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Old 11-13-2015, 01:31 PM   #1
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What to do with the heads

So I've got pretty much every bolt on I can including cams..

I Goto a tech college and we're getting into porting and polishing heads.

My buddy just did is heads for his pi swapped 98.. And had great gains..

I've been looking at aftermarket options but I can port and polish my pi heads for free.. I'm not worried about screwing them up as the instructor has been doing it for years and will be watching carefully, so what should I do here fellas?

Also should I port them a certain way for the cams and everything else?


04 GT: CAI, 3.73, Longtubes, Full exhaust, Comp Cams 270's, Short throw, Pullies, BBK 73mm TB, MSD coils, 47lb injectors, MPT tuned, Steeda lowering springs, Front strut bar, MM caster camber plates and the list goes on.
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Old 11-13-2015, 03:22 PM   #2
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I'm not sure how they need to be ported but yes a port and polish will give you substantial gains especially since it's free go for it


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Old 11-13-2015, 06:30 PM   #3
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I need to spend a semester at your school and get all the stufd done i want to do to my car, lol

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Old 11-13-2015, 08:59 PM   #4
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Sign me up to haha!!!!

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Old 11-13-2015, 09:16 PM   #5
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Just break out the rat tail file!


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Old 11-13-2015, 09:54 PM   #6
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To be honest with you, I'd say go for it. But get yourself some other heads from the junk yard. Port and polish the ones you have with the cams in them real nice and slap them on there. If for some reason they don't work out you can have a back up pair to switch back to quickly and won't leave you stranded.


2003 GT: JLT CAI, summit 75mm TB, C&L plenum, 24# injectors, Mac Prochamber, SLP LM1 cat back, 3.73 Gears, FR500 Diff, FR500 diff cover, Jmod trans and shift kit, Max Motorsports subframes, Koni oranges front and rear, DBA discs front and rear, shrader performance rear seat delete, APSX D2 wideband, MPT happy customer.
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Old 11-14-2015, 01:31 AM   #7
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Since this will be your first try at porting heads, I would buy another set of PI heads and port them. That way, if you screw up and break through a water jacket, or something, you will still have a running engine.

I recommend doing some research on porting these specific heads, if you can find any reliable information. They actually flow pretty good in stock form. I have a set of CNC ported heads and it doesn't look like they removed too much material. Remember, what you think might help the air flow more smoothly, may not necessarily be helpful. The guys that are really serious about performing head work rely more on engine dyno results, than the actual CFM numbers from a flow bench.
Porting heads is an art, as well as a science.

I would definitely take advantage of the opportunity to learn as much as you can from your instructor.
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Old 11-14-2015, 09:57 AM   #8
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Yes port those heads, silky smooth rather than removing alot of material. Also focus on the area around the valves. AMS the guys that did mine, said on 2v heads biggest gains are from smoothing out casting inperfections and blending the combustion chamber along with a quality valve job. I picked up 40 hp and way way more tq. Not even gonna say my tq I make but its insane

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Old 11-14-2015, 07:47 PM   #9
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Should I get some new valves while I'm at it? I found some nice ones on mmr


04 GT: CAI, 3.73, Longtubes, Full exhaust, Comp Cams 270's, Short throw, Pullies, BBK 73mm TB, MSD coils, 47lb injectors, MPT tuned, Steeda lowering springs, Front strut bar, MM caster camber plates and the list goes on.
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Old 11-14-2015, 07:54 PM   #10
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If say just hand lap them and call it a day


2003 GT: JLT CAI, summit 75mm TB, C&L plenum, 24# injectors, Mac Prochamber, SLP LM1 cat back, 3.73 Gears, FR500 Diff, FR500 diff cover, Jmod trans and shift kit, Max Motorsports subframes, Koni oranges front and rear, DBA discs front and rear, shrader performance rear seat delete, APSX D2 wideband, MPT happy customer.
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Old 11-14-2015, 09:06 PM   #11
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Ported PI heads can result in HUGE gains on a boosted car. Not so much with a NA and bottom end car. I would get a set of spare heads to practice with, you can **** up very easily if its your first time even with the instructor watching.


