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Old 07-02-2016, 02:05 PM   #1
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Exclamation Second intake manifold in 5,000 miles?!?!

Hey guys!

Just as some background info, I live in Hawaii. My car, however, has been in Colorado the past year and a half, being driven about once a week by my dad. I recently came back home to drive my car to the coast so i can ship it to my island.

The other day, while my car was running, I noticed some kind of liquid literally POURING from below my engine bay. concerned, i brought it into my local ford dealership to have it checked out. after preforming a COLD pressure test, they came back and told me it was one of two things: a cracked intake manifold, or a leaky manifold gasket. Of course we wont know for sure until they take my engine apart.

Right before I left for Hawaii, I replaced both my BLOCK and my INTAKE MANIFOLD using a Ford Performance PI Intake Manifold. It was professionally installed, but of course I am outside of my 12/12 warranty.

So, my questions are:

1) What the HELL causes an intake manifold to fail in LESS than 5,000 miles? this doesn't make sense to me.

2) What are your guys' opinion on the typhoon aluminum manifolds? It seems like a great idea, considering it SHOULDN'T crack on me again. I've done a little bit of research and there are definitely some people who think its a waste of money, and "only adds a heavy, heat absorbing metal piece on top of your engine."

3) if thats the case, what do i do? just put another plastic one in there so that it can crack again?

I'm really in a ****ty position, cause im supposed to drive to LA on the 10th of this month. My intake manifold warranty is through FordRacing, but they are closed until the 5th of July. In addition to that, AmericanMuscle is currently back ordered TWO WEEKS for the typhoon intake.

I'm really just not sure what im supposed to do, so any and all advice is greatly appreciated!

Typhoon Intake Manifold:
Professional Products Polished Typhoon Mustang Intake Manifold 54060 (99-04 GT) - Free Shipping
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Old 07-02-2016, 02:20 PM   #2
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im assuming no boost or nitrous, right?

stock engine for the most part other than bolt ons?

if its pouring liquid, it should only be coolant. which sounds like a possibly your heater hose came un attached when it was under pressure. i would look at the back of the engine, toward the passenger side.

underneath the intake manifold is a metal pipe that travels from the water pump to a heater hose that leads to the heater core behind the firewall. its possible that the pipe down there is leaking.

grab a flashlight and check the valley. it will probably be gross and mucky anyway since water gets trapped there and stays for a while. but see if it looks like its filling up with coolant.

take pictures of your heater hoses and the block valley if you can.
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Old 07-02-2016, 09:57 PM   #3
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The intake manifold gaskets can fail prematurely if the intake manifold bolts were not torqued down properly.
Hopefully, that is the case, or the pipe that Fenix referred to.
It's a shame that the intake will have to be removed to find the cause of the leak.
In any case, I'd stick with the plastic manifold. They are a pain I know, but an aluminum manifold still requires new gaskets every once in a while, and I have even cracked a few, in my day.
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Old 07-03-2016, 05:29 AM   #4
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forgot about torque.

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2002 GT 5sp. 16x,xxx miles
Steeda Exhaust, C&L plenum, BBK Throttle Body, Steeda Underdrive, Steeda short throw, unknown stage clutch. Rear main leak. Compressor seal leak. Steeda lower control arms. good tires.
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Old 07-03-2016, 05:31 AM   #5
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2002 GT 5sp. 16x,xxx miles
Steeda Exhaust, C&L plenum, BBK Throttle Body, Steeda Underdrive, Steeda short throw, unknown stage clutch. Rear main leak. Compressor seal leak. Steeda lower control arms. good tires.
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Old 07-03-2016, 06:13 AM   #6
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torque would be my 1st guess too, ya might just have gotten a bum one too.
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Old 07-03-2016, 08:23 AM   #7
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Buy a Ford racing one asap. Warranty the bad one after the fifth. Return the replacement wherever you got it from.

Or is that too sketchy?

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2002 GT 5sp. 16x,xxx miles
Steeda Exhaust, C&L plenum, BBK Throttle Body, Steeda Underdrive, Steeda short throw, unknown stage clutch. Rear main leak. Compressor seal leak. Steeda lower control arms. good tires.
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Old 07-03-2016, 11:28 AM   #8
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I checked both heater hoses and the top is good but the bottom has a minor leak (originally they dealership told me it was that but the amounts of coolant i was seeing didnt make sense for that) after they did a cold pressure test they realized their mistake.

