Strut and spring setup - Mustang Evolution

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Old 02-23-2016, 11:59 AM   #1
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Strut and spring setup

Just looking for anyone with experience or an opinion on this setup I'm looking into. KYB shocks and struts and Tein lowering springs. Supposed to drop 2.0 all around. I can't stand wheel gap. I've seen and heard a lot of opinions about coilovers and what not, but not ready to pull the trigger on a full setup right now. This setup would only cost about $400. Anyone have any experience with this setup or similiar?
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Old 02-23-2016, 12:29 PM   #2
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Haven't personally used Teins but I haven't necessarily heard negative things either. I prefer H&R's as a more extreme drop spring option.

Regardless of springs, at that drop you will most likely need proper shocks/struts to handle the increased travel. The only KYB's I can think of that might handle it would be AGX's.

I personally don't care for KYB's that much, but someone else may say they're fine. I am pairing Bilstein B6 HD's with my H&R Super Sports. They are optimal for those springs and won't ride like dogsh*t. They are pricey but worth it imo.

Other comparable options would be Koni Yellows (adj or non), Tokico Illuminas or D specs (adjustable).

You will also need caster camber plates. I recommend Maximum Motorsports 4 bolt plates above the others. Have a set on each of my cars and they are phenomenal. Top notch components and make alignments much easier to complete. A bumpsteer kit, shorter end links and ball joints are also recommended for a drop that aggressive.

To get your geometry truly correct doing all these things is required. It is expensive, more expensive than most people expect, but it's worth doing right and once.
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Old 02-23-2016, 12:37 PM   #3
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I really don't have an issue doing it correctly the first time. I just didn't want to drop the $1400 on the setup right now. I'm sure I will in the future maybe this winter. But I need to get it painted and some other things done to make it DD. The other issue is that I have 315's in the rear. Not sure if that much of a drop would rub those or not. They are on 17"s and the gap is disgusting.
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Old 02-23-2016, 01:08 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LOWandSLOW View Post
I really don't have an issue doing it correctly the first time. I just didn't want to drop the $1400 on the setup right now. I'm sure I will in the future maybe this winter. But I need to get it painted and some other things done to make it DD. The other issue is that I have 315's in the rear. Not sure if that much of a drop would rub those or not. They are on 17"s and the gap is disgusting.
The CC plates are the most important thing to have with a drop bigger than 1.5". They will prevent premature and uneven tire wear. The factory plates on our cars allow for virtually no adjustment. If you did these and the springs right away with an alignment you would be alright. However it's recommended to do the other support components shortly after for longevity and performance. If you are paying for install, it just makes sense to wait and do it at one time. These car's suspension is very simple to tear into and installing all these parts is pretty straight forward. If you can turn a wrench and drill a hole you'll have no problems.

Depending on road conditions where you live it may be a hassle to daily drive a car dropped 2". I wouldn't want to with either of my cars but again, it really depends on your driving habits and roads.

My 03 is lowered ~1.8" in the rear with 17x10.5" bullitts wrapped in 315/35/17 Sumitomo HTR's. They do nut rub at all. I have Super Sports with the isos in. Everyone I know that is running a 315/35 has had no rubbing issues on the fender. You'll have more potential for clearance issues with your exhaust than the fender. I have ~.750" of clearance between the tires and the tail pipes. It's not much, but enough to where I haven't had any issues for the last 5 years since lowering it.
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Old 02-23-2016, 01:17 PM   #5
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There is definitely such a thing as too low... 2" is pushing it especially if your roads are not in real good shape.


That said, I'd do HR springs, Bilsteins or Konis, MM CC plates and get a good alignment.
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Old 02-23-2016, 01:19 PM   #6
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Right on. I appreciate the info. My daily commute to work is 5 miles. Almost all of it is town driving. There really aren't alot of garbage roads that I take here. I'm sure I'll do more than just to work and back since my F-150 doesn't get the best mileage either but I'm having a hard time rolling around with that crazy awful wheel gap. The paint is bad but that will be taken care of as soon as the weather here breaks. Taking all the things you mentioned into consideration, the total hits about $650 as of right now. I haven't priced out the Bilstein and H&R that you mentioned yet though.
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Old 02-23-2016, 01:35 PM   #7
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Do you recommend isolaters for the springs or can you use the stock ones?

