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Old 03-26-2016, 10:17 PM   #1
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Check this out !

So I noticed a leak coming from underneath the thermostat housing where the intake manifold is it was coming out pretty quick ? So I took everything apart took off the manifold and this is what I found !!
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Old 03-26-2016, 10:18 PM   #2
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I put this manifold on not even a year ago ? Has anyone ever seen this or had this happen to them ?


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Old 03-26-2016, 10:24 PM   #3
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Not after a year, I replaced my factory one at 170k miles. But that's what mine looked like 2 years ago when I removed mine. I would think that would be under warranty...if I were to do it again, I'd buy a metal intake manifold instead

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Old 03-26-2016, 10:42 PM   #4
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Not after a year, I replaced my factory one at 170k miles. But that's what mine looked like 2 years ago when I removed mine. I would think that would be under warranty...if I were to do it again, I'd buy a metal intake manifold instead

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Right the only reason I replaced my factory one is because my father accidentally snapped the vertical tube that goes into the dash ? Other than that there was no leaks but I bought this one from AM and this happen . Really hurts my heart lol . I just never seen something like that happen . "Nothing against AM will continue to purchase from them "


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Old 03-26-2016, 10:43 PM   #5
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Not after a year, I replaced my factory one at 170k miles. But that's what mine looked like 2 years ago when I removed mine. I would think that would be under warranty...if I were to do it again, I'd buy a metal intake manifold instead

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I looked at the metal ones but spending 500-700$ is a big leap from the plastic 200$ one you know !


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Old 03-27-2016, 12:00 AM   #6
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Is it possible its still under warranty? Not sure what the warranty is on FRPP parts? Give AM a call, maybe they can help you out or get a credit from the manufacturer, because that should NOT have happened after a year.

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Old 03-27-2016, 12:22 AM   #7
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Is it possible its still under warranty? Not sure what the warranty is on FRPP parts? Give AM a call, maybe they can help you out or get a credit from the manufacturer, because that should NOT have happened after a year.

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I don't have the receipt for it anymore ? Does that matter ?


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Old 03-27-2016, 12:57 AM   #8
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If you have an account set up on the AM site it lists all of your purchases. They should have your last order on file. I know they have looked up things Ive ordered that were a year old or older before.

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Old 03-27-2016, 01:05 AM   #9
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If you have an account set up on the AM site it lists all of your purchases. They should have your last order on file. I know they have looked up things Ive ordered that were a year old or older before.

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Yes i just looked it up on my history and it is just a little over a year old . I did email AM so I guess it's just a waiting game now . Still can't believe
That happend


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Old 03-27-2016, 10:04 AM   #10
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I looked at the metal ones but spending 500-700$ is a big leap from the plastic 200$ one you know !


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Yeah, I guess that depends on how many miles you have and how long you plan on keeping the car...I don't remember them being that expensive

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Old 03-27-2016, 10:18 AM   #11
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Yeah, I guess that depends on how many miles you have and how long you plan on keeping the car...I don't remember them being that expensive

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91,000 miles on the car ! And it's my first car I have ever bought so it's gonna stay with me forever . If you can find the intakes cheaper let me know


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Old 03-27-2016, 02:07 PM   #12
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91,000 miles on the car ! And it's my first car I have ever bought so it's gonna stay with me forever . If you can find the intakes cheaper let me know


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I can look later when I get back to school, but the edelbrock one on AM is. around $350, but I'm not sure if that requires other modifications, plus of you have enough ME posts you can get a 6% discount

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Old 03-27-2016, 02:08 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by 04beautyGT View Post
I can look later when I get back to school, but the edelbrock one on AM is. around $350, but I'm not sure if that requires other modifications, plus of you have enough ME posts you can get a 6% discount

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The Victor Jr intake requires new rails and a plenum adaptor if I remember correctly
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Old 03-27-2016, 02:12 PM   #14
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The Victor Jr intake requires new rails and a plenum adaptor if I remember correctly

Can you send me a link I can't find it ?


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Old 03-27-2016, 06:41 PM   #15
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This is the adaptor. http://www.modularmotorsportsracing....roducts_id=108
This is the rails. http://www.modularmotorsportsracing....roducts_id=123
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Old 03-28-2016, 08:00 AM   #16
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That should not happen like that after a year. It is a common failure point in those intakes but after many years or miles and they warp, not snap like that. Did you torque the intake down properly and in the correct sequence in stages?


