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Old 12-09-2015, 05:29 PM   #36
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Must be fun owning a stang up there lol
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Old 12-09-2015, 06:29 PM   #37
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WINDING ,Twisting roads but not alot of traffic , can still go plenty fast in a well handling stang , my wife has a 06 GT convertable , she got a$150 speeding ticket over the week end, talk about a lead foot...
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Old 12-09-2015, 06:39 PM   #38
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I live 45 minutes from Philly, I'd be wondering if you bought my car if it was a 98 but I think the new owner would have probably asked if I wanted to buy it back.

And to be sure you confirmed via Bama themselves that they'll tune your car correct? Because they would not tune my 98 with a 99 motor and the exact same stock tune as it had from the factory. No idea.
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Old 12-09-2015, 07:05 PM   #39
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I have a 96 gt. And yes I talked to them already they won't tune if it's a full pi engine swap but I only have the heads and manifold so they will tune it
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Old 12-09-2015, 11:17 PM   #40
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You have the cams too.

And this is the definition of what a "canned" tune is and why I'm not a fan of them. There is zero reason they couldn't tune a 99-04 PI engine in a 96-98 except that the VAST majority of ppl who do a PI swap just do the HCI and have the NPI shortblock so they have a canned tune for that but not the swap. At least that is my theory. Like I said, plenty of tuners out there who will actually custom write you a remote tune vs pick a "close" generic tune and tweak it which is what Bama/Steeda do.
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Old 12-10-2015, 04:56 AM   #41
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What really is a canned tune?
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Old 12-10-2015, 12:51 PM   #42
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Its a tune that isn't specific for your car but is good enough to work pretty well. Lots of ppl run the AM/Steeda tunes and they are great for them. Just make sure you get a wideband. Don't want to be too lean from a tune like this and go to WOT.
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Old 12-10-2015, 01:12 PM   #43
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That's a very good description of a canned tune. I personally use MPT and a very satisfied customer of theirs. I don't have the most mods but I have enough and I want to protect my engine. MPT is spot on. At WOT on my car my A/F ratio is right at 14.2 and holds until you let off. Getting a specific tune like the ones from MPT and others will help you make the most power out of your car.


2003 GT: JLT CAI, summit 75mm TB, C&L plenum, 24# injectors, Mac Prochamber, SLP LM1 cat back, 3.73 Gears, FR500 Diff, FR500 diff cover, Jmod trans and shift kit, Max Motorsports subframes, Koni oranges front and rear, DBA discs front and rear, shrader performance rear seat delete, APSX D2 wideband, MPT happy customer.
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Old 12-10-2015, 01:20 PM   #44
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My car runs rich. Will the bama tune fix this?
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Old 12-10-2015, 01:46 PM   #45
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After datalogging probably. It will probably be sent to you on the rich side initially

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Old 12-10-2015, 02:53 PM   #46
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Which he won't be able to tell without a wideband. Everyone with a tune should have one.
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Old 12-10-2015, 03:07 PM   #47
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I think all in all its a good buy bc it will pull my codes if I have issues and it tells me all about my car while making it run better
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Old 12-10-2015, 03:07 PM   #48
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Damn irresponsible people without a wideband..

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Old 12-10-2015, 03:09 PM   #49
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I believe BAMA tunes are ball park tunes , they get you close & work for most but you may have to take your car & get it " Fine Tuned " on a Dyno . I put stage 3 cams on mine & the BAMA tune worked well enough to drive my car but I took it to my local trusted tuner & he " Tweaked " it and yes my car ran even better so I have that Tune downloaded into my SCT/Flash & erased BAMAs
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Old 12-10-2015, 03:13 PM   #50
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That is why you datalog an email tune.

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Old 12-10-2015, 03:20 PM   #51
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Does make alot of sense if you know whats going on & when you can make adjustments,
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Old 12-10-2015, 07:22 PM   #52
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And BTW if you guys could answer this question it would be great. My fuel pump seems to make a quiet buzzing noise when the car runs. It doesn't do it 100% of the time but I'd say it does about 85% of the time. You can't hear it unless you get behind the car and its not loud but its there. It always primes when I turn the key and all. Is this a problem?
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Old 12-12-2015, 06:19 PM   #53
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I have a 2v new edge and an 04 cobra. I have spent ALOT OF MONEY on mods...

You want bang for your buck? Cams, gears w/aluminum driveshaft. King cobra clutch (have your flywheel re machined). Throttle body plenum combo. (don't waste your money on those bs spacers) underdrives...even subframes.

That is a little starter list of things you will actually feel from the money and work.
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Old 12-12-2015, 06:20 PM   #54
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Driveshaft makes a difference?
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Old 12-12-2015, 06:24 PM   #55
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Hell yea dude...less rotating mass and less parasitic drivetrain loss. You may find that it also kills any of the "whine" you may have from your rear.

And if you have any decent experience messing with cars...cams are not that hard to install. And will yield a great deal of power 20-40 wheel usually depending on your exhaust setup an intake setup.

