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Where to go next

41K views 716 replies 34 participants last post by  keeney35 
#1 ·
I'm at a stand still as to where I want to go next with my build.


Right now I'm "full bolt on" cams, headers and the small stuff. Mods are listed in my sig..

But this semester I'm taking an engines class and we can bring in our own stuff to work on if we want.. So I've got a few options in mind as I have money to spend.

I want to upgrade my intake manifold and possibly heads.

Car has a FRPP PI intake manifold and stock heads as of now.

I'm debating between the Trick flow Street burner or trick flow track heat intake.

And twisted wedge heads or just finding some cheap pi heads and porting and polishing them in class.

Or I could build the bottom end, pistons/rods etc.

I already have a on3 kit ready to go but I want to get some other upgrades on before I start that install later this winter/early spring.

Any insight or opinions on those intake or those heads and comp 270 cams?



04 GT: CAI, 3.73, Longtubes, Full exhaust, Comp Cams 270's, Short throw, Pullies, BBK 73mm TB, MSD coils, 47lb injectors, MPT tuned, Steeda lowering springs, Front strut bar, MM caster camber plates and the list goes on.
 
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#591 ·
As strong or better then stock it's not thin sheet metal like stock, it's essentially a roll cage but in the front end.

Not something I would recommend for a daily driver but for something that you just toy around with it is nice and at 600$ it's affordable for the quality of the piece


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#592 ·
Wanted to pick you alls brains on an idea.

As most of you know I tucked all of my wires in the engine bay to the inner fenders.

I'm debating removing my inner fenders and making some sort of custom inner fenders so with an access hole since my fuse box is in there as well.

Any ideas as what I could use?


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#595 ·
They sell sheets of nylon but I think it would be a huge deal to mold them and make them work how you'd like. Aluminum would be your best bet. You would probably have to make it in 3 pieces or more. Forward fender top and aft. Would look pretty cool riveted in there though.

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#598 ·
Got my front end tore down to replace my headlight panel, it had 2 small pieces broken off where the bumper mounts. Didn't hurt it at all but it bugged me because I knew it was broken.

Vehicle Car Auto part Performance car Hood
Automotive exterior Bumper Auto part Vehicle Trunk
Bumper Automotive exterior Auto part


Calling it a night its a little cold out in the ole garage, so tomorrow I'm going to get up under it and check my wires where I tucked them to make sure they are tucked up out of the way and I'm gonna leave the inner fenders out so I can play with it and see what kind of custom thing I can make.

Also gonna check the fuse box and wiring to see if I can't fix my fog lights, I put em back in a month ago and they worked for about a week so I'm gonna see if it's just a fuse or what is going on..

Big big things happening this winter so stay tuned everyone.


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#600 ·
I finally saw it up close and it's looks and feels very high quality, however they haven't made up a way to mount your fenders but they are in the process of coming up with it so I'm holding off until then, but if it's not within the next month or so, I'm going to get it and make my own mounting solutions

Car should be going back together tonight with the new headlight panel, and I repainted the grille delete and the section behind it.

Didn't have a chance to look into why my fogs aren't working anyone know the fuse for the fogs for an 04?


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#603 ·
Got the headlight panel back in, headlights back on, too cold to lay down out there and fool with the fog lights.

I am going to leave the front bumper and inner fenders off and take it up to work so I have all my tools and a lift, and access to a computer and not to mention warmth to figure out the fog light issue.

Automotive exterior Vehicle Bumper Car Automotive design


Oh yeah, and my Scott rod door panels just came in. Technology Electronics Electronic device Gadget Metal



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#604 ·
Got the headlight panel back in, headlights back on, too cold to lay down out there and fool with the fog lights.

I am going to leave the front bumper and inner fenders off and take it up to work so I have all my tools and a lift, and access to a computer and not to mention warmth to figure out the fog light issue.

View attachment 211369

Oh yeah, and my Scott rod door panels just came in. View attachment 211377


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You should get Carbon Fiber Doors. Cuts 80lbs while keeping everything else like the windows and speakers and panel.
 
#608 ·
Doing some little things to the car now to clean it up.

As most of you know that have followed the build I started it in tech college and was kinda rushed to get it done before graduation.

I tucked the wires in the fenders and zip tied a lot out of the way.

A lot of those zip ties are visible if you look for em and it bugs the **** out of me so the next week or so I'll be cleaning those up.

I removed the inner fenders so I'm either gonna leave them out or fab some of my own that aren't as bulky and just protect the wires.

A lot of the engine harness wire loom was broken and brittle so I've re-loomed most of them especially around the intake.

