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Old 09-01-2016, 08:57 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheJigShow View Post
Hahaha...funny.

UPDATE: My friend took a like and said it's looking like a crank sensor starting to fail. I'm willing to try that, considering it's less than $30 from the store lol. Hopefully this is the fix.


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That could be it.

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Old 09-01-2016, 04:55 PM   #37
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That could be it.

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Replaced the crank sensor and threw the stock air intake tube back on. Oh and cleaned the IAC. Still no different. IAC was not rattling even after I cleaned what I could


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Old 09-01-2016, 07:27 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by TheJigShow View Post
Replaced the crank sensor and threw the stock air intake tube back on. Oh and cleaned the IAC. Still no different. IAC was not rattling even after I cleaned what I could


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I am going to let a friend of mine read what has been discussed so far. He is an ASE cert mechanic. He is a a Mopar guy, but may have a suggestion that has been missed.

It is possible that the IAC needs to be replaced. From my understanding, this is another part that should be a Ford part.

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Old 09-01-2016, 10:28 PM   #39
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Just got to this thread and seems as though 9 out of 10 times there's a misfire, it is a coil pack... When you changed your intake manifold did you torque them in the proper sequence and to spec? As stated before you could always check your intake for leaks by using a wd spray, but my money's on one of the 6 remaining stock coil packs, especially with 175 K on them

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Old 09-02-2016, 06:06 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by Revvv View Post
I am going to let a friend of mine read what has been discussed so far. He is an ASE cert mechanic. He is a a Mopar guy, but may have a suggestion that has been missed.

It is possible that the IAC needs to be replaced. From my understanding, this is another part that should be a Ford part.

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That would be great! Definitely another opinion from someone qualified like that is always welcomed. As far as the IAC is concerned, I think replacing it first would be best. LMR has one for sale for $70. It doesn't say if it's a Ford part or not, but in my past experiences the replacement parts I buy from them have all been good, so I think that should work.

I'm honestly wondering if I should even sell this car now. It has 175K miles so it's not going to yield a whole lot, and I've put plenty of time and money into fixing things on it that it might not be worth selling. Idk just throwing that out there.


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Old 09-02-2016, 06:09 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by fomoco4life View Post
Just got to this thread and seems as though 9 out of 10 times there's a misfire, it is a coil pack... When you changed your intake manifold did you torque them in the proper sequence and to spec? As stated before you could always check your intake for leaks by using a wd spray, but my money's on one of the 6 remaining stock coil packs, especially with 175 K on them

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Yeah, I had a guide with me to ensure I torqued all the bolts to correct spec in the correct order. I also used spray to check for vacuum leaks already and it didn't reveal any leaks. If the IAC doesn't solve it, I'm willing to go replace the 6 coil packs; perhaps one at a time to see if I fix any culprits.


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Old 09-02-2016, 08:06 AM   #42
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That would be great! Definitely another opinion from someone qualified like that is always welcomed. As far as the IAC is concerned, I think replacing it first would be best. LMR has one for sale for $70. It doesn't say if it's a Ford part or not, but in my past experiences the replacement parts I buy from them have all been good, so I think that should work.

I'm honestly wondering if I should even sell this car now. It has 175K miles so it's not going to yield a whole lot, and I've put plenty of time and money into fixing things on it that it might not be worth selling. Idk just throwing that out there.


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Old 09-02-2016, 08:12 AM   #43
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I just don't understand how it can be the coil packs without a code?

I am used to my truck. It would throw a code for anything. The truck would tell me what headlight or tail light was blown. I would get a code for the exact cylinder that decided to misfire. My Ram was it's own diagnostic tool. Then again, I knew the truck very well.

I have stopped whining about the blown engine and accepted that the Dodge is dead. A new engine is not in my near future purchases.

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Old 09-02-2016, 08:21 AM   #44
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I just don't understand how it can be the coil packs without a code?

I am used to my truck. It would throw a code for anything. The truck would tell me what headlight or tail light was blown. I would get a code for the exact cylinder that decided to misfire. My Ram was it's own diagnostic tool. Then again, I knew the truck very well.

I have stopped whining about the blown engine and accepted that the Dodge is dead. A new engine is not in my near future purchases.