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---------- Post added at 07:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:34 PM ----------

I have the stack racing springs with the koni orange shock and struts but haven t installed them

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Old 02-23-2016, 02:06 PM   #8
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Right on. I appreciate the info. My daily commute to work is 5 miles. Almost all of it is town driving. There really aren't alot of garbage roads that I take here. I'm sure I'll do more than just to work and back since my F-150 doesn't get the best mileage either but I'm having a hard time rolling around with that crazy awful wheel gap. The paint is bad but that will be taken care of as soon as the weather here breaks. Taking all the things you mentioned into consideration, the total hits about $650 as of right now. I haven't priced out the Bilstein and H&R that you mentioned yet though.
No problem. Bilsteins normally run ~$650 for shocks/struts, no quads. The full kit including quads is ~$870. Though if you plan on aftermarket lower control arms I wouldn't worry about upgrading the factory quad shocks. Most guys remove them as the new LCA's do a good enough job by themselves to manage wheel hop. The H&R Supersports will give you a similar drop to Teins. Slightly less by themselves, leaving the isolators out will get you to the 2" mark. If you decided on the super sports, the ones that actually drop the car over 1.7" is Item #HR-5165277. There is another set available for 96-04 coupes that only drop ~1.5". Don't buy those if you want the lower stance.

Again, Teins might be fine. I have no experience with them. A quick google search might provide more info. I do stand by the shocks/struts I mentioned.

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Do you recommend isolaters for the springs or can you use the stock ones?

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---------- Post added at 07:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:34 PM ----------

I have the stack racing springs with the koni orange shock and struts but haven t installed them

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The isolators are there to manage NVH produced due to the way the spring is perched on the A arm and the K member. It is a metal on metal contact surface. The isolators prevent this, but also add height to the springs. Typically ~1/4" per isolator when new.

If the stock rubber ones are in decent shape and you want them in then re-use them. Check the condition first as cars with more mileage tend to have worn out ones, especially the lower ones that rest on the A arm. Water tends to collect there causing them to erode. If the stockers are junk but you still want them in look into a new set of urethane isolators. Typically run ~$30 for a front set and $20 for a rear set.

If you want some additional drop by not using them but don't want the noise, wrap the first 3" of coil with black electrical tape and put a couple dabs of grease on the contact points. I did this on my 03 and it's been that way for over 5 years with no major squeaks or grinding.
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Old 02-23-2016, 02:12 PM   #9
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Okay thank you for that information, the car has a little under 50k miles but I didn t know you could go with out them, I thought it would maybe affect how the car rides.

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Old 02-23-2016, 02:21 PM   #10
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How the car rides is 99% due to the springs/shocks & struts in being used. Properly matched travel rates produce a nice ride. The isos might cushion the spring in the perches to some degree, but that would prevent noise more than anything.

I just noticed in your other post you have the SR springs. For your reference I currently have those with no isos on my Mach 1. I wrapped the springs with tape like I said above and it rides the same as stock. Still running the factory Tokicos.

I will be pulling those this spring for the H&R Super sports and Bilsteins, but the SR springs will be going into my brother in law's 01 GT and he will pairing them with Koni STR.T's. Those springs and shocks/struts will be a great combination. Perform decently and still maintain a comfortable ride.
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Old 02-23-2016, 02:34 PM   #11
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Yes and they are not bad on price either lol. I might just reuse the stock isolators and still wrap the bottom with tape, the previous owners mostly had the car garaged from what it looks like.

