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Old 05-02-2016, 10:06 PM   #1
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Help me guys

Ok so I recently changed my mustangs cams to comp cams stage two and also put Pi heads and re wired the battery to the back but the problem is that now my car will not start, it took me a while to do all this work considering I work but I finished but car won't start the cars does a loud click noise I checked the battery and wiring and everything is fine I checked the starter it also works fine I checked the starter relay and it all works fine but car will not turn on does anybody have an idea of what it could be??
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Old 05-02-2016, 10:44 PM   #2
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Dead battery

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Old 05-02-2016, 11:04 PM   #3
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The battery is fully charged
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Old 05-03-2016, 11:28 AM   #4
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bad battery/loose connection/bad solinoid
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Old 05-03-2016, 12:31 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Justa2v View Post
Ok so I recently changed my mustangs cams to comp cams stage two and also put Pi heads and re wired the battery to the back but the problem is that now my car will not start, it took me a while to do all this work considering I work but I finished but car won't start the cars does a loud click noise I checked the battery and wiring and everything is fine I checked the starter it also works fine I checked the starter relay and it all works fine but car will not turn on does anybody have an idea of what it could be??
When you say you checked the starter, I assume it was on the car and it cranked the engine(although not started). In other words, the engine CAN turn?
From reviewing many videos on the general subject, they mention one thing that may apply to your situation. That is, checking the voltage drop on the cables that run from the battery to the starter. On the positive cable, when trying to crank, voltage drop should not exceed 0.7 volts.
On the negative cable, voltage drop should not exceed 0.25 volts.

This was mentioned on this video, around 8:52.
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Old 05-04-2016, 06:26 PM   #6
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It didn't crank the engine at all, all it does was a loud clicking noise I know that noise is from the starter but I checked the starter while it was on the car and off the car and it worked perfectly fine
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Old 05-04-2016, 09:04 PM   #7
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It didn't crank the engine at all, all it does was a loud clicking noise I know that noise is from the starter but I checked the starter while it was on the car and off the car and it worked perfectly fine
Well that's good.
The fact that you're getting a click should mean that the low voltage side of the solenoid is getting powered.
So sounds like having the battery in the trunk makes it tough for testing voltage drop during cranking but doable.
I assume the leads from and back to the battery are properly sized for the distance, based on a pre-engineered kit or guidelines. ?? Like 2-gauge minimum. All ground connections must be to unpainted surfaces, etc, etc.

EDIT: How did you check the starter while it was on the car? By bringing 12 Volt directly to the solenoid? I was thinking that if you got it to turn and it engaged the flywheel, that it would turn the engine, eliminating a mechanical problem. Of course that is unlikely since I assume it was working just fine before you made the battery change.
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Old 05-04-2016, 10:59 PM   #8
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Yeah I brought twelve volts directly to it and it worked but it doesn't spin the flywheel if it did it would at least crank the engine but nothing happens only the loud click and yeah I did everything by the book on relocating the battery at this point I'm thinking it maybe the ecm cause the car wasn't running for a while maybe it isn't reading the key or something
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Old 05-05-2016, 05:45 AM   #9
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put a multimeter on the battery measure voltage before and when cranking then repeat on starter.

I'm sticking with my original guess of battery/cables till then
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Old 05-06-2016, 12:41 AM   #10
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put a multimeter on the battery measure voltage before and when cranking then repeat on starter.

I'm sticking with my original guess of battery/cables till then
Ok I'll test it with a multimeter and I was also thinking maybe it could be the crankshaft positioning sensor
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Old 05-06-2016, 01:00 AM   #11
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I assume that the battery is properly grounded to the original location on the engine block?

The longer battery cables are going to draw more amps from the battery to start the engine than was required when the battery was located in the engine compartment. If your battery is weak, it may have started the engine before relocating the battery, but doesn't have enough energy now.
Have you tried jump starting the car with another running vehicle?
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Old 05-06-2016, 01:22 AM   #12
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Yeah I tried that and the car didn't start it did the same thing as before just the clicking noise and that's it
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Old 05-08-2016, 06:58 AM   #13
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I ran into the same issue a couple years ago on my old mustang. After replacing the starter and battery on it my problem turned out to be a poor connection on one of the ground cables from the battery. Make sure all of them are clean and tight.
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