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Old 03-09-2016, 04:16 PM   #1
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Mainly cosmetic upgrades, done for now.

I picked up an 02 gt convertible a few years ago with big plans, and then life did it's thing so I got sidetracked. But the last few weeks or so I've thrown a bunch of time at the car and made a few changes.

The old



It already had I think every bolt on known to man, long tube headers, full magnaflow exhaust, sub frame connectors, BBK CAI, and NOS. Probably more but that's off the top of my head. I'm assumig the NOS system works, it didn't have a bottle and I'm not interested in it enough to find out. I just wish it had a supercharger.

Shortly after buying it I installed JL speakers everywhere including the sub and a pair of RF amps, all behind a kenwood DVD in dash.

And then I stopped :laugh:

So in the last few weeks I've been busy. I installed a keyless system that combines alarm/remote start/proximity lock and unlock/and true push button start. So no keys, just walk up and it unlocks, push a button and it starts. Push it again and it stop, walk away and it locks. And it has a few other features, pretty nifty. While I had the dash opened up, white face gauges too.




And then I went sequential on the tail lights. Following that I replaced all the signal bulbs themselves with LEDs. I don't care for the look of most actual LED tails so I figured that would be a good compromise.

That took care of the last of my real electrical wants. I was fine with keys except I've been traveling a lot this year and all my rentals are fob only and I've gotten spoiled

Then to the exterior. I've replaced I believe every light now. I've gone with projector headlights with LED DRL and halos, then I found a set of projector driving lights that replace the fogs, also with LED DRL. So I've gone from none to a bunch. So far I've only been driving in daylight so no real testing with the new setup. But in my shop, looks good.




The rear, I pulled the factory lights and replaced them with a set of smokes and then tinted the third brake light to pull it closer to where I wanted the finished look to be.

I also removed the stock grill and did the mach 1 replacement, and colored my wheels and calipers. That was the end of the easy stuff.



I removed all the ford/gt badging and filled where needed so it's nice and clean. Then it was time for color.





It's cloudy out so the color isn't great. It's burnt copper metallic, shines a bit with sunlight. I'm a fan of the 70 boss 302 mustang striping so I did similar to it. Since the body lines are shockingly different, so is the striping :laugh:







It's been a busy couple weeks. There's still a few things to do, it's been developing an annoying surging idle over the last year, getting worse now. I put in a new MAF just hoping that was the problem but no joy. I'm going to have to start troubleshooting it, best guess is it's a coil but I guess we'll see.


Anyway, that's it off the top of my head


I keep toying with buying a new one, this afternoon did a quick run through at the local ford dealer to see what they had on the lot. It was like night of the living dead with salesmen stumbling out of the showroom :laugh: I managed to get out of their with my life before they cornered me though.
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Old 03-09-2016, 06:29 PM   #2
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Very nice


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Old 03-09-2016, 06:55 PM   #3
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headlights and taillights aren't my cup of tea, screams rice to me, but to each his own. The car does look 1,000 times better than the before.

It needs some lowering springs for sure, has that factory 4x4 look.

I am very curious to how you did the keyless entry and remote start without having to still have the key in the ignition.
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Old 03-09-2016, 08:00 PM   #4
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+1 for springs, or just some more low. Also can slap a chin splitter on to complete the front end. Looks great. Very unique color.
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Old 03-09-2016, 08:01 PM   #5
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Ya. Neither light is exactly what I'd like but aftermarket support is what it is and they dont look bad.

The keyless is actually pretty simple, just bypass the pats, unlock the steering wheel and remove the ignition cylinder. The car is then controlled by the unit. In a pinch the cylinder just slides back in and you're back to stock. No tools needed. A regular remote start will shut down and is only for warming up. This system is different. $350 well spent imo.
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Old 03-09-2016, 08:09 PM   #6
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Thanks btw. A 2016 vette popped up in town, copper and black. I want that car! But since idon't have a spare 80k laying around i decided to get pretty close.


No lowering while i live here. I'd be leaving body parts behind at every intersection. Speed bumps and dips galore.
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Old 03-09-2016, 08:19 PM   #7
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did you do that from dip your car.com? i LOVE that color have been thinking about it for awhile now, but i love my silver and black as well.

i dont really need the keyless entry since mine is mainly a drag car but it does look nice and gives you cool points lol
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Old 03-09-2016, 11:32 PM   #8
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Yep, burnt copper pearl. I don't have a paint booth and rustoleum doesn't make this color so i thought was going to have to pay a paint shop for this one.. i don't remember how i found this, but i stumbled on it about a month ago. I've only done rusto jobs in the last few years, kind of nice to get back out of that box.

Not too many people will see it and think plastidip.
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Old 03-10-2016, 07:15 AM   #9
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Holy **** that is plastidip?? damn...


Looks good except I'm not a fan of the taillights at all but if you like them then rock the crap of them.


