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Old 08-20-2016, 10:41 PM   #1
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2003 GT Misfiring Fun

I've been having this issue with this car for a while now. It'll fire up, but weakly, idle fine, and under light load it drives fine. Under any significant load though it will misfire and buck like crazy. I've replaced two coil packs before, and when hooked up to a modus scanner, all 8 cylinder's ignition readings were registering 100%. I've replaced all 8 injectors today and it made no difference whatsoever. Also, I've replaced the fuel filter, cleaned my mass air, throttle body, filter, and made sure all vacuum lines were plugged and not leaking.

Short of replacing the fuel pump (which I'll do next), what could it be? I'm running out of theories and if it's not the fuel pump, I'm not sure what I could do.


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Old 08-20-2016, 11:07 PM   #2
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Under what condition is the engine misfiring? Is it a stumble on acceleration, or a defined skip across one or multiple cylinders? You said it stumbles under a load, but is that at a normal,rate of acceleration or at wide open throttle? Does wide open throttle clear anything up? Does the skip noticeable at idle?

What, if any codes are present?

Before changing the fuel pump, check the fuel pressure.

Also check each fuel injector. If one is misfiring then you will have a cylinder without fuel. That will certainly cause a misfire.

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Old 08-21-2016, 01:32 PM   #3
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Since you hooked up a modus. With it running kill each cylinder and see which one doesn't change how the vehicle runs


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Old 08-21-2016, 03:59 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Bgrimes1 View Post
Since you hooked up a modus. With it running kill each cylinder and see which one doesn't change how the vehicle runs


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Good advice.

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Old 08-21-2016, 08:49 PM   #5
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Sounds like exactly the same symptoms I had when I had a bad coil pack. Would idle great and run fine when cold but under load when hot it would misfire and shake badly.
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Old 08-22-2016, 11:05 AM   #6
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Under what condition is the engine misfiring? Is it a stumble on acceleration, or a defined skip across one or multiple cylinders? You said it stumbles under a load, but is that at a normal,rate of acceleration or at wide open throttle? Does wide open throttle clear anything up? Does the skip noticeable at idle?

What, if any codes are present?

Before changing the fuel pump, check the fuel pressure.

Also check each fuel injector. If one is misfiring then you will have a cylinder without fuel. That will certainly cause a misfire.

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Unfortunately no codes are present (would really make this easier). It stumbles when under anything over 30% throttle application, including wide-open throttle. However, there's no stumble at idle (idles perfectly fine). Weirdly the scanner didn't measure or read anything about fuel...which is weird.


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Old 08-22-2016, 11:07 AM   #7
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Sounds like exactly the same symptoms I had when I had a bad coil pack. Would idle great and run fine when cold but under load when hot it would misfire and shake badly.

According to the scanner the ignition readouts were ok. I will say I've replaced 2 so far while I've owned the car though.


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Old 08-22-2016, 05:17 PM   #8
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What about injector duty cycles?


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Old 08-23-2016, 09:45 AM   #9
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I had the same symptoms with my 2000 gt about three weeks after I replaced the intake manifold. It turned out I had a vacuum leak between the upper and lower intake. Check the #8 spark plug for fowling, and/or spray the intake with a cleaner or starting fluid( be careful-cold motor only CAREFUL). It only took a few seconds of spraying to confirm. there may be safer ways someone else on hee knows... good luck
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Old 08-23-2016, 10:56 AM   #10
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I had the same symptoms with my 2000 gt about three weeks after I replaced the intake manifold. It turned out I had a vacuum leak between the upper and lower intake. Check the #8 spark plug for fowling, and/or spray the intake with a cleaner or starting fluid( be careful-cold motor only CAREFUL). It only took a few seconds of spraying to confirm. there may be safer ways someone else on hee knows... good luck

I did replace the intake manifold last summer. Although it always started weak, I think it's worth checking. Thanks for the idea!


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Old 08-23-2016, 11:12 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chasman52 View Post
I had the same symptoms with my 2000 gt about three weeks after I replaced the intake manifold. It turned out I had a vacuum leak between the upper and lower intake. Check the #8 spark plug for fowling, and/or spray the intake with a cleaner or starting fluid( be careful-cold motor only CAREFUL). It only took a few seconds of spraying to confirm. there may be safer ways someone else on hee knows... good luck

I did replace the intake manifold last summer. Although it always started weak, I think it's worth checking. Thanks for the idea!


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Old 08-23-2016, 11:25 AM   #12
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Do a fuel pressure test, as was suggested earlier.
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Old 08-23-2016, 01:35 PM   #13
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When I put my solus edge on my gt I can tell fuel pressure. I'm certain your modus will do the same


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Old 08-24-2016, 09:15 AM   #14
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Welp I have a fuel pump assembly on its way from LMR.com so this should be the fix. I will update when it arrives and I install it.