I wasnt able to locate the other pipe though, and i had the beast up on a lift. They are closed today and tomorrow so im dead until tuesday.

The part I have on there now is aFord Performance Racing PI Intake manifold that i got from AM. I plan to replace it under warranty if it is the case. However Ford told me they had gaskets that fit it incase its not the gasket its self.

everything was installed professionally, so will there be any way for me to tell what caused it to fail? if it was a mechanic fault? If so, i could probably get my cost of labor waived which would be a huge relief!
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Old 07-03-2016, 11:45 AM   #9
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Hopefully it is a gasket, and they will be able to reuse the manifold.
I think that it would be difficult to find definitive proof of a mistake during the installation. It would probably be even more difficult to get the shop to admit to any mistake... Especially 12+ months after the work was completed.
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Old 07-03-2016, 03:14 PM   #10
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Don't buy the typhoon, casting flash issues and it holds heat like crazy. Its a low quality chinese copy of the PI intake but its metal so...

AM is not the only game in town btw...

https://lmr.com/item/M9424P46/999-04...res-Lrs-10153A

These guys are just as good and the longest it will take to get to you is 3 days. It'll go out Tuesday, get there by Friday, install in Saturday and g2g. This is, of course, after verifying your intake manifold is actually bad. They also do 6% discount for members of the Corral if you are a member over there PM a rep and get the code.

My guess as to why your manifold failed was a crappy install. Either overtorqued or not torqued in proper sequence OR not torqued in a 3 step sequence. You can't just torque them all to 22 ft lbs... you have to go gradually to work the manifold evenly down onto the gasket/heads. I usually do 10 then 16 then 22. Then a re-torque to 22ft lbs after a few heat cycles.

This really isn't a hard change to do btw, if you can do an oil change and follow directions you can do an intake manifold. Its literally just removing bolts and parts and nothing is real hard to get at. Its all right on the top of the motor.
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Old 07-05-2016, 11:10 AM   #11
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I replaced my original all plastic intake with the Ford Racing plastic intake with the alumium crossover pipe. I used the gaskets that came with the unit - big no no. Used the same type gaskets as original that has the hard plastic frame and locator pins with the rubber inserts (Felpro makes them). And also use the permatex gray rtv around each port (but don't over do it). Torque it down using the diagram fenix psted and et it sit for 24 hrs. That will prevent the gaskets from leaking.
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Old 07-05-2016, 02:42 PM   #12
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Yeah you always use the Fel Pros. Don't pay $$$$$ for them at a local store or wherever. Rockauto sells them for $25 and I think so does Amazon. If you have prime or free amazon shipping it might be cheaper there.

Again, torque value is 22ft lbs. 10ft lbs first, then 16ft lbs, then 22. Let sit for 24 hours, then start it up and let it get fully to temp and check for any leaks. I let mine idle a half hour. Then shut down, let cool off fully and do it again. Then let cool off fully and hit each bolt at 22ft lbs again to make sure nothing is loose. Do the torque check again after driving the car a few times.

I honestly didn't use any RTV, you don't need it, not with the Fel Pro gaskets. No leaks at all.

If this sounds complicated... its really not, just time consuming. Also probably the reason your other intake leaked. Dude probably torqued it straight to 22ft lbs once and fired it up and drove it back out front for you to pick up.
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Old 07-05-2016, 03:02 PM   #13
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I only used the rtv because a trusted mechanic told me it would ensure they didn't leak. But I did the same thing you recommended as well about torquing the bolts. Been enjoying drivng her again after sitting idle for 3 years.
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Old 07-05-2016, 03:05 PM   #14
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Not sure if there's a difference in the Ford Racing intake and the original, but engine seems more "torquey". Could just seem that way since its been so long since I drove her too. Lol.
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Old 07-05-2016, 04:21 PM   #15
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Alright guys, the dealership called me back, and I went down to verify for myself. My intake is bad. Its not cracked, however. On the aluminum cross over, the part where the crossover is seated to the manifold itself isn't flush. it has about an 1/8" gap between the manifold and the cross over. The tech assures me that under pressure, and with a cold, un-expanded engine, it would produce enough of a leak to by my culprit.

