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Old 09-14-2016, 10:51 AM   #71
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Paid a shop to find out which plug was bad and I replaced that bad plug with a Motorcraft one and the first day it was running amazing but now it seems like the car has lost its power and it's starting to miss at idle and it's also starting to make a tapping noise till the car is warmed up. Check gas cap light is still on but I don't have a gas smell anymore. The car has also recently been cranking up very slow and sometimes the idle is either low or high when I put the car in neutral when coming to a stop

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Old 09-14-2016, 01:01 PM   #72
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Multiple issues my car is having

Is your battery old? It should read about 12.6v or above just sitting there with the car off. It should be around 13.8v or above with the car running. A low battery is hard on the alternator, so you don't want to let it run around like that if it is below the voltage I mentioned. Mine cranked really slow when my battery was dying. Isn't checking the gas cap just one of the things to check with that fault code? Isn't it an evap code, or did that go away completely?

Also, if it's missing, it can make for some thumpy idle. I would think if it's the right one missing, it could be kinda noisy. It has to miss so many times before it will throw a CEL.
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Old 09-14-2016, 04:14 PM   #73
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Is your battery old? It should read about 12.6v or above just sitting there with the car off. It should be around 13.8v or above with the car running. A low battery is hard on the alternator, so you don't want to let it run around like that if it is below the voltage I mentioned. Mine cranked really slow when my battery was dying. Isn't checking the gas cap just one of the things to check with that fault code? Isn't it an evap code, or did that go away completely?

Also, if it's missing, it can make for some thumpy idle. I would think if it's the right one missing, it could be kinda noisy. It has to miss so many times before it will throw a CEL.
Battery was replaced back in February. The only codes that popped up this time were the normal catalytic converter ones.

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Old 09-14-2016, 06:23 PM   #74
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Battery was replaced back in February. The only codes that popped up this time were the normal catalytic converter ones.

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Doesn't mean the battery's bad have the alternator and battery tested just to be sure

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Old 09-14-2016, 08:12 PM   #75
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Doesn't mean the battery's bad have the alternator and battery tested just to be sure

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I havent
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Old 09-14-2016, 08:14 PM   #76
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I havent


Since your battery is new, it should still be okay, but it does t hurt to get the alternator checked they make our cars act funny too when they are failing.
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Old 09-14-2016, 08:24 PM   #77
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Paid a shop to find out which plug was bad and I replaced that bad plug with a Motorcraft one and the first day it was running amazing but now it seems like the car has lost its power and it's starting to miss at idle and it's also starting to make a tapping noise till the car is warmed up. Check gas cap light is still on but I don't have a gas smell anymore. The car has also recently been cranking up very slow and sometimes the idle is either low or high when I put the car in neutral when coming to a stop

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You say that you took it to the shop and they diagnosed the misfire as a bad spark plug?
And you then replaced the bad spark plug yourself? You didn't replace all 8 of them?
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Old 09-15-2016, 07:52 PM   #78
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You say that you took it to the shop and they diagnosed the misfire as a bad spark plug?
And you then replaced the bad spark plug yourself? You didn't replace all 8 of them?
Bad coil on plug
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Old 09-15-2016, 08:37 PM   #79
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So how come you just don't take the car into a mechanic and let him fix it? Every car has troubles if it's not taken care of (by prev owner) or reaches a certain age. Around 80k miles is nothing for these engines unless it wasn't taken care of. I think you should see what's wrong with it before you decide to sell it.
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Old 09-15-2016, 09:52 PM   #80
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So how come you just don't take the car into a mechanic and let him fix it? Every car has troubles if it's not taken care of (by prev owner) or reaches a certain age. Around 80k miles is nothing for these engines unless it wasn't taken care of. I think you should see what's wrong with it before you decide to sell it.
I've taken it to 3 so far and I've told them to look into it and none of them have said to do anything I haven't already done

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Old 09-15-2016, 10:42 PM   #81
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I think that you should start systematically eliminating possible causes of the problems that your car is experiencing.
Start by checking the codes again to verify that the evap code has not returned.
Test charging system.
Perform a fuel pressure test.

All of that can be done for free, and should be the first steps when diagnosing a stubborn problem.
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Old 09-18-2016, 11:12 AM   #82
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I think that you should start systematically eliminating possible causes of the problems that your car is experiencing.
Start by checking the codes again to verify that the evap code has not returned.
Test charging system.
Perform a fuel pressure test.

All of that can be done for free, and should be the first steps when diagnosing a stubborn problem.
I only have catalytic converter code(since I have an o/r x) where should I go to get these tests for free?

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Old 09-18-2016, 11:48 AM   #83
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I recommended checking the codes again, since your Check Engine Light stays lit up all of the time. Another code could be triggered and you won't know about it unless you scan for them again.

Most of the auto parts stores will test your charging system for free.
Also, most auto parts stores have "loaner" tools available. You leave a deposit, usually equal to the purchase price of the tool, and you can then use the tool and return it for a full refund once you are finished with it. They typically have fuel pressure test gauges available that you can use to perform the very simple fuel pressure test, and determine the condition of your fuel system.
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Old 09-18-2016, 01:13 PM   #84
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I recommended checking the codes again, since your Check Engine Light stays lit up all of the time. Another code could be triggered and you won't know about it unless you scan for them again.