Get a supercharger.
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Old 11-15-2015, 09:53 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
Ported PI heads can result in HUGE gains on a boosted car. Not so much with a NA and bottom end car. I would get a set of spare heads to practice with, you can **** up very easily if its your first time even with the instructor watching.


Get a supercharger.

You say get a supercharger, can I still run a supercharger or turbos with my comp 270 cams? Or do I need blower or turbo cams


04 GT: CAI, 3.73, Longtubes, Full exhaust, Comp Cams 270's, Short throw, Pullies, BBK 73mm TB, MSD coils, 47lb injectors, MPT tuned, Steeda lowering springs, Front strut bar, MM caster camber plates and the list goes on.
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Old 11-15-2015, 10:48 PM   #13
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Your cams are excellent for a mild forced induction setup. Save a few hundo's a month and come March toss a whipple on it in time for the spring break shootout

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Old 11-15-2015, 10:53 PM   #14
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Get it done by march 3rd and get up to bowling green and I may just get ur car airtime

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Old 11-15-2015, 11:15 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keeney35 View Post
You say get a supercharger, can I still run a supercharger or turbos with my comp 270 cams? Or do I need blower or turbo cams


04 GT: CAI, 3.73, Longtubes, Full exhaust, Comp Cams 270's, Short throw, Pullies, BBK 73mm TB, MSD coils, 47lb injectors, MPT tuned, Steeda lowering springs, Front strut bar, MM caster camber plates and the list goes on.
You can run with the 270s or even the stock ones. If your bottom end is stock there will be no real benefit to porting the heads tho. I am doing blower cams because I already have the supercharger and the motor is out of the car. Your 270s will work fine for a mild blower setup but not quite as well as actual supercharger/turbocharger cams.
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Old 11-15-2015, 11:18 PM   #16
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No stock bottom end here, only stock internal is the crank.. I have Manley rods and Pistons. Arp bolts and such..

So maybe I'll do a blower or even a procharger I like the sound of a procharger better


04 GT: CAI, 3.73, Longtubes, Full exhaust, Comp Cams 270's, Short throw, Pullies, BBK 73mm TB, MSD coils, 47lb injectors, MPT tuned, Steeda lowering springs, Front strut bar, MM caster camber plates and the list goes on.
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Old 11-16-2015, 01:55 AM   #17
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What to do with the heads

Yup i think the stock crank/block is good for around 600 so ur good, and scotty is right ull see some gains from a na car but a turbo or blower car is when it gets fun.... And in comparison our heads actually suck at flow numbers as to say a ls gm motor but if u look at those heads the intake and exhaust pretty much go striaght in and out and the ports and valves are bigger the 4v heads are closer to gm flow numbers then ours, but anyhow thats what blowers are for lol everything is better with boost, and if u did get blower cams u could always sell the comps to recoup a bit of the cash ( just a thought ) and with a procharger, head work,cams and a dyno session i dont see 600 being untouchable 😉


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Old 11-16-2015, 07:22 AM   #18
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The block itself is basically impossible to split unless you are running something like 1500+hp.


The stock crank is good for a ton of power as well as long as the RPM stays under 7k. A lot of ppl actually use the stock cranks to save money and because they are lighter than forged.


Now as far as the porting... its not something you can just do with someone watching you to make sure you don't screw up. It is going to be something you have to learn doing many times over on junk heads and then putting them on a flow bench and seeing whats up and then going back at it again. I would personally leave it up to the professionals until you get to that point. MHS makes a great set of ported heads for good price.


Or just leave it as is and set it to 450-500 with a supercharger and if that's enough power for you then leave it for awhile. That's also right on the edge of what a stock manual trans or a 03-down auto will hold. If you happen to have an 04 auto you can hold a good bit more though the trans.


As for a supercharger. Get the Vortech. Get the Vortech. Get the Vortech.


