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Old 11-18-2015, 09:11 PM   #1
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Lincoln mark vii swap

This is just incase my machs motor is actually screwed but what would be needed to do the swap and is it just a "plug and play" install?
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Old 11-18-2015, 11:14 PM   #2
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Mostly from what i have seen on here. I know Roguestang i believe is his name on here has done one and it worked well. He did a whole thread on it, search it should come up.

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---------- Post added at 12:14 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:14 AM ----------

Did you find out what the issue was when you took it to the shop? I know you were suspecting a blown head gasket.

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Old 11-19-2015, 06:56 AM   #3
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Mostly from what i have seen on here. I know Roguestang i believe is his name on here has done one and it worked well. He did a whole thread on it, search it should come up.

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---------- Post added at 12:14 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:14 AM ----------

Did you find out what the issue was when you took it to the shop? I know you were suspecting a blown head gasket.

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Honestly im still confused on whats wrong. The shop i took it to quoted me 5k to fix it which is well above the amount to rebuild or drop that lincoln motor in
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Old 11-19-2015, 07:45 AM   #4
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You would need to swap the heads and intake from yours over to the shortblock. I mean you COULD use the B heads and Mark VIII intake but it would be a downgrade.


Why not just buy an 03-05 Aviator motor? They're exactly the same except for the cast crank and the intake setup. Swap your intake over and drop it in. The cast crank is fine at your power level.


Or if you are really pressed for cash just pull a Vic motor for $500 and swap all your 4V stuff onto it and call it good. Rods and pistons are the same and the cast crank is (again) fine. You just lose the aluminum block that your Mach has if you don't get a motor with the aluminum one like the Mark VIII or Aviator or 02-05 Explorer.
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Old 11-19-2015, 09:46 AM   #5
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Ahh ok, so the aviator and explorer are my best options?
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Old 11-19-2015, 11:30 AM   #6
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If I were you I would find the cheapest lower mileage Aviator motor I could, swap the intakes and drop it in. If you have the choice for similar price points, get the 05 model year engine though. Those got the final revision C heads with the 8 thread plug holes.

Only other thing you would need besides basic consumables is a 6 bolt flywheel because of the cast crank.


This option is also good because you get a second set of C heads and you could keep yours as a good set of cores for porting later or sell them and make some $$$ back.
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Old 11-19-2015, 12:11 PM   #7
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So basically find a low milage aviator motor swap the intake manifold and get a bolt flywheel, thats all id need? And would this motor be slower,same, or faster than the factory mach?
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Old 11-19-2015, 12:32 PM   #8
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Its the exact same motor as far as the block/heads/cams etc... You will need to swap the intake, go to a 6 bolt flywheel and then the cover and accessories obviously and that's really it.
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Old 11-19-2015, 12:39 PM   #9
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Also be aware that the $5k to fix it is going to be all the parts and labor involved and everything. Get some quotes on the Aviator motors and then get some labor quotes from different shops on how much it would be to pull and replace yours. I'm willing to bet its going to be near that $5k mark all told.
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Old 11-19-2015, 02:09 PM   #10
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Yeah I didn't notice you had a Mach 1 when I posted earlier. That does change things. I would probably just pay the piper and get it fixed. Anyway you go is probably going to lead to 5k.


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Old 11-19-2015, 05:37 PM   #11
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Well i can swap in another motor for 1k and im guessing the price of the aviator motor is around 1k as well
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Old 11-19-2015, 05:51 PM   #12
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Well i can swap in another motor for 1k and im guessing the price of the aviator motor is around 1k as well

If you can get a Mach 1 motor for a grand that's the play but I can't see that happening. The Mach 1 motors are hard to find that's why people use the aviator motor which is now becoming equally hard to find. The Mach 1's in my area are sought after and go for good money so I would fix it right!


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Old 11-19-2015, 09:27 PM   #13
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Lol if you can find one for a grand then RUN don't walk and get the cash in that person's hand as soon as you can.

Going to be in the $1500 range MINIMUM for one in good shape with 100k on it which is honestly not a huge deal for these motors. Look at more like $2k or $3k for a low mileage unit.

Again, not cheap and you really really might want to just pay the $5k if you are having someone else fix it.

And also, did you ever find out exactly what was wrong with yours?

If you are totally and completely "omg" strapped for cash then you can use ANY 4.6L shortblock from 99-up. An iron blocked Crown Vic motor will add like 75lbs to the engine but it'll be $500 and then you just swap all your 4V stuff over. You would need new hardware and gaskets and all that stuff but that would be the cheapest way to get a "new" engine in there.

If you HAVE to stay aluminum block then the motors that are aluminum blocks are the Mark VIIIs, the 96-98 and 99/01 Cobras, the 03/04 Mach, the 02-05 Explorer/Mountaineer, the 03-05 Aviator and all 05-10 Mustang GTs.

But find out what the H is wrong with yours before you get really worked up about it. It could be something that is not too bad to replace or something really stupid or something that legit does require the motor to come out and be rebuilt/replaced.
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Old 11-19-2015, 09:57 PM   #14
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I agree. Superdrift needs to find out exactly what the problem is.
If I remember correctly, this car has less than 100k miles. I have a hard time believing that it needs a valve job... Anything is possible though.

I would be hesitant to spend $5000 only to find out that a cam chain tensioner is the real cause of the noise...
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Old 11-20-2015, 02:52 PM   #15
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I agree. Superdrift needs to find out exactly what the problem is.
If I remember correctly, this car has less than 100k miles. I have a hard time believing that it needs a valve job... Anything is possible though.

I would be hesitant to spend $5000 only to find out that a cam chain tensioner is the real cause of the noise...
I think im going to just sell the car, the motor was rebuilt once and the history isnt very clear
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Old 11-21-2015, 01:30 PM   #16
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Took it to another shop and they said it sounds like the knock is coming from the main bearing
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Old 11-21-2015, 02:06 PM   #17
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Hmmm.
Well, so far, you have one shop saying that they think that the noise is coming from the top end, and another that thinks that it is coming from the bottom end.
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Old 11-21-2015, 06:14 PM   #18
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Hmmm.
Well, so far, you have one shop saying that they think that the noise is coming from the top end, and another that thinks that it is coming from the bottom end.
They both are very good shops but the one its at now is going to go more into it.
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Old 11-25-2015, 06:24 PM   #19
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They came back and said that it will need a complete motor rebuild since the bottom end is knocking, they did a compression test and said 2 cylinders were bad on the right and 1 on the left.
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Old 11-25-2015, 07:01 PM   #20
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They came back and said that it will need a complete motor rebuild since the bottom end is knocking, they did a compression test and said 2 cylinders were bad on the right and 1 on the left.
I was hoping for better news for you on this! Damnit. Maybe go ahead with your plan to sell it.

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Old 11-25-2015, 07:03 PM   #21
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But if you do spend the 5k on the engine rebuild, get the body work and paint done it will probably be worth what you spent all together. With that mileage in good condition Machs go for around 10k or so.

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Old 11-25-2015, 07:47 PM   #22
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I dont have the money to rebuild the car so im forced to sell it, i wish this car would have worked out but i guess it was never supposed to be
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