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Old 06-24-2016, 10:57 AM   #1
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Keeping the 2v

So after a few tough weeks , I decided to keep the 2v instead of going for a debt for the next 6 years.

So the clutch and tranny pretty much died at the same time.

I just stole my friends 3650 with 40k miles , flywheel, exedy stage 2 clutch, and mgw short throw shifter , all for $500.

I'm still debating if I should try doing it myself or paying $400 for labor.

Any thoughts guys?


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Old 06-24-2016, 11:27 AM   #2
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Keeping the 2v

If you don't have time then let a shop do it.
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Old 06-24-2016, 11:38 AM   #3
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The transmission swap shouldn't take more than an afternoon with a few buddies. I personally would do the work myself and use the $400 in labor towards another mod.

Glad to hear you're keeping the 2V.

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Old 06-24-2016, 11:47 AM   #4
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If you can part with $400 and not lose sleep over it, let a shop do it.


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Old 06-24-2016, 12:51 PM   #5
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If you can part with $400 and not lose sleep over it, let a shop do it.


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That's what I'm leaning towards more, I don't have much time to do it


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Old 06-24-2016, 02:54 PM   #6
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I would do it myself. It's not like it's a difficult job, also $400 is $400. I'd spend an hour or so a night on it till I got it fixed before dishing out money. I'm also very paranoid about letting someone drive my car, what if they hot rod it? Lol.
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Old 06-24-2016, 08:04 PM   #7
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Do you have lift access? If no then pay the shop. If you do, DIY with a friend.

Also make DAMN sure they fill it correctly with 3.2 quarts of fluid, do NOT set the stops on the shifter (remove the stops prior) and supply them with a new OEM TB and Pilot.

$400 for a trans/clutch change is actually really REALLY cheap and I dunno how you got all that stuff for $500 but you better be picking up your buddy's bar tab next time you guys go out haha.
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Old 06-24-2016, 09:09 PM   #8
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Do you have lift access? If no then pay the shop. If you do, DIY with a friend.

Also make DAMN sure they fill it correctly with 3.2 quarts of fluid, do NOT set the stops on the shifter (remove the stops prior) and supply them with a new OEM TB and Pilot.

$400 for a trans/clutch change is actually really REALLY cheap and I dunno how you got all that stuff for $500 but you better be picking up your buddy's bar tab next time you guys go out haha.
That is a great deal on both accounts!

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Old 06-25-2016, 10:59 AM   #9
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That is a great deal on both accounts!

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Yea it's for sure a great deal


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Old 06-27-2016, 10:51 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
Do you have lift access? If no then pay the shop. If you do, DIY with a friend.

Also make DAMN sure they fill it correctly with 3.2 quarts of fluid, do NOT set the stops on the shifter (remove the stops prior) and supply them with a new OEM TB and Pilot.

$400 for a trans/clutch change is actually really REALLY cheap and I dunno how you got all that stuff for $500 but you better be picking up your buddy's bar tab next time you guys go out haha.

What oil do you recommend?


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Old 06-27-2016, 11:05 AM   #11
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Pennzoil Synchromesh.
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Old 06-29-2016, 04:07 PM   #12
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Alright guys ! Got it back , after a month, I'm so happy with the results , the car just feels so much better with the shifter and clutch , and the exhaust is a bit better but still there , sigh.


But oh well here it is with my gf try to make me choose between her *** or the car's Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1467238060.210711.jpg
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Old 06-29-2016, 05:06 PM   #13
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Nice errr, rear end! 😳


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Old 06-29-2016, 06:32 PM   #14
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Alright guys ! Got it back , after a month, I'm so happy with the results , the car just feels so much better with the shifter and clutch , and the exhaust is a bit better but still there , sigh.


But oh well here it is with my gf try to make me choose between her *** or the car's Attachment 202949


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Car?? What car?


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Old 06-30-2016, 10:29 AM   #15
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Car?? What car?


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The car lol,

On a serious note, I'm leaking from where the exhaust manifold connects to the mid pipe, is there anyway to fix this besides replacing the whole manifold ?

Like welding them together or something?


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Old 06-30-2016, 02:32 PM   #16
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The car lol,

On a serious note, I'm leaking from where the exhaust manifold connects to the mid pipe, is there anyway to fix this besides replacing the whole manifold ?

Like welding them together or something?


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Go to an exhaust shop they can fix it they should be able to make a flange for it

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Old 07-05-2016, 01:09 PM   #17
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Go to an exhaust shop they can fix it they should be able to make a flange for it

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Nope no flange , it's leaking where the manifold meets the mid pipe


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Old 07-05-2016, 06:14 PM   #18
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Nope no flange , it's leaking where the manifold meets the mid pipe


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What side passenger or drivers side if it's the passenger then you need a new exhaust gasket ir the drivers the a flange

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Old 07-05-2016, 06:49 PM   #19
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What side passenger or drivers side if it's the passenger then you need a new exhaust gasket ir the drivers the a flange

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Drivers side


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Old 07-05-2016, 08:31 PM   #20
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What no it isn't. The driver's side is a ball/socket the pass is the one with the flange. I mean not sure why its even a question, just order a single gasket there will only be 1 place to put it.
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Old 07-06-2016, 05:26 PM   #21
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I fixed the leak.

Now I have coolant leaking inside the car -_-


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Old 07-06-2016, 07:53 PM   #22
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I fixed the leak.

Now I have coolant leaking inside the car -_-


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Well at least you know that can only be one thing. Dash pull time. Its really not hard to pull the dash TBTH. I'd rather do that than motor mounts or a transmission...

Actually... you live in Miami. Do you even need heat? Hell just bypass the heater core and call it good.
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Old 07-07-2016, 11:51 AM   #23
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Well at least you know that can only be one thing. Dash pull time. Its really not hard to pull the dash TBTH. I'd rather do that than motor mounts or a transmission...

Actually... you live in Miami. Do you even need heat? Hell just bypass the heater core and call it good.

That's exactly what I did, I just bypassed it. I've never even used the heater.

Now I'm going to be doing plugs , what do they have to be gapped at? And I think I'm also going to need a new coolant temperature sensor, I think this is causing me to get 10 smiles per gallon


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Old 07-07-2016, 01:57 PM   #24
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Gapped to .054, temp sensor is like 2 seconds, just make sure you use high temp RTV on it and let it cure overnight.
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Old 08-25-2016, 02:29 PM   #25
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So I've had my car for two months and the throw out bearing has been chattering for a few weeks now and it's the ford throw out bearing , I though those TOBs were the best ones?


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