TR3650 Trans Fluid 02 Roush 360R - Mustang Evolution

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Old 09-08-2016, 11:02 PM   #1
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TR3650 Trans Fluid 02 Roush 360R

Well, please don't flame me for this. I've tried to search and Google this but I find a million different answers and I want to hear directly from the knowledgable people here. I'm wrapping up my clutch/flywheel replacement now and I'm not sure what fluid to put in the transmission. I don't know much about this subject to be honest. What is the best and longest lasting fluid to put inside the transmission? Should I follow manufacture suggestion? This is on a 02 Roush 360R with with a short throw from Roush. (If that matters at all). Thank you I'm advance!

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Old 09-09-2016, 12:09 AM   #2
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According to my knowledge, a TR3650 is the same no matter what it is in. On 2004 Ford did place stronger shift forks in the trans, but it is still the same.

Rule #1, no Royal Purple.

You will hear everything from GM syncromesh to Penzoil syncromesh.

I replaced my trans fluid with the Dextrol Mercon that Ford originally placed in the transmission. Just standard Dextron III.
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Old 09-09-2016, 09:35 AM   #3
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I think that's what I will do. Just go with what was originally in there to be safe. Thank you for the help!

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Old 09-09-2016, 09:36 AM   #4
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Now the question is, how much of it do I add? I've heard everything from 2.5 to 3.5 quarts. Lol

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Old 09-09-2016, 09:59 AM   #5
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My data is showing 4 quarts.


Pick your poison.
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Old 09-09-2016, 11:10 AM   #6
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I run 3 and 3/4 quarts of trans fluid. That puts me right around the 3.8 quart number everyone talks about.

I don't think you would have an issue with 4 quarts. That is my own opinion though.
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Old 09-09-2016, 11:35 AM   #7
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Okay. Thanks guys! I'll give it a shot.

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Old 09-09-2016, 12:40 PM   #8
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The new suggested capacity for the TR-3650's is 3L or ~3.17qts. Usually, you fill manual tranny's until the fluid spills out a little where your filling. In this case, they say it should be about 3/4" below the fill hole when it's considered full. They also recommend Dex 3, like Revvv stated, but it's kinda hard to find in certain areas. They also recommended Mobil 1 synthetic ATF with the update as well and that's what I use. It's easy to find and works better than that other crap people on here keep recommending lol. It NEVER said use GM syncromesh to Penzoil syncromesh that I have ever seen, so I wouldn't use it. I tried it based on the peeps here and I thought it sucked lol.
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Old 09-09-2016, 02:14 PM   #9
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That's great information. Thank you very much. What do you think about Valvoline ATF?will that work as well as the Mobil 1 and Dex 3? I haven't been able to find Dex 3 yet.

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Old 09-09-2016, 05:07 PM   #10
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If the only thing you can find is Valvoline I would give it a shot.
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Old 09-09-2016, 05:28 PM   #11
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Mobil 1 synthetic ATF is what the owners manual specifies, and it is available at practically every auto parts store.
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Old 09-11-2016, 12:24 AM   #12
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I went ahead and used Valvoline. I've had good luck with their products in the past so hopefully it will be fine. If not then I will need to look at draining it and going with Mobil 1. Right now the car is just about back together. I will definitely report on how it is after the install. I'm hoping it will drive well still.

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Old 09-11-2016, 12:25 AM   #13
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Looking forward to a good report.
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Old 09-11-2016, 12:29 AM   #14
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I do have a quick question, is it pretty important to stick to the "500 mile break in" or is that just to cover the manufacturer? I have a lot of people telling me not to worry about it but I'm just not sure.