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I never got a code when mine went out, since it's an intermittent misfire, the computer doesn't always catch it.

OP should just rebuild them for a couple bucks, @ 175k springs and boots are surely worn.

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Old 09-02-2016, 08:39 AM   #45
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I never got a code when mine went out, since it's an intermittent misfire, the computer doesn't always catch it.

OP should just rebuild them for a couple bucks, @ 175k springs and boots are surely worn.

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I want to say that was suggested.I think the rebuild kits are about $30.

I am beginning to take this car personally. I want to see it run and perform like it is supposed to.

I wish I could get my hands on the car. It is a puzzle.

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Old 09-02-2016, 08:45 AM   #46
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Either coil packs, or the spark plugs could be drowned in fuel and not firing correctly
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Old 09-02-2016, 08:51 AM   #47
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Jig, can you pull the plugs right after the car shuts itself off and inspect them? You very well may find a plug or two soaked in fuel.

I would like an up close pic of the ceramic and electrodes if you pull them. Spark plugs can tell a story and reveal a lot more than guessing can. I do not believe in guessing and gambling when it comes to throwing money at an engine.

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Old 09-02-2016, 09:43 AM   #48
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Do a compression test. There might be a weak cylinder.

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Old 09-02-2016, 09:48 AM   #49
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Also, if you suspect the 6 "high mileage" coils might be a problem, you can purchase one new one, and start swapping it out with the old coils, and see if you can find a bad one.

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Old 09-02-2016, 10:07 AM   #50
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If it's a weak cool pack, can't you just unplug each one to see if it affects the idle to determine if it's the coil pack
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Old 09-02-2016, 10:08 AM   #51
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Do a compression test. There might be a weak cylinder.

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Wouldn't there be a very low amount of compression for the engine to run and just shut down. I would imagine that a significant amount of oil would be burned as well.

I could be wrong. I am asking a question and brainstorming more than making a statement.

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Old 09-02-2016, 10:10 AM   #52
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If it's a weak cool pack, can't you just unplug each one to see if it affects the idle to determine if it's the coil pack
Not always. A weak or intermittent spark is better than no spark.

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Old 09-02-2016, 10:22 AM   #53
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Originally Posted by Revvv View Post
Jig, can you pull the plugs right after the car shuts itself off and inspect them? You very well may find a plug or two soaked in fuel.

I would like an up close pic of the ceramic and electrodes if you pull them. Spark plugs can tell a story and reveal a lot more than guessing can. I do not believe in guessing and gambling when it comes to throwing money at an engine.

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Well I'm getting a set of new coils either today or tomorrow for a very good price from someone I know. They're new & OEM too. When I replace them, I'll pull plugs and send a couple pics while inspecting them. Also, idk if I my wording was off before, but the car never actually shuts itself off on its own.


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Old 09-02-2016, 10:25 AM   #54
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I want to say that was suggested.I think the rebuild kits are about $30.

I am beginning to take this car personally. I want to see it run and perform like it is supposed to.

I wish I could get my hands on the car. It is a puzzle.

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Hey if you're near South Jersey at all, feel free to come check it out lol 👍🏼


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Old 09-02-2016, 10:25 AM   #55
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Wouldn't there be a very low amount of compression for the engine to run and just shut down. I would imagine that a significant amount of oil would be burned as well.

I could be wrong. I am asking a question and brainstorming more than making a statement.

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I'm not sure that I understand your question, but if there is significantly lower compression in a cylinder, it will cause a misfire. It would typically miss throughout the entire RPM range though.
I'm leaning more towards a failed COP as the cause of the problem though.
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Old 09-02-2016, 10:27 AM   #56
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Once you look at the plugs and change the COPs, if nothing changes, take a video of the car idling. Try not to touch the throttle.

With that info provided I am leaning more towards a spark or bad IAC issue.

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Old 09-02-2016, 10:27 AM   #57
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I'm not sure that I understand your question, but if there is significantly lower compression in a cylinder, it will cause a misfire. It would typically miss throughput the entire RPM range though.

I'm leaning more towards a failed COP as the cause of the problem though.

This misfire is really intermittent, and it depends when it does it. Sometimes it's at low revs, sometimes it's at high revs. Just depends when, but it's often enough to be unable to ignore.