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Old 08-29-2016, 09:22 AM   #15
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UPDATE: I replaced the fuel pump assembly over the weekend. The car does run a little better, but overall it's still doing the same thing. I have no clue what else I can do for this thing to figure it out. 😞


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Old 08-29-2016, 12:14 PM   #16
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Filter, injectors, fuel rail????

Do you know what the PSI is at each injector? Are the pulse rates correct?

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Old 08-29-2016, 02:48 PM   #17
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Filter, injectors, fuel rail????

Do you know what the PSI is at each injector? Are the pulse rates correct?

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I've replaced the fuel filter and all 8 injectors. In terms of fuel, everything is reading correctly on the scanner. Still the issue persists. Also I've re-torqued the intake manifold bolts and sprayed carb cleaner to check for vacuum leaks. Still the same issue.


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Old 08-29-2016, 05:17 PM   #18
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I've replaced the fuel filter and all 8 injectors. In terms of fuel, everything is reading correctly on the scanner. Still the issue persists. Also I've re-torqued the intake manifold bolts and sprayed carb cleaner to check for vacuum leaks. Still the same issue.


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...and you have cleaned the MAF and IAC. Spark plugs are likely new.

I am almost at a loss for ideas now. Are you running factory coil packs? Have you checked for any and all vacuum leaks? Is the EGR valve good? Is there any damage on the air inlet after the MAF that could cause the car to suck in too much air and run lean?

Have you tried a different key in case it is a security problem? You aren't getting any codes, so everything emissions related should be fine. However, a glitch in the computer or tuning could cause a problem.

Does the car have a tune? If so, can you remove the tune and try the factory settings?

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Old 08-29-2016, 05:40 PM   #19
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...and you have cleaned the MAF and IAC. Spark plugs are likely new.

I am almost at a loss for ideas now. Are you running factory coil packs? Have you checked for any and all vacuum leaks? Is the EGR valve good? Is there any damage on the air inlet after the MAF that could cause the car to suck in too much air and run lean?

Have you tried a different key in case it is a security problem? You aren't getting any codes, so everything emissions related should be fine. However, a glitch in the computer or tuning could cause a problem.

Does the car have a tune? If so, can you remove the tune and try the factory settings?

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Yeah, the MAF, throttle body, plenum, etc. were cleaned. I never touched or replaced the IAC, but it's not throwing a code either. Maybe it could be that?

The spark plugs are a year old, if that. I replaced them with motorcraft OEM ones, and the gaps on each are correct. Two coil packs are new (Motorcraft OEM ones), while the other 6 are the originals (175K miles). It could be them, but again, no code, so I don't wanna just throw a lot of money on new coils right away and end up being wrong and wasting money.

I checked for any and all vacuum leaks, and came up with none. I've replaced the EGR valve with a motorcraft one last year, around the same time as the spark plugs. I can check the air tube inlet again, but last time I looked it was damage free.

Finally, I've used both my keys and no difference. As far as a tune, I have none; I'm on the factory setup. I left my car at my buddy's shop to see if he can find anything, but so far here it seems I should try new coil packs, IAC, and I can put the stock air tube back on.


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Old 08-29-2016, 05:48 PM   #20
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Put the stock air box back on and see if anything changes.

If things remain the same clean the IAC. If you take it off and shake it and nothing rattles, the part needs to be cleaned.

If nothing changes with that purchase rebuild kits for the coil packs ($30).

The only way the plugs would be bad is if the car has a bad air/fuel ratio and is running lean. I can't imagine it running rich. However, pulling and inspecting the plugs could be a good idea. The color and condition of the plugs may tell the story as to why the engine is not running.

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Old 08-29-2016, 05:48 PM   #21
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I'm betting it's your iac

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Old 08-29-2016, 06:10 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Revvv View Post
...and you have cleaned the MAF and IAC. Spark plugs are likely new.

I am almost at a loss for ideas now. Are you running factory coil packs? Have you checked for any and all vacuum leaks? Is the EGR valve good? Is there any damage on the air inlet after the MAF that could cause the car to suck in too much air and run lean?

Have you tried a different key in case it is a security problem? You aren't getting any codes, so everything emissions related should be fine. However, a glitch in the computer or tuning could cause a problem.

Does the car have a tune? If so, can you remove the tune and try the factory settings?

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

Yeah, the MAF, throttle body, plenum, etc. were cleaned. I never touched or replaced the IAC, but it's not throwing a code either. Maybe it could be that?