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Old 09-11-2016, 12:32 AM   #15
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Unless I am using parts exclusively for racing I normally like to take it easy on new parts for a short period of time. This allows everything to wear and mesh together for a longer life.
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Old 09-11-2016, 12:35 AM   #16
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Yes, you want to wait the miles suggested by the clutch manufacturer. Do as much city driving as possible and don't get on it hard. I stayed under 3k rpm on mine for about 400 miles and under 4k rpm for another 250 miles before I got on mine. Doing what the manufacturer says is a good idea IMO and it didn't take me long to get those miles lol.
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Old 09-11-2016, 12:37 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Revvv View Post
Unless I am using parts exclusively for racing I normally like to take it easy on new parts for a short period of time. This allows everything to wear and mesh together for a longer life.


Sorry haha didn't see your post Revvv. I agree.
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Old 09-11-2016, 12:38 AM   #18
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Sorry haha didn't see your post Revvv. I agree.
You said it better than I did.
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Old 09-11-2016, 10:04 PM   #19
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Well, I got the clutch and flywheel in. It seems to drive pretty well. But when I'm not moving and the clutch isn't engaged I can hear a high pitched squeaking sound. When the clutch is engaged the sound goes away. There is also a vibration particularly in 4th gear it seems. Is this normal?

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Old 09-11-2016, 10:22 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joshy View Post
Well, I got the clutch and flywheel in. It seems to drive pretty well. But when I'm not moving and the clutch isn't engaged I can hear a high pitched squeaking sound. When the clutch is engaged the sound goes away. There is also a vibration particularly in 4th gear it seems. Is this normal?

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Not normal at all.

When you say "engaged", is that a pressed clutch pedal, or released?

Did you grease the throw out bearing on the shaft, and at the fork contact points?
What you just described sounds to me like a bad throw out bearing. It could be a bad pilot bearing if you did not replace that.

As for vibrating in 4th; the transmission should feel the same in all gears.
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Old 09-11-2016, 10:46 PM   #21
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If your car still has the factory clutch cable quadrant, try firmly pulling back on the clutch pedal to release the clutch cable. Then slowly push the pedal to the floor, and then slowly release the pedal. If the clutch quadrant is still working properly, that procedure will adjust the preload on the clutch.

As for the vibration, it could be that the drive shaft is installed in a different position than it was before the clutch job. You can try removing it from the transmission and clocking it 180 degrees to see if that helps eliminate the vibration.
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Old 09-12-2016, 12:17 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by straybullitt View Post
If your car still has the factory clutch cable quadrant, try firmly pulling back on the clutch pedal to release the clutch cable. Then slowly push the pedal to the floor, and then slowly release the pedal. If the clutch quadrant is still working properly, that procedure will adjust the preload on the clutch.

As for the vibration, it could be that the drive shaft is installed in a different position than it was before the clutch job. You can try removing it from the transmission and clocking it 180 degrees to see if that helps eliminate the vibration.
I agree with rotating the drive shaft. I will never really understand how a balanced part becomes unbalanced 180° out, but it happens.
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Old 09-12-2016, 01:05 AM   #23
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I replaced both the pilot and the tob. And yes I used grease on the shaft. I'm not sure about the clutch contact points. Damn. This is bad news. It took me about 3 months to get this done...

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---------- Post added at 12:05 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:05 AM ----------

Also, I mean when the pedal is not pressed in

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Old 09-12-2016, 03:40 PM   #24
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I also used a Ford Racing TOB

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Old 09-12-2016, 03:42 PM   #25
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I bet it's the drive shaft. Sorry, for some reason I didn't see that post. I actually marked it but I wasn't the one to put it back in. I'll try that. I have already adjusted the preload on the clutch. Thanks guys for the help! I'll report back.

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Old 09-12-2016, 03:45 PM   #26
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Quote:
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I replaced both the pilot and the tob. And yes I used grease on the shaft. I'm not sure about the clutch contact points. Damn. This is bad news. It took me about 3 months to get this done...

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---------- Post added at 12:05 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:05 AM ----------

Also, I mean when the pedal is not pressed in

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My transmission whines and cries when the pedal is released.

Hopefully you have an easy solution, Nd the driveshaft rotation does the trick.
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