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Old 09-02-2016, 10:30 AM   #58
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If it's a weak cool pack, can't you just unplug each one to see if it affects the idle to determine if it's the coil pack
Yes. If a coil has failed completely, that would be a way to diagnose it. It seems as though Jig's engine runs fine when idling, and only misfires under a load, so disconnecting the coils likely won't reveal a failed one.
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Old 09-02-2016, 10:31 AM   #59
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This misfire is really intermittent, and it depends when it does it. Sometimes it's at low revs, sometimes it's at high revs. Just depends when, but it's often enough to be unable to ignore.


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More info is a good thing. Idle Air Controller, EGR, or spark is where my mind is now.

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Old 09-02-2016, 10:32 AM   #60
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More info is a good thing. Idle Air Controller, EGR, or spark is where my mind is now.

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Absolutely. Also, I replaced the EGR Valve last year with a Motorcraft one so that shouldn't be it. I'm leaning towards spark or IAC too


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Old 09-02-2016, 10:40 AM   #61
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If the car idles normally, the Idle Air Control valve is definitely NOT the cause of the misfire.
As a matter of fact, I don't see how it would be possible for a IAC to even cause a misfire!
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Old 09-02-2016, 05:03 PM   #62
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I'm not sure the car is idling normally.

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Old 09-02-2016, 05:25 PM   #63
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I'm confused now. You two have the same avatars (kinda).

Who's car are we talking about here?
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Old 09-02-2016, 05:29 PM   #64
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I'm confused now. You two have the same avatars (kinda).

Who's car are we talking about here?
Jig's background is black. Mine is blank. Lol

I think my engine is running fine. So we are discussing Jig.

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Old 09-02-2016, 05:45 PM   #65
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I think that I have it straight now.

Revvv = Car runs like a top!
Jig = Car ready for the crusher!
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Old 09-02-2016, 05:50 PM   #66
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I think that I have it straight now.

Revvv = Car runs like a top!
Jig = Car ready for the crusher!
No, I'm trying to buy it from him for $10. Lol

$1 if it's broken.

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Old 09-04-2016, 06:01 PM   #67
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Sry if I missed something I kinda scrolled through the last few messages but .. I recently spent a whole year cursing my gt for the same exact symptoms
I replaced and cleaned everything you could think of.. All that you have, and more.. No code either
Exact symptoms you described.
Then one day I noticed autoZone actually has a set of 8 cop's that are duralast brand with lifetime warranties for $200 bucks. They also have accel but they're notorious for being crap and are $300 at the zone .
So I gave in and bought the damn things .. I've experienced a dead cop before in this motor and always had a code so I thought I was just replacing them to rule them out as an option .. Poof
Car runs better then the day I bought it
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Old 09-05-2016, 06:36 PM   #68
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No, I'm trying to buy it from him for $10. Lol

$1 if it's broken.

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Originally Posted by Chrishart749 View Post
Sry if I missed something I kinda scrolled through the last few messages but .. I recently spent a whole year cursing my gt for the same exact symptoms
I replaced and cleaned everything you could think of.. All that you have, and more.. No code either
Exact symptoms you described.
Then one day I noticed autoZone actually has a set of 8 cop's that are duralast brand with lifetime warranties for $200 bucks. They also have accel but they're notorious for being crap and are $300 at the zone .
So I gave in and bought the damn things .. I've experienced a dead cop before in this motor and always had a code so I thought I was just replacing them to rule them out as an option .. Poof
Car runs better then the day I bought it
Sorry for the delays in responding, but I finally got a chance to throw the new coils on the car. And guess what? NO. MORE. MISFIRING!!! I'm pretty happy and relieved. The coils was the answer. I've driven the car about 20-25 miles so far and no issues, whereas before it would've been bucking all over the place. However, the fire-up is still weak, so maybe replacing the IAC Valve wouldn't be a bad idea after all. I've included a video with this post to show you what I mean; it's not the worst, but it's not the usual way Mod motors fire up.
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Old 09-05-2016, 06:42 PM   #69
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Ok it's not letting me post the video right now, but I'll try again later. But once it fires up, it idles ok. Nothing to get too upset over.


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