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Old 02-23-2016, 02:39 PM   #12
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They will probably be in good shape then. Later on if you decide you want the car lower you can simply remove them and gain ~.250-.375".
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Old 02-23-2016, 07:47 PM   #13
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I found a set of CX Racing coilovers on eBay for around $800. Anyone know if these would be worth it?
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Old 02-23-2016, 08:44 PM   #14
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Ive heard those are good, but really firm. A forum member just put them on recently. He said he had a friend with them or used them on a diff car before, I cant remember 100%. Search CXracing in the forum and you should find it.

I may be going with the SR springs and wrapping the isos as well. I will probably get MM CC plates as well. My car has bew shocks/struts so Im not sure if I'm doing those as well? I have researched it quite a bit but when youre around 1.5" lower the alignment and the need of heavy duty shocks isnt as great. But going that extra 3/4" or etc seems to make all the diff in the world, you will HAVE to have CC plates and dont mess around with anything but MM CC plates, period! If you go lower than the 1.5" i would get upgraded shocks/struts and CC plates for sure. If going 1.5" you will be ok with the KYBs you mentioned especially if your not driving that much or its a weekend seasonal cruiser. For me I should be ok with the new shocks/struts it already has and a 1.5" lowering spring set up, CC plates, no isos, and new ball joints. You can get a good quality set of ball joints without spending a fortune, get a set of Moog for about $70 bucks. The Steeda X2s are nice and run about $140 a set, but recently I have seen some bad things on them, but their usually really good. I would absolutely do the ball joints with a quality part either way you go. I know with my potential set up it may not have as good of performance but I dont autox or anything and only drive it a couple thousand miles a year.

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Old 02-23-2016, 09:54 PM   #15
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Just my .02 on the Tein. I used Tein S-techs on my eclipse, they were great, nice quality all the way around!


04 GT: CAI, 3.73, Longtubes, Full exhaust, Comp Cams 270's, Short throw, Pullies, BBK 73mm TB, MSD coils, 47lb injectors, MPT tuned, Steeda lowering springs, Front strut bar, MM caster camber plates and the list goes on.
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Old 02-23-2016, 10:48 PM   #16
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Just my .02 on the Tein. I used Tein S-techs on my eclipse, they were great, nice quality all the way around!


04 GT: CAI, 3.73, Longtubes, Full exhaust, Comp Cams 270's, Short throw, Pullies, BBK 73mm TB, MSD coils, 47lb injectors, MPT tuned, Steeda lowering springs, Front strut bar, MM caster camber plates and the list goes on.
I meant to mention that I too was looking at the Tein S Techs but their drop is advertised at 2" or more for the S Techs and though I would love the looks that is quite a lot of drop. I have not been able to find anything bad about them though, there is not a lot of info of them being used on Mustangs that I could find. They sound like a good spring. With amount of drop you should at least go with Koni STR.T set up, MM CC plates, and new quality ball joints.

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Old 02-23-2016, 10:52 PM   #17
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Oh yeah, get Steeda X2 balljoints. If you install them without the included spacer you get a free 1/2" extra drop up front. Also as far as balljoints go they are top notch.
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Old 02-23-2016, 10:54 PM   #18
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Oh yeah, get Steeda X2 balljoints. If you install them without the included spacer you get a free 1/2" extra drop up front. Also as far as balljoints go they are top notch.
This is what makes me want to use the Steedas without the spacer verse a cheaper Moog set. Their about double the price

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Old 02-24-2016, 06:11 AM   #19
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Here is a couple pictures of the awful wheel gap.
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Old 02-24-2016, 07:23 AM   #20
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Oh yeah, get Steeda X2 balljoints. If you install them without the included spacer you get a free 1/2" extra drop up front. Also as far as balljoints go they are top notch.
+1 on the Steeda balljoints, but do keep in mind if you leave the spacer out you probably don't want a lowering spring that already drops the car 2". Anything over 2" is going to be absolute hell on drop springs.
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Old 02-24-2016, 09:29 AM   #21
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Found out yesterday that I have a free $1k coming my way in about a week. Any ideas how far that can take me with my lowering issue?
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Old 02-24-2016, 10:40 AM   #22
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Found out yesterday that I have a free $1k coming my way in about a week. Any ideas how far that can take me with my lowering issue?
Careful on how low you go, I used Steeda springs/ball joints (1.5" drop) and my chin spoiler is feeling the pain. Coilovers may be ur best bet, so u get the height ur looking for. I almost went with the racelands, there's a couple guys using them. $1k will get those and x-2's no prob

