Got her running sort of - fuel issues - Mustang Evolution

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Old 09-25-2015, 11:59 AM   #1
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Got her running sort of - fuel issues

History
Car sat for 1yr, drove it back from VA to TX using premium gas and putting water treatment in the fuel it had a couple of bogging down moments but then picked back up with full power (figured could be water in the tank). Blew out the timing chain 400 miles into trip, finally got all that cleaned up and replaced, she cranked right up and drove just as strong for a couple days.

Currently she doesn't want to travel more than 5-10 miles without bogging like the fuel filter is bad. I replaced it AGAIN and added Techron and the same. She currently has a little less than 1/4 tank of fuel. Sometimes she is starving for fuel and then sometimes will get a burst of full power, and at other times she will stall like no fuel.

I am thinking the fuel pump strainer is getting clogged with whatever is in the fuel tank now the level is so low. I am borrowing an ODB reader to see if it spits any codes I can't make the 20 min drive to the nearest mechanic or auto parts store for them to test.

Removing the tank looks simple enough.

Should I check anything else before pulling the tank? Fuel pressure test?
If I pull the tank I am planning to replace the pump and internal filter for good measure since I have it apart already.
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Old 09-25-2015, 12:10 PM   #2
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Definitely check fuel pressure at the rail while running and shortly after shutting it off.


Pay attention to what the gauges do when you run into this issue. Does oil pressure guage stay on? What does the tach do?
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Old 09-25-2015, 12:13 PM   #3
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It's always beneficial to check the codes. I think that you are on the right track, thinking this is a fuel delivery problem. Do a fuel pressure test. If you determine that the fuel pump needs to be replaced, it comes as a complete unit with a new fuel strainer included.
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Old 09-25-2015, 12:25 PM   #4
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Yes have a manual oil gauge and normal works the manual reads above 30 at idle been watching them since replaced timing chain and oil pump. The tach works as expected when it stalls it is 0 the most I have had it has been 3-4 when driving (its a DD) and when bogging down it bounces at 1-2k, even when feathering the throttle trying to keep it running. A couple of times it sounded like it was popping like a misfire not a backfire...then it would get full power and run great for 1/2 mile.

Tonight also planning to clean the K&N CAI and will check the torque on the plugs, reading the forums these also seem to be culprits.
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Old 09-25-2015, 12:30 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drewjunr View Post
Yes have a manual oil gauge and normal works the manual reads above 30 at idle been watching them since replaced timing chain and oil pump. The tach works as expected when it stalls it is 0 the most I have had it has been 3-4 when driving (its a DD) and when bogging down it bounces at 1-2k, even when feathering the throttle trying to keep it running. A couple of times it sounded like it was popping like a misfire not a backfire...then it would get full power and run great for 1/2 mile.

Tonight also planning to clean the K&N CAI and will check the torque on the plugs, reading the forums these also seem to be culprits.
Does the tach read 0 before or after it stalls? I'm trying to rule out a CPS problem
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Old 09-25-2015, 03:32 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by drewjunr View Post
History
Car sat for 1yr, drove it back from VA to TX using premium gas and putting water treatment in the fuel it had a couple of bogging down moments but then picked back up with full power (figured could be water in the tank). Blew out the timing chain 400 miles into trip, finally got all that cleaned up and replaced, she cranked right up and drove just as strong for a couple days.

Currently she doesn't want to travel more than 5-10 miles without bogging like the fuel filter is bad. I replaced it AGAIN and added Techron and the same. She currently has a little less than 1/4 tank of fuel. Sometimes she is starving for fuel and then sometimes will get a burst of full power, and at other times she will stall like no fuel.

I am thinking the fuel pump strainer is getting clogged with whatever is in the fuel tank now the level is so low. I am borrowing an ODB reader to see if it spits any codes I can't make the 20 min drive to the nearest mechanic or auto parts store for them to test.

Removing the tank looks simple enough.

Should I check anything else before pulling the tank? Fuel pressure test?
If I pull the tank I am planning to replace the pump and internal filter for good measure since I have it apart already.

DROP THE TANK AND CLEAN OUT CRUD, I HAD ONE DOING THIS AFTER SITTING FOR A DEPLOYMENT OF 9 MTS.FINALLY DROPPED THE TANK IT HAD ABOUT A PINT OF WHO KNOWS WHAT LIQUID IN IT.I CLEANED EVERYTHING GOOD REPLACED SOCK.NO MORE RUNNING PROBLEMS. IT WOULD PICK UP THE CRUD WHEN TURNING CORNER,WOT ORLOW TANK AND CUT COMPLETELY OFF,SIT FOR A COUPLE MINUTES AND WAS GOOD TO GO TILL NEXT TIME. THOUGH I WAS DOING THIS
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Old 09-25-2015, 06:41 PM   #7
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Getting 29-30lbs at idle.
Codes P0174 lean and P1233 fuel pump driver disabled or offline.