The spark plugs are a year old, if that. I replaced them with motorcraft OEM ones, and the gaps on each are correct. Two coil packs are new (Motorcraft OEM ones), while the other 6 are the originals (175K miles). It could be them, but again, no code, so I don't wanna just throw a lot of money on new coils right away and end up being wrong and wasting money.

I checked for any and all vacuum leaks, and came up with none. I've replaced the EGR valve with a motorcraft one last year, around the same time as the spark plugs. I can check the air tube inlet again, but last time I looked it was damage free.

Finally, I've used both my keys and no difference. As far as a tune, I have none; I'm on the factory setup. I left my car at my buddy's shop to see if he can find anything, but so far here it seems I should try new coil packs, IAC, and I can put the stock air tube back on.


"Jig"
2014 Ford Focus ST (ST3, Tuxedo Black Metallic)
1997 Ford Mustang GT (Rio Red)
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Old 08-30-2016, 06:14 AM   #23
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I'm betting it's your iac

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Even if it doesn't throw a code? If so, I'm willing to clean/replace it the first chance I can get my hands on the car again.


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Old 08-30-2016, 06:19 AM   #24
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Put the stock air box back on and see if anything changes.

If things remain the same clean the IAC. If you take it off and shake it and nothing rattles, the part needs to be cleaned.

If nothing changes with that purchase rebuild kits for the coil packs ($30).

The only way the plugs would be bad is if the car has a bad air/fuel ratio and is running lean. I can't imagine it running rich. However, pulling and inspecting the plugs could be a good idea. The color and condition of the plugs may tell the story as to why the engine is not running.

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I'll try all 3 in that order. I wouldn't be surprised if it was the IAC, or even the coils at this rate. All I wanna do is get this thing running 100% so I can sell it lol


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Old 08-30-2016, 08:26 AM   #25
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I'll try all 3 in that order. I wouldn't be surprised if it was the IAC, or even the coils at this rate. All I wanna do is get this thing running 100% so I can sell it lol


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I'll give you a dollar. Lol

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Old 08-30-2016, 08:32 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Revvv View Post
Put the stock air box back on and see if anything changes.

If things remain the same clean the IAC. If you take it off and shake it and nothing rattles, the part needs to be cleaned.

If nothing changes with that purchase rebuild kits for the coil packs ($30).

The only way the plugs would be bad is if the car has a bad air/fuel ratio and is running lean. I can't imagine it running rich. However, pulling and inspecting the plugs could be a good idea. The color and condition of the plugs may tell the story as to why the engine is not running.

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

I'll try all 3 in that order. I wouldn't be surprised if it was the IAC, or even the coils at this rate. All I wanna do is get this thing running 100% so I can sell it lol


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Old 08-30-2016, 08:58 AM   #27
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I'll give you a dollar. Lol

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I see your dollar and raise you to "tree fiddy"


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Old 08-30-2016, 10:30 AM   #28
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I see your dollar and raise you to "tree fiddy"


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You can't bid on your own car. That just screws up the whole process.

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Old 08-30-2016, 05:27 PM   #29
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Even if it doesn't throw a code? If so, I'm willing to clean/replace it the first chance I can get my hands on the car again.


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Yes even without a code just clean it real good

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Old 08-30-2016, 05:45 PM   #30
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Yes even without a code just clean it real good

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Stop helping Jeno, I'm trying to buy his car for a dollar.



...and yes, Jeno is correct.

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Old 08-30-2016, 06:03 PM   #31
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Stop helping Jeno, I'm trying to buy his car for a dollar.



...and yes, Jeno is correct.

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My bad Lmao

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Old 08-30-2016, 06:04 PM   #32
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My bad Lmao

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I will give him five dollars for a running car. Lol

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Old 08-30-2016, 06:07 PM   #33
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I will give him five dollars for a running car. Lol

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That it 10 $ running or not

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Old 08-30-2016, 06:09 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeno View Post
That it 10 $ running or not

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Oh crap, $10.50 is my final offer.

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Old 09-01-2016, 07:33 AM   #35
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Glendora
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Revvv View Post
Oh crap, $10.50 is my final offer.

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

Hahaha...funny.

UPDATE: My friend took a like and said it's looking like a crank sensor starting to fail. I'm willing to try that, considering it's less than $30 from the store lol. Hopefully this is the fix.


"Jig"
2014 Ford Focus ST (ST3, Tuxedo Black Metallic)
1997 Ford Mustang GT (Rio Red)
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"Jig"
2014 Ford Focus ST (ST3, Tuxedo Black Metallic)
1997 Ford Mustang GT (Rio Red) (RMR #7832)

2003 Ford Mustang GT Centennial Edition (Black) (SOLD)
2004 Ford Mustang GT (Redfire) (SOLD)
1985 Chevrolet C10 Custom Deluxe (Red) (SOLD)
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