Can't hook to save my life after clutch - Mustang Evolution

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Old 04-22-2016, 10:50 AM   #1
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Can't hook to save my life after clutch

Well I'm slowly finding out how much of a bad idea putting a clutch rated for 500ftlbs in a car with 300 is...
I used to be able to slip the stock clutch and dead hook all the way through first and I could shift into second as hard as I wanted and it wouldn't spin at all.

Now I have a McLeod clutch in there. It has literally made my car impossible to hook. Just got done putting h&r super sport springs and koni yellow adjustable shocks and struts figuring that would help but it still blows the tires off no matter what I try. I have nitro 555 315/35-17s that are the same tires that I could get to hook just fine on the stock clutch. Still have good tread.
Was really banking on the idea the springs, shocks and struts were gonna help my problem but to no avail. I'm losing to cars I used to destroy because all it does is spin. New clutch transfers power to the tires too damn well.. Lower control arms and subframe connectors are next but I have little faith that those will allow me to hook like I once could on the stock clutch. Any other ideas? Don't say driver mod either -.-


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Old 04-22-2016, 01:44 PM   #2
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If a simple clutch replacement is causing sheepskin where it did not before, I would like to think you had a clutch that was slipping. Then again, you could have been enjoying the benefit of a longer release on the clutch.

Now that you have a clutch that is grabbing, you need to make a few adjustments. You may want to practice your launches and find the sweet spot in allowing the clutch to slip just enough to keep the tires from spinning.

If you want the ability to dump the clutch and launch without spinning a bit of work is going to be involved. There needs to be a transfer of weight as the car launches. In other words, you will end up rebuilding the rear suspension specifically for drag racing. You will also benefit from a set of tires with a softer compound.

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Old 04-22-2016, 02:13 PM   #3
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If a simple clutch replacement is causing sheepskin where it did not before, I would like to think you had a clutch that was slipping. Then again, you could have been enjoying the benefit of a longer release on the clutch.

Now that you have a clutch that is grabbing, you need to make a few adjustments. You may want to practice your launches and find the sweet spot in allowing the clutch to slip just enough to keep the tires from spinning.

If you want the ability to dump the clutch and launch without spinning a bit of work is going to be involved. There needs to be a transfer of weight as the car launches. In other words, you will end up rebuilding the rear suspension specifically for drag racing. You will also benefit from a set of tires with a softer compound.

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+1 Car has to have a sweet spot.
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Old 04-23-2016, 01:48 AM   #4
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I have nitto 555 315/35-17s. Don't say driver mod either -.-
Hate to say it but changing these two things will make it much easier to hook. That being said, subframe connectors and lower control arms will still help it plant the rear end.
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Old 04-23-2016, 10:00 AM   #5
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Going to try the ldc free play mod. My problem is my clutch literally grabs at the last inch at the very top, and when you have a clutch that is so on/off like this one it makes it so much more difficult


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Old 04-23-2016, 10:14 AM   #6
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Doesn't sound like a hooking problem , sounds like a clutch slip problem lol
Are you dead sure the disc is grabbing ?

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Old 04-23-2016, 10:18 AM   #7
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Welcome to grabbing power. Those springs hurt you more than they helped you.

If you want traction go back to factory springs. Cut a coil off if you want drop. Aftermarket lca's (not the cheap am ones) and a decent tire will get you there.

I think my Focus would spin the 555's.

For clutch adjustment you need a firewall adjuster and quadrant. If that doesn't give you enough add an adjustable fork. All are common upgrades with a decent clutch

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Old 04-23-2016, 10:24 AM   #8
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Going to try the ldc free play mod. My problem is my clutch literally grabs at the last inch at the very top, and when you have a clutch that is so on/off like this one it makes it so much more difficult


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I agree completely, when you have a clutch that grabs with no play to allow for slippage it makes things tough. Unfortunately that means you have more clutch than you do engine and drive train.

For some it may not make sense to compare a car to a motorcycle, but I have a point that shares a similarity between the two. I used to drag race bikes. I did not use wheelie bars or slicks. I also kept my swing arm as close to stock as I could. I was a grudge racer, and sleepers get races.

