Rear End Noise Under Acceleration Over 50MPH - Mustang Evolution

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Old 04-21-2016, 08:57 AM   #1
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Rear End Noise Under Acceleration Over 50MPH

I am beginning to get extremely frustrated with my newly acquired 2002 GT. I knew it would need a little work, but I am discovering more than I expected to deal with.

I am not a pro when it comes to axles, diffs, and gears. I understand how they work, but I am car from what I would consider competent.

While driving, once the car reaches about 50MPH I hear a howl that is ridiculously loud (in my opinion). The noise only exists when maintaining speed or accelerating. If the car is coasting or decelerating there is no noise at all.

The previous owner claimed to have had 3.73 gears installed about a year ago. I am not sure how to confirm this. The speedometer reads correct, so I can assume the computer was adjusted for the change if there was one.

I have not checked the fluid yet. However, I do not expect to find it to be low. There are no signs of leaking.

Ideas?

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Old 04-21-2016, 10:21 AM   #2
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Did he say if when the gears were installed was there a spool, locker or factory traclok used? If it was factory was the additive added to the oil? Also if it's howling it could also mean it's not shimmed or set right. Gear install isn't too complicated but if they didn't use a install kit with new crush sleeve it could be that. Need to talk to the previous owner and get more details.

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Old 04-21-2016, 10:32 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by 95v686gt View Post
Did he say if when the gears were installed was there a spool, locker or factory traclok used? If it was factory was the additive added to the oil? Also if it's howling it could also mean it's not shimmed or set right. Gear install isn't too complicated but if they didn't use a install kit with new crush sleeve it could be that. Need to talk to the previous owner and get more details.

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Coming soon GT40 Heads Intake and e303 cam with Long tubes
Unfortunately the guy is clueless. I wish I was familiar enough with differentials and gearing to open it up and see the problem. I would love to see this be a simple fix.

I'm not exactly in the position to purchase a new set of gears and bearings at the moment. However, I have to drive this car as a daily driver at the moment.

If new gears are needed I plan to install them myself. I don't know any way to learn except through experience.

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Old 04-21-2016, 10:41 AM   #4
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I just sent a text to the previous owner. Hopefully he knew what was being installed and how.

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Old 04-21-2016, 10:55 AM   #5
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Once you pull the diff cover, look for metal in the oil coming out and in the housing. Inspect the ring gear for wear. (Metal shaved off the teeth, chunks missing etc etc). If you find nothing, take some cleaner and clean the carrier as well as possible. Then get a grease pencil and color a section of the gears, spin them one full turn to were the section you colored has made contact with the pinion. Make sure it has even contact all the way thru and meshed properly with the pinion gear. If it doesn't, pull center section and replace with a FRPP carrier install kit with NEW crush sleeve.

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Old 04-21-2016, 10:59 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95v686gt View Post
Once you pull the diff cover, look for metal in the oil coming out and in the housing. Inspect the ring gear for wear. (Metal shaved off the teeth, chunks missing etc etc). If you find nothing, take some cleaner and clean the carrier as well as possible. Then get a grease pencil and color a section of the gears, spin them one full turn to were the section you colored has made contact with the pinion. Make sure it has even contact all the way thru and meshed properly with the pinion gear. If it doesn't, pull center section and replace with a FRPP carrier install kit with NEW crush sleeve.

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So what you're saying is that I could possibly get away with only an install kit without replacing the entire rear end?

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Old 04-21-2016, 11:05 AM   #7
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If the ring gear is not hurt and there's no metal in it. But if it is a factory traclok, make sure you put in the recommended oil and additive for it. Wrong oil with no additive can also cause issues. I've heard you can use the Lucas synthetic gear oil and not have to use the additive but I'm not sure on that.

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1997 Mustang GT: 4.6L DOHC http://www.mustangevolution.com/forum/f280/t305270/
1986 Mustang GT= Built 302 SOLD
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Old 04-21-2016, 11:08 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95v686gt View Post
If the ring gear is not hurt and there's no metal in it. But if it is a factory traclok, make sure you put in the recommended oil and additive for it. Wrong oil with no additive can also cause issues. I've heard you can use the Lucas synthetic gear oil and not have to use the additive but I'm not sure on that.

95 GT BBK CAI TB MSD 6AL O/R H SLP LM1
Coming soon GT40 Heads Intake and e303 cam with Long tubes
The bad part for me is that I won't know if it has a factory locker, or a different style. It looks like I will need some research.

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Old 04-21-2016, 11:13 AM   #9
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When you pull the cover, you'll see a big gear which is the ring gear. If it's factory when you look at it, it'll have like 4 gears in the middle with a big clip that is in between 2 of them and a pin running thru the center. Look the carrier over really well for a Ford stamp and part number.