I have FULL bolt ons on my car including long tubes and off-road X. Stage 2 hi tech cams...and I'm at 302/306 to the tires.

Out of all the mods I did, I felt the most from clutch/driveshaft/3.73 gears, and also my camshaft sct tuner
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Old 12-12-2015, 06:30 PM   #56
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I'll tell you what man...get some decent long tubes (I have had my BBK ceramics on for about 11 years and no problem) and an off-road pipe. The pipe you have now won't match up to the headers.

Also get a throttle body/plenum combo. 70 or 75mm. Pick your poison. I have Accufab 75mm

I would only recommend STEEDA underdrives...

Do those few mods. You will notice an increase then. I promise. If you're worried about he pain in the *** job of long tubes...just do a decent throttle body and plenum and underdrives. You will feel something there. And get the heat shield back on that intake. It's there for a reason.
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Old 12-12-2015, 06:51 PM   #57
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Ok I'm doing underdrives first I'm gonna go with steeda. BTW my clutch cable snapped and I bought a steeda cable and had my buddy put it in but it really isn't right. The car makes noise and its hard to get into gear. The peddal feels crunchy and when I put it in gear it rolls a little bit. Why is this?
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Old 12-14-2015, 01:33 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arena314 View Post
Ok I'm doing underdrives first I'm gonna go with steeda. BTW my clutch cable snapped and I bought a steeda cable and had my buddy put it in but it really isn't right. The car makes noise and its hard to get into gear. The peddal feels crunchy and when I put it in gear it rolls a little bit. Why is this?
Because you bought an aftermarket cable. Big nono. Get OEM or get Max Motorsports which is an improved version of OEM.
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Old 12-14-2015, 01:42 PM   #59
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Friends don't let friends but bbk headers

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Old 12-14-2015, 02:09 PM   #60
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Sheeeeeeeet! I never had a problem with them. My 2v still sounds and runs great with them. My cobra I would only put kooks or arh on...
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Old 12-14-2015, 02:11 PM   #61
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Turns out I have a bad throwout bearing and I'm going to need a new one. I'm going to do a clutch while I'm in there
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Old 12-14-2015, 02:17 PM   #62
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I know people will have different opinions but hear me out...

My GT is my weekend ho. I beat her around, feed her breadcrumbs and leave her outside in the cold. I have HAMMERED on that clutch for 10 straight years now and no slip. None.

Get the FRPP King Cobra clutch son!

Don't listen to these kids reading expired parts catalogs off of their Daddy's toilet lid.
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Old 12-14-2015, 02:18 PM   #63
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Is that the king cobra style clutch from cj pony parts? It doesn't say its a king cobra clutch it says its a king cobra style clutch
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Old 12-14-2015, 02:19 PM   #64
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That's where I got mine a long time ago. Should be a 10.5" clutch
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Old 12-14-2015, 02:25 PM   #65
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The King Cobra clutch is OOP. It has been for awhile. You will see "King Cobra" clutches advertised but its not the real deal anymore. The one on CJ is not a legit KC clutch.


Just get the Exedy Mach 400. Great clutch, light pedal feel, better bite than the KC (and I have had both in cars I've DD'd) and is readily available and won't break the bank.


And don't get a 10.5" clutch. You are going to want to replace the flywheel anyway so upgrade to 11" that was used on the 01.5-04 cars. You need no other modifications to do this than an 11" flywheel and 11" clutch, again 01.5-04 style. Get an extra bit of material to grab that way.
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Old 12-14-2015, 02:28 PM   #66
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Aw man! That's no good! I didn't know that.

I'm with scotty tho. Seems like he knows the two clutches first hand. And with the 11" flywheel upgrade too...Solid advice.
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Old 12-14-2015, 02:38 PM   #67
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Yeah its been OOP for awhile.


He also has a 3650 conversion done so his clutch may have been done recently... I'd try to add a little preload to that TOB before I wrote it off. If the cable is too loose a good TOB can chirp like one that is shot.


Also, I still would like to see pics of how his conversion was done and what parts they used. I did a 3650 in a 98 and there are a few "gotchas" from the speedo to the reverse light sensor and the big one is the trans mount setup.


I also need to remember to get him a correct dipswitch setting... my home life has been crazy busy lately, I have not had a chance to even work on my own car in a few months...
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Old 12-14-2015, 03:18 PM   #68
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Damn man...seems like your knowledge is still on point though!
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Old 12-14-2015, 03:40 PM   #69
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I believe my current clutch is an exedy and the cable is adjusted all the way out. You can see the throw out bearing is split in 2
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Old 12-14-2015, 03:46 PM   #70
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Quote:
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I believe my current clutch is an exedy and the cable is adjusted all the way out. You can see the throw out bearing is split in 2

Sounds like they used the throw out bearing that comes with the new clutch... I always use the ford bearings. Just something to think about when you replace it


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