Yesterday I went to start my car and it acted as if it was out of gas. I tried turning it over again and got the same response. On the third try the car fired up and ran like it should. I moved it to the end of my 1/4 mile long driveway to cut grass.
When I got back in the car the same exact thing happened. Once I got it back to the house I decided to run a check on any codes (there was no service engine light). I had a P0340, which I think is a crank position sensor.
I decided to drive the car and see how it ran. It runs and drives fine. The starting issue remained.
I stopped at my usual Circle K gas station and uploaded the stock tune back onto the car and fired it up with a struggle. Then I uploaded the Bama V2 Race Tune. That was a disaster that I have yet to try again. The theft light became a strobe and I had a check engine light with the P0340 code back. I then put the Performance Tune back that I have had on the car since day one of me owning it.
I decided to top the car with fuel and come home. The car turned over and popped, almost as if it wanted to backfire. Then it started normally. I had no more problems until this evening.
I did notice the stadard P1000 code (the normal code you find when the computer is reset). I have driven the car 200 miles since yesterday. That should have been deleted.
Now the car will spin over, spit, and do nothing. After 4 or 5 tries the car runs great as far as I can tell, with no code.
I have read that I could have alternator issues, a cam sensor issue, spark plug or fuel issues, etc. This is my daily driver and only transportation. I need a few ideas on what to check, how to check it, and what to replace if need be.
I am confused, irritated, and not sure where to go from here. Add angry to the list.
I am hoping it isn't a timing issue. The previous owner had the entire timing assembly replaced about a year before I bought the car. I cannot remember why.
The theory is, the alternator may be charging fine, but if there is a bad diode it may be causing an electrical interference that causes the computer to misread the information from the cam sensor. That will cause the hard starting condition.
After a bit of messaging with Keeney I am going to try replacing the cam position sensor before replacing the alternator. The sensor is a much cheaper repair if it works.
I just had time to take a look under the car. I think I located the sensor on the front, passenger side of the block, under the tensioner pulley. It appears I have a leak somewhere. I believe it is the power steering.
The sensor was coated with old, cakes on fluid residue. I am cleaning everything off now while I look for any cracks or breaks in the sensor and wires.
I cannot help but wonder whether or not the sensor has the ability to be affected by an oil leak. I'm not sure how though, this part is soaked by water every time the engine is cleaned, or when it rains.
One more note before waiting for any additional answers. If I tap the gas while idling I get an immediate response. While the engine is deceling it seems to occassionally want to pause at 1000 rpm before droping to 650.
So I have a question. How did a P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor code erroneously morph into a Crankshaft Position Sensor code in this thread?
It makes it extremely difficult to make any sense of what in the hell is going on here.
Did the car originally show a P0340 code, or not???
I keep wanting to lean towards a bad alternator. I have a low, unwanted noise in the stereo if I listen close. I am having trouble diagnosing the problem. I honestly can't afford to begin throwing parts at the car.
Could be either. The sensor is cheapest out of the two. My suggestion would be to test the Alternator at a store and if it test out fine then go to the sensor. On rockauto.com the sensors range between $8-$20. If you can't wait for shipping you might be paying closer to $40 at a part store, but it beats the $110+ that the alternator is going to cost. Would hate to pay for the alternator and then that not be the problem.
You are going to need a multimeter to properly diagnose this problem. If you don't have one, perhaps PP does, and you can figure this out at his house?
I'm about to attempt to pick my heathens up from school. Hopefully the car runs with no problems. At the moment it seems to only have a problem starting.
No worries, it is the crank sensor code. I was irritated when the car began not wanting to start. I had a full weekend, and no time for a broken car.
I have checked and cleaned all of the contacts and wires for the crank and can sensors. Both can screw with the timing on the car.
The problem is not constant. It will start fine one out of 10 drives. Those other 9 starts begin with a cough from the engine, and then nothing. A few days ago all I had to do was bump the starter and the engine came to life.
Until I can get my hands on a multimeter or throw a few parts at the car I am stuck without an answer. Then again, the car could stop running altogether. That is more along my line of luck lately.
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