I could be wrong on the looks. But if it's got a Ford stamp nine times out of ten it's factory with a different ring and pinion.
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Coming soon GT40 Heads Intake and e303 cam with Long tubes
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1997 Mustang GT: 4.6L DOHC http://www.mustangevolution.com/forum/f280/t305270/
1986 Mustang GT= Built 302 SOLD
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Old 04-21-2016, 11:20 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95v686gt View Post
When you pull the cover, you'll see a big gear which is the ring gear. If it's factory when you look at it, it'll have like 4 gears in the middle with a big clip that is in between 2 of them and a pin running thru the center. Look the carrier over really well for a Ford stamp and part number.

I could be wrong on the looks. But if it's got a Ford stamp nine times out of ten it's factory with a different ring and pinion.
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Coming soon GT40 Heads Intake and e303 cam with Long tubes
In your opinion, do you think this inspection and tear down can wait until next weekend? I know that is a ridiculous question to ask. No one knows what is behind the diff cover yet.

The worst that can happen is a complete detonation of the rear end as it becomes its own grenade. The axles could slide out, the car could find itself totalled. I'm not sure I like my optimistic outlook.

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Old 04-21-2016, 11:22 AM   #11
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OK other than the noise does it do anything out of the ordinary? Clunks? Vibrations?

95 GT BBK CAI TB MSD 6AL O/R H SLP LM1
Coming soon GT40 Heads Intake and e303 cam with Long tubes
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Old 04-21-2016, 11:30 AM   #12
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Does is sound like mine? I had 3.73 installed. I swapped out the entire rear-end with a factory 3.73 rear end because I didn't want to deal with trying to fix it and running in to more problems..

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Old 04-21-2016, 11:36 AM   #13
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A noisy rear end is normally caused by a bad install or gear oil with no additive. It's not as simple as bolt it in and go. The shims have to be installed correctly and in their place they came out of. The pinion angle has to be set properly. The crush sleeve has to be replaced. And if it's a traklock or limited slip you have to use the proper oil or use a additive in the oil to keep from ruining your carrier

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Old 04-21-2016, 11:37 AM   #14
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Quote:
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Does is sound like mine? I had 3.73 installed. I swapped out the entire rear-end with a factory 3.73 rear end because I didn't want to deal with trying to fix it and running in to more problems..

Your video sounds almost like a whine. I have a droning roar. If my car had an aftermarket exhaust I would assume it to be an obnoxious exhaust note.



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Old 04-21-2016, 11:38 AM   #15
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Bet if you pull the cover and grease pin the gear, you'll find the ring and pinion not meshed properly

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Coming soon GT40 Heads Intake and e303 cam with Long tubes
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1997 Mustang GT: 4.6L DOHC http://www.mustangevolution.com/forum/f280/t305270/
1986 Mustang GT= Built 302 SOLD
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Old 04-21-2016, 11:40 AM   #16
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OK other than the noise does it do anything out of the ordinary? Clunks? Vibrations?

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Nothing out of the ordinary that I have noticed. No griding when turning. No vibrations. I have not noticed any clunking.

I don't drive aggressively. I'm likely one of the most peculiar people you will meet when it comes to vehicle maintainance and care. I broke enough stuff racing when I was a kid.

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Old 04-21-2016, 11:41 AM   #17
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Just baby it and if it goes to doing anything else park it.

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Old 04-21-2016, 11:42 AM   #18
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Bet if you pull the cover and grease pin the gear, you'll find the ring and pinion not meshed properly

95 GT BBK CAI TB MSD 6AL O/R H SLP LM1
Coming soon GT40 Heads Intake and e303 cam with Long tubes
I hope that I can clearly see the meshing issue. This is a new venture for me.

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Old 04-21-2016, 11:44 AM   #19
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Grease pen is yellow and will show the pattern of the teeth meshing on the ring gear. Google Ring and pinion gear install. It'll show you what I'm talking about

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Coming soon GT40 Heads Intake and e303 cam with Long tubes
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1997 Mustang GT: 4.6L DOHC http://www.mustangevolution.com/forum/f280/t305270/
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Old 04-21-2016, 11:46 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by 95v686gt View Post
Grease pen is yellow and will show the pattern of the teeth meshing on the ring gear. Google Ring and pinion gear install. It'll show you what I'm talking about

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Perfect! Thank you.

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Old 04-21-2016, 12:04 PM   #21
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Watching a few videos, and it looks like a press and a torque wrench are needed.

The last thing I need to pay is labor at the moment. Not that I don't want to pay someone, I'm just stretched financially at the moment. As I general rule I like to pay and then tip whoever does the work.

Now I'm just whining and complaining.



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Old 04-21-2016, 12:16 PM   #22
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My car was making a similar noise when I purchased it. Turns out it was a bad axle bearing. The axle also needed to be replaced due to the failed bearing.
Lift the rear wheels off the ground and rotate them while listening for any abnormal noises. On my car, it was easy to tell which bearing needed replacement.
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