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2002 Roush 360R #071 Build Thread

9K views 99 replies 14 participants last post by  scottydsntknow 
#1 · (Edited)
Well, I figured I should go ahead and make a build thread. I don't have much of a plan yet but it will help me organize my thoughts and ideas as well as keep information in one place. I don't know that you could call it a "build" yet. But some day I hope it will be. Right now it's a totally stock 360R with a couple minor issues that I need to work out as well as some things I would like to do to the car to boost power some. Everything should be tasteful enough to not devalue the car. Thanks for reading guys! I will be asking questions and when I modify or do things to the car I will update it here. Thank you in advance for putting up with me!
 
#31 ·
Get it tuned by a good tuner and roll. Overspinning the m90 is just going to make it heat up like crazy.

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#32 · (Edited)
If you want the Roush TVS blower you'll have to find a manifold that it can bolt on to. Then make a custom intake system for the supercharger. The inlet on the blower is on the right side and your CAI system is on the left side of your engine.
If you want to put a smaller pulley on it; upgrading the cooling system is a good idea. It will assist in dealing with the heat soak. Believe me I'm running into the same issues with my 3V Roush. I'm going with the 2.49" pulley from VMP with their 90mm idler. Heat soak is big factor with our cars.
 
#33 ·
Thanks for the replys. I will definitely have to figure something out when I come to that bridge. It won't be easy to get a 2.3 on there. Maybe I'll just have to ditch that idea at some point. What is the best way to upgrade the cooling system on the car? I haven't seen any issues with a 2.8 pulley. I have a couple friends that have done the pulley swap. Although, it wouldn't surprise me to see heat issues either.

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#34 ·
So I have had a rattling in what seemed like the bell housing. I had a mechanic friend diagnose the rattle and he said it sounds like a piece of my clutch is rattling around. So it seems I'm replacing the clutch now. I know that I need a clutch, ford TOB and Pilot bearing. Now, do I NEED to get another flywheel? I'm really bothered about throwing down that much money. ( I know that cars cost money) but if it doesn't need it then I would rather replace it later on when timing is better. What do you guys think? Also, I was planning on getting the Spec stage 2 clutch kit. Thanks in advance!

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#35 ·
Might be able to get it resurfaced.

Have to get it out first to have a good look see at it.

It's kinda like brake rotors though in my opinion, it would always be in the back of my mind that I should have put a new one in when I had it apart rather than going the cheaper route.




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#43 ·
So what do you guys think? Don't remove the flywheel at all assuming it looks okay, Re-use the flywheel bolts or spend the money on an ARP flywheel bolt set? This could be a stupid question.

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#44 ·
Well, I purchased the bolts. No reason to skimp on the installation now. I will have time this weekend to pill the Trans and see if I really need a flywheel or not.

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---------- Post added at 11:52 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:52 AM ----------

*pull

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#45 ·
So, the third starter bolt is now rounded off. These are such a pain to get to. What is the best way to get the bolt off now that the head is rounded? The socket will spin when pressure is applied.

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#53 ·
So it was a pain in the ***, but I managed to get mine out using a mid length 13mm socket (1/4drive) and about 4" of extensions. It out the ratchet at just the perfect point to break it loose.
 
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