This is the FRPP intake correct? Not the $200 repro one?


As for the metal ones... the Edelbrock will be between $700 and $800 when all is said and done and you'll lose bottom end. The only one I would buy is the MHS prepped one that comes with the rails already modified and installed and the 6061 plenum.


The Pro Products one is a pile of crap. Performance is no better, casting flash issues, heavier and will heat soak vs the plastic one that will not.


A properly installed FRPP intake manifold will last many years and will not do what is seen in the picture. As I said it will eventually warp at the area under the tstat but it will not look like that and it'll take a good 5 or 10 years to do it.
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Old 03-28-2016, 11:00 AM   #17
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That should not happen like that after a year. It is a common failure point in those intakes but after many years or miles and they warp, not snap like that. Did you torque the intake down properly and in the correct sequence in stages?


This is the FRPP intake correct? Not the $200 repro one?


As for the metal ones... the Edelbrock will be between $700 and $800 when all is said and done and you'll lose bottom end. The only one I would buy is the MHS prepped one that comes with the rails already modified and installed and the 6061 plenum.


The Pro Products one is a pile of crap. Performance is no better, casting flash issues, heavier and will heat soak vs the plastic one that will not.


A properly installed FRPP intake manifold will last many years and will not do what is seen in the picture. As I said it will eventually warp at the area under the tstat but it will not look like that and it'll take a good 5 or 10 years to do it.

It is the replacement one from American muscle !
Yes when I put it on even had a mechanic there with me and was torqued down in sequence .


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Old 03-28-2016, 11:20 AM   #18
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That should not happen like that after a year. It is a common failure point in those intakes but after many years or miles and they warp, not snap like that. Did you torque the intake down properly and in the correct sequence in stages?


This is the FRPP intake correct? Not the $200 repro one?


As for the metal ones... the Edelbrock will be between $700 and $800 when all is said and done and you'll lose bottom end. The only one I would buy is the MHS prepped one that comes with the rails already modified and installed and the 6061 plenum.


The Pro Products one is a pile of crap. Performance is no better, casting flash issues, heavier and will heat soak vs the plastic one that will not.


A properly installed FRPP intake manifold will last many years and will not do what is seen in the picture. As I said it will eventually warp at the area under the tstat but it will not look like that and it'll take a good 5 or 10 years to do it.

How much does the MHS run ?


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Old 03-28-2016, 11:53 AM   #19
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It is the replacement one from American muscle !
Yes when I put it on even had a mechanic there with me and was torqued down in sequence .


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Get the FRPP one next time. Willing to bet it a cheaper plastic compound than Ford uses.

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How much does the MHS run ?


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$800 for the intake, fuel rails and plenum.
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Old 03-28-2016, 12:18 PM   #20
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Get the FRPP one next time. Willing to bet it a cheaper plastic compound than Ford uses.



$800 for the intake, fuel rails and plenum.

Where do you get frpp? Or what is that exactly ?


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Old 03-28-2016, 12:20 PM   #21
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Get the FRPP one next time. Willing to bet it a cheaper plastic compound than Ford uses.



$800 for the intake, fuel rails and plenum.

Or is that the ford racing intake ?


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Old 03-28-2016, 01:03 PM   #22
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Where do you get frpp? Or what is that exactly ?


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FRPP=Ford Racing Performance Parts. Yes, the $260 or whatever it costs now intake. AM and LRS sell it.
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Old 03-28-2016, 05:38 PM   #23
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FRPP=Ford Racing Performance Parts. Yes, the $260 or whatever it costs now intake. AM and LRS sell it.

So it be better to get the frpp intake this time ?


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Old 03-28-2016, 05:43 PM   #24
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Lol yes

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Old 03-28-2016, 08:20 PM   #25
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Lol yes

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Ok thanks man


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Old 03-29-2016, 07:21 AM   #26
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Buy the FRPP intake. Buy Fel Pro gaskets from Rockauto. Print off the torque sequence and tape it to the hood or something so its right the hell in front of you. Take a tap and die kit and really clean all the threads of the bolts going back in if they are crudded. Make sure the heads are ofmg clean. Torque the bolts in sequence to 10 ft lbs. Then do it again to 16 ft lbs. Then final torque it to 22 ft lbs. Put the car back together and it should be good. Recommend going over the intake bolts again after a few heat cycles and a final time after a week or so to verify nothing has loosened.