Where did you get the true remote start kit from? Would like to know as I'd be interested in doing that.
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Old 03-10-2016, 07:36 AM   #10
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Looks good man. That color pops alot more in topcoat if you ever want to change it up in the future.

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Old 03-10-2016, 09:23 AM   #11
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Holy **** that is plastidip?? damn...


Looks good except I'm not a fan of the taillights at all but if you like them then rock the crap of them.


Where did you get the true remote start kit from? Would like to know as I'd be interested in doing that.
Ya its dip. They've definitely grown a bit since the days of insulating screw driver handles : go to their website and check out the pearls section. There's some seriously mind blowing stuff when you think what it is. And, still removable. I peeled the hood twice before i was happy with my results. I spent about 700 on the material, gun and turbine to spray it. +tape and misc consumables. I think you can slay it with a compressor but their system is actually pretty easy to use. The striping did cause me fits though, solid color would have been super simple.

This was my first full car in dip. Ive done hoods, wheels before but this was a leap in faith. I wss worried it would be a matte finish regardless of the pics i saw. But it came out metalic semi gloss like it was supposed to. And after seeing even Lamborghini is doing factory matte colors it would probably not be an issue if it was

I did most of the paint work instead of sitting on my butt recovering like i was supposed to after having my wisdom teeth out.




The starter, digital guard dog. it's on sale right now for 350. 99% of the install happens in the drivers foot well, pull your seat and the botom dash out and your back will thank you. Overall it wasn't too bad.

I was getting bids to do a basic remote start before i found this one. $500 installed at cartoys type places.
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Old 03-13-2016, 11:40 PM   #12
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This thread inspired me to take a long hard look at Dipyourcar.com and honestly... I may give this a shot. My roof is ****ed, there are nicks and dings all over the paint in this car. Lots of little cosmetic blemishes everywhere but nothing like... terrible. Interior is still a solid 8.5/10, mechanically the car is perfect minus the blown engine of course and 34k miles.

I do not want to pay for a legit $$$ paintjob right now because there are a bunch of cosmetic upgrades I want to do in the future but a cheaper dip job on the stuff I have currently to make the car look great would be a good stopgap and if its real nice who knows. Would be nice to have the ability to just peel and re-spray a messed up panel from a rock chip or just normal wear or heaven forbid some jealous asshat keys it or whatever.
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Old 03-13-2016, 11:49 PM   #13
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Never would have guessed it was Plastidip from the pictures. Nice job!
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Old 03-14-2016, 01:15 PM   #14
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Thanks again I'm planning on 1 or 2 more right now. I have a couple ideas, and a couple blank canvases on wheels... :laugh: The material was pretty easy to work with, but the small striping gave me fits. I ended up reshooting repeatedly. I have a couple ideas on how to make it work without making me cry but haven't tried them out yet.

It has gotten a LOT of attention around town. It took a couple hours to get my oil changed the other day, guys talked cars at me for an hour and a half before they pulled it in.
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Old 03-15-2016, 08:55 PM   #15
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This thread inspired me to take a long hard look at Dipyourcar.com and honestly... I may give this a shot. My roof is ****ed, there are nicks and dings all over the paint in this car. Lots of little cosmetic blemishes everywhere but nothing like... terrible. Interior is still a solid 8.5/10, mechanically the car is perfect minus the blown engine of course and 34k miles.

I do not want to pay for a legit $$$ paintjob right now because there are a bunch of cosmetic upgrades I want to do in the future but a cheaper dip job on the stuff I have currently to make the car look great would be a good stopgap and if its real nice who knows. Would be nice to have the ability to just peel and re-spray a messed up panel from a rock chip or just normal wear or heaven forbid some jealous asshat keys it or whatever.
There are a companies near me that will come to your house and platidip cars, or anything for that matter. A local guy I met at a cruise night had it done, from what he said it was right around $600 or a little less. That wouldnt be a bad option at all at that price. Have a pro do it, but I have seen a lot of novice dippers do pretty good work the first try. Seems like fairly forgiving stuff and process. The job he had done was all one color, and glossifer applied, not like the one in this thread. It was done all black, and had silver wheels, had a really clean look, no stripes at all, only thing not dipped were the wheels and the emblems. Im sure it would add up if a company like this did stripes or a multiple color/coat application. He said they mentioned that they dont really have a set amount of coats, just depends on how many it takes to cover and look good and smooth. I may consider this as well. I have seen a few around me (not Mustangs) in a blue color, makes it look like dull plastic to me, but I like it. Definitely unique, OP did a great job on this one.

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Old 03-16-2016, 12:42 PM   #16
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Thanks again.

The solid colors, and they have quite a few, are pretty easy to work with in my limited experience. Once you get into the clears and pearls it got to be a little more difficult. And the stripes were a major pain.