Most of the auto parts stores will test your charging system for free.
Also, most auto parts stores have "loaner" tools available. You leave a deposit, usually equal to the purchase price of the tool, and you can then use the tool and return it for a full refund once you are finished with it. They typically have fuel pressure test gauges available that you can use to perform the very simple fuel pressure test, and determine the condition of your fuel system.
I cleared the codes for the cats so I don't have a cel at the moment. Ahhh ok

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Old 10-06-2016, 05:50 PM   #85
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I replaced the orings on the injectors and it seemed to make the miss at idle go away for a bit but now the car is starting to miss again just nowhere near as much. I put some seafoam into the gas tank as well just as a why tf not thing. Any ideas on where to check now for idle issues?

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Old 10-06-2016, 06:57 PM   #86
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The idle air control valve. But, it won't be like a miss. It will idle crappy, like surge up and die down. It could stall coming up to a light. It can stick in a higher idle etc. Any of those things sound like what you're getting? They usually had to be dead af before they'll throw a CEL lol.
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Old 10-06-2016, 07:51 PM   #87
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The idle air control valve. But, it won't be like a miss. It will idle crappy, like surge up and die down. It could stall coming up to a light. It can stick in a higher idle etc. Any of those things sound like what you're getting? They usually had to be dead af before they'll throw a CEL lol.
My car won't stall but there has been times where I will throw it in neutral and it will be above 1k rpms and sometimes it stays and then sometimes it immediately drops down to the 750rpms that it idles at

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Old 10-06-2016, 08:22 PM   #88
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It's pretty normal to see the idle hang from time to time. Seems like that is something common to the Mach's. But, it should be pretty smooth idle through all that. If it's having trouble idling or goes through chunky idle periods where it sounds like it doesn't know where to be happy, that could certainly be a bad IAC. Even though Ford says they are not serviceable, you can clean them up some, as long as it's just carbon that is keeping the plunger jobby from moving. I think I used throttle body cleaner on mine. You should do an idle re-learn after cleaning it.
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Old 10-07-2016, 05:26 PM   #89
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It's pretty normal to see the idle hang from time to time. Seems like that is something common to the Mach's. But, it should be pretty smooth idle through all that. If it's having trouble idling or goes through chunky idle periods where it sounds like it doesn't know where to be happy, that could certainly be a bad IAC. Even though Ford says they are not serviceable, you can clean them up some, as long as it's just carbon that is keeping the plunger jobby from moving. I think I used throttle body cleaner on mine. You should do an idle re-learn after cleaning it.
It isn't really having issues figuring out where to idle at its just it misses sometimes

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Old 10-20-2016, 12:35 PM   #90
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It's pretty normal to see the idle hang from time to time. Seems like that is something common to the Mach's. But, it should be pretty smooth idle through all that. If it's having trouble idling or goes through chunky idle periods where it sounds like it doesn't know where to be happy, that could certainly be a bad IAC. Even though Ford says they are not serviceable, you can clean them up some, as long as it's just carbon that is keeping the plunger jobby from moving. I think I used throttle body cleaner on mine. You should do an idle re-learn after cleaning it.
How would you do an idle relearn?

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Old 10-20-2016, 05:04 PM   #91
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I just cleaned it out with carb cleaner and now it's making a humming noise and my car is throwing an evap leak code

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Old 10-20-2016, 07:53 PM   #92
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How would you do an idle relearn?

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Disconnect the negative battery cable for about 20 minutes. That will clear the information in the computer.
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Old 10-20-2016, 07:58 PM   #93
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I just cleaned it out with carb cleaner and now it's making a humming noise and my car is throwing an evap leak code

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The evap code still needs to be addressed.
And it sounds like the IAC is worn out and needs to be replaced. I recommend purchasing one manufactured by either Motorcraft or Hitachi.
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Old 10-20-2016, 08:34 PM   #94
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The evap code still needs to be addressed.
And it sounds like the IAC is worn out and needs to be replaced. I recommend purchasing one manufactured by either Motorcraft or Hitachi.
I really don't wanna pay a shop to find out what $2 hose is bad. I took the car out for a drive and it drove normally, would the iac have any affect on the drive ability?

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Old 10-20-2016, 08:44 PM   #95
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The Idle Air Control valve will only affect the idle.
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Old 10-21-2016, 05:29 AM   #96
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The Idle Air Control valve will only affect the idle.
Ok so is it okay to drive around with it?

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Old 10-21-2016, 08:24 AM   #97
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Also what is the line right under the iac mine is dry rotted and needs replacement

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Old 10-21-2016, 12:25 PM   #98
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Ok so is it okay to drive around with it?

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Yes.
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Old 10-21-2016, 12:27 PM   #99
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Also what is the line right under the iac mine is dry rotted and needs replacement

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I'm not sure what you are referring to. Can you post a picture?
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Old 10-21-2016, 02:50 PM   #100
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That line right under the iac unit
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Old 10-21-2016, 05:00 PM   #101
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I'm not 100% sure, but that looks like the air bypass hose for the IAC.
Does the other end connect to the air intake somewhere?
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Old 10-21-2016, 06:44 PM   #102
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I'm not 100% sure, but that looks like the air bypass hose for the IAC.
Does the other end connect to the air intake somewhere?
Nope it goes into the firewall
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Old 10-21-2016, 07:08 PM   #103
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Yeah, your IAC valve is completely different than my Bullitt.
It is probably a vacuum line for the HVAC controls. Maybe, ab mach will chime in... He will likely know for sure since he has a Mach.
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