One good thing to maybe do when you get your new intake is to pull the metal crossover and drill/tap the flat section next to the tstat housing for a second water temp sensor. Its the OEM location in 96-98 cars for the second water temp sensor so its 100% the ideal spot to put an aftermarket one. You need bits up to 9/16" and a $10 set of NPT taps from Harbor Freight.
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Old 03-29-2016, 01:05 PM   #27
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I bought the intake from lmr and the trick flow gaskets from there ? It came with 2 for like 45$ I hope those will be okay ?


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---------- Post added at 12:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:05 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
Buy the FRPP intake. Buy Fel Pro gaskets from Rockauto. Print off the torque sequence and tape it to the hood or something so its right the hell in front of you. Take a tap and die kit and really clean all the threads of the bolts going back in if they are crudded. Make sure the heads are ofmg clean. Torque the bolts in sequence to 10 ft lbs. Then do it again to 16 ft lbs. Then final torque it to 22 ft lbs. Put the car back together and it should be good. Recommend going over the intake bolts again after a few heat cycles and a final time after a week or so to verify nothing has loosened.


One good thing to maybe do when you get your new intake is to pull the metal crossover and drill/tap the flat section next to the tstat housing for a second water temp sensor. Its the OEM location in 96-98 cars for the second water temp sensor so its 100% the ideal spot to put an aftermarket one. You need bits up to 9/16" and a $10 set of NPT taps from Harbor Freight.




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Old 03-29-2016, 06:52 PM   #28
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Buy the FRPP intake. Buy Fel Pro gaskets from Rockauto. Print off the torque sequence and tape it to the hood or something so its right the hell in front of you. Take a tap and die kit and really clean all the threads of the bolts going back in if they are crudded. Make sure the heads are ofmg clean. Torque the bolts in sequence to 10 ft lbs. Then do it again to 16 ft lbs. Then final torque it to 22 ft lbs. Put the car back together and it should be good. Recommend going over the intake bolts again after a few heat cycles and a final time after a week or so to verify nothing has loosened.


One good thing to maybe do when you get your new intake is to pull the metal crossover and drill/tap the flat section next to the tstat housing for a second water temp sensor. Its the OEM location in 96-98 cars for the second water temp sensor so its 100% the ideal spot to put an aftermarket one. You need bits up to 9/16" and a $10 set of NPT taps from Harbor Freight.

I orderd everything last night so hopefully those gaskets will do ?


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Old 03-29-2016, 08:09 PM   #29
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Does anybody know what the bolt patter would be to tighten the bolts down in sequence ? I know the right torque specs just don't know what direction to start ?


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Old 03-30-2016, 09:23 AM   #30
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Google it there are a ton of pics on how to.
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Old 03-30-2016, 10:05 AM   #31
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Does anybody know what the bolt patter would be to tighten the bolts down in sequence ? I know the right torque specs just don't know what direction to start ?


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Also be sure and flip over the new intake when you get it and make sure that the thermostat crossover bolts are properly torqued before even starting anything else.... They have been known to come loose from the factory.... this may have been where your last one failed

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Old 03-30-2016, 10:17 AM   #32
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Also be sure and flip over the new intake when you get it and make sure that the thermostat crossover bolts are properly torqued before even starting anything else.... They have been known to come loose from the factory.... this may have been where your last one failed

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+1, I didn't do that and now I have one loose bolt I can't reach...one of these days I'll get a bolt puller in there

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Old 03-30-2016, 10:23 AM   #33
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Also be sure and flip over the new intake when you get it and make sure that the thermostat crossover bolts are properly torqued before even starting anything else.... They have been known to come loose from the factory.... this may have been where your last one failed

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Than you I will surely check that !!


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Old 03-30-2016, 02:24 PM   #34
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Just don't go trying to tighten those bolts like crazy or anything... You just need to get them good and snug. They are little and they are going into aluminum through relatively thin plastic.


I still say now is a good time to pull said crossover and drill/tap for an aftermarket water temp sender.
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Old 03-31-2016, 12:56 PM   #35
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Just don't go trying to tighten those bolts like crazy or anything... You just need to get them good and snug. They are little and they are going into aluminum through relatively thin plastic.


I still say now is a good time to pull said crossover and drill/tap for an aftermarket water temp sender.

It's a 2002 model is that necessary on these ? I heard people doing that on like 96-99?


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