I have called ford performance Racing and they basically told me to screw off and that the part has no warranty of ANY kind. even though this seems like a manufacturer defect since im not the one who assembled the crossover. they told me that the only person who would even be capable was out of the office for the day and that he would "call me back on his convenience" (cause thats the proper way to handle this.) called Ford directly, and they sent me back to the people who blew me off. Fantastic, I love playing ring-around-the-rosey.

when I first had it installed, I tried doing it myself, but after I somehow ended up with the wrong part, it blew out my engine. which is why i had them do it while they did my engine block. I know I am capable of doing this repair. my only concerns are time, and the torque sequence. at this point i have 5 days before I am scheduled to leave the state. as I currently stand, tomorrow i will talk to someone IF they will warranty me (4 days). then I need the part shipped to me (3, maybe 2 days left) and then I need to install it (it would probably take me 1-2 days) so if everything goes perfectly, I MIGHT make my deadline. but lets face it, life never goes as planned. (point and case, the fact that we are even having this conversation to begin with.)

Not really sure what to do. I am going to go ahead and purchase a replacement from AM, and have it shipped. if in the case I dont need it, I can have my parents send it back for me.
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Old 07-05-2016, 07:00 PM   #16
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This is a few hour job, not 1-2 days. Even going slow. Is there anyone local to you who can do basic mechanical work?
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Old 07-05-2016, 07:21 PM   #17
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It's not hard just follow the torque sequence like Scotty said take a picture so you know where the hoses go for the iac intake and pcv also you'll have to remove your alternator to remove the intake took me 2 hours

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Old 07-05-2016, 08:43 PM   #18
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Removing an alternator on a 2V is literally a 5 minute job. Disconnect the wires, undo the bolts that are right in front of your face, it falls out. Then drain the coolant from the radiator. Also remove COPs for easy access. Good time to do the spark plugs too while you are at it, takes like an extra 15 minutes at this point.

The intake is just undo the vac hoses and throttle springs, remove air intake, unbolt plenum/tb from intake, unhook the rear coolant hoses from the plastic then unbolt the intake from the heads.

Installation is just clean off the ports on the heads, put down gaskets with tabs lined up, plop intake down on top. Torque bolts in pattern in picture in a 3 step sequence as described and then install everything in reverse order. Install the temp sender in the metal crossover AFTER you have filled the coolant back into the motor, its the highest point in the coolant system and this allows all the air to escape as you are filling it back up.

Make sure everything is hooked back up and heat cycle it as already described.

Like I said, a few hours. Order the intake, get it by Friday night, do it Friday night or Saturday morning and done. This is being way way way overthought. Not worth fighting with Ford over a $260 part and likely weeks of waiting.
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Old 07-05-2016, 10:50 PM   #19
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Second intake manifold in 5,000 miles?!?!

Scotty, you're a good guy.


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Old 07-06-2016, 11:43 AM   #20
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Talked to Ford again today, no fighting. They are emailing me a shipping label for me to send them the broken one. They will inspect it and if they deem it, will reimburse me my money.

As for the install... I've taken this engine apart 5 times, so I know the process and how easy it can be. The cheap college kid in me wants to just go ahead and do it. But then the other part of me is more like "**** it, im sick of dealing with this."
the guy rough estimated about $500 in install and that should include my coolant flush. The cheap part is screaming about that, but at the same time, just having the dealership assurance is kind of nice.. If it were to happen again, my labor would be covered.

I have until tomorrow when my part gets here to decide, but im not sure which one im going to go with at this point..
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Old 07-06-2016, 11:45 AM   #21
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I'd DIY, **** $500 for a 1-2 hour job for a Ford tech? Wow...
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Old 07-06-2016, 12:22 PM   #22
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Damn I'm in the wrong line of work, $500! Geez!
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Old 07-06-2016, 12:46 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69ponyxprs View Post
Damn I'm in the wrong line of work, $500! Geez!
Yep. All you need to do is build a multi-million dollar auto dealership, and then you can make the big bucks!
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Old 07-06-2016, 01:36 PM   #24
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yeah right! lol! No hanks. I'll just stick to working on my own stuff. =)
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Old 07-06-2016, 08:39 PM   #25
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I'd DIY, **** $500 for a 1-2 hour job for a Ford tech? Wow...
Well, it is just a rough estimate, after all... Imagine how happy you would feel when you go to pick up the car, and the service manager tells you that the bill is only $488.
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Old 07-06-2016, 09:12 PM   #26
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Well, it is just a rough estimate, after all... Imagine how happy you would feel when you go to pick up the car, and the service manager tells you that the bill is only $488.
Lmao
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Old 07-07-2016, 07:14 AM   #27
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Lol
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