This pic doesn't show any of the new loom just a pic of what I consider to be a dirty engine lol I'm pretty ocd and perfect about stuff so it might look fine to you guys Engine Auto part Vehicle Fuel line Car


Also as a lot of you know I deleted ALOT of **** so wth that being said do you all see any issue with cutting off the pigtails or cutting the wires that went to the things I deleted? There's a bunch of plugs hanging around from stuff that the car no longer has and never will.


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#610 ·
Doing some little things to the car now to clean it up.

As most of you know that have followed the build I started it in tech college and was kinda rushed to get it done before graduation.

I tucked the wires in the fenders and zip tied a lot out of the way.

A lot of those zip ties are visible if you look for em and it bugs the **** out of me so the next week or so I'll be cleaning those up.

I removed the inner fenders so I'm either gonna leave them out or fab some of my own that aren't as bulky and just protect the wires.

A lot of the engine harness wire loom was broken and brittle so I've re-loomed most of them especially around the intake.

This pic doesn't show any of the new loom just a pic of what I consider to be a dirty engine lol I'm pretty ocd and perfect about stuff so it might look fine to you guys View attachment 213554

Also as a lot of you know I deleted ALOT of **** so wth that being said do you all see any issue with cutting off the pigtails or cutting the wires that went to the things I deleted? There's a bunch of plugs hanging around from stuff that the car no longer has and never will.


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The only issue I could see with cutting wires is that any of your wires with a 5V reference could potentially arc out. Then there is also the thought of potential corrosion making its way through the wires as well, but I would assume you would wrap up the wires.
 
#613 ·
Might have a major issue.

Me and my cousin were going thru the car and cutting the unused plugs/pigtails off.

He cut the abs module pigtail off Office equipment Technology Automotive exterior Electronic device Electronic instrument


Which is no big deal, it's deleted, but there were some wires going off of it that went to another part of the harness and he cut that too. Wire Electrical wiring Cable Technology Electronics accessory
Electrical wiring Wire Electrical supply Auto part Cable


Now the car will not start, won't even crank, theft light is flashing, odometer is reading ---------- and I can't even check codes with my scanner Text Red Font Material property Technology


Hopefully if I can find a wiring diagram i can just wire what's necessary back up and it'll be okay but that's gonna be a pain to find out what goes to what.

That's a lot of wires


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#614 ·
After some wire tracing and some help from the old inter webs, I got it to crank.

Still won't start. Still have theft light flashing, and odometer still reads out dashes.

But that's a step in the right direction.

I saved myself the trouble of dealing with a **** ton of wires to trace and I clipped all of the wires that came from the abs directly. I know those aren't the culprit since that has been unhooked and the car ran fine.

Wire Electrical wiring Cable Technology Cable management


I'm pretty sure I've got it narrowed down to those. Which sucks because a lot of those are cut wayyyy short on the other harness connector Electrical wiring Wire Cable Electronics Electronic component


But I can always just solder them straight together if I need to do that's okay.

Tomorrow I'll dig into it more and see if I can't get the other wires traced and wire them back up and see if that changes anything.

I hate this but in the same respect it's a learning experience for my cousin to be careful what you cut and also for me as well so I'll double check myself in the future.

I'm going thru and redoing all of the wiring/tucking. Going to tie everything up so I'm sure it's out of the way and I'll roll without my inner fenders once I'm sure the tires wont contact anything.

Hate seeing the car like this Engine Vehicle Auto part Motor vehicle Car


But if you've followed the thread it's been much much more tore apart then this and when it was complete again it came out much better.

I'll get on the computer at the dealership(work) tomorrow and look up some diagrams and schematics and see what wires control what and hopefully by tomorrow it will be purring again!


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#616 ·
After some research.


I have 8 wires that need to be connected to get it back working.

5 of the 8 are connected now and it's cranking but not running.

The remaining wires are:

BK/OG- controls the pcm power relay and CCRM

TN/OG- controls fog relay and rear defrost

LG- controls PCM, ABS, Speed control servo, and brake shift interlock.

Any idea which of those might be causing the main issue which is the no start and theft light?

I'm guessing it's the 2 that control thinks that are pcm related.

I'm going to cut the connector out and just wire them all directly, solder/heat shrink/black tape/ and re-loom them.


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#617 ·
Got the wires spliced back together with some of the little twist caps so I could check it before I did any major soldering.

Car fired right up, no theft light, no check engine light.

I clipped the wire that goes to the cluster for the abs and my abs light is out now too, it was on before from deleting the abs so that's a bonus!!

Hopefully I can get it all soldered tomorrow and taped and re-loomed then continue on with cleaning up the wire tuck.

Beyond happy right now lol I couldn't sleep last night


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