Am I okay to do 6k RPM launch dumping clutch? - Mustang Evolution

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Old 10-05-2015, 10:06 AM   #1
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Am I okay to do 6k RPM launch dumping clutch?

Got 26x10.50-15 m/t et streets, McLeod super street pro clutch, 26 spline input shaft, moser 31 spline axles and moser 31 spline full spool tokico shock and storyline springs. I'm wanting to launch dumping clutch at 6k I'm on 125 shot at about ~385rwhp/460rwtq is there anything I need to worry about failing?


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Old 10-05-2015, 10:15 AM   #2
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yes.
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Old 10-05-2015, 12:49 PM   #3
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Are you spraying off the line?


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Old 10-05-2015, 01:20 PM   #4
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U want to launch at your peak torque. Your car wont survive more than 2 or 3 launches like that, plus those street tires arent slicks they work but not like that. When u get into launches that hard u start sheering ujoints wheel studs, breaking tires off rims, demolishing torque boxes and twisting frames. Dyno car find torque sweet spot and launch there. Probably around 4200

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Old 10-05-2015, 01:43 PM   #5
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U want to launch at your peak torque. Your car wont survive more than 2 or 3 launches like that, plus those street tires arent slicks they work but not like that. When u get into launches that hard u start sheering ujoints wheel studs, breaking tires off rims, demolishing torque boxes and twisting frames. Dyno car find torque sweet spot and launch there. Probably around 4200

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Launch on spray yes.

Oh. I didn't think I could break wheel studs off I have no spacers. But I agree I peak torque 3600 to 4200rpms. If I launch there I should be okay?


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Old 10-05-2015, 03:02 PM   #6
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I would not launch with spray unless you have built that motor


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Old 10-05-2015, 03:06 PM   #7
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Why would the motor have anything to do with launching?


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Old 10-05-2015, 03:30 PM   #8
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Why would the motor have anything to do with launching?
When you dump the clutch, the drivetrain from the motor back is not the only thing that receives a huge shock..........your pistons, rods and crank have to deliver that torque to the rest of the driveline, which has been just standing still, and is now instantly going to be asked to get to 4,000 rpm.
That is a LOT of weight both inside the motor and below the car. Spraying after the launch is applying additional stress to a motor already turning high rpm --- lots less shock to the internals............if you are going to be drag racing more than a couple of times using techniques like this, look to forge your internals and further beef up the clutch.
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Old 10-05-2015, 03:33 PM   #9
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For one you have weak rods from the factory, and secondly you are engaging a couple thousand pounds of standing weight at the engines maximum power almost instantly. Anything that is weak is going to snap like engine rods, pressure plates, axle studs and all that good stuff.


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Old 10-05-2015, 03:48 PM   #10
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Practice test hits off the bottle first. Launching on nitrous is violent. I did it just for fun couldn't hook for ****. But 780ftlbs at 2,800 is fun in its own.

I think you will be fine. But get ready to start breaking stuff


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Old 10-05-2015, 04:32 PM   #11
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If your engine is turning 6K and your rear wheels are turning 0, everything in between is going to grind until the two ends catch up to each other.
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Old 10-05-2015, 05:20 PM   #12
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So maybe I'd be better off on a lower rpms launch maybe 4k?


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12.1 @ 117.9 (1.7) in 1/4th
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Old 10-05-2015, 05:50 PM   #13
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Yes 3200 to 4000 see what works best within that range remember you want to launch without wheel spin that will give the best 1/4 mile times you have to be able to hook up


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Old 10-05-2015, 06:04 PM   #14
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I mean I got fairy skinny dot slicks. So I'd rather spin a little than break something. I imagine that will do the job.


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12.1 @ 117.9 (1.7) in 1/4th
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Old 10-05-2015, 06:49 PM   #15
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These guys advise that you use no more clutch than is necessary for the power of a particular vehicle. So that the clutch is the weak link and you are not breaking the more expensive parts.
http://promotionpowertrain.com/NEW_F...UTCH_PAGE.html

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Old 10-05-2015, 06:55 PM   #16
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These guys advise that you use no more clutch than is necessary for the power of a particular vehicle. So that the clutch is the weak link and you are not breaking the more expensive parts.
http://promotionpowertrain.com/NEW_F...UTCH_PAGE.html

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Hopefully this McLeod clutch will weaken a little bit. I'm only 50hp and about 80tq short from the max support of it. I also have skinny slicks so hopefully they will spin some of I launch to hard. Rather spin than roast clutch or break something I will just have to play with it got one qualifying round to see what it does. Lol.


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Old 10-05-2015, 09:34 PM   #17
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Which et's did u get btw? Bias or radial, s/s or R? You keep saying skinny slick but a drag radial isnt anything like a true slick but a DOT et bias ply IS a slick with dot stamp. And the size you have, 10.5 is the standard 'street' class or small tire car class

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Old 10-05-2015, 09:38 PM   #18
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I got these 26x10.50-15
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2004 Mustang GT 5 Speed Full Bolt Ons 385rwhp 450rwtq
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2004 Mustang GT 5 Speed
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12.1 @ 117.9 (1.7) in 1/4th
7.6 @ 92.1 (1.6) in 1/8th
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Old 10-05-2015, 09:39 PM   #19
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Actually I had another question should I use water box or not?