The spray places I came across have a pretty decent price for the main color. The downside is it covers everything, emblems etc. If you want them a different color it costs extra, door jams, extra, wheel, extra. So on and so on. But there's a lot more work to do the jams so I can see it.

I'd guess I could do an entire care, single color in a few hours start to finish without pulling lights etc and just masking where I had to, 3-5 coats depending on what I'm covering.

I did this one like a regular paint job, pulled everything I could, masked everything else, did inside the doors, trunk and hood. Then base, more masking, going in steps to get the end results, more masking...

I did the full body, wheels, calipers and even the exhaust tips (material is supposed to be good to over 300 degrees), even the running horse is color matched. No more chrome anywhere. But everything is 1 more step that has to be taken and set before you move on.

It added up a lot of hours/days just waiting to be able to close the doors so I could start on the body base. And the color took I think 4-5 coats to give me a solid look, then the striping. I tend to go overboard on ideas and I don't usually end up taking the easiest route and take baby steps, just because I'm learning. I decide how I want something to be, and make it happen. I'm probably irritating to be around :laugh:

I'm picking up a new(to us) car for the wife, she wants about the same color as it has now but with some flake. So I'll see how long it will actually take to just do the exterior.


And my new wheels are in! Going to 315's on the back, should have them mounted in the next day or two.
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Old 03-16-2016, 01:15 PM   #17
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If having a shop do it ask how many gallons they will apply. On a Mustang my minimum is 4 gallons. 5 for pearls. If they are doing less than this go somewhere else.

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Old 03-16-2016, 02:19 PM   #18
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The dipyourcar vids show 3 gallons of base and then it varies for top coat or pearl etc... This is correct?

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Old 03-16-2016, 03:44 PM   #19
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I ordered 4g of base, could have done it in 3 and ended up using about 3.5 But I have a convertible so a good sized chunk doesn't get sprayed. By coat 2 I had pretty good coverage, 3 was a nice solid black and 4+ was just because. You're at an easy to peel thickness at 3 decent coats. I'd worry more about the thickness than the number of gallons used.

The pearl was 2g clear, 1g gloss, 150gr of pearl. Again I ended up using more than I needed since I redid the hood 2 or 3 times, and some work on the sides as well. It was a bit of trial and error. I still have about 1/2g left if I had to guess. If I was doing the entire car in the stripe color I would have used less than 1 gallon of color, 2 coats. It took 4+ to get a solid copper. And you (I learned the hard way) want each clear coat to be fully dry before you start the next. You don't want a wet or a tack to it, it runs easier. Something different than painting paint clear coat in that aspect.


It's in a 5g container now and I keep putting off putting it back into one of the 1g cans for storage.



Man, there's a bit of a difference in width going to the staggered wheels

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Old 03-16-2016, 04:23 PM   #20
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Quote:
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The dipyourcar vids show 3 gallons of base and then it varies for top coat or pearl etc... This is correct?

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I always have extra for when something gets messed up. Had a rear quarter on the last car I did that I didn't like the finished product on. Peeled it back to paint and started over. Red Mustang coupe to satin black and I used 4 gallons. 2 base black plus 1g black and 1 gallon glossifier together.

My first ever dip I tried 3g base with 1g matte clear + pearls and I ended up a little short. Normally have .5 gallons or so left after any dip. Just throw it on other projects to use it up.

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Old 03-17-2016, 03:28 PM   #21
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Any advice from you guys on hitting a roof with a spray bomb can(s) of dip? If this vinyl thing doesn't work for the 3rd try I'm going that route for a temp fix.
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Old 03-17-2016, 03:55 PM   #22
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Don't try to do a large flat area with a spray can and using the nozzle that comes on it. The pattern is too narrow and you'll get streaks. I haven't tried it but for about 1.50 you can get the 'dip nozzle'. It's supposed to give a much wider pattern closer to what you get from a spray gun. It *should* keep the surface even.
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Old 03-17-2016, 04:32 PM   #23
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Ok cool. Will likely give it a shot during the 3 week turnaround time for my cams.

Hopefully it comes out ok. I'm still amazed when I see some of these dipped cars. Yours is fantastic. There is a maroon BMW that is a pro dip as well and seeing that thing completely changed my mind on the stuff.

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Old 04-23-2016, 02:11 PM   #24
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I may have missed the keyless kit you used. I would love to go keyless and get rid of my PATs system. I am not a fan of the factory security. If something goes wrong with the PATs the car is useless.

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Old 04-24-2016, 07:46 AM   #25
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The kit is from digital guard dog, but it does'nt do away with the pats. I'm using a hidden key to keep that happy. I *think* pats can be killed with a tune though.
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Old 04-24-2016, 12:08 PM   #26
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I'm hoping I can turn off the PATs when I get my hands on a programmer / tuner. There has to be an option or ability to get rid of that one feature.

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