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Old 02-24-2016, 10:42 AM   #23
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Was going to order the SR Coilovers from American Muscle but they are out of stock. Not sure if anyone on here has or is using them or not. But the price didn't seem to hurt too much.
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Old 02-24-2016, 11:59 AM   #24
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I found a set of CX Racing coilovers on eBay for around $800. Anyone know if these would be worth it?
The spring rates are pretty stiff. But if you're into that they work well.


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Old 02-24-2016, 12:05 PM   #25
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Few pics

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Old 02-24-2016, 12:20 PM   #26
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Was going to order the SR Coilovers from American Muscle but they are out of stock. Not sure if anyone on here has or is using them or not. But the price didn't seem to hurt too much.
I don't think they are a favorite on the forum. I know of one guy up here that had them on a black Mach 1. Didn't have anything negative to say about them but he didn't really track the car either. It was mainly for looks. Adjustability wasn't terrible and they slammed the car.

I do know a couple guys running the full Maximum Motorsports setup and they absolutely love them. They do some occasional solo SCCA events.

I guess if you're primarily going for looks and prefer adjustability over a fixed drop spring try the SR setup. If I ever decide on coil overs I will save up and go MM based on what I've heard from others I know that have it. YMMV
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Old 02-24-2016, 12:25 PM   #27
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I really don't think this car will see the track. It's mainly going to be my summer daily driver. I'm not going to get into trying to make it crazy fast or any of that. It has some decent get up right now which is good enough for me. I really just want to drop it and drive it.
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Old 02-24-2016, 12:36 PM   #28
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Absolutely do not cheap out on suspension. Ever. Max Motorsports or don't even bother with coilovers. You get what you pay for.
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Old 02-24-2016, 12:40 PM   #29
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So for what I'm going for, everyone recommends expensive coilovers? I'm just trying to gauge what all I'm going to be doing with the free $ I have coming.
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Old 02-24-2016, 12:44 PM   #30
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If you don't need adjustability you don't need coilovers. Just get the right shocks/struts for your selected drop and spring rates and a good set of MM CC plates.


TBTH I simply don't get going super low myself. Hard to get out of the car, the ride quality is a bag of *** and hooking up/handling suffers too if you are too low. Then there is your car getting torn up from bumps in the road and not being able to go over speed bumps.
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Old 02-24-2016, 12:54 PM   #31
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That is the cx coil overs ?
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Old 02-24-2016, 12:55 PM   #32
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I don't want the low rider look. I am looking to get rid of the wheel gap. Nothing more really. I don't want to sit on the ground by any means.
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Old 02-24-2016, 12:58 PM   #33
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I don't want the low rider look. I am looking to get rid of the wheel gap. Nothing more really. I don't want to sit on the ground by any means.
You don't need a massive drop to get rid of the wheel gap.
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Old 02-24-2016, 01:17 PM   #34
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I'm debating getting new wheels since the ones on it are curbed up real bad. But the 315's on the rear look pretty good. Was looking at the staggered saleen ones from AM.
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Old 02-24-2016, 02:49 PM   #35
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I have 315s with 17 inch rim and I rub
I had to roll my fenders 😐. But I think I decided on getting the h&r super sports with mm castor camber plates and then get an alignment and then when I get more money imma get the Bilistein hdss.
Most likely my tie rod ends are shot so if I get steedas bump steer that replaces the tie rod ends correct?
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