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Old 10-05-2015, 11:08 PM   #20
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got 26x10.50-15 m/t et streets, mcleod super street pro clutch, 26 spline input shaft, moser 31 spline axles and moser 31 spline full spool tokico shock and storyline springs. I'm wanting to launch dumping clutch at 6k i'm on 125 shot at about ~385rwhp/460rwtq is there anything i need to worry about failing?


2004 mustang gt 5 speed full bolt ons 385rwhp 450rwtq
just weld a 1/2 inch slab of boiler plate under your feet so when flywheel explodes and comes through floor you will still have your feet..

Saw this happen at local drag strip
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Old 10-05-2015, 11:10 PM   #21
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Ok so u have an actual DOT bias ply tube type slick. Good call. I ran m&h racemasters which are the same type deep into the 9's back in the day. Just dont be dd'ing around on them much. That DOT stamp is just for show. Treat it like a regular slick, water box, 1,2 burnout NEVER test hit aka bunny hop catch a good light, leave at 3k and move up from there as u dial it in. Bring tools and spares

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Old 10-05-2015, 11:15 PM   #22
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Oh and get video. Not only for us but it's a great tool for u

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Old 10-05-2015, 11:19 PM   #23
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Ahh American muscle baby


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Old 10-05-2015, 11:23 PM   #24
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Highly doubt my flywheel or clutch will explode like that.


2004 Mustang GT 5 Speed Full Bolt Ons 385rwhp 450rwtq
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Old 10-06-2015, 12:25 PM   #25
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Got torque box reinforcement? What kind of internals do you have in your transmission? That's going to be a hell of a torsional shock to your crankshaft, but maybe you will get by because the nice drag slicks. On drag radials I would say hell no. On slicks, I would suggest slipping the clutch a bit for the first 15 feet. You have to do it juuuust right. That way you still get a good hard launch, but the massive spike of torque is smoothed out.


Im questioning what would happen to your transmission, considering the stock helical gears and the funny loads they put on the cases.


I say do it. Make sure to attach appropriate sensors to every moving part possible, and then data log everything!
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Old 10-06-2015, 05:48 PM   #26
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NO!!!
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Old 10-06-2015, 06:13 PM   #27
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Quote:
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NO!!!

Why do you think I should not?


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Old 10-06-2015, 07:17 PM   #28
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Driving a car like that you should expect things to break occasionally. It's part of the game. Professionally built race cars break and they have the best parts money can buy. Not trying to be rude and maybe I'm misunderstanding what your asking but seems like you want absolute assurance that nothing will break under those conditions and no amount of money you spend will provide that.


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Old 10-06-2015, 07:21 PM   #29
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Driving a car like that you should expect things to break occasionally. It's part of the game. Professionally built race cars break and they have the best parts money can buy. Not trying to be rude and maybe I'm misunderstanding what your asking but seems like you want absolute assurance that nothing will break under those conditions and no amount of money you spend will provide that.


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Not being rude at all I appreciate the advise! Everything helps


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Old 10-06-2015, 07:56 PM   #30
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I wouldn't leave on spray. I'd spray after you got off the line a car length or two, unless your car just hooks. Even then, I'm not sure the clutch/transmission or engine would like being abused like that (sprayed off the line).

You could always try it... Just don't expect everything to hold together. Speaking of something breaking, make sure if you do try it, you have a way of getting yourself and the car back home in case something does fail.
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Old 10-06-2015, 09:39 PM   #31
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Am I okay to do 6k RPM launch dumping clutch?

You said you doubt your flywheel/clutch will explode like that, i saw one do it making less hp/tq that u are and the clutch was suppose to handle wayyyy more, he was onto something when he said that... Thats why they make u run safe/special bellhousings and drive shaft safety loops for such things when you run in certain classes, not saying it will happen but i am saying its possible and i can speak from experience u dont want ur foot/leg broken or cut off... Broken hurts bad im laid up right now with compound fractures and 5 broken bones in my left leg/knee/ankle/foot.... It sux bad hurts like a sob


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Old 10-06-2015, 11:22 PM   #32
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I do it all the time on my stock car


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Old 10-09-2015, 11:28 PM   #33
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Talked to straight line transmissions the guy who did all my work he said launch it 4k to 6k he seemed very confident. So I might lose my right foot Saturday. Lol ;P


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Old 10-09-2015, 11:42 PM   #34
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Lightbulb Just in Case...

You might have someone at the strip, go along and collect pieces of your engine, transmission and clutch. You can sell them for paperweights for putting on your desk.

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Old 10-09-2015, 11:47 PM   #35
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I have a stage 3 clutch that's rated for more hp/tq than my crank hp


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