get a OEM cable.
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