Or the Paxton if you find a good deal on it. Paxton is owned by Vortech IIRC and the Novi is a blower that you will probably never have to upgrade from unless you are looking for way more power than most ppl want/need. I have the Paxton because it came on the car and its good for about 22 psi.
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Old 11-16-2015, 09:06 AM   #19
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What to do with the heads

Ya, vortechs are awsome i know first hand lol... And right at 400 to the wheels pretty much takes most cars unless u get ahold of a coyote that has some upgrades or a ls powered car with upgrades.... Ive only had a couple street cars run with me when i have a good tire on it plus i have a mm ta and phb setup but i do need some better springs or coil overs .... I didnt think the blocks could handle that much power tho i thought the teksid and the aluminator blocks where a must goin over 1000 hp, but hey i dont claim to know everything for a fact im always open to learn.. So the cranks are good for 800 hp as long as i stay under 7k rpm? Cuz 700-800 hp is where ill stop thats more then enough for a daily street car... Hell 400 plants u in the seat hard lol.. Anyway ya id make sure ur port work is on a set of heads that do not have to go on , and the cheaper the better because its gonna take lots of practice ... But once u get good i have a set i can send u and pay u to port lols... But mhs and mmr are good for parts and anything i bought alot of my stuff from them as far as motors stuff goes and ill prob get my blower cams from mhs unless i can find a better setup


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Old 11-16-2015, 01:17 PM   #20
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Ya, vortechs are awsome i know first hand lol... And right at 400 to the wheels pretty much takes most cars unless u get ahold of a coyote that has some upgrades or a ls powered car with upgrades.... Ive only had a couple street cars run with me when i have a good tire on it plus i have a mm ta and phb setup but i do need some better springs or coil overs .... I didnt think the blocks could handle that much power tho i thought the teksid and the aluminator blocks where a must goin over 1000 hp, but hey i dont claim to know everything for a fact im always open to learn.. So the cranks are good for 800 hp as long as i stay under 7k rpm? Cuz 700-800 hp is where ill stop thats more then enough for a daily street car... Hell 400 plants u in the seat hard lol.. Anyway ya id make sure ur port work is on a set of heads that do not have to go on , and the cheaper the better because its gonna take lots of practice ... But once u get good i have a set i can send u and pay u to port lols... But mhs and mmr are good for parts and anything i bought alot of my stuff from them as far as motors stuff goes and ill prob get my blower cams from mhs unless i can find a better setup

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1st bold - Well those are the only real ones you'll want to go up against at the 1/4 and a 400whp 4.6L will get smoked by either of those.

2nd bold - The stock iron 4.6L blocks are stronger than the aluminum ones. Although the WAP/NVH, Teksid, and 3V (aluminator) blocks stout as hell too. People talk **** about the WAP all the time vs the Teksid but go try to find a failure where the block just let go from too much power. I have yet to see a proven case of this. But I don't get out as much as some.

3rd bold - Yes but if you are worried about it and are already going to be spending the $10-$15k to make a reliable built motor at 700-800hp, you can probably spend a little more for a forged crank...

4th bold - MHS is great. MMR=Might Make Raceday.
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Old 11-16-2015, 05:21 PM   #21
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What to do with the heads

Yup, i know about the ls cars, stock zo6s ( not the c7 new ones) give me a hell of a run so as far as that goes in there stock form ive yet to be had by one BUT one with a head or cam or both will pull on me no problem, stock coyotes dont put down 400 here the best ive seen for stock is 381 whp and u already know what stock ls's do at the wheel im not gonna get into it like that but ya, u can get a piston/rod combo that is good for 700 for $899 plus some machine work to freshen stuff up so u can do it for not that expensive if ur not trying to put down crazy numbers .... If i was gonna fork out 10-15k i would not stop at 800 lol... But anyhow i havnt heard anything bad about mmr... What is the word on them are they good? They have set multiple records for the modular platform so id think they know modular mustangs, i know mhs is awsome my valves came from them and will buy my cams there and will get them to degree them, mmr has better deals on pistons and rods but if the stock crank and block can handle decent numbers ima leave them alone untill i go for broke, good reliable info hard to come by lol, but anywY OP i be lookin for updates and gonna follow ur build , most importantly have fun doin it !


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Old 11-16-2015, 05:28 PM   #22
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Wow u txt so fast. Just saying the return button adds line breaks

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