Noticed the air intake at filter making noise when running. Off and on with filter removed even. Assuming the MAF is supposed to do that? Can still see light through filter so didn't clean it.

Max when rev motor 2 and 3k would only get 30-32 and drop to 20 and back up to 30 on fuel pressure.

Fuel pump and tank clean it is.
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Old 09-25-2015, 09:43 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by drewjunr View Post
getting 29-30lbs at idle.
Codes p0174 lean and p1233 fuel pump driver disabled or offline.

Noticed the air intake at filter making noise when running. Off and on with filter removed even. Assuming the maf is supposed to do that? Can still see light through filter so didn't clean it.

Max when rev motor 2 and 3k would only get 30-32 and drop to 20 and back up to 30 on fuel pressure.

Fuel pump and tank clean it is.
shouldn't fuel pressure be around 50 key on engine off drop to 45 when running
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Old 09-25-2015, 09:45 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drewjunr View Post
getting 29-30lbs at idle.
Codes p0174 lean and p1233 fuel pump driver disabled or offline.

Noticed the air intake at filter making noise when running. Off and on with filter removed even. Assuming the maf is supposed to do that? Can still see light through filter so didn't clean it.

Max when rev motor 2 and 3k would only get 30-32 and drop to 20 and back up to 30 on fuel pressure.

Fuel pump and tank clean it is.


sounds like a fuel delivery problem,run ****ty when cold?

Shouldn't fuel pressure be around 50 key on engine off drop to 45 when running
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Old 09-26-2015, 01:35 PM   #10
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Do NOT put water treatment in the tank again, ever. That will cause your car to run rough.
Without getting into too much detail, there are only a few gas treatment products that work. Royal Purple & Techron in the black bottle are two.
*****
-*It wont hurt a thing to replace the fuel filter and add a bottle of fuel treatment. Run the car with fuel treatment and fill up a quarter tank of gas. Let it idle for 10-15 minutes, drive it normally, drive it hard.
*****
Adding Seafoam cleaner through vacuum system to clean intake is beneficial but can be useless or damaging if not done correctly (evenly).
Pulling the gas tank off to clean out requires purchasing a couple of parts that can not be reused.
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Old 09-26-2015, 08:34 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by robb15033 View Post
do not put water treatment in the tank again, ever. That will cause your car to run rough.
Without getting into too much detail, there are only a few gas treatment products that work. Royal purple & techron in the black bottle are two.
*****
-*it wont hurt a thing to replace the fuel filter and add a bottle of fuel treatment. Run the car with fuel treatment and fill up a quarter tank of gas. Let it idle for 10-15 minutes, drive it normally, drive it hard.
*****
adding seafoam cleaner through vacuum system to clean intake is beneficial but can be useless or damaging if not done correctly (evenly).
Pulling the gas tank off to clean out requires purchasing a couple of parts that can not be reused.
water treatment/remover is nothing but alcohol that combines with water letting you burn it off/don't waste money as your gas is 10% alcohol already. The additive will not cause any problems

what parts are "required" to r/r gas tank? New to me have most likely r/r'ed 100's without replacing any parts?once in a while the o-ring around pump access port and maybe a gromet around filler neck.just look at them when removing you will see if need replacing.have never had to take tank back out because of not replacing parts to start with.
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Old 09-26-2015, 08:49 PM   #12
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The filler neck grommet almost always needs to be replaced. I understand that, many times, it must be cut to remove the filler neck.
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Old 09-26-2015, 09:23 PM   #13
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the filler neck grommet almost always needs to be replaced. I understand that, many times, it must be cut to remove the filler neck.
from my personal exp. I have never cut one.spray good with silicon spray
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Old 09-26-2015, 09:28 PM   #14
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from my personal exp. I have never cut one.spray good with silicon spray
I believe that it is just good practice to replace it on these cars.
Sorta like installing a new engine and not replacing the water pump... It is a lot easier to just do it while it is already disassembled... The first time!
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Old 09-27-2015, 09:09 PM   #15
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Ended up replacing the pump and the tank. The tank had so much rust from the bottom to 1/2 way up the sides and it wasn't just light surface rust. After researching how to clean and seal it, I came to the conclusion that I didn't want to take the time or the expense to do it now and maybe have issues later.

Got the parts even the tank on a Sunday and have her back on the road. Took longer to tear apart and clean than put back together. Test drove her and she runs like new.
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Old 10-02-2015, 11:55 AM   #16
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The misc pieces in the tank, the mud filled filter. Yep that will do it.
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Old 10-02-2015, 12:26 PM   #17
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The misc pieces in the tank, the mud filled filter. Yep that will do it.

mine wasn't that bad,cleaned it and replaced pump sock. when you said sat that long i figured that was what was wrong.the alcohol draws moisture when sitting for long peroids of time. if you deploy again fill tank completely to top or drain completely
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