Back to the point. I was running low 8 sec on a naturally aspirated Hayabusa. That isn't a hard feat to achieve. I found myself with a problem though. The stock clutch would burn up after a weekend of qualifying and then through the eliminations. I added a stronger clutch that would give me longer life, and grab harder.

On my first test hit I realized that my clutch was an on and off switch. I had a bike that hooked hard. My job was to find the balance point of wheelies and launching. I ended up launching at a much lower RPM to control the bike. That led to the engine bogging. My ETs suffered.

My next option was to use stock springs with aggressive clutch plates. I had more clutch than motor with the higher rate springs. With the stock springs I could launch at a higher RPM and control the bike. My 60ft times dropped, which shaved a bit off of my 1/4 mile time.

Right now you have more clutch than you do power. That is the only answer I can assume without putting my eyes on the car while you make a pass.

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Old 04-23-2016, 10:33 AM   #9
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One more example of having too much clutch. When I bought my 02 GT the previous owner had a stage 1 clutch installed along with a shorter rear end. I actually had to train myself to drive the car. The clutch is literally an on and off switch for street use. There is more clutch than engine power. A clutch is designed to slip to a certain point. The clutch in the car now does not function like it should. It will give you whiplash, snatch, and backlash throughout the drive train. None of this is good for the car.

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Old 04-23-2016, 09:36 PM   #10
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I have 4.10 gears too which doesn't help me hook any either combined with this clutch. The 4.10 gear and stock clutch combo was killer. Could launch so hard and slam gears without spinning at all. Beat my friends 09 GT when I was on stock clutch by 3 car lengths believe it or not. All 3 races we did. He was so pissed lol. Raced him the other night and almost slid into his lane and then the ditch after shifting hard into 2nd gear like I used to be able to do. Clutch is just too strong for my weak *** 2v I agree lol


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Old 04-25-2016, 02:46 PM   #11
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Don't do the free play mod. That is a really stupid mod. 1 it will do nothing to alleviate your issue and 2, the throw out bearing is designed to always be spinning and should be preloaded on the clutch fingers. Free play mod=tob goes from 0-6k RPM in a split second metal on metal and that is really bad for it.

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Old 04-25-2016, 07:10 PM   #12
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Don't do the free play mod. That is a really stupid mod. 1 it will do nothing to alleviate your issue and 2, the throw out bearing is designed to always be spinning and should be preloaded on the clutch fingers. Free play mod=tob goes from 0-6k RPM in a split second metal on metal and that is really bad for it.

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I know you disapprove of the free play mod, but you might remember the long process and all the **** I went through trying to cure clutch pedal vibration. Well 3 clutches later and currently 2500 miles on this McLeod and still the same problem. No longer find joy driving it it annoys me so much so it's time to try something different. Besides, if my tob goes out I can get in there and take that heavy *** 90$ flywheel I have in there and put the stock resurfaced one back in


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Old 04-26-2016, 12:52 PM   #13
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I know you disapprove of the free play mod, but you might remember the long process and all the **** I went through trying to cure clutch pedal vibration. Well 3 clutches later and currently 2500 miles on this McLeod and still the same problem. No longer find joy driving it it annoys me so much so it's time to try something different. Besides, if my tob goes out I can get in there and take that heavy *** 90$ flywheel I have in there and put the stock resurfaced one back in


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^Yup. My freeplay spring got rid of my clutch pedal rattle and vibrations. And my TOB is still slightly preloaded, just like the stock setup with the plastic spring loaded quadrant. It's probably not going to help your situation much at all, but it will give a more consistent feel, which is always good. Hell, I noticed my clutch slippage window go to an on/off feel on my Exedy Mach 350 clutch. It's just how the pressure plates are designed, because it's considered a "race" clutch lol. I think you can learn to slip it a little more once get used to it. It'll never be like the stock clutch. But, I can slip mine a lot more now than I could when I first replaced the stock one.

Seems like that heavier flywheel would be better for feel than a lighter one. I hear that you basically need to re-learn your launches when people upgrade to aluminum light weight clutches. That's what I've read anyways.
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